laitimes

Coffee Champion Decryption: Vienna No Viennese Coffee Even specialty coffee is rare

author:Curry comments

Click Follow | Daily specialty coffee culture magazine coffee workshop

"If I'm not in the café, I'm on my way to the café." (wenn der altenberg nicht im kaffeehaus ist, ist er am weg dorthin)

This is a famous quote of the Austrian poet and prose writer Peter Altenberg, who even changed his e-mail address to the most frequently visited café central; to this day, there is a statue of Mr. Aydenberg with two thick beards sitting in the seat where he used to sit, so it is not difficult to imagine the role played by the locals in the minds of the locals. It's no wonder that Viennese call the café the "second living room."

Coffee Champion Decryption: Vienna No Viennese Coffee Even specialty coffee is rare

As early as early 2012, Vienna café culture was included in UNESCO's World Intangible Cultural Heritage'; Vienna's traditional cafes, each full of Renaissance atmosphere, each beautiful as if hanging in a gallery of a painting, each playing classical music with excellent sound quality, I don't know if Vienna's traditional café is specially designed, whenever you sit in it and sip coffee, you will feel that you are carrying a cup of coffee into the concert hall, their soundstage effect is great, not to lose the music capital, people feel temperamental.

Coffee Champion Decryption: Vienna No Viennese Coffee Even specialty coffee is rare

In traditional Viennese cafes, it is common to see a person sitting alone at a coffee table. Someone is reading a book, someone is reading a newspaper, someone is playing on the computer, even if you stay all day, even if there are many tourists queuing outside, the waiters in the café will never drive people away, and will always serve you a cup of boiled water after a period of time, which means: we welcome you to stay, because this is a century-old tradition of Viennese cafés.

However, Viennese pride themselves on "café culture" rather than "coffee", and if you're picky about coffee, you're probably disappointed by the fabled level of Viennese coffee.

Reinhard Grebien, who has won the Austrian barista championship three times, explained that coffee has been bitter and unpalatable since the Turks brought to Austria in the seventeenth century, and must be added milk and sugar to enter, so Viennese coffee is built on the change of "coffee" and "milk", and the café can conjure up more than a dozen kinds of coffee by using a blended bean (as shown below).

Coffee Champion Decryption: Vienna No Viennese Coffee Even specialty coffee is rare

The logic of talking about a single variety, no milk and sugar, is very different from the logic of the third wave of coffee revolution. In addition, many old cafes are accustomed to using free coffee facilities provided by big brands, or considering the increase in rents, and the one-time consumption of tourists is overcrowded, there is no reason to replace them with specialty coffee beans.

If you're in a Viennese café and say to the waiter, "I want Viennese coffee." "I'm sorry! You'll never be able to drink it, because there's no such word for "Viennese coffee" on Viennese coffee menus, and if there is, it's just lying to tourists!

Coffee Champion Decryption: Vienna No Viennese Coffee Even specialty coffee is rare

coffee blend

However, if not, it is not entirely true, because the classic Viennese coffee that the Viennese locals think refers to hot coffee and hot milk in half, plus the milk foam of the melange, many Viennese mornings start with a cup of melange; but if it is the Viennese coffee that is closest to everyone's impression, in Vienna the local point einspanner (Eisbanner), is served in a glass with a handle, To add whipped cream and powdered sugar to the coffee.

Coffee Champion Decryption: Vienna No Viennese Coffee Even specialty coffee is rare

einspänner coffee

But combined with the above coffee taste, it is not difficult to find that although there are many coffee items offered in Viennese cafes, I have heard that there are more than forty kinds, but the local mainstream coffee drinking method is to add sugar, add milk, add wine... Fancy coffee with multiple flavors, rather than a single variety and origin of coffee beans.

"The advantage of historical celebrities, combined with the pilgrimage of tourists, also makes Viennese proud of their traditional cafés." But this pride has made the promotion of the concept of specialty coffee, the mainstream of today's coffee, a big obstacle in Vienna.

Read on