Large knife back to the pot meat
In the various Sichuan recipes of the 1970s and 1980s, the chief dish of the pork dish at the beginning was often "back to the pot meat". This popular dish with a strong local flavor originated from a folk festival, where cooked meat is used to worship the ancestors, and then the meat is taken home and seasoned and stir-fried.
(The picture in the article comes from the Internet)
It is said that before the founding of New China, apprentices in Chengdu helped their bosses, and only twice a month did they beat the tooth sacrifice twice in the second and sixteenth days of the first year, and after playing the seventy-two tooth sacrifices in three years, they were considered full. And these seventy-two "tooth sacrifices" cannot be separated from the "back to the pot meat". Today, hui pot meat is still one of the addictive fatty meats that the majority of working people like.
However, nowadays, the people of the whole country eat the pot meat, and the right taste is almost difficult to see, which is from the more authoritative "Chinese Recipes · Sichuan (China Finance and Economics Publishing House, 1981 edition) can be seen: First, the back pot meat is made of pork hind leg meat with skin, rather than the current pork belly; second, the ratio of Pixian watercress to sweet noodle sauce (some back pot meat does not add sweet noodle sauce at all) is 5:4 (according to the taste can also be adjusted to 1:1); third, the "red soy sauce" made of caramel, sugar color, fine salt, spices is used (now the back pot meat is almost not put); fourth, when frying the back pot meat slices, it is cooked lard instead of salad oil.
In Sichuan, there are many forms of Hui pot meat, there are dozens of kinds, the cooking method is basically the same, but the side dishes are different, there are also special and self-contained "Lin Pai Hui Pot Meat" (named after the surname of Lin Sijin, a modern Scholar and Calligrapher in Sichuan). "Back to the pot meat" in Chengdu also known as "boiling pot meat", its cousin "dry steamed back to the pot meat", the main ingredient does not take the soup to cook but use dry steaming, cooking without frying but with the method of sticking into the dish. Therefore, the original taste of meat disappears less, the color is red and bright, rich in fat, and the flavor is strong and fragrant; his cousin "raw fried salt fried meat" is directly stir-fried with raw meat slices, adding tempeh without adding sweet noodle sauce; his cousin "sauce fried meat" takes out the watercress in the seasoning and aggravates the sweet noodle sauce; his brother-in-law's old watch also includes: green pepper back pot meat, salt vegetable back pot meat, lotus white back pot meat, tempeh back pot meat, sea pepper back pot meat, etc.
When I was eight years old, I began to learn from my mother to stir-fry the pot meat, but my mother put more sweet noodle sauce than watercress sauce (about a 3:2 ratio) and added pickled pepper, pickled ginger, and mash sauce (without sugar). In particular, the taste of sauce and the way of kimchi are deeply integrated with each other in the heat, and the strange fragrance that floats with the soul can only be possessed by the pot meat in love.
Here, I would like to solemnly introduce the country cousin who returned to the pot meat, "big knife back to the pot meat". When I first heard the name "big knife back to the pot meat", I immediately thought of the picture and melody of "the big knife cut to the heads of the devils", followed by a large piece of back pot meat roaring, shining to the open appetite of the people.
The ID card of "Big Knife Back Pot Meat" is called "Lianshan Back Pot Meat", which is named after the town of Lianshan near Guanghan City, Sichuan. In the early 1990s, this humble town was famous for cooking an extra-large pot meat dish in a restaurant, and because the slices of back pot meat were dangling like a big knife, it got the name of "big knife back to pot meat".
(Beijing Nanxincang Tianxia Salt Restaurant)
"Big knife back to the pot meat" selects the two knives of the pig's hind legs, slices along the length, and each piece of the elder can reach about 24 cm. Its rough and bold shape, exquisite and sharp knife technique, coupled with its ingredients and the general back pot meat is different, so that it attracts guests from all over the country to lick the taste on the "big knife", so that the whole Town of Lianshan is full of the spicy taste of the back pot meat all year round. It's really "on the mountain, down the mountain,
The wind shows pieces back to the pot of meat like a picture."
The poet Yang Li is a lover of "back to the pot meat". In the 1980s, Yang Li entertained a large number of wandering poets from all over the country with the "Yang's Hui Pot Meat" and "Yang's Braised Pork" cooked by himself in Chengdu's Xin'er Village. At a recent dinner party, he told me that the use of garlic seedlings for stir-frying is the most authentic, and using green peppers or other ingredients is a fake return to the pot meat.
The Mang Han poet Liang Le could not see the return pot meat to the table, originally everyone was drinking wine and talking, but as long as a plate of steaming back pot meat was on the table, he immediately put down the "wine bag" with a bright eye, made a "rice bag", and shouted at the waiter to bring rice. Wait for a bowl of white rice to go down, a full burp, all thoughts are gray, and the wine can't be drunk.
In the recipe of "Serial Painting of Food Painting" in Nanxincang Tianxia Salt in Beijing, I describe the "traditional back pot meat" in this way: traditional back pot meat = 60s and 70s back pot meat, one of the traditional Chinese studies in Sichuan cuisine. In the horizontal and vertical strokes of garlic seedlings and green peppers, the square meat is thick and oily, and the taste is long-lasting in the scene where the stir-fried watercress and sweet noodle sauce overlap.
The sauce bursts back into the pot of meat
1. Take a pound and a half of pork hind leg meat, burn a red pot to simmer the skin, and then soak and scrape the skin of the meat in warm water to turn golden.
2. Add water to the pot and cook for about 15 minutes (add ginger slices, cooking wine, peppercorns) and cut the fat and lean slices.
3. Put the wok on medium heat, when the cooking oil is 50% hot, put the slices of meat into the stir-fry, sprinkle a little salt and fry until the oil is spitting, stir-fry the mash juice and pickled ginger and pepper to make the aroma, and then put it on the side of the pot.
4. After the watercress, yellow sauce and sweet noodle sauce are fried, stir-fry evenly with the meat slices, and then add the garlic seedlings to the table.
(Ermao new work)