Dahe Daily Yu video reporter Yu Xin
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New youth, new vitality, new career.
With the development of society, a large number of new occupations with diversified content and novel models are emerging, and a large number of young people are emerging in new occupations and composing the song of youth in the new era.
They are a group of young practitioners who have emerged with new technologies and new consumption, with unlimited innovation vitality and radiance; they often identify a category that has not been paid attention to by most people, continue to shine, and illuminate the hope of the industry with actions......
The career direction is different, but the passion for the dream is the most moving.
Chasing the wind and catching the moon do not stay, and the end of the flat is the spring mountain. On the eve of this year's May Day and May Fourth Youth Day, Dahe Daily Yu Video launched a special plan of "New Youth, New Career" to present you with a group of dream-chasing young people in the new era.
Core Tips
From "letting foreigners challenge Hanfu" to the ancient city of Luoyang being crowded with "noble concubines", in recent years, Hanfu, as a representative of ancient Chinese traditional clothing culture, has achieved a "circle-breaking" popularity among young people. More and more young people are wearing Hanfu and taking to the streets to immerse themselves in a journey of "traveling".
Cheng Yi, a "post-85" Hanfu designer who is engaged in Hanfu design and has received more than 4,000 orders a year, said: "I don't want Hanfu to just appear in museums for people to visit, I hope it returns to the essence of clothes, and must be worn on the body, which is its most basic function." What I want to do is to present and carry forward the costumes of our Han nation. ”
From an engineering man to a Hanfu designer, he "holds" cultural relics to "make up" knowledge
On April 26th, the Dahe Daily Yu video reporter met Cheng Yi, the designer of the Suyi Shiyin Hanfu Workshop, who was immersed in the design of Hanfu styles and colors, and it was difficult for people to think that he was an engineering man engaged in the communications industry before.
Image: Cheng Yi designing Hanfu patterns
"At that time, I was in charge of the franchise module in the communication industry, and I basically needed to run back and forth between various franchise customers, and I felt very tired and had no time for myself. Cheng Yi told the Dahe Daily Yu video reporter that he really came into contact with Hanfu in 2017, when he was on vacation, he accidentally saw a group of people wearing Hanfu participating in the event, and he was fascinated by Hanfu for the first time, and began to collect various information to understand Hanfu after coming back.
In Cheng Yi's impression, in 2017, the entire Hanfu industry was basically still in its infancy, and Hanfu was a very small concept for everyone.
But with the deepening of understanding, some professional knowledge of the clothing industry made it difficult for Cheng Yi.
Image: Models wearing Hanfu designed by Cheng Yi's team at the event
"I learned a course called engineering drawing in college very well, and engineering drawing has some correlation with clothing pattern making, so I can understand a basic clothing pattern. After breaking the first obstacle, Cheng Yi began to calm down and study the tailoring and clothing shape of Hanfu.
If you want to do Hanfu customization, you must understand the clothing shape of Hanfu, and the first solution that Cheng Yi thought of was to study cultural relics, "As long as it is a museum related to Hanfu, I will go to see it, and we will sort out its warp and weft, sort out its veins, see where its sewing seams are, and what the stride width looks like, and determine a basic version of Hanfu through these methods." ”
Then it is to determine the wearing effect of Hanfu, after making clothes according to the basic version, Cheng Yi will corroborate each other through cultural relics such as murals or terracotta figurines, to see if the finished clothes are worn on the body is the same effect, and only after all the versions are determined, will he start to do custom business.
With 4000+ orders per year, he "weaves" and creates a "dream factory" for Hanfu lovers
According to the "2022-2023 Research Report on the Status and Consumer Behavior Data of China's Hanfu Industry" released by iiMedia Consulting, from 2015 to 2021, the scale of China's Hanfu market has surged from 190 million yuan to 10.16 billion yuan, and in just a few years, the Hanfu market has skyrocketed 50 times, which can be described as an exponential surge.
In the face of the huge market, it is even more commendable to stick to the original intention.
"The finished product store is 'clothes picking', and we are here 'people picking clothes'. Cheng Yi told the Dahe Daily Yu video reporter that customers who come to us to customize Hanfu, no matter how tall or fat, we can create a suitable clothing for them.
According to Cheng Yi, the production process of a Hanfu needs to go through the stages of design→ material selection→ pattern making → (embroidery/printing→), stitching→ modification→ sample forming→ production process, → delivery. For example, the large-scale planting of cotton is after the Song Dynasty, so when making clothes in the Qin and Han dynasties, Wei and Jin, and Tang Dynasty clothes should be selected close to the fabric of hemp or mulberry silk, and the Song Dynasty and later will be more optional.
Image: Cheng Yi sewing Hanfu
Pattern-making needs to find the basis of cultural relics, museums, archaeological records and documents are all sources, and some versions are clearly reflected in the literature, such as "and the service of the Twenty-four History", "Sancai Drawing", "Tiangong Kaiwu" and so on.
Depending on the material of the fabric, the ready-to-wear time also varies greatly, generally ranging from 15 days to three months. The longest may take more than half a year, such as python robes and other makeup fabrics, drawing, pattern-making, revision, and finalization is a long process.
It is precisely because of Cheng Yi's meticulous and excellence-seeking attitude that his studio has won the trust of many Hanfu lovers. The team of more than 10 people can receive 150-200 orders per month, and more than 4,000 orders will be received throughout 2023.
In the long-term study of Hanfu design, Cheng Yi found more fun and a sense of value, "When I studied the cultural relics, I thought that I could restore an ancient traditional costume, so that our young people can wear the clothes of our ancients, to experience and reproduce the aesthetics of our ancients, which is particularly meaningful." ”
Today, Cheng Yi's plain clothes Shiyin Hanfu workshop is becoming a "dream factory" for many Hanfu colleagues.
Hanfu reappeared on the streets of Zhengzhou and led the trend
On November 22, 2003, an electric power worker named Wang Letian walked on the streets of Zhengzhou wearing Hanfu, which attracted a lot of attention.
Image: Media reported that Wang Letian walked on the streets of Zhengzhou wearing Hanfu
It is understood that the Hanfu worn by Wang Letian is composed of two parts: a thin velvet deep coat and a cocoon silk coat. Although this hanfu is simple and even a little ill-fitting, it was sewn by Wang Letian and his friends, and these like-minded men even set up a studio, they checked the literature, looked for regulations, and even picked up the sewing needle clumsily, and some people pricked their fingers because of it, but they enjoyed it.
Referring to Wang Letian, Cheng Yi sighed: "After his incident was reported by the media, more people began to know and understand Hanfu. In the trend of promoting Hanfu, Zhengzhou still has a leading position in China. ”
Since last year, Luoyang has also had the title of "City of Hanfu" on the Internet. In many scenic spots and streets in Luoyang, now wearing Hanfu "little sister" and "princess" has become a landscape, Dahe Daily Yu video reporter learned that under the background of "Hanfu fever", only in the past two years, Luoyang Hanfu practitioners have reached more than 10,000 people, with an average annual income of more than 100,000 yuan.
There is a lot more support for Hanfu.
Dahe Daily Yu video reporter noticed that on October 31, 2020, the first day of the 8th Xitang Hanfu Culture Week, the Hanfu standard (patent) formulated by Beijing Chinese Territory Culture Media Co., Ltd., China Textile Engineering Society, China National Textile Industry Federation, and Zhejiang Xitang Tourism and Culture Development Co., Ltd. - "Hanfu Classification" and "Hanfu" two group standards were officially released. From the perspective of the industry, the Hanfu standard compilation team not only standardizes the standards of Hanfu clothing, which can be used as a reference for the industry, but also provides correct, formal and standardized cultural content for the public to know, understand and experience Hanfu.
Picture: Cheng Yi's team participated in the 4th China International Consumer Products Expo
From April 13th to 18th, Cheng Yi led a team to participate in the 4th China International Consumer Goods Expo held in Hainan. Referring to the experience of participating in the exhibition, Cheng Yi said frankly: "In fact, our scale and volume are not very suitable for the standards of the exhibition, but the government is willing to put us on such a platform to promote our culture, although there are very few Hanfu in the whole exhibition, but at least it is a signal, the relevant departments are willing to use our Hanfu as a window to show the charm of our culture to the world, the beauty of our Chinese clothes." ”
During the interview, Cheng Yi mentioned "cultural self-confidence" many times, "wearing Hanfu on the street is a form of protection of traditional culture, and I hope that more people can understand Chinese traditional clothing, wear traditional clothing, and become an expression of Chinese cultural self-confidence." ”
Collecting
If you have a similar "New Youth, New Career" around you, you are welcome to search for the WeChat public account of "Dahe Daily" on WeChat, and leave a message in the background to share their careers and stories.
Source: Dahe Daily Yu Video Editor: Sun Kaijie