This year's spring girl's footsteps seem to be a little impatient, and it is not yet out of the first month. But the weather has become warmer, the sun is shining, and there is even a feeling of laziness in the eyes of the people. The sky is also from the common gray fog in winter, become blue and refreshing, our small island backed by Yanshan Mountain, bordering Bohai Bay, has always been beautiful mountains and rivers, the scenery is pleasant. As the old saying goes, "Rely on the mountains to eat the mountains, rely on the water to draft water". The residents of the small island have always had the habit of eating seasonal seafood. Only the fish and shrimp in the sea grow to the most fertile season to eat, called "a bite of fresh".
Every year at the end of February in the lunar calendar, in the middle of March, the sea after a winter recuperation, the first delicacy for the island residents is the white color, small size, delicious taste of snow shrimp. For spreading eggs, fried spring leeks are the most appropriate. What really makes the island residents look forward to is the fish that comes out of the water with the snow shrimp front and back feet - the cold water board.
The scientific name of the cold water plate is the high-eyed flounder, which is a type of flounder. Flounder northerners call it partial mouth, Jiangsu and Zhejiang people are used to call it flounder. Cantonese people call it the earth fish. It is widely distributed in the offshore seabed of China's major seas. Only swim to shallow waters to produce seeds during this season. It took more than ten days, which made people remember the fattest moment of its roe. Because the sea is still cold this season, the high-eyed flounder grows close to the mouth, and the body is flat, and the inhabitants of the island figuratively call it a cold water board. The two eyes of the cold water plate are on the right side of the head, which is exactly the opposite of the eyes with the partial mouth on the left side, so there is a "left to right cold" point. According to the scientific name, it is also called "left catfish right flounder". The meat is tender and fat, white and delicate. Some people say that the two kinds of fish, partial mouth and cold water plate, because the eyes are on one side, take care of each other, one female and one male, just like husband and wife, usually also always in and out of pairs. Therefore, there is also a good story of "".
The most common practice of this fish in our small island, whether it is a hotel, a restaurant or a family, is different from the oil, and then stewed in the pot. The condiments are almost the same, but there is one layer of fried process missing. The reason is that in the most fertile ten days of the cold water board, the body has bred the most fish roe, the fish skin at the belly of the fish is very thin, and no matter how much oil is patted flour, the starch is very easy to burst the fish skin, and the fish roe flows out. Not only is the shape of the whole fish unsightly, but the delicious taste of fat fish roe is also destroyed.
In the past, when I used to make stewed cold-water plate fish, I choked the pot seasonings together, the soup was wide and flavorful, and the cold-water plate fish scraped off the scales and cut off the internal organs. Rinse, add to the soup and simmer over high heat. But soon it was found that the skin of the fish was thin, and in the constantly bubbling fish soup, it had already been tossed and turned, quietly shrinking together, and exposing the unripe and floppy fish roe to the enthusiastic boiling soup. The fish roe that first saw the world was soon frightened by the boiling hot soup with salt and sugar, and could only lie honestly at the bottom of the pot and did not dare to move again. It is precisely because of the caution of the roe that the smell of burnt paste can soon be heard coming out of the fish soup, making a pot of fresh fish delicious and white.
After trying to make it a few times, even if the fire is small and boiled for a long time, the roe hidden in the deepest part of the fish's belly is still not fully ripe, although the skin of the fish is complete, it is still very unappetizing to eat the fish roe that still has a fishy taste. If you add less water, the fish soup is viscous and the roe is not yet cooked thoroughly, add more soup, boil for a long time, and the fish is easy to lose its tender flavor.
After thinking about it for a long time, I occasionally got a law. Before the fish is put into the pot, remove the roe from the body. Although the skin of the fish is slightly damaged by heat shrinkage during the stewing process, the roe can be placed on the broken place and simmered with the fish, which can not only ensure that it matures together, but also perfectly seals the tender taste of the fish. Quite proud.
But a few years ago, when I met a diner who came up with a new way of eating, I remember it very deeply and regarded it as a classic. In fact, in the short period of more than ten days of spawning, the cold-water plate fish is actually the fattest and most expensive, and the fish meat is secondary. Therefore, even if the price is expensive, it is also a large number of eaters, flocking to it, and it is regarded as a delicious dish by the old gourmets. Because of the cold winter, the offshore waters have just thawed, and the fish that come out of the water are even more precious. More so, during spawning, the fattening of fish roe is also the same every day. Therefore, the small islanders who are good at seafood have changed their ways to create recipes.
At that time, I opened a small restaurant with friends for a few years. Due to the small size of the shop, the variety of dishes on the menu is not very much, so some frequent guests sometimes bring their own ingredients, remember that on the day of the festival, the rain was light, and there were not many customers in the shop. The three customers who braved the rain came in, not acquainted, and brought their own cold water board with more than three pounds. The requirement is to eat two fish, stew the fish at home, and make sour and spicy soup with fish roe. I was still quite surprised at the time, I hadn't done this, and when I think about it, it's not difficult, it's just a novel approach.
So scrape the fish to remove the internal organs, take the fish roe to clean up, onion ginger garlic, peppercorns, stew pot, soy sauce, oyster sauce, balsamic vinegar, cooking wine can not be less, salt, sugar on the bottom taste, press the fish into the soup. And began to make sour and spicy soup, to cut the pork shredded, water tofu shredded, winter shoot shredded, black fungus shredded, because to make soup, each is not much, although the method is not complicated, but the same can not be sloppy. Blanch the several ingredients of the sour and spicy soup first. Fill in the roe before the sour and spicy soup is finally served. For a good base, the amount of pepper should be particularly large. When you swallow it down, the top of the throat eye is enough to taste! Balsamic vinegar should be added later, and twice. Twice used to supplement the taste, the amount does not have to be large, drink a bite to be sour and then spicy, complement each other, sour and spicy who does not press whose taste. Before throwing a beaten egg out of the pot, the soup should also put chopped coriander, sesame oil and green onion.
Everything was ready, I tasted the taste, but I was amazed, the sour and spicy soup had just been beaten, like the marinade of tofu brain, soft and smooth, sour and spicy and delicious. Wrapped in fragrant bamboo shoot shreds and smooth and tender tofu shreds, crisp wood ear silk, fish roe with a strong sense of grit is clearly grained like millet, and when it slides over the soft and smooth tongue, it has the fresh taste of the sea, and it is so comfortable to drink with fresh flavor! The fishy taste of the roe is completely neutralized by one sour and one spicy, because it is directly soaked in the soup, opened twice, and the fish is fully mature. The taste did not add to the mess of the sour and spicy soup at all, but on the contrary, it was the icing on the cake, and the sour and spicy soup directly soared a notch. What a wonderful match, perfect! One bite into the soul, still unforgettable.
Cold water plate fish because of the short market time, thin skin and easy to crack, so the price is not cheap, in the shortage of supply, there are also traders to take other fish to impersonate, size, shape are like, just the mouth to the left, the fish flesh is thin, there is no fat roe, there are two fish like pig bone marrow white, called yellow skin fish. I have also bought stew, the meat quality is not firewood, eating it also has umami taste, but the lack of roe that bite of delicious, yellow skin fish is only used to make up the number, talk is better than nothing.
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