laitimes

In ancient times, the "dumpling" art grand view, food blogger Su Dongpo loved to eat bayberry dumplings

author:Purple Cow News

During the Dragon Boat Festival, eating zongzi is an indispensable custom of the Chinese people. With the improvement of living standards, zongzi filling is also more abundant, no longer limited to traditional dates, bean paste and so on. This year, the Zongzi circle is a bit rolled, and it is known as the "Zongzi" art grand view. In the interview, young cultural scholar Hou Yinguo told reporters that the ancients were also very good at playing, the Jin Dynasty added traditional Chinese medicine to zongzi, which can cure children's bedwetting, and "food blogger" Su Dongpo also ate rice dumplings stuffed with bayberry.

In ancient times, the "dumpling" art grand view, food blogger Su Dongpo loved to eat bayberry dumplings

Rice dumplings in the shape of Nanjing Lishui crab

Rice dumplings open blind box,

It can be called the "Zong" art grand view

According to the Tianyancha App, there are more than 1,400 zongzi-related patent application information in the mainland, including nearly 600 invention patents and more than 400 design patents and utility model patents. The reporter noted that in these patent applications, zongzi fillings can be described as various, including ginger zongzi, garlic zongzi, cream zongzi, seafood zongzi, lychee guiyuan zongzi, etc., in addition to a variety of valuable ingredients, such as swan meat zongzi, ejiao zongzi, ginseng zongzi, etc., and even some applicants will be Chinese herbal medicine wrapped into zongzi, applying for a "health zongzi containing Chinese herbal formula" patent.

In addition to the filling, many patent applicants also work the appearance and packaging of Zongzi, such as applying for patents such as Dragon-shaped Appearance Zongzi, Zongzi Without Zongzi Leaf Wrapping, Zongzi Advanced Environmental Protection Gift Box, Recycled Zongzi Packaging Box and so on. With the progress of the times, the production equipment of zongzi is also more scientific and technological. For example, the patent application includes "automated Rice Dumpling Production Line", "New Rice Dumpling Sterilization System", "Metal Detection Instrument in Rice Dumpling Production", "Rice Dumpling Quantity Counting Device Based on Infrared Technology Production Line", etc.

Some netizens said: "Only you can't think of it, there is no zongzi bag that can't go in." Meat dumplings, crystal dumplings, Jiaxing Bawang rice dumplings, Fujian seafood dumplings, chocolate milk tea dumplings, sea urchin dumplings, eel dumplings... The "Zongzi" art grand view in the north and south of the river has its own characteristics, and this year's eating of zongzi has the feeling of dismantling the blind box. For example, there are "taro dumplings" in Longyou County, Quzhou City, Zhejiang Province, and there are Ash Dumplings in Guangxi, which is a medicinal plant that is very common in the southern part of the mainland. Leizhou in Zhanjiang, Guangdong Province, has a "duck dumpling" with a very unique shape. In Zhujia Village, Lishui, Nanjing, there are actually crab-shaped rice dumplings. The rice dumpling market is quite rolled, not only cola dumplings, spicy cabbage dumplings, coffee dumplings, durian ice dumplings, plant meat dumplings and many other new products are out of the circle.

In ancient times, the "dumpling" art grand view, food blogger Su Dongpo loved to eat bayberry dumplings

Portrait of Su Shi Painted by Chen Hongshou in the late Ming Dynasty

In ancient times, there were already Chinese medicine dumplings,

Su Shi loves to eat bayberry dumplings

Young cultural scholar Hou Yinguo told reporters that zongzi appeared very early, and the zongzi characters were first written as "rice dumplings", and the "Shuowen Jiezi" said "rice, reed leaves wrapped in rice". In ancient times, it was also called "horned yellow", which was wrapped with white leaves and made into a bull horn shape. In the Records of Customs and Soil of the Jiangsu People's Zhou Department during the Western Jin Dynasty, it is said that "midsummer Dragon Boat Festival, Fang Bo Xieji, cooking vultures, using horns, turtle scales Shunde". In the Ming Dynasty Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica", it is clearly stated that rice is wrapped in leaves and boiled into sharp horns or palm leaf shapes, so it is called "horned rice" or "rice dumplings".

In ancient times, the "dumpling" art grand view, food blogger Su Dongpo loved to eat bayberry dumplings

It is said that the oldest surviving Zongzi was found in the ancient tombs of the Song Dynasty. In December 2010, an ancient tomb of the Song Dynasty was found on the outskirts of De'an County, which has been around for more than 700 years. According to archaeologists, the owner of the tomb is the daughter of the Song Dynasty Ningguo Fu Tongjue and Guoshi Zhou Yinghe, and the burial time is 1274 AD.

The two zongzi found in the tomb are because the tomb owner did not catch the Dragon Boat Festival when he died, and then people buried two zongzi with them to enjoy the tomb owner, and the two zongzi also have the meaning of double pairs and auspicious wishes, and this pair of zongzi is also the earliest physical zongzi found in the world.

There are many "ingredients" that can be added to zongzi, and like mooncakes, today's merchants have developed a variety of zongzi. But unlike mooncakes, which were relatively single in ancient times, Zongzi did have a variety of unique fillings in ancient times. Hou Yinguo said that the earliest use of Chinese herbal medicine was. Since the Jin Dynasty, it has been popular to add a kind of Traditional Chinese medicine called "Nootropic" to Zongzi, which is said to cure bedwetting in children and has a very practical effect. Of course, people pay more attention to the meaning of its name, people believe that this kind of rice dumpling can make children more intelligent, passed on to future generations, and because "粽" and "Zhong" are homophonous, people have begun to respect "Zhuangyuan Zong". The popular "Zongzhuangyuan" (harmonic "Zhongzhuangyuan") on the market today can also be regarded as a lingering afterglow.

In ancient times, there were also all kinds of dried fruits put into rice dumplings, and Su Shi also ate bayberry dumplings. In the "Poem of the Old Communists Sitting at Night and Watching the Year" collected in the "Jade New Song", it is said, "Peaches are happy in wine, and bayberry is found in rice dumplings." Later, Su Shi borrowed this allusion and said in the Dragon Boat Festival post written by Yuan You in the third year, "Do not see Lu Tangerine in the plate alone, but get yangmei in the rice dumplings."

Su Shi's post not only contains various rice dumplings, but also writes how to eat rice dumplings. The second of the Six Songs of the Empress Dowager's Cabinet: "Chao Lai borrowed Tian Ling, and The Emperor offered Shi Fang." Among them, "菰" refers to the white, also known as high bamboo shoots, the fruit is called "koji rice", and the leaves can be used to wrap rice dumplings; "黍" refers to the sticky yellow rice after cooking, and "菰黍" refers to the rice dumplings wrapped in the leaves. The "Five Silks of the Lady's Pavilion" in the "Four Songs of lady's Pavilion" refers to the multigrain dumplings containing sorghum and rice in the bamboo tube, and the bamboo tube is wrapped with multicolored silk threads. The fifth of the Six Songs of the Imperial Empress Dowager's Pavilion writes about a fruit dumpling wrapped in bayberry: "Do not see Lu Tangerine in the plate alone, but get the bayberry in the rice dumpling." ”

In the Song Dynasty, zongzi not only added preserved fruits or preserves, but also "or added dates, or added sugar, and in recent years, pine, chestnut, walnut, ginger, cinnamon, musk and the like" (Lü Yuanming's "Miscellaneous Notes on the Years"). The third of the "Six Songs of the Imperial Empress's Pavilion" writes that zongzi is accompanied by ice wine: "The first neem of the green tube is wrapped, and the silk is wrapped again." The water hall opens the ice book, and the jelly jade pot. Among them, "Cui Tube" is today's bamboo tube rice, which is one of the prototypes of Zongzi, called "Tube Zongzi" in ancient times, wrapped in bitter neem leaves. "Qian" is the same as "incense", and ancient books also refer to herbs such as perilla, and "Qian" is fragrant rice, which is wrapped in leaves and made into rice dumplings. The "Ice Book" is an ancient large-mouth container containing ice cubes that could refrigerate food. These posts are painted as a "Dragon Boat Festival": During the Dragon Boat Festival, in the waterfront building, the table is filled with various types of rice dumplings such as tube dumplings, fruit dumplings, fragrant rice dumplings, etc., and the plate contains seasonal fresh fruits such as loquat (called "Lu Tangerine in the poem"), and is also equipped with iced wine, which is enough to relieve the summer heat.

By the Tang and Song dynasties, the types of rice dumplings were already very rich, including horn dumplings, cone dumplings, ling dumplings, weigh hammer dumplings, nine zi dumplings, pine millet dumplings, walnut dumplings, ginger gui dumplings, musk dumplings and so on. Some of these names are because of the ingredients, and some are because of the shape. The so-called nine rice dumplings are nine rice dumplings connected into a string.

Yangtze Evening News/Purple Cow News reporter Zhang Nan

Read on