"You are clothed, but you are clothed with the Son." Chinese costume culture not only represents the unique spiritual identity of the Chinese nation, but also highlights the deep spiritual pursuit. The Paper learned that on January 25, the "Yunxiang Clothing - Silk Road Costume Culture Special Exhibition" opened at the Chengdu Museum. Through the interpretation of the development and changes of costume culture along the Silk Road, the exhibition explores the continuous development of traditional Chinese costumes in ethnic integration, and highlights the artistic achievements of the Chinese nation as the "Kingdom of Clothing and Crown". The exhibits include the clothes of the Mashan Warring States Tomb in Jingzhou City, the phoenix bird flower pattern brocade robe, the dragon-shaped gold necklace and the jewel-encrusted gold crown jewelry excavated in Mongolia, and the caisang silk portrait brick unearthed in Gansu.
Exhibition site
Throughout the ages, clothing culture has been an important vein in traditional Chinese culture. With the theme ideas of "The Belt and Road", "National Integration" and "Technology and Cultural Exchange", the exhibition shows the historical trajectory of the integration and development of multi-source costume culture on the Silk Road through themes such as "The Beginning of the Silk Road and the Western Transmission of Han Jin", "The Integrated Development of National Costumes", "Weaving Technology and Style Innovation", etc., and outlines a picture of the continuous and thriving Chinese national costume culture.
Yi Warring States Jingzhou Museum
Bird flower pattern brocade robe (replica) Warring States Jingzhou Museum
The brocade robes and phoenix flower pattern brocade robes from the Mashan Warring States Tomb in Jingzhou City tell the story of the development of China's silk weaving industry in the pre-Qin period; there are dragon-shaped gold necklace ornaments and jewel-encrusted gold crown ornaments unearthed in Inner Mongolia, and jin fangqi excavated from Ningxia Yanchi that empirically prove the exchange and integration of foreign culture and Central Plains costume culture; the picking mulberry silk portrait bricks unearthed in Gaotai County, Gansu Province, which truly depict the local textile production technology in the western regions of the Wei and Jin dynasties, showing the spread of central plain textile technology along the Silk Road.
Dragon-shaped gold necklace jin dynasty Inner Mongolia Museum
Gem-encrusted gold crown ornament Han Dynasty Inner Mongolia Museum
Hunting Tujin "Fang Qi" Sixteen Kingdoms Period - Sui Dynasty Yanchi County Museum
The exhibition involves 23 exhibitors, concentrating the characteristic historical and cultural resources of Chengdu and the cultural and cultural units along the Silk Road, not only the classic collection of the provincial large pavilion, but also the fine cultural relics of a number of small and medium-sized museums in the places that have rarely entered the public eye before. For this cooperation model, the curator said that this not only satisfies the needs of Chengbo as a curator, gathers more cultural relics and concentrates on presenting a good exhibition, but also promotes the exchange of collection resources of local museums, so that their collection of exquisite cultural relics can be fully displayed; at the same time, it can also meet the audience's viewing needs for new exhibitions and optimistic exhibitions, and can appreciate the style of exquisite cultural relics in different regions, and achieve mutual benefit and mutual benefit and win-win results.
Cai Sangtu portrait brick Wei Jin Gaotai County Museum
Silk tow of the picking machine portrait brick Wei Jin Gaotai County Museum
Cut cloth picture portrait brick Wei Jin Gaotai County Museum
Open box picture portrait brick Wei Jin Gaotai County Museum
The Silk Road has just opened, and the Wind is blowing
Silkworm ancestors, silkworm bush people raise silkworms, silkworm god horse head lady... As early as thousands of years ago, the ancient Chinese ancestors had already domesticated wild mulberry silkworms into silkworms, and then invented silk reeling and silk weaving techniques to establish a primitive silk weaving industry.
By the second century BC, Emperor Wudi of the Han Dynasty sent Zhang Qian on an envoy to the Western Regions, opening up the famous "Silk Road" in history, and the Han Dynasty costume system was established.
From crown clothes to hair ornaments, from silk brocade to yarn, the clothing system with Han cultural characteristics has gradually formed, and a beautiful journey has begun in the Yangyang Han style.
During the Western Han Dynasty, the silk fabrics unearthed by Mawangdui in Changsha were light and transparent, and the appearance had a plain weave organization with obvious square holes, reflecting the rapid progress of Chinese costume culture under the great unification and prosperity of the Han Dynasty.
Sealed gold and silver flame pattern yarn Western Han Dynasty Hunan Provincial Museum
Yellow-brown on the bird diamond pattern, with the embroidery as the embroidery ground, the weave and embroidery pattern shine together, the pattern in the geometric pattern, animal and plant pattern alternate distribution, especially luxurious. Peach-shaped patterns and cloud patterns, called "cloud embroidery", means "phoenix bird riding clouds".
Yellow-brown bird diamond pattern "embroidery by the clouds" Western Han Dynasty Hunan Provincial Museum
A thousand mountains and colors, showing the beauty of the clothes
During the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the Southern Silk Road, henan province of the Northern Silk Road, starting from Chengdu, flourished. Costume cultures from different regions and different nationalities competed on the Silk Road, constituting the main theme of multicultural integration.
During this period, tuguhuns, guizi, great Qin and other ancient countries in the western region, xianbei, qiang, xenon and other ethnic minorities lived in a staggered mixed, and the characteristics of the costumes of various ethnic groups were blended and intertwined, forming a unique fashion of unbridled and unsculpted.
Zi Valerian Former Qin Institute of Cultural Relics and Archaeology of Gansu Province
Former Qin purple valerian, tie-dye valerian point is square, evenly tiled, staggered and orderly; the cuffs are wide, the waist is wide, such a large fabric of the wrench is very rare, wearing its clothes, with a sense of fairy flow.
Former Qin, Gansu Provincial Institute of Cultural Relics and Archaeology
Former Qin crimson green skirt, the skirt has two colors, blue and crimson, a total of six pieces, using the skirt between the jumping color splicing weaving, is the Wei and Jin Southern and Northern Dynasties period of the "fashion explosion".
At the same time, in the stage of the great integration of clothing culture and the prosperity and development of the Silk Road, the Western Regions have begun to produce silk fabrics locally, and the patterns integrate the characteristics of Chinese and Western cultures, with unique exotic styles.
Plain silk acacia pants Northern Wei Beijing Institute of Fashion National Costume Museum
Acacia pants are made by connecting the left and right pieces. These pants, spliced by rectangular fabrics, cut the fabric as sparingly as possible, embody the traditional Chinese concept of creation of "cherishing things", and at the same time meet the functional needs to the greatest extent.
Hunting Tujin "Fang qi", its ornamentation has a distinctly extraterritorial style. Hunting warriors have the characteristics of nomadic people, winged lions are the artistic factors of the Persian Achaemenid dynasty, and the outer frame dragon pattern is a representative of traditional Chinese ornaments, so this "Fangqi" has become a historical "witness" of cultural integration and cultural exchange on the Silk Road.
The new style of Datang began to form the Kingdom of Clothing and Crown
"The clouds want to dress and flowers, and the spring breeze blows Revlon." Shi Xian Li Bai's "Yun Xiang Clothes" shows the grace and beauty of Yang Guifei's costumes. This kind of richness is inseparable from the prosperity of the time.
The Tang Dynasty has launched the most splendid and dazzling chapter in ancient China, and the costumes of the Tang Dynasty have inherited the winds of the Qin and Han Dynasties and the Wei and Jin Dynasties, and the beauty of the countries along the Silk Road has profoundly affected the development of costumes in East Asia, achieving the reputation of the Chinese nation as the "Kingdom of Clothing and Crowns", and leaving a strong mark in Chinese history.
Painted gray pottery figurines Tang Kaiyuan 18th year Gyeongseong County Museum
Painted gray pottery from the Kaiyuan Dynasty, the female figurines comb their hair in buns, and their sideburns cover their ears. Dressed in a long skirt with a long skirt, feet and feet, a large black folded collar, hands around the waist, the form is dignified and generous, graceful and luxurious.
Painted male figurines Tang Qingcheng County Museum
The figurine is wrapped in a black head, wearing a round neck underwear with white flowers on a black background, and a light black right-sided robe. The abdomen is tied with a black leather belt, and the left hem of the robe is lifted up and tucked under the leather belt, revealing the moon white lining and four-petaled red silk pants, and the feet are on the white pointed shoes. The clay figurine has a plump face and a smiling face, with his left arm bent on his chest, his right arm outstretched, and his forearm with wide pink sleeves.
Treasure pattern brocade robe Tang China Silk Museum
From the style point of view, the piece should be a narrow-sleeved robe. The fabric is organized as a twill weft brocade. The pattern is a typical Tang Dynasty Tuanqiao treasure pattern, the treasure flower of the big flower with eight front petals as the core, and then with eight blooming side-style treasure flowers as the second layer, the outermost layer is also eight flowers and leaves at the same time, layer by layer treasure blossom, very gorgeous and rich.
Red Ground Flap On Ma Jinyi Tang Chinese Silk Museum
Short-sleeved kaftan with a red brocade, flowers in yellow, blue and other colors of silk thread, and decorated with exotic Tsushima inside the petals.
From makeup to clothing, from accessories to wear, the cultural characteristics of Tang Dynasty costumes are vividly displayed in clothing, and through them, it seems to see the glorious and beautiful Huazhang prosperous world.
Tuan Qiao Lian Bead Flower Tree against Deer Pattern Brocade Hat Tang China Silk Museum
Brown embroidered flower Aya bag Tang Gansu Provincial Museum
Looking back at the Silk Road, from the technological innovation of hand-cranked spinning wheels to bouquet jacquard machines, from the continuous attempts of twill weft brocade to gold-added fabrics, from the pleated crotches of pants that integrate the cultures of the North and the South, to the openness and compatibility of the unique fashion of "women wearing men's clothing" in the Tang Dynasty... Chinese clothing has been evolving and changing, being inclusive and developing a more diversified spiritual core. Its connotation lies in continuous bold innovation, in the unique concept and wisdom, and in the inner arrogance and pride.
Affected by the epidemic in Xi'an, some exhibits from Shaanxi had to be postponed. To this end, the exhibition specially launched immersive historical images to bring everyone a unique viewing experience. The audience will see that the multiple projectors in the center of the exhibition hall reflect the overlapping frames, reflecting on the curved wall in front, reproducing the exquisite story paintings of Dunhuang, the images of painted figures, the animal head brocade excavated from the Loulan site in Xinjiang, and various colored embroideries from the Niya site... The flashes of light are like walking into history alone, personally experiencing the changes and changes of Yangyang Chinese costume culture.
Exhibition posters
(The graphics and text of this article are provided by Chengdu Museum)