Sun Runtian Text/Photo
Sweet and sour soft boiled carp baked noodles, also known as "boiled fish baked noodles" and "carp roasted noodles", are the historical famous dishes of Yu cuisine. Henan has the advantage of the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River, and the carp in the river is golden in all its body, which is a treasure of the past, and the Book of Poetry says: "If you eat fish, you will be the carp of the river." The "Qing Barnyard Banknote" said: "The carp of the Yellow River is very good, and Kaifeng is the most ... Sweet and tender, can be called a treasure. In the Song Dynasty, there was a saying that "hold on to and return at all costs", which can be seen in its treasure.
However, no matter how precious the raw materials are, they cannot be used for a reason, nor are they treasures. The unique production technology of grilled fish baking noodles, the soft boiling and baking sauce boiling techniques are used together, only Henan is unique, represented by Kaifeng and has been walking alone for many years, famous for live juice. The so-called live juice has always been two solutions, one is the juice of the fish, which needs to reach the level of flooding, called juice to be baked; the other is to take the dialect neutralization, living harmonic sound. Sugar, vinegar, oil three things, sweet, salty, sour three tastes, to be at high temperature, in the stirring, fully integrated, each thing has its own taste, but are not out, you have me, I have you, do not see oil, do not see sugar, do not see vinegar, sweet in the sour, sour in the salty. This juice makes the fish tender and refreshing but not greasy, the fish meat is eaten and the juice is inexhaustible, and then the juice is returned to the fire, and the delicate baked noodles are added, and the hot sauce is pastry, and the feeling of the entrance is really wonderful.
Sweet and sour soft braised carp noodles are made from a combination of boiled fish and baked noodles for more than 100 years, but both varieties have a long history. Sweet and sour soft boiled carp is evolved from the Song Dynasty's Song Dynasty's Song sister-in-law fish soup and fried fish, known as vinegar fish in the Jin Yuan Period, called vinegar fish in the Ming Dynasty, and adopted the technique of "soft boiling" and "baking sauce" at the end of the Qing Dynasty, which was originally called sweet and sour soft boiled carp.
Baked noodles are also known as "dragon's whisker noodles". According to the Records of Dreams, during the Ming and Qing dynasties, the kaifeng people said that the second day of the second month of the lunar calendar every year was "the head of the dragon", and on this day, the dignitaries and dignitaries of the city and the townspeople gave each other gifts with dragon's whiskers (thin noodles) to show their auspiciousness. The dragon's whisker noodles were originally boiled and eaten in a marinade. In the twenty-seventh year of the Qing Dynasty (1901 AD), Xin Ugly returned to Luang, and Cixi and Guangxu returned to Beijing, stationed in Kaifeng for more than a month. On the tenth day of the tenth month of the tenth lunar calendar, coinciding with Cixi's 66th birthday, in order to please her and wish her a happy birthday, the Kaifeng Inspector Yamen paired the dragon's whisker noodles with the fish and changed it to baking, which was originally called baked noodles. In the 1930s, Su Yongxiu and others, another famous chef of the new restaurant, switched to using wonton skin to cut into thin wires and fry them in oil. Later, it was improved with noodle drawing, which was as thin as hair, and was still called baked noodles.
On the day of the birthday, Cixi ate sweet and sour soft boiled carp roasted noodles and praised it, saying that "I will never return after the meal"; the Guangxu Emperor also praised it as "a delicacy in the ancient capital", and the eunuch who carried him also wrote a banner that reads "Where there is the fish, the ancient Prefecture of the Central Plains" and gave it to the Kaifeng Fuya.
This dish is also eaten in a way that eats fish first and then dips the noodles in sauce. It is said to "eat dragon meat first, then eat dragon whiskers". Later, simply put the "baked" noodles directly on the fish, like a koi scale quilt, so the common people called "carp baked noodles" as "carp noodles" according to their sounds. In the early 1970s, Nixon ate this dish during a tour of China. Asking for the name of its dish, the translator translated it as "carp cover quilt", which is also quite satisfactory.
Another new is a century-old shop that enjoys the reputation of "China's time-honored brand", is the birthplace of Yu cuisine, many Yu cuisine masters are from here (Hou Ruixuan, the former chief chef of the Diaoyutai State Guesthouse in Beijing, is one of them), "carp baked noodles" is its "home dish", so it is called authentic, when it is both reasonable and reasonable.
In February 2000, another new sweet and sour soft boiled carp noodles were recognized as "Chinese Famous Dishes" by the State Administration of Domestic Trade, and won the gold medal in the first China Food Festival Famous Dishes Competition in November 2000. In November 2007, Henan Provincial Bureau of Quality and Technical Supervision, Henan Provincial Department of Commerce, Henan Catering Industry Association and other departments for the first time released sweet and sour soft boiled carp baked noodles as the first of the "Top Ten Famous Dishes in Henan".
On February 6, 2007, Kaifeng's new sweet and sour soft boiled carp noodles were rated as the first batch of intangible cultural heritage in Henan Province. In June 2008, another new chef, He Jinhua, was named as the representative inheritor of the first batch of provincial intangible cultural heritage projects in Henan Province (Kaifeng another new and time-honored brand).
Sweet and sour soft boiled carp baked noodles production flow chart (brief)
Chef: He Jinhua
1. Raw Yellow River carp
2. Descale and dissolve the fish
3: Remove from the pot
4. Frying
5. Simmering
6. Sweet and sour carp finished products
7. And noodles
8. Knead the dough
9. Roll the noodles
10. Ramen noodles
11. Baking
12. Finished baked noodles
13. Sweet and sour soft boiled carp baked noodles
Photo courtesy of: Kaifeng Intangible Cultural Heritage Protection Center, Kaifeng Food Culture Museum, Kaifeng City Another New Hotel
Sun Runtian, the lord of the Wuwei Zhai. Gengyin was born in Kaifeng, the "old third" Zhiqing. Sun Runtian has compiled and published 10 food culture monographs of more than 2 million words, and also participated in the compilation of the Encyclopedia of Chinese Cuisine and Chinese Yu Cuisine. Sun Runtian devoted himself to the research and publicity of food culture, known as the "heir and living dictionary of Kaifeng food culture", and has been successively rated as the top professional and technical talents of Kaifeng City, the leader of scientific and technological rejuvenation, the outstanding young social science academic backbone, the municipal outstanding CPPCC member, the first municipal figure, the municipal labor model, the representative inheritor of the municipal intangible cultural heritage "Kaifeng Tang Xiangtang Culture", won the Henan Provincial Catering Culture Outstanding Contribution Award, outstanding catering person in central China, etc. CCTV set of large-scale humanistic food series program "China Xiaoguan" "Keep the Most Kaifeng" specially invited planning, "China on the Tip of the Tongue 2" food consultant, Kaifeng Food Culture Museum Director.
(Editor: Liu Haiyong)
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