Bean juice, this kind of old Beijing food with its own traffic, the reputation is out and controversial, people who come to Beijing to play want to taste its flavor, after tasting it, the evaluation of it is also seriously polarized, the lover loves it, the evil one is extremely evil. Exactly, what exactly is this bean juice? How to drink bean juice when you come to Beijing without showing timidity?
01
Fame is outside
/ Dark Cuisine /
Bean juice is a dark dish that can be compared with Swedish canned stinky herring and Eskimo's Kiviak pickled puffin, and it is in the top three if not the first, if not the first, in the Celestial Dynasty. This is related to the taste of bean juice, the first time you drink it is often difficult to get used to, think that it is the same as "steamed taste" and "swill water", and those who like this taste think that the "three tastes" are sour and sweet. What is the taste of swill water, I don't know, but the bean juice does have a very strong fermented sour taste, when I first drank the bean juice, I have forgotten, maybe I don't remember when the adults at home fed me to drink, anyway, now I think this thing is very delicious. In the TV series "The Gate of the Big House", there is a bridge section where the old lady of the Bai family feeds her grandson to drink bean juice, and maybe my grandfather fed me this when I was a child.
Film and television drama "The Gate of the Mansion"
Bean juice, be sure to add this child's pronunciation, if you say bean juice, it is other food. Mr. Hu Jinquan wrote in his book on Lao She: "People who can't drink bean juice are not real Beiping people. This is true, because in the old age, this kind of eating of bean juice can only be seen in the city of Beijing, and when it goes out of the city, no one in the countryside outside the city drinks bean juice. Whether it is a small people in the city, or a big car, or the prince of the family, Belle, it is good to take this bite, Mr. Liang Shiqiu once wrote: "The bitter haha who sells strength, picks around the bean juice, eats the tofu silk roll cake, drinks the bean juice, and pickles." The girls and brothers at the head of the house are inconvenient to appear in public in the streets and alleys, mix with poor civilians to drink bean juice, and will also send people or old mothers to buy casseroles to buy and reheat and drink special drinks. ”
Bean juice | spoonhunt.com
02
Bean juice
/ How? How to drink? /
"The dregs can actually be used as porridge, and the flavor of the old pulp is thin and thick." Men and women sit together, one for each palatable. This is the verse contained in the "Yandu Small Food Miscellaneous", which is about bean juice. Bean juice from the powder room, this powder room is the place where the powder skin starch is produced, the old Beijing starch mostly uses mung beans, mung beans are milled, the finest starch, the top thin after fermentation is the bean juice, the middle layer is thick paste condensation powder is hemp tofu. Because of the fermentation process, the bean juice will have a strong sour taste. The earliest bean juice is divided into two kinds: the one with rice grain size particles in it is called bean juice porridge, and the texture with finer texture without particles is called bean juice. Later, the bean juice porridge gradually faded out of the market, and only the common bean juice on the market was left.
The foreign brother tasted the bean juice for the first time, and instantly abused into an emoji | bilibili.com | TASTEBUDS eats sharply
Old Beijing drink bean juice has two ways to drink, one is raw bean juice directly drink, generally this way of drinking is summer, buy back raw bean juice, preferably cool, a neck, grunting a mouthful of stuffy, quite bold, drink raw bean juice is not on the pickles; the other way to drink is to drink cooked bean juice, or go to the shop that sells bean juice, or buy home from the vendors who push the trolley skewer alley, boil it in a casserole, or go to the bean juice shed or bean juice to pick and drink. The habit of the old Beijing flag people, after eating a meal (the flag people say that eating means eating rice) to drink porridge, when eating: "I drank porridge", it means "I don't eat", boiled bean juice can replace the porridge after the meal.
Bean juice | beijing.china.org.cn
Boiling bean juice is a craft, when boiling the heat must be just right, can not be big can not be small, the fire is too big to overflow the pot is not good, the fire is small, the soup water is separated and drained without hanging the bowl. I once heard an old man say that you should first scoop a spoonful of bean juice into the pot, and then scoop in a spoonful after the pot is opened, and so on until you have added enough. Generally my family boiled bean juice is made by the mother, the heat is well grasped, this method has not been tried, but now the family uses a gas stove or induction cooker, presumably to control the heat is much more convenient than the previous coal stove.
Boiled bean juice | China Daily | Ye Jun
Bean juice shed is generally in the temple fair, the temple will be used to build a blue cloth shed, rack on the pot to boil bean juice, and then put on the table stool, hang the name "bean juice so-and-so". Bean juice pickers are generally skewered alleys, and the table bench pots and pans and stoves are all on a pick. Bean juice shed and bean juice picker are equipped with pickle shreds, generally with the coarsest pickles of large pickled radish, shredded, and is cut very finely, there are also pickled carrot shreds, very few pickled Qin pepper shreds (there is no word for chili pepper in beijing native language, it is called Qin pepper). Cooked bean juice must be drunk while hot, because the hot can not be drunk, can only suck and suck, on the spicy pickles and scorched circle, the hotter and more drink, the more drink the hotter, and then sweat, this feeling is very refreshing.
A set of bean juice, charred rings, pickle shreds | en.wikipedia.org | snowyowls
03
Hemp tofu
/ Bean Juice's siblings /
After saying the bean juice to talk about the hemp tofu, hemp tofu and bean juice is the same root, the old Beijing to eat hemp tofu is generally fried, divided into meat stir-frying and vegetarian stir-frying, the flag people prefer meat stir-frying, generally with mutton oil, mutton minced, yellow sauce plus a little green bean mouth, fried after sprinkling green leek minced, and the hearth meatballs boiled cabbage together as a Beijing flag people winter home cooking.
Ma tofu | "Chinese Local Snacks on the Tip of the Tongue" | Li Tao
04
I want to drink bean juice
/ Where to drink? /
In the old years, the "bean juice Zhang" of South Xinhua Street and the "bean juice He" of Dong'an Market are very famous. In addition, there is a very famous bean juice shop, which is the Jinxin bean juice shop. This shop was originally located at the intersection of Lanlan City, and later relocated due to the expansion of Liangguang Road, and now belongs to the Cheap Fang Group, next to the Imperial Restaurant outside the north gate of the Temple of Heaven, which is considered to be an old qualified bean juice shop. When I was young, my father passed by Ola city at work and used to eat breakfast here. Because this shop is in the southeast corner of Ciqikou, it is also known as "Ciqikou Bean Juice Shop". Later, there were several restaurants called "Old Ciqikou Bean Juice Shop", the author did not examine it, I do not know whether it is related to Jinxin Bean Juice Shop.
Jinxin Bean Juice Shop | "Dongcheng Treasure"
Jinfang snack bar, the store was first in Chongwai Street, in 1996 due to road expansion moved to the Temple of Heaven Road, now the southwest corner of Ciqikou, operating a variety of snacks, there are also selling bean juice coke circle, last week went to feel that his family noodle tea ok.
Huguo Temple snacks, chain stores, is also operating a variety of snacks, there are many branches around Beijing, it is not convenient to run to the south of the children's shoes, you can find a nearby Huguo Temple snacks to try, but the level of each store is uneven, have to fight for character.
Jinfang snack bar | english.cri.cn
Resources:
"Yashe Talks About Eating", Liang Shiqiu, Jiangsu People's Publishing House, June 2014
"Lu Xiang Dialect Vegetable Food", Li Chunfang and Fan Guozhong, Beijing Yanshan Publishing House, December 1997
"The Customs of Old Beijing", Chang Ren Chun, Beijing Yanshan Publishing House, June 1996
"Chinese Snacks (Beijing Flavor)" Beijing Second Service Bureau, China Finance and Economic Publishing House, October 1981
"Beijing Flavor Snacks", Tong Changyou, Jindun Publishing House, August 1992
"China Eats", Tang Lusun, Guangxi Normal University Press, January 2017
"Old Beijing and the Manchus", Ai XinJueluo Haosheng, Xueyuan Publishing House, June 2008
This article was first published at: Foodie Research Institute (ID: Food_Lab)
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