<b>Wen | Xiao Xiao</b>
Autumn wind rises, mackerel fat. The taste buds are always connected to memory.
When I was a child, my father always liked to take me on a bicycle to visit relatives and friends. His "Big Golden Deer" brand bike was buzzing all the way, and I was singing all the way. I remember that one year when the autumn wind was blowing, he rode a car for an hour to take me to Uncle Wei Bin's house as a guest. Uncle Wei Bin's family is by the sea, the village is not large, but surrounded by the sea on all sides, it is a common small fishing village in Jiaodong. Before anyone entered the village, the salty and wet sea breeze had come to welcome us on behalf of Uncle Wei Bin. Facing the sea breeze, the fishing village path intertwined with clam skins and fishing nets was bumpy and narrow, and my father had to come down and push it. It took about 10 minutes to see an abandoned fishing boat in the distance before entering the village.
It was nearly noon, and Uncle Wei Bin had already laid out a full table of fishermen's banquets at home. It wasn't plates that filled the food, it was all more than ten inches of sea bowls. A big bowl of braised kagi fish, a big bowl of sea hare stir-fried leeks, a big bowl of steamed prawns, a big bowl of ginger conch, a big bowl of braised crabs, a big bowl of garlic scallops... It was the first time I had eaten a seafood feast, and I could eat it with an open belly, with only one "fresh" word in my nose. The taste is so fresh that when the mackerel dumplings were served as the staple food of the finale, although it was 80% full, I still ate a plate of dumplings like a cloud. Uncle Wei Bin said that the mackerel was picked up by his fishing boat early in the morning, and the leeks were cut from his garden. Mackerel dumplings focus on fresh fish and leeks, and the combination of the two is delicious. Therefore, the rich smell of mackerel left on the tip of the tongue still makes me miss it.
There is a saying in Jiaodong folklore that "comfortable but lying down, delicious but dumplings", which shows the status of dumplings in the life of Jiaodong people. In the dumpling family, mackerel dumplings are the most important. The Penglai people call dumplings "steamed buns", if you look through the modern Chinese dictionary, there is no such word in it, there is a similar word called "steamed buns". The term "steamed bread" is interpreted as "a noodle food in ancient times." However, this word has been rarely used in daily life, and it is estimated that few people know what the dumpling looks like. But the approach described in the book is more complicated than that of dumplings and wontons: first cut out the boxy dough, hold it in your hand, put the meat filling in, fold diagonally, pinch the edges tightly, shaped like an isosceles right triangle, and then close the two sharp corners of the triangle together, stack and pinch, the finished product is like a flower bone, and then fried in a frying pan, strung together with bamboo skewers, which is the dumpling.
"Shandong Folklore and Daily Food" once recorded a kind of mackerel stuffed steamed buns: "Big fish dumplings, take fresh shore mackerel, slice meat, chop or cut into filling, less salt, slightly add leeks, oil, wrapped into dumplings, as big as a child's fist, cooked, each bowl only holds two, medium rice, six or seven are full, eat very smoothly." "Secretly guess, this should be the original version of mackerel dumplings."
As a native of Penglai, although he has left his hometown for 20 years, he still thinks that Penglai's mackerel dumplings are the best. The secret of delicious food is the four words "fresh and good". Mackerel is from the harbor pier at five or six o'clock in the morning, the body of the fish is smooth and shiny, fresh enough to bleed as soon as it breaks the chamber, how can it not be fresh? Modulate the mackerel dumpling filling, "stirring" force is the Tao, fresh mackerel to stab after chopping into a puree, mix a little pork belly filling, add egg white, peanut oil, leek minced, need to use chopsticks to stir in one direction, the middle can not change direction, in one go. A plate of qualified mackerel dumplings, with a thin skin and a large filling, the filling is powerful, and the taste is delicious.
In Jiaodong, eating mackerel dumplings is also a bit exquisite. The fisherman's extensive way of eating is a mouthful of dumplings and a bite of garlic cloves, not for refinement, but for the feeling of being in full swing. The general family eating rule is to mix the bowl juice: vinegar, very fresh, sesame oil and ginger, garlic into ginger juice and garlic juice respectively. Take a bite of a thin-skinned and juicy dumpling while it is hot, the juice is fragrant and fragrant, and then dip in a little favorite bowl of juice inlet, the sourness of vinegar, the spice of leeks, and the soft glutinousness of pork belly instantly blend perfectly in the mouth.
After coming to Beijing to work, a person often eats tastelessly and misses his hometown on the tip of his tongue. When the day is cold, the heart is on the mackerel dumplings. Why must it be dumplings? Mo Yan said in just a few words in "Dumpling Song": Dumplings, dumplings, your beautiful and smooth lines, your smooth and white skin, your various tolerances, your strange tastes, your heroism in going to the soup, your selfless dedication, whenever I think of your name, I feel that life is full of hope.
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