#精品长文创作季#
Pork stewed vermicelli, sauce with large bones, small barbecue...... Most people's impression of the taste of the Northeast comes from TV and short videos, compared with the fine attention to the ingredients and materials used in the southern cuisine, the Northeast cuisine seems rough and heavy, which is affected by the "stomach is greater than the taste" of people's food demand in the low temperature climate of the long winter in the Northeast, and it is also related to the bold character of the Northeast people who drink wine in bowls and eat meat in large pieces.
However, we can't be sure that the people of the Northeast have no pursuit of food, in this rich black land, people have long been inspired by the gifts of nature and cook unique Northeast cuisine. The most important Spring Festival Chinese New Year's Eve every year is an important food moment for northeasterners to put down their work, gather together to show their cooking skills, and reward their taste buds.
Fried, stewed, roasted, no meat
In the Northeast for the New Year, meat is an indispensable heavyweight ingredient on the Chinese New Year's Eve table. Deep-frying at high temperatures turns it into a "golden delicacy", which is a characteristic method of cooking meat in Northeast China. Pot-wrapped meat is the gorgeous transformation of meat ingredients, and it is also the most famous meat dish in Northeast cuisine.
△ The picture is from the documentary "The Taste of the Year", the same below
Delicious pot-wrapped meat, you have to be able to choose ingredients, and pork loin is the most suitable. Cut the meat into slices about 1 cm thick with an oblique knife and hang the wet starch on top of the slices, which is especially important and is the key to making the meat crispy on the outside and tender on the inside.
One is fried, the second is fried, and the fried meat slices are then stir-fried in the pot, and the juice is poured out of the pot, and garnished with three shreds (shredded carrots, shredded green onions, shredded coriander).
The general dishes pay attention to color, aroma, taste and type, and the pot wrapped meat also listens to the "sound". The crispy crust rattles like popcorn, and the meat slices inside are neither hard nor hard, mixed with sauce, and each piece satisfies the appetite of diners. Crispy on the outside, sweet and sour, and tender in meat, pot-wrapped meat has become the deepest dietary memory of Northeast people, and they will remember this taste of hometown wherever they go.
Winters in Harbin are long and cold. At the end of the year, the temperature has dropped to minus twenty or thirty degrees, and what people miss most after a hard day is to eat a stew with soup and water. Among all the cuisines in Northeast China, stew has become the dish with the highest appearance rate with the most down-to-earth attitude, and it will never be absent from the Chinese New Year's Eve dinner table of Northeast people.
Pig killing dish is one of the characteristic stews in Northeast China. In rural areas, there is a custom of killing pigs for the New Year and feasting neighbors near the Spring Festival, which is called "killing pigs for the New Year". Delicious pig-killing dishes are inseparable from the choice of pork, and domestic stupid pigs have the purest natural meat aroma. Fat and lean to a certain golden ratio, every part of the pig's body is a good dish.
Sauerkraut stewed white meat is also a classic in pig-killing dishes. Pour fresh pork bones and pork belly into a boiling pot, and only enlarge green onions and star anise in the soup to remove the fishy smell. The bone broth gradually turns milky white, and the large pieces of pork belly absorb all kinds of nutrients in the broth, becoming crystal clear and elastic. Next is the turn of the best partner of pork, sauerkraut, which has been pickled since the beginning of autumn and has a good flavor in the previous year, cut into strips, poured into a pot to stew and mix, and eat a bite of oil to relieve greasy. Relatives and friends sat around a table to eat a warm pig-killing dish, and what they ate was affection and reunion.
Stew is not only very popular in the rural areas of Northeast China, but also city people will try their best to find a place in the city. This is the origin of iron pot stew. Chicken, goose and fish ribs, flying in the sky, swimming in the water, and running on the ground, can gather a pot under the skillful hands of the Northeast people, and the delicious smell of the house is particularly attractive.
There is an old saying in the Northeast: "When my uncle enters the door, the chicken breaks his soul", which refers to the chicken stewed with mushrooms. Fresh domestic stupid chicken has to be stir-fried in the pot first, and it is easier to rot and glutinous when stewed. The fine ratio of home-style seasonings such as bay leaves, star anise, cinnamon, and Sichuan pepper brings out the fresh and original flavor of the stupid chicken.
Hazel mushrooms with thin stems and thin umbrellas, smooth and firm potato vermicelli, sweet and juicy corn on the cob, shredded sauerkraut for greasy relief, and tender black fungus are also perfect ingredients for iron pot stew. Firewood is indispensable, and it is an indispensable wok.
If you like, you can also put a circle of cornmeal tortillas on the side of the pot, which is golden and crispy, and the fragrance is a must.
Outside the house, an iron pot is steaming, and diners gather around the pot to enjoy the food, and laughter rises with the heat.
The Demoli fish stew from the Songhuajiang town is a unique way to eat fresh fish from the Northeast, and the diners passing by all stop for it and taste it.
The freshly killed carp is fresh and fat, quickly scaled and then put into the hot oil pan and stir-fried, simply add the green onion and ginger seasoning, the umami of the fish and the aroma of the green onion and ginger are combined, with the secret sauce, to produce a different kind of gastronomic effect.
Tender brine tofu and translucent vermicelli are classic side dishes for fish stew, and the timing of their use is also very particular. Simmering slowly over low heat, the viscous soup, the strong vermicelli, the flavorful tofu cubes, the melt-in-your-mouth fish, and a bowl of fragrant Northeast rice are a heart-warming "gluttonous meal".
As the saying goes, if you give a pot to the people of the Northeast, you can stew the whole world. Stew is every Northeast child from a snack to a big delicacy, in the cold season is more popular, it can quickly replenish the body lost calories, to quench hunger, is the magic weapon to overcome the long winter. On the occasion of the New Year, a large family of relatives and friends gathers in front of an iron pot to eat hot stew, which is the taste of the New Year.
Steamed, boiled, seared, everything
The fertile and fertile black soil of the Northeast Plain is a natural feeding field for wheat, corn, rice, sorghum and soybeans, and the three eastern provinces are also known as the "granaries of the world". As a reward to nature, people make various patterns of staple foods, a bag of wheat, a bag of buds, in the blink of an eye, into dumplings, gluten, vermicelli, sticky bean buns, leek boxes, spring cakes, pancakes...... Northeasterners are far ahead of the curve in their creativity with regard to staple foods.
In the Northeast, dumplings are the spokesperson of the year. Rolling dough, adjusting fillings, and making dumplings are the traditional programs of every family during the Chinese New Year. A plate of steaming dumplings with thin skin and thick filling symbolizes family and reunion, and is also full of the hope of the Northeast people for a year.
Sanxian dumplings are the favorite of Northeast people. Shandong people who broke into the eastern part of the country brought seafood dumplings to the Northeast, and after localized taste improvement, they became today's three fresh dumplings. Take the fluffy pork in front of the pork and chop the stuffing by hand, and mix the scallops, shrimp, shrimp and seaweed into the seasoning, and the most critical step is to use the sea rice water soaked in the shrimp and the filling. The aroma of the meat and the umami of the seafood are constantly stirred and fused, and after a while, the room is filled with fresh, fragrant, and sweet flavors.
Roll out a dumpling wrapper and spread it in the palm of your hand, and wrap a spoonful (kuǎi) of three fresh fillings into it, pinch it with two thumbs, and the delicacy will be in the pot in this rolling, packing, and pinching.
The boiled three fresh dumplings are white and fat, spread all over the plate like ingots, eat the whole one at a time, the dough is flexible, the soup is abundant, the fresh fragrance is overflowing, and then drink a mouthful of thick dumpling soup, the deliciousness is all in the mouth, and the richness of the combination of meat and seafood has been left between the lips and teeth for a long time.
There is also a kind of pasta, for Northeast people, it is the New Year, this is the sticky bean bun, the "year" bean bun. Yagou Town, Acheng District, Harbin, is rich in corn and is also a sticky bean bag town, which contracts the New Year's rations of the Northeast people.
At the end of every year, no matter how busy they are, the villagers of Yagou Town will gather together to make a sticky bean bun. Only when I wrapped the sticky bean buns by myself, did the New Year have a taste. The small sticky bean bun is not only wealth, but also a blessing, wrapped in their good wishes for the year.
"The first dumpling, the first two sides, and the third box are all over the ground", the Northeast people's love for leek boxes is self-evident. The baked leek box, with golden and crispy skin and tender filling, is an important pastry staple food on the New Year's table. The hot, freshly out of the leek box brought relatives together, and the delicious leeks also brought the breath of spring.
The best leek box is Mom's. Noodles, rolling skins, chopping stuffing, and the children who went home for the New Year, finally had time to make a leek box with their mother, chatting while laying down their hands, and listening to their mother's recollections: "As soon as the New Year arrives, I will brand some boxes, and everyone will be lively together, you eat, I will grab it, it is quite interesting." You eat well, and I am happy. "It's a rare time for parent-child interaction, warm and pleasant.
The box on the pan makes a sizzling sound under the frying of hot oil at high temperatures. When the carbohydrates are gradually caramelized, the dough of the leek box will show a unique taste of charred on the outside and tender on the inside; when the leeks ooze juice in the process of heating, and the fried eggs have a romantic encounter, the spicy of the leeks is gone, replaced by incomparable deliciousness, seeping into the inner skin of the box, taking a bite, fragrant and crispy, full of mother's strong love.
Frozen, wrapped, mixed, sweet in the heart
In the cold winter, the outdoor in the Northeast has become a natural refrigerator, and frozen fruits have become a way for Northeast people to keep fruits fresh and enjoy fruits in winter. Approaching the Spring Festival, the Northeast people who buy New Year's goods must carry two or three bags in their hands.
The dark peel and hard fruit are rotten pears at first glance, but they are soaked in water for a while, but they are sweet and delicious when they are gnawed. After completely thawing, the whole pear is softly packed, open a small sip, you can suck the juice dry, drink one in a heating room of twenty or thirty degrees, and immediately feel comfortable, moisturizing and quenching thirst.
Frozen pears, frozen persimmons, frozen strawberries, in the eyes of Northeast people, everything can be frozen. But when you wrap the jelly fruit in a layer of syrup, it becomes another sweet and sour sweet, even the sugar gourd that the child next door is crying for.
Red hawthorn, black ripe blueberries, a big plump strawberry, washed, pitted, skewered with bamboo skewers, lightly turned with boiled hot sugar, wrapped in a thin layer of syrup, a string of fresh rock sugar gourds is ready. When refrigerated outside, the sugar will become more crispy and tasty.
There is a saying in the Northeast, "Everything can be sugar gourd". In addition to traditional hawthorn and fruits, there are also a variety of alternative sugar gourds: persimmons, rice cakes, large fritters, chicken feet...... Even the sauce garlic can be wrapped into a "sugar gourd". In the hands of the Northeast people, the sugar gourd has played a new trick, and this unique humorous temperament and the black land that gave birth to the two-person turn and the sketch king shine together.
In the days full of New Year's flavor, no matter how many delicacies of the mountains and seas are placed on the table of the Northeast people, a plate of "sweet" food must be indispensable. Pulling sweet potatoes is the taste of this plate wrapped in lips and teeth, sweet in the heart.
A seemingly simple sweet potato not only evokes the taste of "year" in the memory of Northeast people, but also a food weapon to enliven the atmosphere. The shredded sweet potatoes that have just come out of the pot can only pull out the longest strings within tens of seconds of being served on the table. Diners stretched out their chopsticks for the first time, and the lively and lively competition, who pulled out the longest sugar silk means whose life is sweeter in the new year.
But the Northeast interpretation of "wrapping" is not limited to this, they also invented the pinnacle of the masterpiece - fried sorbet, just listening to this name, is enough to make people excited. It seems that the straightforward Northeast people do not succumb to the cold winter, and vow to collide with the enthusiasm that rushes out of their hearts, which is not only the peak duel between hot and cold, but also the magical embrace of the two.
"It's hot on the outside, it's cold on the inside, and when you bite into it, it's crispy, and when you eat it, it suddenly becomes soft, which is quite a different feeling. "Fried sorbet is not only a favorite of locals, but also makes tourists from other places curious about this special Northeast New Year's flavor, and after tasting it, they are full of praise.
To make a good fried sorbet, it is no less than a big test. The essence is to wrap the batter of the sorbet, mix it with eggs, flour and starch in a certain proportion, add water and stir until the batter is shaken when the chopsticks stir, and then it is ready. The sorbet fried out of the pan is golden on the surface, crispy on the outside and cold on the inside, and has an excellent taste, which is loved by all ages.
Sweet, in the eyes of Northeast people, is not only a taste, but also an attitude to life, which can heal the soul, wrap the reunion, and closely accompany the family affection of missing. Sweet days are a happy life, and only then can people be full of hope and yearning for the future.