Frida Kahlo, 1932, photographed by Kahlo's father
Appearances Can Be Deceiving
"Appearances can be deceptive"
Born in Mexico in 1907, Frida Kahlo's wardrobe was found in La Casa Azul in 2004, and her wardrobe and personal belongings are preserved in a bathroom with white tiles.
Frida Caro, 1919
The bathroom in Diego Rivera's own bedroom and Carlo's bedroom in the Blue Room remained closed for fifteen years after Rivera's death. The rooms, which were finally opened in 2004, made publicly available documents, photographs, magazines, books, drawings, personal belongings, and more critical clothing, including corsets and prosthetics worn during Carlo's illness.
"Appearances Can Be Deceptive" exhibition scene, Frida Kahlo Museum Collection
For the first time, the items are on display in the exhibition "Appearances Can Be Deceptive", with Canadian-style crutches designed for polio patients on the left, metal prosthetic legs lined with leather on the right, red leather boots embroidered with Chinese silk thread patterns, and two metal bells hanging from shoelaces.
This reminds me of the prosthetics designed by YVMIN, a brand that uses prosthetics as wearable works of art, for the disabled.
For Frida Carroll, the Tehuana traditional dress is not only an object for her to hide her physical flaws, but also a second layer of skin that blends personal style.
Brocade shirt with appliqué and hand-embroidered floral motifs, frida Kahlo Museum collection
Frida Kahlo's wardrobe consists mainly of traditional Mexican costumes from Oaxaca and the rest of the country, as well as some ethnic costumes from China, and interesting European and American shirts.
The ornaments of Tijuana costumes are usually concentrated on the upper part of the body, with chain-stitched shirts, flowers, beautifully decorated jewels, earrings, necklaces and rings that draw attention to Frida Carlo's upper body, and some believe that her preference for loose shirts and long skirts is a good way for her to cover up scars, corsets and prosthetics.
This geometric, short square structure of the shirt can make the tiny body look taller, and when she sits down, the fabric does not pull up from the waist, thus avoiding discomfort or attracting attention.
Necklace, frida Kahlo Museum collection
Frida is inspired by her feelings about the real world as a whole, and her struggle to find and defend her identity, and clothing as a tool for self-expression has helped her comfort and sense of strength.
Red leather right boots, grosgrain ribbon laces, metal bells hanging from royal blue silk velvet ribbons, circa 1952, Frida Kahlo Museum collection
Small book box containing frida Carroll and Diego Rivera photographs, embossed and two strands of hair, burgundy velvet backing
Black suede wide heels, black silk laces, Frida Kahlo Museum collection
Sunglasses, circa 1950, collection of the Frida Kahlo Museum
Spanish front necklace with aqua stone ball beads, frida Kahlo Museum collection
Sponsored by Vogue magazine, a number of international designers were invited to create skirts inspired by Frida Kahlo, which were later presented in an exhibition that "appearances can be deceptive".
What do I want feet if I have wings to fly
"If I have wings that can fly, what do I want my feet to do?"
From polio until her death, she underwent 22 surgical procedures and physical disintegration after physical disintegration.
Frida Caro 1934
The work, which was only known in 2007, depicts her own nude, wrapped in an elegant see-through dress with her broken spine and a butterfly painted on her left leg, where she once said " If I had wings that could fly, what would I do with my feet?" ”（What do I want feet if I have wings to fly）
Frida M. Carlo's father was the European photographer Guillermo Caro and his mother was Matilde Calderon, a Mexican of indigenous origin, and Carlo's identity was the result of ethnic integration.
The costumes of the indigenous peoples of Mexico, the Tijuana costumes of the Oaxaca region of southeastern Mexico, from which her mother also came, may have wanted to show class consciousness and solidarity, and her painting "Two Fridas" shows the class identity of the indigenous people in her work.
Frida Kahlo, Two Fridas, 1939 Spanish name: The Two Fridas Copper 173.5cmx173cm Collection of the Museum of Modern Art
She transformed Tijuana garments with intricate hand-embroidery (Note 2), tying her hair into braids and coiling them around her head, and as a painter, Carlo was able to "perceive the symbolic qualities of the garments, which have a metaphorical function and can be easily understood by onlookers." ”
In recent years, some projects have compared surgeons with fashion model cutters, demonstrating that the two have some commonalities in materials and techniques, such as the incisions that surgeons open and close for suturing surgery, and the pattern cutters using dead pleats, pivots, raw pleats, and picks. From this point of view, the skin in Frida Kahlo's paintings can be said to be the boundary wrapped between the body and the world, and her paintings are also closely related to fashion model cutters and designers.
Frida Kahlo between the mantle 1937 Self-Portrait Dedicated to Leon Trotsky Oil on canvas 87cmx70cm Collection of the International Museum of Women's Art
In this painting, Carlo's shawl and round skirt are typical of her outfits, and she is also a deliberately created image that she is happy to show to the audience, a close-up of a face above half of her body, a deliberate emphasis on hair ornaments, necklaces, and well-defined facial features.
Frida Kahlo Short Hair Self-Portrait with Cropped Hair Oil on Canvas 40cmx28cm Collection of the Museum of Modern Art, New York
Frida Kahlo also expresses the change of mood through the change of clothing in the painting, in "Short Hair Self-Portrait", Carlo cuts off a long hair, takes off the shawl round skirt that represents feminine charm, and instead changes into a dark and wide suit. Expressing a broken mood at any time, but also revealing a feminine masculine side.
Frida Kahlo's style of dress wrapped around her inner disability, tradition, fashion, and the construction of a complete image of Kahlo herself, which to this day remains a source of inspiration for international artists and fashion designers. For example, the recent Gangnam Cloth SS21 Summer Series is set in Mexico, inspired by the softness and hardness of Frida's personality.
Corset
"Corset"
Frida Kahlo's relationship with the corset was a support and need, but she did not use the corset as an object that defined her as a disabled person, but decorated her corset and thus became an indispensable part of her style. This also contains a spirit of resistance and rebellion.
Corset painted by Frida Kahlo, frida Kahlo Museum collection
Marxism will make the sick healthy, 1954
In this painting, she wears a skirt in Tijuana costume and is fitted with an orthopedic corset and crutches.
Many designers have drawn inspiration from Frida Kahlo's corset, a symbol of her physical fragility and an ally of her tenacity, which was borrowed into fashion clothing. Later Rei Kawakubo and Jean Paul Gautier were inspired by this.
This 2004 Jean-Paul Gautier salmon orthopedic corset called Freckles is paired with a short skirt and printed with brown freckles on flesh-colored silk ruffles. They will be fashionable and flawed, and Frida Carlo's corset is combined with an avant-garde, stylish design.
Freckles, Jean Paul Gautier, 2004, Frida Kahlo Museum Collection
Ricardo Tisi's haute couture dress for Givenchy, embellished with lace and silk satin patterns, paired with stretch-tulle flesh-colored tight jumpsuits embellished with lace appliqué embroidery and a silk ghazal jacket embroidered with hand-cut silk tassels, reinterpreted Frida Carlo's family traditions and disabilities, her tormented memories are revealed through materials and patterns, the flowers on the lace allude to tradition and are also a symbol of life and death, delicate embroidery, bare pelvic silhouette, reminiscent of Frida Kahlo. Carlo struggled with spinal pain for life. The jacket looks like wings, and the image of the pigeon's wings is repeated in Caro's own works, and in the pain of pain, it is also her desire to be able to break free of her body.
Dress, Ricardo Tissi, 2010, Frida Caro Museum Collection
concentrate:
1.La Casa Azul, the Blue House, is Carlo's private residence, built in the traditional architectural style of the Coyoacan district south of Mexico City. Carlo was born here, and finally here. In 1958, four years after her death, a museum was built here, housing some of her most famous works and preserving personal belongings.
2. Tijuana, Tijuana, Tijuana, a city on the northwestern border of Mexico.
-end-