As a form of artistic expression with sound and painting, costume modeling is an important part of the audiovisual beauty of film and television dramas, especially for costume dramas, the grand world view and different dynasty backgrounds give this type of huge creative space, which can often make makeup one of the biggest attractions and attract more audiences to join the ranks of chasing dramas.
But unlike the wave of traditional cultural revival, more and more exquisite, exquisite historical dramas, it is easier to "let go of yourself" ancient puppet dramas in recent years in terms of shape can be described as controversial, and intensified, whether it is a small-cost sweet pet or S+ fairy tales, can get 100% praise from netizens is a handful, the service of the hit "Long Moon Ember Ming" has fallen into polar evaluation, some netizens believe that the play is different from the same "frigid" style in recent years, and the magnificent and rich "Dunhuang aesthetics" is refreshing, There are also some netizens who believe that the show seems to be luxurious at first glance, but a closer look can find a lot of rough places.
So, today let's take this opportunity to discuss what ancient puppet dramas need to pay attention to in order to create an exclusive "aesthetic" that satisfies the audience?
Routines are tiring, and details determine success or failure
Observing the ancient puppet works that have received "bad reviews" from netizens in recent years, you will find that there are three main "pits" that "ancient puppet service" often steps on.
First, the same and serious homogenization.
In recent years, ancient puppet dramas, not only the plot has a lot of similar, reused routines, even the shape is difficult to escape the homogenization of the trap, often netizens collage the stills of the heroine of multiple costume dramas together, the same texture of light flowing dresses, monotonous hair, unchanged makeup, people can't help but ask the soul, "Is it really not copy and paste?" ”
The reason for this phenomenon is that the producer is too dependent on various "explosive formulas", especially the S+ fairy tale content that is extremely large in investment and the platform is bound to explode, and subversive innovation is likely to challenge the audience's aesthetics, and replicating past successful cases is the best way. For example, after the popularity of "Three Lives and Three Lives and Ten Miles of Peach Blossoms", a large number of fairy tale dramas began to take the "funeral style" route of white clothes and tulle, which is very "safe", but it also makes the ancient puppet modeling a rigid "assembly line" operation.
Second, the details are sloppy, and industrialization is not mature.
As we all know, a good script needs to be constantly polished, and good pretending also requires a lot of preparation time, even if it is a medium-sized drama, if you want to be perfect in all aspects, as little as three to four months, more than half a year to a year, which is almost impossible for most crews who pursue efficiency and limited funds, in addition to S+ content, the pre-installation preparation time of most A-grade ancient puppet dramas is an average of one month, and what effect can be imagined.
In addition, the costume modeling industry of internal entertainment is still a typical "buyer's market", one of the manifestations of insufficient industrialization is the scarcity of excellent talents, the head styling team is coaxed by major crews, and even embarrassing scenes are common, it is inevitable that "more radishes do not wash mud", so that rough replaces fine.
Taking "Yu Long", which was widely complained about during the broadcast, as an example, Wang Hedi's white hair with acrylic texture made him almost classified as an "ancient puppet ugly man" when he was recognized as a high-looking man.
Even "Long Moon Ember Ming", which has a highly praised service style, encountered the problem that Chen Duling's style did not have a stunning makeup photo in the early stage of broadcasting, and netizens repeatedly compared and found that it was the use of "hair bags" less, which shows that even insignificant "laziness" will affect the audience's aesthetic experience.
Third, the study is not perfect, and "replacing China with the Wa" steps on the red line.
Different from the historical drama that pursues restoration as much as possible, the dynasty overhead or the background is simply not in the world, and the "freehand" is more pursued in the model, and the inspiration is mixed, and "Zhang Guan Li Dai" is not a big problem. However, this kind of re-creation should be based on China's unique "national style and ancient charm", rather than going further and further, taking the "things" of other countries as their own without consideration, which will inevitably cause wrong guidance to some audiences over time, and is not conducive to promoting the brilliant traditional culture of the mainland.
"My Name is Liu Jinfeng" has been criticized by netizens for its styling "Wadai Hua", in the play, many of the costumes of the heroine Liu Jinfeng have obvious "kimono" elements, even the black gauze hat worn by the prime minister of the dynasty was also picked up by netizens as a variant of the Japanese Heian period Tang Dynasty, called "weeping crown".
This incident directly led to radio and television tightening the policy red line, and put forward the requirement that "architecture, clothing, clothing, and makeup should truly restore the historical period involved in costume dramas, and must not be arbitrarily used or imitate foreign styles".
Accurately refined in traditional culture, there is a "soul" national style aesthetics
The current mainstream audience, can be said to be watching British dramas, American dramas and Japanese dramas grew up a group of people, they are good at identifying good content, watching tastes are very tricky, the requirements for ancient puppet modeling are also higher than before, and the audience's feedback will inevitably force upstream practitioners to make changes, some ingenious crews began to really down-to-earth carving and dressing details, and won the praise of netizens, among them, there are even some small production short dramas that do not rely on high cost ingenuity, indicating that the entire industry has been developing towards benign.
And by observing some truly "soulful" and "high-quality" makeup, it is not difficult to find some guidelines that must be observed in creation.
First of all, successful film and television modeling can not only be superficial "beauty", but also undertake the role of fleshing out character settings, assisting in promoting the plot, and providing fulcrums for actors' performances. Taking the three sisters Zhao Paner, Sun Sanniang and Song Yinzhang in last year's popular ancient puppet drama "Menghualu" as an example, Zhao Paner's dress is elegant and delicate, and the "chef" Sun Sanniang has more convenient short styles because she has to work often. The styling styles of the three are completely different, reflecting their characters' personalities, classes, and living conditions, and the rational design gives the audience a feeling that the actor is the character itself, which can be called a model of costume costume.
Secondly, from the rise of ancient puppet dramas in 2011 to the present, the aesthetic style has undergone reincarnation again and again, from the lively and bright, visually impactful Abao color shape, to the frigid "funeral style" "Morandi color system", the audience will feel amazing at the beginning, and after a long time, they will feel aesthetic fatigue, so the creators must know how to judge the time and size up the situation, maintain a high degree of sensitivity to changes in the audience's taste, can not blindly follow the trend, but to lead the trend, take the initiative to discover some niche design points that have not yet been used, Find a way to amplify it and use it to the extreme.
The reason why "Long Moon Ember Ming" can set off the topic with makeup is because it breaks the law that all gods and immortals must "clear soup noodles" in previous fairy dramas, and presents a gorgeous and exquisite "Dunhuang aesthetics" with a rich and highly saturated color system
In addition, the exquisite costumes in costume dramas are not equivalent to the restoration history books according to the book, and the fully restored costumes may not be in line with the aesthetics of the current audience, especially for ancient puppet dramas where "freehand" is greater than "realism", appropriate artistry will leave a better impression on everyone. For designers, the most important thing is to find a balance between historical restoration and modern aesthetics, this abstract refinement, extremely test the creator's business ability and aesthetic thinking, the good extraction is to have a deep cultural heritage, ingenious and modern combination of national style aesthetics, the refining is not good, that is, empty formal beauty, collage sense full of lack of "soul".
Finally, it is worth mentioning that no matter how important the costume shape is, it can only be "icing on the cake", it is difficult to give charcoal, a good story is the foundation of a drama, and the incomparably exquisite and beautiful work in the shape has finally appeared controversial in the content, which is often more embarrassing.