"The New Language of the World" is a strange book born in Nanjing, with more than 1,000 short stories in the whole book, and between three words and two words, the Way is full of Wei and Jin. But also because of its conciseness, posterity often has a feeling of itching in the boots when reading. For example, the costumes of the Six Dynasties mentioned in the book are often mentioned in a brush, and the reader only knows about it, but he cannot appreciate the beauty of the Fashion of the Six Dynasties.
Huang Qiang, an expert in the history of nanjing costumes, recently published the book "The Bandwidth of the Six Dynasties", which examines and explains the costumes mentioned in the "World Speaks New Language", which allows us to better understand the demeanor of Wei and Jin, and also helps us better understand the small stories that happened to these six dynasties. Starting today, "Micro-History" has set up a column entitled "The Wardrobe of the Six Dynasties", inviting Huang Qiang to interpret the costumes in "The New Language of the World" and the stories behind these costumes. In the first issue, we tell the story of the son of Shantao and the beanie.

Shantao Tang Sun Wei painting
Shan Tao was one of the core figures of the "Seven Sages of the Bamboo Forest" in the Wei and Jin dynasties, and appeared many times in the "New Language of the World". Today we are telling the story of his son.
"The World Speaks New Language, Fangzheng": Shan Gong Da'er wrote a short bow (qià), leaning in the car. Emperor Wu wanted to see it, but Shan Gong did not dare to resign, asked Er, and refused to do it. The theory of time is the victory of the clouds over the mountain.
This sentence translates to this: ShanTao's eldest son, Shan, should wear a bean hat and casually lean in the car. Sima Yan wanted to see him. Shan Tao did not dare to resign, asking whether the mountain should go or not, and the mountain should refuse. At that time, people commented that Shande's temperament was better than That of Shantao.
At first reading, I feel inexplicable. The Qing Dynasty scholar Yu Jiaxi gave an explanation, saying that Shan should wear a top hat on this day, and if he went to see the emperor, it was inconsistent with the etiquette system, so he refused. "帢" even the meaning of the hat.
So how casual can this poop hat be, and even the emperor will not go to see it? Huang Qiang, an expert in the history of clothing, once made some research on this, and he told reporters that "帢", also made of scarf clips, the spire has no eaves, and the camel puller in the tomb of Wei Jin No. 6 in Jiayuguan has the image of wearing a "curtain".
The camel puller wears a "veil".
According to Huang Qiang, 帢, created by The Weiwu Emperor Cao Cao in the army, "made of five colored veils, to show the aspect (referring to the army side)" also. So, why did Cao Cao create the "帢"? This is because he saw that "the world is fierce and the wealth is scarce", so he "imitates the ancient leather and cuts the silk as a shame, and conforms to the meaning of simplicity at any time, and distinguishes the noble from the lowly". To put it bluntly, compared with the previous hat, the hat is more economical and more convenient to wear.
Huang Qiang said that this poo hat has a characteristic, it is consistent, so in order to distinguish between the front and back, in front of the hat, a horizontal seam, the name is Yan Shuai. However, more than 100 years later, during the Yongjia period, the horizontal slit between the front and back of this distinction was gone, and at this time it was called "faceless".
Don't underestimate this hat slit, in the eyes of jin people, it is a huge gap between conservative and fashionable. Wang Tanzhi, a major minister of the Eastern Jin Dynasty, once fought against Huan Wen with Xie An, but he was conservative in his thinking, and for this, the high-ranking monk Zhi Daolin was very unhappy, and in a meeting and exchange between the two of them, Zhi Daolin used Wang Tanzhi's dress to say very harshly, you wear greasy and greasy "Yan Shuai", wear a cloth single coat, carry the "Zuo Zhuan", and run behind the car of the Confucian scholar Zheng Kangcheng, which is really decaying. Here, "Yan Wei" is the representative of the old, backward and unpretentious.
Speaking of Shantao's son, is he really not seeing Sima Yan because he is wearing a bean hat?
Of course not.
After all, "The New Language of the World" is a zhiren novel, and if we look through the history books, we will find that the original face of this story is not like this. In the Book of Jin, Shantao had five sons: Shancai, Shanchun, Shanyun, Shanmu, and Shanjian. Among them, Shan Jun and Shan Yunxiao both suffered from embarrassing paralysis, resulting in short body shape. Paralysis is a rheumatoid arthritis disease.
Although Shan Chun and Shan Yun were short in stature, they were very intelligent, and because of this, Sima Yan heard about it and wanted to receive them. Shan Tao did not refuse and went to seek Shan Yun's opinion. Shan Yun resolutely refused.
It can be seen that "The New Language of the World" is Zhang Guanli Dai, who misremembered the protagonist of this story.
Rong Qi period and bamboo forest seven sages brick carving
Then, after Shan Yun rejected Sima Yan, why did the people of the time comment that his temperament was better than that of Shan Tao?
This is because Shan Tao did not refuse Sima Yan's request, while Shan Yun had an attitude of "I am in charge of my affairs", even in the face of the emperor's request, he had to refuse. Therefore, shi people said that his temperament was better than that of Shantao. This had nothing to do with wearing a beanie or not, perhaps he used it as an excuse to refuse to meet at the time.
This story of "The New Language of the World" is praising Shan yun, but as the opposite, Shan Tao is more or less degraded. In fact, although he was listed with Ji Kang and Ruan Yuan, Shan Tao was an active member of the WTO, he was good at old Zhuang theory, but in his bones he believed in Confucianism. When Shan Tao was poor, he had the ambition to help the world at the same time, and he once said to his wife that he would be crowned the third duke in the future.
There is another thing that can be seen in reference with Shan Yun's refusal to see Sima Yan: Yuan Yi, a native of Chen County, was greedy and defiled, and bribed the secretary of state to seek praise. He once gave Shantao a hundred pounds of silk, and Shantao did not want to be different from others, so he accepted it and hid it in the attic. Later, when Yuan Yi's case occurred, Shantao took out the silk and handed it over to the public, the silk was full of dust, and the seal was not moved.
This is Shantao's style of doing things for people. Therefore, as an accede to the WTO, Shantao did not refuse Sima Yan's request, and there was no need to be degraded by secular standards.
In addition, when everyone mentions Shantao, most of them think of ji Kang's letter of renunciation written to him. At that time, Shan Tao wanted to recommend Ji Kang to take over his official position in order to ease Ji Kang's relationship with Sima Shi. But he did not take into account that Ji Kang had his political ideals (Ji Kang strongly opposed Sima Shi).
Although Ji Kang wrote a letter of renunciation, he still had a sense of confidant for Shantao. Later, before being framed by Zhong Hui and dying, he said to his son Ji Shao: "With The Giant Source (Shantao Character) present, you will not be lonely and alone." Shan Tao did not live up to Ji Kang's trust in the orphan on his deathbed, took good care of Ji Shao, and recommended him to come out as an official.
The last thing to say is that Shan Tao was an official Qingzheng, and after his death, there were only ten rooms in the old mansion, but there were many descendants, and they could not live in it, or Sima Yan expanded the mansion for his family and solved the problem of living.
Yangzi Evening News/Purple Cow News reporter Zang Lei
Source: Purple Cow News