"Lanzhou cuisine to eat and eat" [the third to eat] Lanzhou people another bowl of flavor thick, soft and sticky fresh, fragrant, have eaten unforgettable noodles, the old name of pork noodles, now known as fat intestine noodles
Lanzhou fat intestinal noodles
Lanzhou fat sausage noodles are very local flavor pasta, as well as very distinctive business methods, most of them have exclusive names, exclusive operations, exclusive secret seasonings, unique aroma (is the fat intestine's high fat after cooking the volatilization of the thick fat aroma) unique diners group, and in the window diners only mention the noodle type requirements and how much fat intestines, as for the number of noodles, the intensity of the seasoning, the number of spices are determined by the chef, less than one point or more will affect the taste, so that diners feel regret, feel lost. This unique endowment is very different from the four famous foods in Lanzhou (beef noodles, noodles, fried sauce noodles, and fatty intestine noodles). From ramen noodles, boiled sausages, seasoning, and served in one go, and the seasonings are also exclusive and secret, very distinctive, that is, the same fat sausage noodle operators also have privacy for the seasonings. As long as you walk into any noodle restaurant, you will first smell a strong and unique fragrance, the soft sticky fresh fragrance of the entrance brings the comfort of the tip of the tongue and the sense of invigorating the heart is indescribable, and the happiness after eating is expressed in a form, and when you walk out of the store, you have to look back three times and take another sip of aroma. Smelling the incense is definitely not the excessive words of the literati or the excessive decoration of the literati, and this is indeed the situation. It can be seen that the aroma of fat intestine noodles will penetrate deep into the hearts and minds of diners and inject into the storage system of the taste tongue. In addition, the soft and hard moderate fat intestine is very chewy, and the more chewy the more fragrant, that is the fat aroma of the fat intestine has been absorbed by the taste buds and the feeling of production, while eating noodles, while drinking soup also let the tip of the tongue continue to absorb the noodles, fat and pepper, garlic superposition, compound taste, there is a feeling of wanting to put can not, a bite down can not hold, the more you eat the more fragrant, the more fragrant the more you eat, this is the unique charm of Lanzhou fat intestine noodles can grasp the hearts and stomachs of diners.
So many unique Lanzhou fat intestine noodles, it is not easy to do a good job, it is very difficult, people without two brushes are not easy to enter the fat intestine noodles, the so-called entrepreneurship is afraid of entering the wrong line is what it means. The first is that cleaning and removing odors is extremely difficult, only fat intestine selection and cleaning is very difficult, although it is not technical work, but conscience work, careless, full of loss. The selection of materials is fixed to a few good reputation, integrity, good quality and stable slaughterhouse, once joined forces, basically unchanged, not sent to the door, face-to-face verification, or door-to-door pick-up, on-site verification. Fat intestine smell bad, to eliminate its taste, turn decay into magic, in addition to continuous cleaning, but also the use of alkali, white vinegar and flour and other means, until the intestine powder tender, no peculiar smell will stop. The second boiled fat intestine is also very cautious, from the fat intestine into the pot with spices, watch the fire, do not relax for a moment, to achieve the aroma overflowing, soup color milky white, fat intestines are tangible, soft and hard moderate cooking standard is a craft work, craftsman work, these key jobs are carried out by the store or cronies reliable people, can not reach the standard, do not mess up to the pot. Since having a pressure cooker, it is relatively easy, but it is also determined according to the actual material selection and cleaning, and I dare not take it lightly. The third exclusive seasoning is also generally operated by the owner alone, generally not passed on, not shared. Because lanzhou fat sausage noodle system is difficult to do, craftsmanship, recipe, secret system are all family heirlooms, fathers to sons, sons to grandchildren, men and women, of course, but also to kowtow beginner disciples and close sons-in-law. Therefore, in the new second-tier cities with a population of four million in Lanzhou City, the six districts and three counties plus the Lanzhou New District, there are no more than three hundred local fat sausage noodles, an average of more than 10,000 people, and less than twenty well-known ones, such as the Ma family in Jiandao Lane, the Chen family in The Middle Street, the Wang family in Wuquan Mountain, the Anning Bai family, the Baiyin Road Li family, the Yan family on the old road, the Yan family in Yantan, the xigu family, the diners of every family, and the shops are very profitable. But in recent years, due to the rise of raw and auxiliary materials, labor costs have increased, Lanzhou fat intestinal noodles have also risen all the way, the increase is more than 40%, a bowl of the most common to 16 yuan, a single plus reached 25 yuan, pure buying of stork intestines a pound to more than 80 yuan, the highest to 120 yuan, these have affected the expansion of the diners, but also affected the profits of the merchants themselves. However, no matter how it rises, it is a bowl of noodles, it does not matter how this mouth, how to rise will not lose the taste of the tongue, of course, most diners can still accept it. There is also a Lanzhou fatty intestine noodles that has no restrictions on the operating hours, and the store can also learn from each other's strengths. Fortunately, the diners of Lanzhou fat sausage noodles are also changing, originally based on the old taste, a good bite of the old man (and local middle-aged people) as the basic team, in the nineties Lanzhou fat sausage noodles entered the hot period of the city, the family is booming, the store can not sit down, or stand or crouch on the road teeth to eat. A few days ago, I went to the Old Huangjiayuan Fat Sausage Noodle Shop to eat noodles, and there were 40% female diners in the full store, and most of them were young and middle-aged, which was an immeasurable potential team.
There is an advertising slogan that says that Lanzhou fat intestine noodles are the memories of Lanzhou people, and also says that Lanzhou fat intestine noodles have a hundred years of inheritance, the author has not examined, but the memory of nearly 70 years ago is still there, and what I have seen with my own eyes is true. In the early summer of 1954, my mother took me to eat fat sausage noodles, which was also the first time in my life. In the current city center of Nanguan Shizi North Road West, north of Shuncheng Lane, a pork noodle restaurant (now known as fat intestine noodle restaurant) on the south side of wanli jintang two doors are open, the aroma is overflowing (it is this incense that has attracted countless diners, no wonder there is now ridicule, to grab a person's heart, grasp the tip of the tongue is more magical) is very attractive to the passers-by, a door for diners to enter and exit, one is the operation room, passers-by can see, on the stove with a large pot, the pot is filled with fat intestines, soup color milky white, but also steaming, the pot is placed on a wooden cutting board, The fat intestines, which are cut into small pieces, still flow with juice and constantly drip into the pot. At the side of the pot stood a slightly fat male chef of about 50 years old, he according to the requirements of the diners, while fishing out the hot fat intestines from the pot, while choosing to cut the fat intestines or thin small intestines, the ramen noodles that were prepared to be cooled were constantly used in hot soup, four or five times, put on the cut fat intestines, and then poured on the soup, a layer of oil flowers sparkling, and then mixed with secret spices and chili oil, a small spoonful of salt, a small spoonful of vinegar, sprinkled with garlic seedlings and coriander, when you receive the warm fat intestine noodles into the eyes, the heart is also hot, eat to the mouth noodles slender tendons, eat to the mouth noodles slender tendons, The fat intestines are soft and fragrant, the white soup is delicious, and it really feels like eating dragon food in the heavenly garden. Now it seems that the current Lanzhou fat intestine noodles still inherit the essence and hospitality tradition of the old Lanzhou fat intestine noodles in the past, the difference is that the store façade is more courageous, the furniture in the store is more luxurious, the rice mouth is brighter, and the waiters are beautiful and capable. I heard that there is capital that has entered the fat intestine noodle industry, how to invest, manage, improve, and make profits has not yet seen the beginning.
Lanzhou fat intestine noodles also have the feelings of hometown relatives, and telepathy and tongue desire are also connected. Ten years ago, my cousin's family came from Beijing to visit relatives in Lanzhou, the author once accompanied them to eat Ma Zilu's beef noodles, Ma Zhonghua's hand grabbed, but also dedicated to tasting the Chen family's fat intestine noodles, ordered a large plate of marinated fat intestines and salt cucumber strips, sugar garlic, dried radish, each person a bowl of fat intestine noodles, eating active, excited, left a profound impact, I don't know what year it is, should be in the heavenly palace Que, praise for the hometown fat intestine noodles, has become the soul of Lanzhou hometown dreams. Later, when I went to Beijing, my cousin always chatted about the fat sausage noodles of his hometown, oil pots and white melons, and white pink peaches. Last year, my cousin had entered the rare year of ancient times, homesickness, and planned to come to Lanzhou again, but had to be put down because of the epidemic. Just think, eating a bowl of fat sausage noodles to relieve homesickness is definitely the reason, the love of the reason.
Fat sausage diet is a delicious food in China, with its own flavor characteristics in the north, south, east and west, and is also loved by people from all walks of life. For example, Jinan's "nine-turn large intestine" Chengdu's "dry sautéed fat intestines" and Xi'an's "gourd head steamed buns" are on the golden list of domestic diets, although Lanzhou fat intestine noodles can not be ranked with it, but its unique is also an anecdote in Lanzhou's food industry, and it is also one of the favorite flavor delicacies of Lanzhou people.
In the early morning of September 5, I wrote an essay in the dark room of Gulou Lane in Jincheng