In winter, your favorite pastime is to look at the street scene while basking in the sun.
Fuchengmen to the Xisi road junction area, I often visit. Recently, the sun is sunny, walking in the sun, looking at the various shops on the roadside: fried goods shops, foreign trade clothing stores, tea shops, cake shops, etc., it is like opening a kaleidoscope of life, there are all kinds of tastes to taste. The most special thing about this Funai Street is that there are many small doors that make trophies, and at noon, the light shines into the windows of these shops, and the various trophies are shiny and shiny, like the Crystal Palace. Usually, I'll stand outside the window for a while and imagine the person holding the trophy standing on the podium with a spring breeze on his face.
Funai Street is not wide, but the aura is not weak. From west to east, there are Lu Xun Museum, White Pagoda Temple, Imperial Temple of the Past Dynasties, Guojun Wangfu, Guangji Temple, and West Fourth Street Building. For people who like human geography, it takes a few days to look at it in detail.
In the afternoon, visit the Lu Xun Museum. The museum is divided into two parts, Lu Xun's former residence and Lu Xun's life exhibition, located at No. 21, Xisan tiao Hutong, at the entrance of Fuchengmen Inner Palace, and I visited lu xun once a few years ago when I was studying at Lu Xun College of Literature. I always have a special interest in the writer's house, because the writer has an inseparable relationship with geography.
Data Figure Xicheng District Shichahai Street Beijing Lu Xun Museum Ding Ding photo
Mr. Lu Xun has lived and worked in Beijing for nearly 15 years, and has lived in four places: Shaoxing Guild Hall outside Xuanwu Gate, No. 11 Badaowan Hutong, No. 61 Xisi Brick Tower Hutong, and this courtyard inside Fucheng Gate. Entering the courtyard, the first thing that comes into sight is two lilac trees, white lilacs, planted by Mr. Lu Xun on April 5, 1925. Lu Xun was very fond of plants, and was quite attentive to the cultivation of plants in his residence, and in 1920 he lived in Badaowan Hu and also planted cloves by hand. Reading Mr. Xue Linrong's "Lu Xun Grass and Wood Spectrum" learned that the middle-aged Lu Xun loved lilacs and hibiscus flowers the most, and he found a professional garden shop to design and create a garden, rather than planting some trees at will. In 1924, after moving into the new house, he invited Li Pangyu of yunsongkaku, a famous flower and wood shop, to discuss how to plant trees in the courtyard.
Li Pangyu is an expert in identifying ancient money in the glass factory, and he also knows how to plant trees, and the two of them deliberated and decided to plant trees on the Arbor Day of that year. Mr. Lu Xun recorded in his diary: "YunsongGe came to plant trees, counting two purple and white lilacs, one peach, two peppercorns, thorn plums, and elm plums, and three poplars." ”
After reading the article, I learned that Mr. Lu Xun liked poplar trees very much, and the house in Badaowan once had poplar trees. The guests came, chatting intently, a gust of wind came, the poplar leaves rattled, and the guests were about to leave, thinking that the rain was coming. The gentleman explained with a smile: "I planted this tree, the big leaf poplar rings when there is a wind, it sounds good, I like this tree." "This courtyard inside Fucheng Gate should have planted a few poplar trees before. In April 1926, Lu Xun wrote the prose poem "A Sleep", consciously or unconsciously writing about the trees outside the window: "The young leaves of the poplar outside the window shine in the sunlight, and the elm leaves and plums bloom more than yesterday." After cleaning up the daily newspapers scattered all over the bed, brushing away the pale dust that gathered on the desk last night, my small study in the square is still the so-called 'window is clear and clean' today. "Unfortunately, the poplar tree did not survive later.
The cloves of this season, the branches are vigorously upwards, and the yellow thorn plums in the backyard are also dry and dense, and there is not a single leaf and flower in sight. This is what winter looks like.
In this former residence, Mr. Lu Xun wrote "Wild Grass", "Huagai Collection", "Huagai Collection Sequel", as well as most of the works in "Wandering", "Chao Hua Xi Shi" and "Grave". His study, a hut of less than ten square meters, is a house that is picked up after the main room, with large glass windows, almost a studio, commonly known as "tiger tail". Although this study is shaded, it is unusually bright during the day. Imagine that within Lu Xun's field of vision, it should be the yellow thorn plum planted by his hand. In the spring, when the gentleman was tired of writing, he stood up, a long robe facing the window, perhaps holding a paper cigarette in his hand and pondering, facing a tree with a green and verdant yellow thorny plum.
In April and May, the fragrance of white cloves fills the garden, and the yellow thorn plums are also dazzling. However, who of the people who came to Lu Xun's former residence rushed to see the flowers? It is cold at the moment, but it is suitable for feeling Mr. Lu Xun's wind bone. In the midst of the depression, try to get closer to his state of mind. It is approaching the winter solstice, as the poet Bai Juyi said, "the winter solstice night of a year is long." On the day of the winter solstice, the day is the shortest and the night is the longest. Mr. Lu Xun's thin body has been running in the long dark night of old China. His image of bone determination, backlit into a woodcut. His agitated voice seemed to come from the dark night, echoing in time and space.
When I think of this, I can't calm my heart. I feel that the years in front of me are quiet, but there are actually countless people behind me carrying weights forward.
Suddenly I remembered Mr. Lu Xun's "Autumn Night": "In my back garden, I can see two trees outside the wall, one is a jujube tree, and the other is also a jujube tree. This article was also done in this former residence. These two jujube trees were later disappeared. But in the history of Chinese literature, this peculiar sentence has set a high standard for modern prose poetry.
Out of the Lu Xun Museum, the sun is still warm. Strolling east, I habitually drilled into several alleys to see the situation. Find out what special restaurants there are, listen to the neighbors shouting and laughing at each other, stop at the entrance of the commissary with old yogurt for a while, and look at the bird cage hanging on the wall, as well as the old motorcycle parked in front of the courtyard and the gourd shelf.
The East and West Fork Alleys in front of the White Pagoda Temple Palace are very suitable for wandering. The hutong has a century-old history, and after last year's renovation, the street was widened a lot, and after the repair, the old brick wall of the traditional courtyard was retained. The most important thing is to walk into the hutong, that is, you can get a great reward - take the most spectacular photo of the White Tower.
Infographic Pan's Hope
The White Pagoda Pagoda was built in the Yuan Dynasty, and the White Pagoda in the temple is the oldest and largest lama pagoda in China, which is even more spectacular than the White Pagoda in Beihai Park. The White Pagoda Temple, which has been closed for two years after renovation, has recently resumed its opening. However, due to the angle of straight line depth, it is difficult to capture the whole picture of the White Pagoda in the White Pagoda Temple. If you walk in from the east and west forks of the alley at the palace gate, no matter which end you enter, you can photograph the white tower from different angles in different positions. I framed the blue sky, white tower, red wall, and green cypress into the viewing window to capture the hidden Beijing atmosphere in the hutongs.
Further east, Guangji Temple, founded in the Jin Dynasty, is home to the Buddhist Association of China. Quaint and quiet, solemn and simple. The shadows of the slanted trees stacked in front of the door, telling the countless vicissitudes of the past.
Just walk and walk. As soon as the winter solstice has passed, as the poet Du Fu said, "the day after the winter solstice grows long", the day becomes longer and longer. On such days, the body is on the road, and the soul is becoming more and more plump and deep.
Original title: Pick up the old time in the street scene
Text/Hu Yan
Source/Beijing Evening News