In this era of rapid development, whether it is the exhaustion of energy and environmental pollution, or the popularization of globalization or the interweaving of multiculturalism, it is a problem that this generation of fashion designers cannot ignore, but it is also a turning point for "another village". In this regard, Private Policy, an independent designer brand founded by two Chinese designers, Qu Siying and Li Haoran, who plays in New York and Shanghai and continues to shine on the international stage and domestic fashion, has a very strong say. They implement the concept of sustainable development in the core planning of the brand, and also skillfully combine "caring for society" with "current trend culture"; Through the series of releases, social issues are brought to everyone's eyes from a fashionable perspective and in a creative way, and the combination of rigidity and softness is the brand's consistent style.
Private Policy designers Qu Siying and Li Haoran
As alumni who graduated together from Parsons, a well-known fashion school in the United States, Qu Siying and Li Haoran have continued to achieve great results since they co-founded Private Policy in New York - in 2019, they became the first Chinese designer group to be selected for the CFDA/VOGUE Fashion Fund; In 2020, it was selected into the Forbes 30 under 30 list. At the creative level, Private Policy takes sustainable development and mapping the current international youth culture as its two main axes, and has unique choices in design and collaboration. The classic diamond check, lace-up design and workwear silhouette not only emphasise practicality and genderless design, but also highlight the reason for "everyday but more timeless".
Fall/Winter 2020 collection
"Early recovery",
Classic workwear with a diamond check in psychedelic colors.
Spring/Summer 2021 collection
"In Search of Aphrodite", wearing a lace-up shirt
Prosthetic model Marsha Elle with a pleated dress,
It was like Aphrodite descending.
Fall/Winter 2021 collection
"We remember you", in the series
Dookata pays homage to the traditional craftsmanship of Siyi.
Fall/Winter 2022 collection
Presented in "Organic Future"
Classic functional wind strap shape.
Private Policy also actively cooperates with social groups, whether it is supporting the youth minority group who have not been able to live under the severe impact of the epidemic, encouraging Chinese living overseas to bravely face the unfriendly or extreme attitudes from other ethnic groups due to the epidemic, or cooperating with hearing-impaired artist Chella Man to launch the "The Beauty of Being Deaf" series of earrings, which is the implementation and practice of "caring for society". In this regard, Qu Siying said: "I am very happy to resonate with everyone, and I found that more people have this experience than I expected. We hope that everyone can be more understanding, even immersive, to empathize, and embrace them with a more empathetic and inclusive attitude. "For Private Policy, the definition and role of fashion is not just a cosmetic appearance and a proof of trying to blend in with others; While becoming a unique being, thinking with freedom and reason is also the indelible essence of fashion.
Private Policy with hearing-impaired artist Chella Man
Collaboration with "The Beauty of Beg Deaf"
In Private Policy's Fall/Winter 2023 collection, denim and sweatshirt recycling projects are worth paying attention to. Li Haoran shared with us that the inspiration for this project came from a previous collaboration project, where a sports brand partner provided stock fabrics and handed them over to Private Policy for secondary creation. Although the project was suspended due to some force majeure, it was also an opportunity to restart the sustainable project in another and more interesting way - the duo collected a number of unused clothes from fashion bloggers and industry friends around them, gave them a new look with avant-garde creative methods, and sent them to the stage of New York Fashion Week, hoping to spark curiosity and curiosity to further practice sustainable practices in their daily lives. Environmental sustainability has always been a topic of great concern for Fashion & Beauty Vogue, and while New York Fashion Week was held, we also took the opportunity to discuss with Qu Siying and Li Haoran.
Private Policy shared with us
Tiling of partially recycled laundry
Color matching and tailoring during the production process
Hao Ran: We actually started looking for and sourcing sustainable fabrics from a very early stage, and in the early days they were supplied by factories in Italy and Japan, after all, there are not many manufacturers who are willing to accept small orders. But especially since the beginning of the past two years, domestic manufacturers have also opened up more options for environmentally friendly fabrics, which is a surprising trend. Last year, we partnered with Xiaohongshu to place recycling bins in some of our boutiques, and we plan to create new seasons by recycling fabrics such as denim and sweatshirts.
We believe that in this online era, publicity and circulation on social platforms is also a very important link. Therefore, it is also a very attractive thing to recycle clothes from fashionistas and trend bloggers around you, even if they have been idle for a long time, to give meaning and vitality to them again, especially so that more audiences can have further understanding and contact with the concept of "sustainable fashion". We hope to use this event as a starting point for future workshops or sales of techniques and methods of transforming clothes, so that brands can not only sell ready-to-wear, but encourage more and more people to understand the fun and diversity of sustainable fashion.
Spring/Summer 2022 collection
"Urban plants", on clothes
The flower decoration is made from recycling
Made of plastic.
Fall/Winter 2023 collection
"We are all animals",
Made from recycled tannins
Looks.
Siying: Our theme this time is to further explore nature and environmental protection. The "Organic Future" of the Fall/Winter 2022 collection anticipates the infinite possibilities of fungi in the future world; The spring/summer 2023 collection is based on the theme of the apocalyptic "Noah's Ark", imagining the peaceful coexistence of humans and animals in the aftermath of the disaster, and even carnival together; This year, we're taking the topic to a deeper level, "We are all moving", exploring the relationship between humans and animals from the perspective of "living together". In human history, Chinese martial arts have been inspired by observing animals and nature, including the invention of science and technology, and even philosophical ideas. In today's chaotic environment, we hope that the audience will also re-examine the way of coexistence with animals and the importance and protection of endangered animals with a humble and loving heart.
Especially recently, we have felt that young people who spend most of their time in the city are very fond of nature. Perhaps it is precisely in 2023 that the epidemic is fading, more hope and strength will return to our hearts, and it is never too late to learn from nature. This season we used previously recycled denim and sweatshirt fabrics, vegetable leather and fur made from recycled fibers, and combined classic lace-up and workwear designs with elements of decadent rock and gothic by mimicking the natural and ostentatious style of animals.
Fall/Winter 2023 Collection "We are all animals"
Siying: Some of them are similar and some are different. First of all, we hope that Private Policy is an influential fashion brand to bring some topics that we feel meaningful into everyone's vision, and we also hope that the shows and design concepts on both sides will bring positive energy to the audience. The part where the feedback is very similar is that everyone will feel recharged because they feel fresh and interesting, which is what the audience expects from the design and theme of each season.
On the other hand, views and discussions on the same topic may vary according to culture, geography and education. For example, the "Noah's Ark" of the spring/summer 2023 series, because the show was held in an old fire building in New York, with the theme to create a post-apocalyptic carnival party, the audience at the scene felt interesting and liked this atmosphere. The domestic feedback is more about the yearning for peace, as well as the love of peace symbols and peace dove patterns. In the future, we will also adjust and innovate in response to such differences, and expect that more and more audiences will like our brand and resonate with it.
Spring/Summer 2023 collection "Noah's Ark" released in New York
Written by Lovian Yang
Edited by Lexi Chen
Design: Lele