Chongqing Daily all-media Chen Weideng
Sansheng has the honor of leveling the lake rim, a tail of wind and dust to grill fish. ”
Wanzhou grilled fish is now an intangible cultural heritage project at the wanzhou district level.
It combines modern people's eating habits and modern cooking techniques, adopts the unique technique of first marinating and then roasting and then stewing, takes the essence of traditional Sichuan cuisine and Chongqing hot pot, and concocts dozens of different flavors such as spicy, sauce, spicy, tempeh, etc. While eating, simmer continuously over low heat, the aroma is strong, spicy but not dry. This unique cooking technique is self-contained, popular throughout the country, and has gradually become the "golden signboard" of Wanzhou's catering industry.
Wanzhou is also known as the "hometown of Grilled Fish in China".
"According to research, the wanzhou grilled fish making technology originated in the first year of the Southern Song Dynasty (that is, 1277), which has a history of more than 700 years." Liu Xia, deputy secretary-general of the Wanzhou Grilled Fish Industry Association, introduced that as a local specialty cuisine, the inheritance and development of Wanzhou grilled fish has been developed so far, not only the vast majority of cities above the county level in the country have Wanzhou grilled fish shops opened for business, Wanzhou grilled fish has also gone abroad and operated in the United States, France, Germany, Singapore and other countries and regions.
▲Tourists taste Wanzhou grilled fish in Wanzhou Grilled Fish City. Photo by correspondent Ran Mengjun
A grilled fish Spicy and fragrant annual output value of 12 billion yuan
Liu Xia introduced that since the Southern Song Dynasty, the grilling method of Wanzhou grilled fish has gone through five stages: wood fire roasting, plant leaf wrapping roasting, charcoal fire roasting, charcoal oven roasting and electric oven roasting.
So, how did Wanzhou grilled fish originate?
Liu Xia introduced that according to legend, in the first year of the Southern Song Dynasty, the Yuan army invaded, conquered all the cities in the Central Plains, and fought all the way to the east of Sichuan, which was like a broken bamboo, but when it hit the Tianzi City in Wanzhou, it could not be attacked for a long time, so it had to besiege the Tianzi City.
Over time, the city interrupted the grain. At that time, shangguan kui, the chief soldier of Tianzi City, and his son Shangguan Mingjie led his soldiers to open a secret passage in the back mountain and sent people to the Ramie River to get water. There was a guy named Jiang Shang, who had excellent water quality, took the opportunity to go down to the river to fish and set up a fire barbecue on the shore, and then sprinkled salt on the fish, while grilling and sprinkling, suddenly felt the smell of strange smell. Subsequently, the soldiers followed Jiang Shang's example and went down the river to touch the fish to grill.
After a long siege of the city, the defenders often fished through the dark passage under the Ramie River, brought back to Tianzi City to make grilled fish, sprinkled with ingredients while grilling, and made grilled fish of various flavors, and the techniques of grilling fish became more and more skilled.
Although the city was later destroyed, grilled fish has been passed down since then and has become the origin of Grilled Fish in Wanzhou.
In the 1980s and 1990s, more and more consumers ate grilled fish, more and more shops operated grilled fish, and the cooking techniques of grilled fish were also diverse, but the basic process of cooking grilled fish remained roughly unchanged.
▲ Wanzhou grilled fish correspondent Ran Mengjun photo
Nowadays, some merchants represented by wanzhou brother-in-law's mother and son grilled fish have adopted automatic machines to grill fish, directly hang the fish, automatically flip, no charcoal ash, no fumes, not only do not have to worry about the fish being grilled paste, grilled black, but also more environmentally friendly and healthy. Lan Guifang, the owner of the brother-in-law's mother-in-law's grilled fish, introduced, "When grilling fish, the temperature is controlled at 500 ° C -600 ° C, the fish body is heated more evenly, and the skin is crispy and tender; After the grilled fish is served, the electric stove is used to control the constant temperature, which is always maintained between 70 ° C and 80 ° C, and is automatically heated below this temperature and automatically extinguished above this temperature. ”
▲ Wanzhou grilled fish business household charcoal fire converter grilled fish. Photo by reporter Chen Weideng
Not only that, in recent years, under the guidance of Wu Chaozhu, Feng Wanming and other cooking masters, a number of grilled fish famous shops such as "Little Brother-in-law Mother and Son Grilled Fish" and "Yu Tail Grilled Fish" have actively carried out the research and development of grilled fish cooking techniques, integrating original barbecue and modern technology, with unique and self-contained systems, and their grilled fish set pickling, grilling and stewing three cooking methods in one; Bold innovations have also been made in the selection of fish materials, from grilled crucian carp, carp, and grass carp to grilled mullet, shell fish, marine fish, deep-sea fish, etc., enriching the types of fish used for grilled fish.
"According to incomplete statistics, in 2020, the annual output value of the grilled fish industry in the whole region will reach 12 billion yuan." Liu Xia introduced that the output value of raw and auxiliary material planting and aquaculture industry is 5 billion yuan, and the processing of finished seasoning ingredients and grilled fish catering services reach 7 billion yuan.
An industrial chain connects more than 20 agricultural production and processing bases
During the summer solstice, under the Yuejun Mountain, the continuous peppercorn base in Chuanxing Village, a water town in Wanzhou District, has entered the picking season.
"In recent years, Wanzhou grilled fish has been selling well, and the demand for raw materials such as peppercorns and peppers has been large, so I came back to establish the 'Wanyeshan Peppercorns Professional Cooperative'." Xu Diwan, head of the cooperative, introduced that his cooperative grows more than 700 acres of peppercorns and produces more than 200,000 catties of flower peppers per year, most of which are sold to large and small merchants of the Wanzhou Catering Association.
Because of this, Xu Diwan's pepper base has also been identified by the Wanzhou Grilled Fish Industry Association as the planting base of the Wanzhou Grilled Fish Industry.
In Guocun Town, Wanzhou District, Chongqing Wanzhou District Xinghai Agricultural Development Co., Ltd. transferred 2500 acres of land, using the advantages of local water resources, built an aquaculture base of 300 acres, of which 150 acres of freshwater fish, 70 acres of high-yield flowing water fish, 30 acres of turtle bullfrog, 20 acres of rare species of fish, 30 acres of ornamental fish, the annual output value of aquaculture reached 20 million yuan, more than 100 villagers worked in the base, to achieve increased income and poverty alleviation. In January 2018, the Wanzhou Grilled Fish Association identified the Mingyue Lake Aquaculture Base as the production base of raw materials for Grilled Fish in Wanzhou.
Liu Xia introduced that in 2018, the China Cuisine Association awarded Wanzhou the "Hometown of Chinese Grilled Fish". "Wanzhou makes a fuss about grilled fish, improves the base, builds an industrial chain, formulates grilled fish industry standards, and lets grilled fish string together large and small agricultural industry bases in Wanzhou."
In recent years, Wanzhou has vigorously implemented the "Grilled Fish Industry Chain Extension Plan", accelerated the construction of high-standard farmland, improved the integrity rate of water conservancy projects, increased the construction of vegetable bases, and improved the processing and production capacity of agricultural products, and achieved significant economic and social benefits.
Wanzhou seized the opportunity of greatly increasing the area of aquaculture waters, making full use of the river reservoir to vigorously develop ecological and recreational fisheries, and the total annual fish production reached 52 million catties; The planting area of vegetables in the whole region is 712,000 mu, with an output of 1.105 million tons, of which 315,000 mu are planted with condiments such as squeezed vegetables, peppers, peppers, mountain peppers, ginger, green onions, garlic and other condiments, with an output of 596,000 tons; Wanzhou also focuses on cultivating grilled fish condiment processing enterprises, cultivating 15 leading processing enterprises such as pepper oil, grilled fish seasoning, spicy freshness, pickled pepper, pickled greens, pickled radish, pickled cowpeas, pickled greens, pickled ginger, squeezed vegetables, condiments, etc., with an annual output value of 1.41 billion yuan.
Up to now, Wanzhou has developed 11 breeding bases for the grilled fish industry, 10 planting bases for the grilled fish industry, and 6 food processing bases for the grilled fish industry, providing sufficient raw and auxiliary ingredient resources for the development of the grilled fish industry in Wanzhou.
▲Wanzhou Fenshui Wanyeshan Peppercorn Base is one of the planting bases of Wanzhou Grilled Fish Industry, and the picture shows that the staff is carrying out the initial processing of peppercorns. Photo by reporter Chen Weideng
Not only that, Wanzhou also made grilled fish into gifts and launched the Wanzhou grilled fish souvenir.
"I remember a few years ago, after a tourist from out of town ate grilled fish, he wanted to send the grilled fish back to his hometown." Lan Guifang recalled, but limited by the technical conditions at that time, she could only regret giving up. Today, Xu Zhongyuan's Jiang laihao (Chongqing) Food Co., Ltd. has turned the tourist's idea into reality.
"At that time, it took a lot of energy to go to all parts of the country to consult with teachers, and the problems were finally solved one by one." Through multi-party learning, Xu Zhongyuan overcame the difficulties of product room temperature preservation and other difficulties, and cooperated with well-known food manufacturers, after countless times of repeated debugging, finally at the end of 2019, launched the exquisite packaging of "Jiang LaiHao" gift grilled fish.
This grilled fish, which was designed as a gift for the first time, has a shelf life of up to 6 months at room temperature, which is convenient and fast, and can be eaten immediately after opening the box. Once launched, a dealer in Chengdu ordered 5,000 boxes at a time, the channels in Beijing, Guangzhou and Shanghai have gradually opened, and the merchants who take the initiative to ask for goods are endless, and several major e-commerce platforms have also come to discuss cooperation.
Liu Xia introduced that in recent years, Wanzhou has vigorously innovated and developed Wanzhou grilled fish pre-packaged food, boldly made breakthroughs and innovations on the basis of traditional skills, used advanced technology and unique technology to develop Wanzhou grilled fish pre-packaged food that is convenient and fast, with high taste reduction and strong sense of experience, and encouraged Chongqing Hailai Food Co., Ltd., Chongqing Yufu Food Co., Ltd. and other Wanzhou grilled fish pre-packaged food production enterprises to develop and produce, and bring Wanzhou grilled fish to all parts of the country more quickly.
A brand bigger and stronger to help economic and social development
On the one hand, Wanzhou Grilled Fish has established an industrial base and developed grilled fish souvenirs through the "Grilled Fish Industry Chain Extension Plan", on the other hand, it has expanded its brand influence through industry self-discipline and strengthening marketing.
To this end, Wanzhou has successively issued industry norms such as "Yucai Wanzhou Grilled Fish Cooking Technical Specification" and "Chongqing Wanzhou District Grilled Fish Business Code of Conduct (Trial)", and established the Wanzhou Grilled Fish Association, established and improved the Wanzhou Grilled Fish Integrity Management System, implemented credit classification management, guided practitioners to operate according to law, pay taxes according to law, and submit statistical information according to law, and promoted the healthy, orderly and standardized development of Wanzhou grilled fish.
"We regularly convene all member units to commit to honest management, fair competition, and create a safe dining environment for consumers." Liu Xia introduced that the registration of the geographical indication of "Wanzhou Grilled Fish" is being promoted, and all merchants who meet the industry specifications can use it free of charge in the future. Many grilled fish shops in Wanzhou have different tastes due to different chefs, and the purpose of introducing the grilled fish business action specifications is to promote development, make catering enterprises more standardized, strengthen and expand the Wanzhou grilled fish brand, and provide technical support for Wanzhou grilled fish to the whole country and the world.
Not only that, in recent years, Wanzhou has continued to strengthen the promotion of Wanzhou grilled fish: in 2011, Wanzhou grilled fish was reported by CCTV's "Happy China Tour • Charm Chongqing Wanzhou Chapter"; In 2017, Wanzhou grilled fish was reported by the Central People's Radio and the Taiwan variety show "Searching for The Strangeness of the Mainland"; In 2017, the micro-film "A Tail of Wind and Dust" with the theme of Wanzhou grilled fish was awarded the "Focus on China" exhibition at the 74th Venice Film Festival in Italy; Wanzhou also actively organizes grilled fish processing enterprises to participate in the National Sugar and Wine Expo, Guangzhou International Food and Ingredients Exhibition, "Western Fair" and other exhibition activities by actively holding festivals such as Wanzhou Food Festival, Wanzhou Grilled Fish Festival, Wanzhou Tourism and Culture Festival, etc., to further enhance the influence of Wanzhou Grilled Fish.
▲ Live broadcast Wanzhou grilled fish on the cruise ship around the lake. Photo by correspondent Ran Mengjun
Wanzhou also attaches great importance to grilled fish related talent skills training, through immigration skills training, "double creation" skills training, employment skills training, young talents skills training, etc., relying on Wanzhou Technician College and other 9 vocational colleges, widely carry out star-rated hotel operation and management, hotel service and management, Chinese cuisine and other majors, more than 1,000 person-times of annual training; There are 24 private vocational training institutions such as Wu Chaozhu Grilled Fish Technology Training Class, with more than 3,000 people trained every year, providing talent support for the development of The grilled fish industry in Wanzhou.
"Wanzhou Grilled Fish Academy has also entered the construction stage, and will send a large number of professional practitioners to the grilled fish industry through systematic, standardized and standardized training, thereby promoting the further development of the grilled fish industry." Liu Xia introduced that on this basis, it can also spread the culture of Wanzhou grilled fish, so that Wanzhou grilled fish can become the main force of the national catering industry, so that "the hometown of China's grilled fish" is truly deserved.