<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > Chang Wei who did not call over the blessing, and he invented the sauce plum meat</h1>
【Jin Chinese cuisine】
Sauce plum meat
Sauce plum meat is the representative dish of Jinshangzhuang cuisine, and it is also the third steaming in the Jin-style three steamings such as tamales and small crispy meats. And this dish is related to Chang Wei, the founding father of the Jin shang Chang family. This Chang Wei is naturally not the Chang Wei who "I saw Chang Wei calling Laifu" in the movie "Nine Pin Sesame Officer", and he was obsessed with qi Qin's clan, and also killed all 13 members of the Qi family plus a dog. Instead, it was Chang Wei, a wealthy Merchant from Shanxi in the Qing Dynasty who came from the Chang family of Che Ru.
The so-called Che ru Chang family was born in Che Ru Village, Dongyang Town, Yuci District, Jinzhong City, Shanxi, from Qianlong, Jiaqing, Daoguang, Xianfeng, Tongzhi, Guangxu, Xuantong 7 generations, inherited the Shanxi merchant Chang family for more than 150 years. Chang Zhonglin, the ancestor of the Chang clan, moved to Yuci from Hui'an Village in Taigu County, Shanxi during the Hongzhi period of the Ming Dynasty, and originally relied on herding sheep for large local households. After several generations of unremitting efforts, the family road has gradually become richer. Chang began to do business from the 6th generation, to the 8th generation of Chang Wei, and developed into one of the largest business groups in modern Jin shang.
Chang Wei was born in the 20th year of the Qing Kangxi Dynasty (1681), and at the age of 20 he went on foot to Zhangjiakou in Hebei Province to do business. He adhered to the tradition of thrift and diligence that Jin Shang had always been, and although he carried Sichuan capital, he insisted on not using it, and only relied on the income obtained for people along the way to solve the problem of food and accommodation. After about 10 years of hard work, he finally developed from a "merchant" who did small business with a jacket on his back to a "sitting merchant" with his own small storefront. Since only jin production "big cloth" was operated at that time, the façade was named "Changbu Shop".
A few years later, all three of his sons came to Zhangjiakou with their father. The elder Wanwang landed in the local area to farm; the elder Wan Xuan and the old San Wanda became the father's right and left hands, and the father and son worked together, after more than 10 years of struggle, chang's career in Zhangjiakou developed rapidly. By the time Chang Wei returned to his hometown, the Chang family had set up two brands in Zhangjiakou, "Dade Chang" and "Dade Yu", which were handed over to Wan Xuan and Wanda respectively, and the Chang brothers developed into two major business groups in Zhangjiakou area.
After Chang Wanyuan's death, Chang Wanda inherited his father and brother to start a business of commerce. In the middle of the 18th century, the demand for tea produced in southern China in Russia and Mongolia was increasing day by day. Although during this period, China and Russia signed the Sino-Russian Treaty of Nebuchu and the Treaty of Kyakhta, which clearly designated Kyakhta as the place of trade between the two countries.
During the Qianlong period, the Sino-Russian Treaty of Kyakhta had been signed for more than 10 years, and then the trade volume had been in the tens of thousands of rubles without progress. At this time, Chang Wanda, who had a keen eye and a bold eye, saw the huge business opportunities contained in it, so he raised all the funds that could be raised, and changed the name of "Dadeyu" operated by Zhangjiakou to a tea house, taking advantage of all the convenience created by the Qing government for trade merchants on the border with Russia, grasping the market situation, studying Russian demand, and deciding to focus on the Rongye trade, concurrently engaged in silk fabrics, porcelain, handicrafts, etc.
The "Wanli Tea Road" he opened up invested heavily in buying tea in Wuyi Mountain in Fujian Province, and after picking and processing, he traveled more than 7,000 miles through land, water and camel transport to Kyakhta for trading. Later, it gradually penetrated into the territory of Russia and even the European countries, with a total distance of more than 13,000 miles.
In fact, Marx had two articles on China, one of which was "Kyakhta Trade." In this article, Marx made a lot of statistics. According to the data I have read, there are more than 20 Chinese merchants trading in Kyakhta, two of whom are non-Shanxi nationals, as if they are one in Beijing and one in Xinjiang. All that remains are Shanxi, that is, the Kyakhta trade is monopolized by the Shanxi people.
From the perspective of Kyakhta trade, the earliest study on this issue was Mr. Qu Shaomiao. He collected a very precious historical material in the unpublished manuscript of "Shanxi Foreign Trade", that is, after General Granton traveled around the world, the Chinese people asked him what was enough to praise everyone? To everyone's credit, he said, Jews were well known in the world for doing business, but the small Chinese merchants with their hair braided hair forced the Jews to give up a large part of the market. The small Chinese merchants referred to here are mainly Shanxi merchants. Because Kyakhta trade is mainly monopolized by Shanxi merchants.
The Kyakhta trade market, monopolized by Shanxi merchants, accounted for 49% of Russia's foreign trade and 19% of China's export trade.
The sauce plum meat mentioned here is a Shanxi dish steamed with curd sauce and pork belly. This dish was invented by Chang Wei, who we talked about above. In his later years, after Chang Wei handed over the business to his sons, he concentrated on teaching his grandson to read. When eating with his grandchildren, Chang Wei found that these children seemed to think that the pork belly was too greasy and often picked it out and did not eat it.
Once someone brought him a curd sauce, Chang Weiling moved, dipped the white meat in the curd sauce to eat, and it became salty and delicious. So he asked the cooks at home to steam it with curd sauce every time they made pork belly, and over time, this dish spread in jinzhong and became a classic dish in Shanxi.
However, as for where the "plum" in the middle of this dish comes from, there is no explanation, but there is a dish in Shanxi Datong that is similar to this dish, but there is also a plum character in the middle of the dish called "apricot plum meat" steamed with dried apricots, and it is also unknown. It can only be speculated that it may be because the dish is so beautiful.
The method of sauce plum meat is to first put the pork belly with skin into the pan in cold water, add green onion and ginger slices and cook for 30 minutes, then take out and slice them cold and set aside. Next, mix the 3 pieces of curd sauce with salt, a little more sugar, and peppercorns with peppercorns, star anise, cinnamon and tangerine peel, and then mix the slices of pork belly slices with curd milk one by one, and then put the slices of skin into the bowl in turn, seal the plastic wrap and steam for 40 to 50 minutes.
The word 裢, which is often eaten by Beijingers, is named because it resembles a rectangular bag used by people in ancient times to hold money. In Shanxi, it is also known as "carrying horse". At present, the "carrying horse" enshrined in the Changjia Ancestral Hall in Shanxi has been enshrined for more than a hundred years, and the owner of this pig is Chang Wei, the 8th ancestor of the Chang clan, who is known as the "originating ancestor" of the Chang clan.
Over-oiled meat
Taiyuan one of the top 10 famous to eat the oily meat, looks like a general garlic fungus fried meat slices, but integrated into the unique use of shanxi cuisine with vinegar method, plus the juice of the appropriate amount of transparent, not thin and not thick, a little clear oil such as such a dish requirements, and so that this dish in the late 1950s in Shanxi after the emergence, quickly in the continuous improvement and spread, has become the chief representative of Shanxi cuisine now.
Jinzhong cuisine, led by Taiyuan, is gradually formed by the private cuisine of Taigu County in Jinzhong City, which includes the Cao Family Courtyard and the Kong Xiangxi Residence, the ancient city of Pingyao, which was rated as a World Cultural Heritage by UNESCO in 1997, and Pingyao County, which is also the birthplace of Jin merchants, and Qi County, which is famous for the Qiao family compound in the movie "The Big Red Lantern Hangs High".
Oiled meat was a government dish that had previously spread to the people, but it was not until February 1957 that the Taiyuan Municipal Catering Company organized an expert review and rated the famous chef Wu Wangku's oiled meat as one of the top ten famous foods in Taiyuan, and this dish originated from Pingding County, Yangquan City, Pingding City, in the eastern part of Shanxi Province, gradually appeared in taiyuan and other major restaurants in Shanxi cities.
In the ensuing 60s and 70s, in the 1980s of reform and opening up after the turmoil, because Zhang Dianhua, Bai Baoshan, Fang Mingsuo and other famous chefs in Shanxi actively participated in the city,000, the province and the country's cooking competitions, and won gold medals, they let the name of the dish of oil and meat go out of Shanxi. Since then, as long as it is a restaurant with a Shanxi cuisine sign, it is necessary to have the dish of oil and meat.
Generally speaking, the part of the oiled meat is the tenderloin of the pig, but in fact, it is best to choose the "Yuanbao Meat", which is located on the inside of the pig's hind legs, inside the pork's buttocks above the tendon meat, the meat is delicate and soft, and a pig can only obtain 2 small pieces of about 20 centimeters long and weigh about 0.6 kg. Because this part is hemispherical and resembles dumplings, it is named Yuanbao meat, while Taiwan is called "mouse meat" because of its shape similar to a mouse.
There are many different versions of the oiled meat derived from now, although there are many choices of side dishes, but basically there are cabbage, onions and soybean sprouts and peppers, but the most authentic is still winter shoots and fresh wild black fungus as the basic ingredients, but now most of them replace winter shoot slices with garlic.
We all know that Shanxi cuisine is good at using vinegar, and when using vinegar to make Shanxi cuisine, it can be divided into "dark vinegar", "ring vinegar" and "point vinegar". The so-called dark vinegar refers to the vinegar that is cooked before or at the beginning of cooking, in order to take its sour taste and increase the crispness of the ingredients. The so-called ringing vinegar is because it is the sound that occurs when a hot pot is added during the cooking process, and its purpose is to take its fragrance and eliminate the fishy smell of the ingredients. If vinegar is added before cooking, it is called vinegar, and cooking vinegar at this time increases the flavor of the dish.
The first time I cooked oily meat at home, I made a special dish from Datong City, the second largest city in Shanxi, "Three Jins Over Oil Meat Rice Bowl". This dish features garlic in cucumber slices and is served with fried rice stir-fried with old soy sauce. This dish is made with salt, chicken essence, pepper and wine to marinate sliced tenderloin, and then paste it with whole eggs and flour, although some chefs only use egg yolks to take its golden appearance when it is cooked.
And because this dish is named after "over-oiled", the most important thing for this dish is to control the heat and oil. The oil should be more wide, and the oil temperature is 70% hot is better, the oil temperature is too high, the meat slice is burned endogenously, the oil temperature is too low to defosh, and the oil temperature of 70% can make the meat slice achieve a soft and smooth taste and golden translucent color.
After the meat is oiled, first fry the white rice with old soy sauce to set aside, and then formally operate. Stir-fry the green onion slices first, then add minced garlic, wine, old vinegar (the first dark vinegar), fungus, cucumber slices, dark soy sauce, salt, chicken powder, stir-fry well, add the oiled slices of meat, and then hook, and this mustard as long as the meat hooked with a thin layer, not too much, just to brighten. At this time, add a second vinegar, that is, a little vinegar, and then pour some sesame oil or green onion oil to increase its brightness again, to achieve the effect of bright oil and brightening, and then put on top of the old soy sauce fried rice and finish.
The southeastern city of Shanxi Province, bordering Hebei to the east and Henan to the south, is unique for its "rice over-oiled meat" filled with soup. This rice-oiled dish full of local flavor differs from ordinary over-oiled meat in that tomatoes are added in addition to the soup. In addition, it is also a major feature to divide the minced garlic twice, and take its caramel flavor and its garlic flavor respectively. In the cooking process, the front is the same as the general method of oiled meat, except that after cooking the oiled meat slices, it is necessary to add water to boil and boil, and then order vinegar after mincing garlic twice.
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The similarities and differences between fried pork, stir-fried tenderloin, soft fried tenderloin, charred tenderloin, sweet and sour tenderloin, boiled meat segments, and pot wrapped meat
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The differences and similarities of fried pork, stir-fried tenderloin, soft fried tenderloin, charred tenderloin, sweet and sour tenderloin, boiled meat segments, and pot-wrapped meat are basically dishes with pork tenderloin as the main ingredients, and the appearance is similar after becoming a dish, but it has its own characteristics and taste regardless of taste or taste.
These kinds of tenderloin dishes are divided into tenderloin slices and tenderloin segments, and some of them must be greased first, some must be re-fried first, and some meats must be sizing, and some are hanging paste.
The raw materials used in "hanging paste" (the sound of paste should be pronounced "household" instead of "hu") and "sizing" are basically the same, and their function is also to "dress" the ingredients, if it is from the thickness of the paste and the paste, the preparation method, the use and characteristics, the hanging paste can be said to be a thick coat for the ingredients, and the sizing is to cover the ingredients with a thin coat. This is because the paste uses more flour or starch, so the paste is thick and thick; while the starch used for sizing is less, so the pulp is relatively thin and thin.
In the way of modulation, the hanging paste is to first add flour, starch, water, egg liquid and other raw materials for making paste, add a container and stir evenly into a paste, and then put the main ingredients into the paste and hang evenly; sizing is to directly add the ingredients and various pulping raw materials together and mix well. The reason why the method of modulation is different is because the hanging paste is mainly suitable for cooking methods such as frying, boiling, cooking, frying, pasting, pulling silk, hanging cream and other cooking methods, and the dishes made by the sizing are suitable for those who are suitable for cooking with methods such as sliding, simmering, stir-frying, etc., and the dishes have the characteristics of smoothness and tenderness and softness.
Among the several tenderloin dishes described here, the catch-fried tenderloin, catch-fried fish fillet, catch-fried prawns, and caught stir-fried waist flowers, which are one of the four major stir-fried dishes of the Qing Palace, which is called "catching and stir-frying" by Empress Dowager Cixi, is the most famous. The reason why it is called scratching and stir-frying, there is a saying that it needs to be fried quickly, so it comes out after a few final grabs, and there is also a saying that it is named because the ingredients are repeatedly grabbed in the starch, which is similar to the technique of scorching, biting down and scorching, while the inside is soft and tender.
In addition, in order to make the tender tenderness of the tenderloin, before hanging the paste, it is necessary to repeatedly grasp in the onion and ginger water, and constantly add water to the meat, which is also the origin of the name of catching and frying. (Regarding the onion and ginger water, The Chinese Lu cuisine master Ji Xiaofeng stressed that it is necessary to grasp 50 strokes of onion and ginger water: "Crush the peeled ginger [scraping the skin will remove most of the ginger spicy taste], beat the green onion, put it in the basin, add water, grasp at least 50 times with your hands, and grasp the water into a pale yellow, thick liquid to play a role in freshness and fishiness", Taste spring and autumn, p. 80.) ）
First, add salt, wine, green onion and ginger water, and soy sauce to the sliced tenderloin and scratch it continuously. After grabbing the stir-fried tenderloin, it is better to hang the paste instead of sizing, and it is better to use mung bean flour, which can make the taste of the dish more crisp, and the water is added in small amounts many times, and after the hand grabs the degree of diarrhea, a little oil should be added into the paste, and the crispness after the dish is increased.
After the meat slices are hung paste, when the oil is boiled to 60% of the oil temperature, the meat slices that are hung up are laid out one by one, and at the same time the fire is changed to a low heat, slowly fry the meat first, wait for the meat to stand up and float, the color becomes slightly yellow and can be fished out, and when the oil temperature rises to 70% of the meat, then re-fry it until it is crisp and crisp.
Cook the chopped green onion and ginger rice, cooking wine, green onion ginger water, one and a half spoonfuls of vinegar, one spoonful of soy sauce and about two spoonfuls of sugar, and finally add the white powder water and mix well to make the stir-fry sauce. When the formal operation, directly cook the prepared stir-fry sauce into the pot, directly fry, and when the juice is fried until the color becomes brighter, you can fry the fried tenderloin under the pan, drizzle with a little bright oil, turn it over evenly, and you can spoon it.
Compared with the sweet and sour tenderloin, the taste of the fried tenderloin belongs to the small sweet and sour mouth, which should be salty as the main taste, followed by the sour and sweet, the sour and sweet taste cannot overshadow the salty umami, and the sweet and sour tenderloin is a big sweet and sour mouth. In addition, from the perspective of the sauce, the sweet and sour tenderloin is a large juice, and the stir-fried tenderloin is about the tight juice wrapped ("holding the juice"), the juice can be wrapped in the tenderloin, and there will not be too much juice left in the plate after eating.
The boiled meat segment and pot bun meat are Northeastern dishes, which are discussed in the article "The Art of War of Northeast Cuisine". Among them, the meat section is the northeast cuisine that the Shandong people have evolved into the Guandong, and the scorched meat segment from the Yulu cuisine. This cooking method is similar to stir-frying, which is a cooking technique in which the cut ingredients are first matured in oil and other ways after marinating the ingredients and then pouring the juice on it and mixing it into a dish. The technique of scorching is also known as fried and crispy, which is to hang the cured meat first and then fry until it is crispy, and then the mixed sauce is added to the fried main ingredient and mixed evenly or directly poured on the raw materials to make a dish.
The difference between the braised meat segment and the sweet and sour tenderloin is that it is salty and sweet in taste, while the difference with the charred tenderloin is that the scorched tenderloin is a hanging paste, and the braised meat segment is sizing and frying, wearing different clothes with different thicknesses, and the thickness of the meat slices is also different. The slices of burnt tenderloin are thinner and the paste is thinner, and the meat segments are slightly thicker and the sizing is thicker, so it is more tender to eat while maintaining water after frying. Not only that, but the pulp on the meat section must be hard paste, that is, it is thick and not thin, and it is particularly dry to catch, thus forming a harder dough.
Pot bun meat is derived from the boiled meat segment, originally called pot fried meat, from the Qing Guangxu period in harbin Daotai prefecture Yin Du Xueying's chef Zheng Xingwen. Zheng Xingwen is a flag man, his father is a tea merchant, after he came to Beijing with his father when he was 6 years old, he ate a lot of delicious dishes with his father, so he had the heart to learn to cook. By the age of 14, he had a strong preference for food and cooking.
Zheng Xingwen once learned to cook official cuisine at the home of an official in Beijing, and after several years of hard study, Zheng Xingwen, who was a teacher, opened a restaurant called "Zhenweiju" on a street in Beijing in the 7th year of the Qing Dynasty (1881). In 1907, on the recommendation of a friend, Zheng Xingwen brought 14 highly skilled cooks into the Then Daotai Mansion as the head chef, specializing in cooking meals for the first Daotai Du Xueying. At that time, during the commercial boom period after the construction of the Middle East Railway, Daotai officials often had to deal with foreigners, and in order to entertain visiting foreign envoys, Zheng Xingwen had to change the taste of the welcome dishes frequently.
To this end, he specially went to the Eastern Qing Railway Hotel to learn the cooking method of Russian-style Western food, and changed the original salty and fresh taste of burnt tenderloin in northern China into a sweet and sour dish loved by foreigners. Diners were greatly appreciated, and this change made Harbin the origin of pot bun meat, Zheng Xingwen called it "pot pop meat", but because foreigners did not pronounce it standardly, it became "pot bun meat". Zheng Xingwen, who created the pot-wrapped meat, became famous for his dish and became the famous "Binjiang Dining Ancestor", and even his apprentice was invited into the imperial palace to become the imperial chef. Binjiang, on the other hand, refers to Harbin.
Another feature of pot bun meat is that the general dish pays attention to color, aroma, taste and type. And the pot bun meat also needs to add a "sound", that is, when chewing, it will make a sound similar to when eating popcorn, which is proof that the pot bun meat is crisp.
Pingyao beef
Pingyao Ancient City, located in Pingyao County, Jinzhong City, Shanxi Province, is not only a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage Site in 1997, but also the "Rishengchang" co-founded by Li Daquan, a native of Dapu Village in Pingyao County in the fourth year of Qing Daoguang (1824) and Lei Lutai, the treasurer of Xiaoyao Village, is the first ticket number in China, that is, a place to exchange silver bills and deposit money, just like the bank of ancient China.
The advent of ticket numbers put an end to the backward form of escorting cash. On the street of Pingyao Ancient City in Shanxi, the beef shop of three steps and one shop and five steps and one shop has become another scenery of the ancient city. In this ancient city built by Yin Jifu, an important minister of King Xuan of Zhou, to resist the invasion of the northern ethnic groups, and which has a history of nearly 2800 years, China's oldest, largest and most complete preservation, there is a three-step shop, five-step shop beef is also crowned with the name of Pingyao.
In the Qing Dynasty, Pingyao beef, which has been known as the Three Jins, has a rosy color, tender meat, uniform softness and hardness, soft and palatable taste, and its salty and moderate, mellow flavor and long aftertaste, which comes from its extensive process from killing cattle to curing to cooking.
In the first process of slaughtering, it is necessary to cut the two aortic blood vessels, let the cattle blood gush as soon as possible, and release the cow blood as soon as possible, one is not to let the cow blood penetrate into the body to maintain the color and tenderness, and the other is to make the cattle not too frightened and nervous before slaughtering, so as to prevent the muscle fibers from contracting and causing the taste to be tough.
This is followed by shaving the bones for meat. When deboning, the neural tissue skin of the cow must be connected with the muscle tissue, and the whole piece of meat must be removed according to the part, and the skin must not be injured, otherwise the tightness of the shape and meat quality of Pingyao beef will be destroyed. Then according to the size of the cattle, the deboned beef is divided into 16 to 20 pieces, divided into Dunze, Erdaodun, Sandwich Ribs, Bladder, Neck, Claw and other parts, and then evenly coated with table salt one by one, and will be layered into cylinders in the order of first thickness and then thinness.
The salt used to marinate Pingyao cattle is best produced after the temple on West Avenue in Pingyao, and the amount of salt used and the soaking time vary according to the season. Each 100 kilograms of meat is used 3 kilograms of salt in winter, 5 kilograms in summer, and 4 kilograms in spring and autumn. The soaking time is hot and short, cold is long, in general, winter is one month, spring and autumn are half a month, and summer is 5 to 7 days.
The next process of cooking is to take the beef that has reached the marinade period out of the tank and wash it with water, and then layer the meat into the pot according to the size, thickness and fire resistance after the water is boiled. Cook on high heat for 2 hours, then gradually turn off the heat and cook for 8 hours, then turn off the heat, then simmer for another 2 hours, for a total of 12 hours. In this way, the whole production process is completed, even the Pingyao beef that is not used in the general sauce beef, which is bound to be used, is completed. The reason why Pingyao beef is delicious, the high hardness alkaline groundwater under Pingyao City is considered to be the biggest key.
Most of the cattle used in Pingyao beef are from northern Shanxi or Inner Mongolia, and the cattle used to make Pingyao beef must be non-sick, non-disabled, non-calves, older than 4 years old, rectangular or barrel-shaped, and protruding and plump on both sides of the chest and tail root, and the body weight is higher than 300 kg to be selected. Such a standard is related to the legend of Pingyao beef that "leaves cattle under the knife".
It is said that in the 18th year of Qing Daoguang, the manager of the "Xingshenglei" beef shop in Pingyao County was Lei Jinning, and the business in the shop was very prosperous. One day, lei treasurer, who had been busy for more than half a year, took the time to return to his hometown of Pingyao Oil House Fort Village to greet his mother. Unexpectedly, when he slept until midnight, he actually dreamed that two women were kneeling on the ground and begging him to "save his mother under the knife."
After Lei Jinning woke up in a dream, he fell asleep again, and did not expect to have the same dream again. The next day, at dawn, the Lei treasurer told his mother about the dream. His mother thought for a moment and asked him, "Isn't the old cow that the guys are going to slaughter today a cow with two calves?" Lei Jinning nodded and replied, "What my mother reminds me is that this sick, crippled, pregnant, and calf cattle must not be slaughtered by choice, and this is the rule of our prosperity and thunder."
So the Lei treasurer hurried to his own shop in the city, only to see that the guys were about to slaughter the cattle. He shouted from afar, "Leave the cattle under the knife!" As a result, in the evening of the same day, the old cow did give birth to a pair of cute calves. The above is only the "Xiang Bi Jian: Jian Niu Oriented" point in the pingyao beef production process, and others also include the pure, quiet and stable "Tu Bi Jing: Knife Steady Tendon Connection"; "Pickle Must Foot: Cellar Pickled Foot"; "Halogen Bi Jing: Old Soup Boiled Meat"; and "Xiu Bi Zheng: Go Bad and Get Refined".
Pingyao bowl holder
Bowl holders are also made bowl balls, bowl crumbs, bowl holders or bowl convex, is a kind of pasta, the origin of its name, for its steaming after the step of de-molding out of the bowl, but although it is said to be a bowl, in fact, the container that makes the bowl holder is mostly a slightly thicker round dish. The bowl tray is mostly cold food, cut into small strips, and served with a cold mixture of Shanxi old vinegar, garlic water, soy sauce, white sesame seeds, chili oil and cucumber shreds. Only Pingyao has a hot stir-frying method, after frying chives minced chili powder, it is quickly stir-fried with shredded potatoes, bean sprouts, fat sausages and bowl holders and seasonings, and then add a handful of twist flowers broken into small pieces before leaving the pot.
The bowl tray in Pingyao was pioneered by Dong Xuan, a chef during the Guangxu dynasty of the Qing Dynasty, and now the operator of the famous local shop SanquTa Bowl is its fourth generation. The Dong family's bowl holder has a public secret book, which is to add the shallots after 4 or 5 days of drying, and then slowly fry the shallots until the minced shallots are black and fragrant.
Shanxi bowl drag divided into white noodles and soba noodles two kinds, white noodle bowls drag texture tendons and soba noodle bowls drag soft glutinous, and pay attention to toughness pingyao bowl holder is white noodle pie. The bowl holder is made into a batter instead of a dough, and then made into a batter and then seasoned with salt and finished chopped onion, and the salt is heavier, so that the steamed bowl holder tastes just right. The steamed bowl holders can be cut into various shapes, which can be made into moon circles, semi-circles, squares, diamonds, fans, strips, curls and cylinders.
Taiyuan mind
This strangely named Taiyuan-style snack and breakfast was originally created by Fu Shan, a famous literati and medical scientist in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties, who lived in seclusion in his hometown after the fall of the Ming Dynasty, and was originally called "Eight Treasures Soup", of which Eight Treasures refers to astragalus, galangal, mutton, simmered noodles, lotus root, long yam, sake lees, pickled leeks, which is a soup paste type of tonic diet.
Later, a Hui surnamed Duo moved from Gansu to Taiyuan, opened a restaurant in Nancang Lane in Taiyuan, operating a mutton shop selling miscellaneous cuts, at first the business was deserted, when Fu Shan opened a clinic in its nearby Nanxiao Wall, saw that his business was not good, he passed on the recipe of "Eight Treasures Soup" to him, and gave the restaurant the name of "Qinghe Yuan".
The strange name of the dish "Mind" is derived from the name of the shop, because later, whenever Fu Shan treated people who were weak and needed to be replenished, he told them to "eat Qing He Yuan's Mind", and "Eight Treasures Soup" was renamed "Mind".
In fact, Fu Shan taught the recipe of the Eight Treasures Soup and its preparation method to the lamb restaurant surnamed Duo, and then named it "Mind", and specially wrote a line of small characters on the top of the three big characters of "Qingheyuan" in the store, which together are "Mind Miscellaneous Cutting Qingheyuan". And because in the past, Taiyuan people got up at dawn to eat their heads, called "catching their minds", because the sky was dark and needed to hang lanterns for lighting, so the shops that operated the brains would hang a paper lantern as a sign, and this custom has been passed down to this day. When you drink the mind, you will eat it with a "hat box" or "roasted wheat". The hat box is a short cylindrical, hollow, dough cake made by kneading two empty shells with unfermented flour and pretzels and salt, which are baked together. When drinking the head, I will break the hat box into small pieces and soak it in the head to eat. Or grilled with lamb.
【Jinbei cuisine】
Steamed pork
Dingxiang steamed pork is made by mixing pork strips made with shredded shallots, ginger, salt, peppercorns, and five-spice powder, steamed potatoes (meat to potato ratio is 1:1) and about 5 spoons of flour and water. In fact, as early as the 13th year of the Republic of China, when the Indian poet Tagore visited Beijing at the invitation of Liang Qichao and Cai Yuanpei, Tagore originally planned to transfer from Beijing to Dalian, and then take a boat to Japan, but under the introduction of Xu Zhimo, he changed his itinerary to Taiyuan, Shanxi, to visit the rural construction of Taiyuan. Yan Xishan also used these five helmets and four plates to entertain Tagore.
The noodles are chestnut
The raw material is also known as the noodle nest, and its raw material is also known as naked oats or naked oats, mainly in central and western Inner Mongolia, north-central Shanxi Province, northern Shaanxi Province and western Hebei Province, ground into flour and eaten as a staple food. The word "栲栳" in 莜面栳 originally referred to a circular vessel made of wicker or bamboo grates.
From the wheat to the noodles, it must go through the process of "three births and three ripening". The first of these three births and three ripening refers to the raw grains that are threshed after the quinoa is harvested. The first ripening is that as long as the yarrow is ground into powder, the wheat must be fried first. And the fried wheat grains are ground into noodles, and they become raw again, which is "two lives". And to make the flour in and into the noodles can not be used in the basket of cold water, but to use boiling water, is the second ripe.
The good noodles are steamed while hot to form "pressed dumplings" or "fish with noodles", and as mentioned here, after kneading a small ball of noodles, making a thin piece of noodles, and then wrapping them around the fingers into a cylinder, standing upright on the gauze of the steamer, forming a lot of small cylinders that look like a small cylinder next to each other, and look like a honeycomb. And the noodle products made in this way, whether they are birds, fish or nests, are the third life. After steaming it, the noodles can be officially eaten, and this is the third cook.
Since the amount of protein and fat contained in the wheat is the crown of the five grains, the nutritional content of the noodles is more than 7 times that of other flours. Therefore, in the Datong area, there is a proverb that "40 miles of noodles, 30 miles of cake, 20 miles of soba noodles are hungry and broken", which refers to the fact that after eating the noodles, you can walk 40 miles, while you can only walk 20 miles after eating soba noodles.
【Jindongnan cuisine】
Gaoping Ten Bowls and Jincheng Top Ten Bowls
The city of Gaoping in Shanxi Province originally belonged to the State of Jin during the Spring and Autumn Period, and was called Changping during the Warring States Period, which belonged to the State of Zhao. At the Battle of Changping in 262 BC, the Qin general Bai Qi defeated the Zhao army here and killed 200,000 Zhao pawns (400,000). Therefore, here is also known as the "Ten Bowls of Gaoping Water Seat", with one of the four famous generals of the Warring States, Zhao General Lian Po (the other three are Bai Qi, Wang Qi, and Li Mu) led a thousand people dressed in white to return to changping to set up the spirit hall to worship the dead Zhao Guo soldiers, but the feast of the hundred tables of sacrifice fell due to heavy rain, so that the food in the bowls on the table was soaked in soup, and later generations made water mats to mourn the legend of the dead.
One of the ten dishes tastes one by one, and the main ingredients except for the three desserts of soft rice, lentil soup, and tianhe egg are all pork. In the past, when rural people invited guests to make ten bowls, they would often kill a whole pig. And the various parts of the pork will be used in the top ten bowls. In addition to desserts, the cooking methods of other dishes are actually the same as those, which are originally made into semi-finished products by frying, steaming, cooking, etc., and then made into broth.
The first dish in these ten bowls, "Water White Meat", is to mix the sliced pork lean meat with egg white, salt, pepper powder, and taibai powder and put it in boiling water, and the meat slices will become white after boiling in the water. "Walnut meat" is a dish in which the meat is cut into chunks, added eggs, taibai powder, peppercorns, salt, flour, etc., and then fried in oil until golden brown. The soup is smooth and delicious, and the soup is delicious, such as "squid soup" and the common "crispy meat".
Sweet "Tianhe Egg" of the heaven and sweet harmony, and for harmony and wealth, with sweet and harmonious meaning of Tianhe egg The main ingredients are sweet potatoes and flour, the method is similar to the dumpling skin, the steamed sweet potato sweet potato is mashed into a puree, kneaded with flour into a ball and rolled into strips, then cut into an oval shape, and then fried into a golden brown under the oil pan color can be out of the pot.
"Soft rice" is also one of the three sweets, the ingredients are soft rice, red dates, peanut rice, orange cake, rose sauce, white sugar, add water to the pot on the pot to put the soft rice into the pot, stir in one direction, wait for the soft rice to stick, add red dates, peanut rice, orange cake, rose sauce, white sugar back and forth and stir well, then put it in the basin and steam for an hour.
The soft, delicious, sweet and delicious "lentil soup", the "water ski balls" with a clear and transparent soup and a rounded appearance of the balls, and the "chicken powder skin mustard soup" with a strong mustard flavor are chicken breast cut into coarse strips, marinated with ginger and garlic paste, and then add powder, marinated chicken, fungus, soy sauce, vinegar, salt to the bone broth, and then add spinach, garlic sprouts and ginger minced, and finally pour mustard into the pot.
When Gaoping people make ten bowls, they use almost every part of the pig's body, and the pig intestine is also an ingredient for making the ten bowls. Generally, the last bowl of the ten bowls is finished with "intestine soup", the pig casing is washed and cooked, then shredded, put into boiling water and cooked, adding broth, pepper, green vegetables, egg skin, green onion and out of the pot.
The current city of Gaoping is a county-level city under the jurisdiction of the prefecture-level city of Jincheng, and Jincheng also has its own "Ten Bowls of Jincheng". Jincheng's top ten bowls of head dish is "wood ear shellfish", a button dish made of mung bean flour, egg white, lard, and fungus, "roasted green onion" is a button dish made of scallions and shredded meat with the process of steaming, frying, frying, and steaming, "Mao tou Ball" is a steamed dish made of lamb, vermicelli and taibai powder, which looks like the hair of a hairy boy who has just grown, hence the name.
Over-oiled meat is the Jincheng "rice over-oiled meat" introduced above, "small crispy meat" is a bowl dish made of pork belly with eggs and taibai powder after frying, simmering and cooking. "Paste meat" is made of pork belly fried, stewed and steamed, "sweet and sour balls" is a fresh fried meatball made of pureed meat with eggs and taibai powder, put into a sweet and sour soup and put into a bowl, the outside is tender, sweet and sour.
"Oil hemp" is a bowl dish fried with flour, vinegar and edible alkali after fermentation, "swan egg" is a sweet dish made of glutinous rice, red sugar, roses, chrysanthemum cakes and nuts steamed and fried, and "sweet rice" is a sugar beet made from glutinous rice, sweet potatoes, peanut kernels, pears, roses, chrysanthemums, dates, etc. steamed.
Yangcheng liver burning
Yangcheng County, another county under the jurisdiction of Jincheng City, is famous for its dish of roasted liver. Yangcheng roast liver tastes like a fried cake. The so-called "roasted liver" is made by using fresh pork liver, chopping and mixing with garlic in a ratio of 5:2, adding an appropriate amount of minced green onion and ginger, salt, pepper powder, egg, sweet noodle sauce, corn flour and stirring it well, putting it in a frying pan with lard and then frying it before steaming. Then, before eating, cut the roasted liver into slices, fry it in a frying pan until golden brown, then fish it out and put it on a plate, sprinkle with shredded green onions, and eat it with Shanxi old vinegar.
Lingchuan party ginseng stewed chicken
The party ginseng in the Lingchuan party ginseng stewed chicken is used as a medicinal diet, which is flat and sweet, and has the effect of tonifying the qi. In Shanxi, it is the most popular party ginseng produced in the southeast and Xinzhou regions. Shanxi ginseng mainly contains three major types: among them, the heaviest weight of up to 400 grams or so, known as the king of party ginseng, the ginseng strip is slender, thick and pure, the skin is yellow and red, if the ginseng strip is broken horizontally, you can see the star dots of "tiger head phoenix tail chrysanthemum heart" of the Pingshun Lu party ginseng; The Tai Dang ginseng of Wutai Mountain in Xinzhou area; and the purple ginseng that is named because it is produced in Zituan Mountain.
Although Li Shizhen of the Ming Dynasty included dang ginseng in the "Compendium of Materia Medica" in the entry of ginseng. But in fact, in terms of botanical classification, ginseng belongs to the platycodon family, and ginseng is a five-plus family, although from the perspective of medical efficacy, the two functions are similar, but the medicinal value of ginseng is greater than that of ginseng.
However, lingchuan party ginseng in the Lingchuan area of Jincheng, Shanxi Is called "five-flower core" because of its cross-sectional "five-flower shape", in addition to being oily and free of dregs, the sugar content and medicinal value are 1 to 1.5 times higher than that of general party ginseng. Therefore, since ancient times, the local folk have said that "a five-flower core, as strong as ten pounds of ginseng". Therefore, the local chef will use Lingchuan dang ginseng to accompany the local chicken stew.
Astragalus simmered lamb
Astragalus in astragalus simmered lamb is the same as dang ginseng ("芪" pronounced "its"), which is generally used for medicinal diet. Astragalus is produced in North China and the Central Plains, and Shanxi is one of the important sources. Among them, the astragalus is known as the "Astragalus King", with a well-proportioned and straight appearance, a slender skin, a yellowish color, large pinkness and small hollowness. Local chefs also use astragalus abundant in Shanxi to accompany the lamb stew.
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > [vinegar and Shanxi].</h1>
After wu zimu of the Southern Song Dynasty described the customs, suburban temples, characters, and techniques of Lin'an in the late Southern Song Dynasty according to the changes of the four seasons, wu Zimu of the Southern Song Dynasty mentioned 8 things such as "chai, rice, oil, salt, wine, sauce, vinegar, tea" and other 8 things, although wine was eliminated in the Yuan Dynasty and became the 7 things that opened the door, it has become the standard for the Chinese people to fight for their daily lives.
Among the four famous vinegars in China, Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar, which uses glutinous rice as raw material, was originally a "Hundred Flowers Wine" brewed in 1840 by Zhu Zhaohuai, who was born in Jiangsu Province, who was born in the iron charcoal shop of Jiangsu Sultan. Later, after this wine was adopted by the Qing magistrates as a "tribute" to the palace, the liquor industry flourished. In 1850, Zhu's Yi brand was "Zhu HengShun Bad Lim Fang", which was fermented with chaff and made balsamic vinegar with lees, which was the first vinegar factory in Zhenjiang and became the true origin of today's Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar.
Baoning vinegar produced in Langzhong, Sichuan ("Lang" pronounced "Lang") is the only medicinal vinegar in China, using bran, wheat, barley and glutinous rice as raw materials, and then using Chinese medicinal materials such as sand kernels, malt, yuan hawthorn, duhuo, cinnamon, angelica, wumei, almonds and other Chinese medicinal materials, and brewed from the winter water of the Jialing River. Boryeong vinegar is not as sour as Shanxi old Chen vinegar, nor as sweet as Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar, but has a unique sour-sweet fusion.
The brewing method of Boryeong vinegar originated from the craftsmanship of brewing old aged vinegar from a refugee from Shanxi, Soyiting. After he arrived in Sichuan, he was later invited by a rich man to brew vinegar, because the vinegar he brewed was very popular in the local area, because Langzhong was named "Baoning Vinegar" in the Ming and Qing Dynasties for The rule of Boryeong Fuzhi Yongchun County is located in the southwest of Fujian Province, the upper reaches of The East Stream of Jinjiang, is a county under the jurisdiction of Quanzhou City, and its Yongchun old vinegar made of glutinous rice, red yeast, sesame seeds, and white sugar is also called Fujian Red Yeast Vinegar, which is brownish and black in color, not astringent and mellow.
Shanxi Lao Chen Vinegar, the first of the four famous vinegars in China, is the first of the four famous vinegars, in addition to the history of shanxi vinegar making vinegar for about 3,000 years. In addition, in the early years of Qing Shunzhi (1644), after the smoked vinegar, fruit vinegar, and rice vinegar in Shanxi became famous with the rapid development of Jin merchants, Wang Laifu of Shanxi Jiexiu founded the "Meiheju" vinegar factory in QingxuCheng, adding the smoked vinegar process on the basis of white vinegar, and inventing the process of "winter fishing ice, summer fusing". Because the brewing method of "winter fishing ice and summer sunning" requires a long period of fermentation, Shanxi vinegar has the name of "Shanxi Old Aged Vinegar" because it is of better quality because of its longer aging time.
It is also known as "old acyl" because Shanxi people are good at brewing and love to eat vinegar. Vinegar was called acyl in ancient times, and the person who brewed vinegar was called "acid man", and the liquor that made vinegar was called "old acid". Therefore, eating vinegar is not called eating vinegar but "eating sugar". Because Shanxi people are jealous of vinegar, and because "acyl" is homophonous with the word "West" in Shanxi, people from other provinces call Shanxi people "Shanxi old acid".
In the past, Shanxi could be said to be "every family has a vinegar tank, and everyone should be a vinegar maker". Until now, there are more than 100 vinegar factories in Shanxi Province, in addition to the famous Qingxu old vinegar, there are also Lingchuan Yuquan old vinegar, Huguan Xinzhai old vinegar, Yuci Nanbao old vinegar. In addition to the old vinegar, there are also different types of vinegar such as famous special vinegar, double vinegar, aged vinegar, special vinegar, Jin vinegar, flavor vinegar, smoked vinegar and so on.