As we all know, the old Beijingers' food, clothing, housing and transportation have been deeply branded by the Shandong people. It can be said that without the efforts of shandong people, the inner and outer cities of old Beijing can become paralyzed overnight. There are silk cloth shops opened by Shandong people; there are water wheels pushed by Shandong watermen for drinking water; there are grain stores opened by Shandong people at the mouth of the hutongs on the street; there are big car shops opened by Shandong people on the road; there are Shandong hedding who are brave enough to go forward in battles and are not afraid of life and death, and even the cleanliness of Beijing's city is inseparable from the dung men of Shandong. Therefore, the operation of Beijing City is inseparable from the hard work of Shandong people. However, unfortunately, the Lu cuisine that could best make Shandong people hold up their faces in old Beijing in the past has lost its former style.
Old Beijing grain store
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > large and small restaurants throughout the Beijing Division, Shandong restaurant number one</h1>
In the past, how many restaurants there were in old Beijing is really difficult to count. But it is clear that the places where old Beijing ate were diverse, with differences in scale and grade. Among them, the rice zhuangzi is the largest, just like the big courtyard in old Beijing. The gate can enter the car, and there are halls, cross-houses, small courtyards, and single rooms, which are quite large. But in this kind of rice village to eat, can not be a la carte, must be the whole table. The guise at the entrance is a wooden sign with the words "Don" written on it. It can be said that in the old Beijing ten restaurants, eight are opened by Shandong people. Like the 100 days and one year of the newborn of the old Beijing Rich and Noble Home, the elderly have a birthday, and they will generally choose such a pompous rice village, of course, there is no shortage of stages.
The streets of old Beijing are lined with shops and restaurants
In addition to Iizuri, the last first class in scale is the restaurant. Restaurants are mainly divided into four categories: garden, pavilion, residence, and building. These four types of restaurants can not only sell vegetables like a rice village, but also allow customers to order zero dishes. It can be said that these four types of restaurants are widely distributed in Beijing, and the price is cheaper than that of Rice Zhuangzi. They can flexibly meet the needs of customers. But to speak of, the owners of these four types of restaurants are undoubtedly the most Shandong people. It can be said that Shandong people in the catering industry of old Beijing, to say second, no one dares to call the first.
Old Beijing restaurant
Except for the rice houses and restaurants, the remaining ones are relatively rough and casual. For example, large tea houses, small tea houses, and two meat shops. These sell both tea and rice, but there is no delicate dish at all, it can only be a pad to supplement the stomach, and it is impossible to talk about tasting. The second meat shop may not be well understood by people now. In fact, it is a small rice shop that sells both clear tea and wine rice, because it only sells pork and mutton, so it is called a two-meat shop. Of course, in old Beijing, there are also places to eat inferior to large tea houses and small tea houses and two meat shops. That is, the big shops, the beef restaurants, the small tofu houses, these eating places are specially prepared for those who make a big effort to pull foreign cars.
Old Beijing TeaHouse
For large tea houses, small tea houses, two meat shops, big goods shops, beef restaurants, small tofu houses, such as eating places, because there is no so-called exquisite dish, do not need superb cooking skills, so many people can open at will. But shandong people are disdainful of opening such a small restaurant, because they have superb cooking skills, and behind the superb cooking skills is the famous Lu cuisine of The Beijing Master. The real Lu cuisine is found in rice villages and high-grade restaurants.
Street food stalls
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > old Beijing time-honored restaurant, the pride of Shandong people</h1>
As we said above, the restaurants in old Beijing are divided into four categories: gardens, pavilions, residences, and buildings. Among them, most of them are opened by Shandong people. There are some long-established restaurants. Like the Well-known Dongxing Building, Taifeng Building, Tongheju, Zhimeizhai, and the later Fengze Garden. Although they are all restaurants opened by Shandong people, each family also has common dishes and also has its own good dishes.
Dongxing Building
For their common dishes, it can be said that there are too many to list, but for Dongxing Lou, the sauce fried chicken cubes, fried raw chicken slices, fried raw duck slices, stir-fried shrimp, fried belly kernels, than several other restaurants are more skilled. The most distinctive feature is the unique steamed date mud square garden in Dongxing Building. Tai Fung Lou's outstanding dishes are also not inferior, including fried eight pieces, salt fried belly kernels, salt fried eel, steamed duck, sauce mid-section and so on. Tongheju is not far behind, their excellent dishes include hibiscus chicken slices, fried shrimp balls, pan fish, river tofu, pot collapsed tofu, and a major feature is that Tongheju's large steamed buns are very famous. This steamed bun needs to be cooled, coated with oil on the outer skin, buttoned up and baked, and the taste is very good.
Tai Fung Building
For Zhimei Zhai, not only the date paste filling, pretzel filling, dried vegetable filling of the oven roast cake and the Mid-Autumn Moon Cake are extremely well done, but also the dishes such as caught stir-fried chicken shreds, bad fish fillets, and salt fried belly shreds are also very good. Compared to these distinctive restaurants, it seems that the mooncakes and various dim sums of the mei zhai are even more memorable. Among them, a grape-filled mooncake with half of the skin filling, without obvious separation, is both crispy and soft. Especially when it is hot, it is simply amazing.
Now the bad fish fillets
Compared with the relatively late Fengze Garden, naturally there are no dishes such as large black ginseng, yellow braised duck liver, steamed ham and other dishes. Among them, the large black ginseng was unique to Fortress Garden in the past, and when it came up, a large plate could only contain two, one about 34 cm long, 11 cm wide, and 3 cm thick. For those stir-fried dishes, the sauce fried chicken is usually packed on a plate with a diameter of 23 cm. After the guys brought it up, everyone basically clipped a chopstick and disappeared, and if they finished eating, they could call again. This is both fine and waste-free.
Now the sauce is fried with diced chicken
It can be said that these long-established restaurants in the Shandong system in old Beijing have really given Shandong people face. So-called, a hundred flowers bloom, each with its own characteristics. Each Lu dish embodies the qualities of Shandong people's honesty, righteousness, frugality, hospitality and extravagance. At that time, Lu cuisine not only won the praise of the Beijing people, but also became the pride of the Shandong people.
<h1 class= "pgc-h-arrow-right" > restaurant guys are well-served, and Shandong restaurants add another point</h1>
For the quality and taste of the dishes, that is the most basic requirement of the restaurant. The Shandong restaurants in old Beijing have won the praise of old Beijingers in this regard. In addition to the taste of the dishes, it is natural to have the service of the restaurant. So what is the quality of the service of these Restaurants opened by Shandong people, and what is the difference between them and the current restaurants?
Young chef of Shandong restaurant
Now, many restaurants have a clear rule that they refuse to bring their own drinks. This makes many customers uncomfortable, and they always feel that the distance between the hotel and the customers is one layer. Of course, this also includes some restaurants that operate Lu cuisine. However, in the past, these Shandong restaurants did not prohibit customers from bringing their own drinks. Customers like to drink wine on the counter of the restaurant, of course, the restaurant operator is very happy, if not to drink, they naturally will not force it. If the customer comes to the restaurant opened by the Shandong people to eat, and does not like to drink the wine inside, he can let the guys in the restaurant go elsewhere to help buy wine. If the customer has already said hello to the liquor seller before coming, the liquor seller will also bring the liquor quickly. In short, restaurants opened by Shandong people will never force customers to drink their own wine, and they will not prohibit bringing their own alcohol. It can be said that there is a big gap between the current restaurant and the restaurant of the past in this regard.
Republic of China restaurant guys
Guys at restaurants used to be able to get along with customers like friends. As long as the customer comes a few times, the guy will usually remember the customer's preference for the dish in his mind. If a customer comes to dinner, they do not reserve a full table, but order it to order. When the customer orders a certain amount, the guy will whisper, "Enough, not enough to eat, you can ask for it again." "If the customer has something to do and wants to finish eating and hurry up, then the dish will continue." If the customer is not in a hurry to drink, the guy will whisper a question, "Is the dish coming, or do you listen?" "The so-called listening, that is, the customer lets a dish, the guy will immediately serve one, the customer will not let go, the guy will not go first." In short, the restaurant always puts the customer first and tries to meet the needs of the customers. Of course, customers will not make nonsensical requests.
Restaurant young chef
Even if the customer's casual request is, the guy will try to meet it. Sometimes customers ask for a live fish, and they ask for two methods, one is to make a middle part of the sauce, and the rest of the head and tail are added to the radish shreds to make a soup. Of course, sometimes after eating shark fin soup, customers will ask the guy to cook a bowl of soup noodles with this juice after eating some juice. In short, as long as the customer makes a request, the guy can do it and will never refuse. This is the restaurant opened by the old Beijing Shandong people, this is the service of the guys in the restaurant. These guys and the chefs in the back kitchen must undergo rigorous training, and they must learn excellent skills and excellent service in the three-year section. Of course, the suffering they suffer is also difficult for laymen to understand. As the saying goes, the one who suffers in the midst of suffering is a superior person. Although they did not become good people, they won the praise of others for their work.
Apprentices eat
<h1 class="pgc-h-arrow-right" > Lu cuisine has changed its flavor and the glory is gone</h1>
Shandong restaurants can support the face of Shandong people in old Beijing, naturally thanks to the excellent Lu cuisine and meticulous and thoughtful service. However, today everything has changed, making it difficult for the old people to reminisce about the past and for young people to know the past. It can be said that Lu cuisine is no longer the original taste that can not be tired of eating, and the quality of service is not as attentive and thoughtful as the previous guys. Of course, many dishes have disappeared without a trace. The large black ginseng that used to be the raw material is no longer the original raw material, and even ordinary sea cucumbers are difficult to compare with the past in terms of thickness and length. The fish fillets that were once slightly rolled and crispy in one bite have also become flat and neat, and they can't taste the unique groove flavor of the past; braised mullet eggs, the broth that requires several chickens to hang, seems to have become a strange soup made of water and sour spices, and added MSG.
Braised mullet egg soup
Once a large bowl of braised shark fin, a large bowl of stewed lotus wings, and the osmanthus shark fin that was fried into a osmanthus shape and a loose fin needle, can be sandwiched with chopsticks to send to the mouth, eat quite enjoyable, but now it has become a small bowl in front of each person, which has a little seasoning and a few so-called fin needles, if you want to eat, you must carefully look for it in the bowl, and even use artificial shark fin, whether in quantity or quality, it is difficult to compare with before.
Shark fin noodles with abalone sauce
In the past, if you want to make excellent Lu cuisine, you must have good raw materials. Shark fin soup is the yellow meat fin sold in a seafood wholesale market outside the Zhengyang Gate Guandi Temple, also known as Luzon Yellow. If you want to make braised abalone, you must buy purple abalone, the color is purple-brown, about seven or eight minutes thick, about two inches long, oval. To really make an authentic Lu dish, you must not only have authentic raw materials, but also have excellent cooking skills. Chefs start with apprentices and are taught by example through the words and deeds of teachers. Even when you reach the master, you must follow the master to learn and accumulate experience. Sometimes the master will let the apprentice make several dishes and ask the old customer to taste how it tastes, so as to comment on the apprentice's craftsmanship. In fact, after strict training and the master's words and deeds, the apprentice can reach the level of tasting by customers, and it can be said that he has done a good job.
Now braised abalone
Why can't you make the taste of Lu cuisine in the past, among them, there are reasons for the difference in raw materials, there are also reasons for the loss of traditional cooking skills, and of course, they are inseparable from the requirements of customers. Many people nowadays have not eaten traditional Lu cuisine, so they think that the current Lu cuisine is the most orthodox Lu cuisine, with this meaning, so they can't ask for it. At the same time, people are now staggered, just for drinking, talking about business, and few people pay attention to the quality of the dishes. There are also some rich people, who think they are rich, and deliberately swing and support the scene in terms of inviting guests to eat, as long as the most expensive ones, but ignore the low-priced but characteristic traditional Lu dishes. Customers have no high requirements for a long time, can not give advice, the level of restaurants is difficult to improve, and even will decline, over time, compared with the past is simply not on the same level.
Now people eat and drink
In the past, the old Beijing city gathered princes and nobles, high-ranking officials and nobles, rich merchants and tycoons, who had quite fine requirements for dishes. There are four main ways of hospitality: the first, as is now, gathered in a restaurant, drinking wine, chatting about the sky, and tasting Lu cuisine. However, the most demanding thing for them was not wine, but the Lu cuisine in front of them. They will give their own different suggestions according to the dishes and communicate with each other. If the advice is appropriate, let the guy do the dishes according to his own suggestions. Over time, many good dishes have appeared in the process of continuous attempts. The chefs at the restaurant will continue to innovate and strive to make dishes that are more suitable for the tastes of customers.
Late Qing Friends Dinner
The second way of hospitality is that the guest takes the initiative to send the dishes prepared by himself to the home of the person being invited. This kind of hospitality is rare now. Of course, these dishes are the most popular dishes in the home of the guest, so this is also conducive to the improvement of the dishes at home. If you have a good dish at home, you will naturally compare it with the dishes of the restaurant, and there will be a comparison, which can also promote the improvement of the restaurant's dishes. The third type of invitation is that the guest sends the ticket (meal ticket) from his favorite restaurant to the person who is invited, so that they can eat at any time. After that, the guest and the invited person will definitely discuss the dish. The fourth type of invitation is that the guest directly asks the chef of the Lu restaurant to cook at the home of the person who is invited. This can also promote the continuous improvement of the taste of lu cuisine chefs in order to meet the needs of people with different tastes.
Late Qing dynasty rich people eat pomp and pageantry
In short, with the continuous improvement of the quality of Lu cuisine by the old Beijingers, the chefs of Lu Cuisine Restaurant naturally have to strive for excellence and innovation to meet the needs of customers. Over time, Lu cuisine became the best of the old Beijing population. However, now, whether it is raw materials, cooking skills, or customers' demand for Lu cuisine is not as good as in the past. The Lu cuisine of the old Beijing time-honored restaurant has not only changed its appearance, but also changed its taste. At the beginning, Lu cuisine supported the face of Shandong people in Beijing, but now it is impossible to taste authentic Lu cuisine.