In the past three years, New York Fashion Week seems to have "disappeared" from the public eye. Marc Jacobs, Tommy Hilfiger, Micheal Kors, Tory Burch and other well-known American fashion brands "fade out", waist designer brands are difficult to resist pressure, and the continuous shortening of the fashion week schedule, all make New York Fashion Week lose its competitiveness in the market and public opinion.
The celebrities who used to linger in the front row of the fashion week runway have disappeared. And fashion editors who grabbed reports in order to get first-hand information also sighed because of the lackluster of New York Fashion Week. Once with London, Paris and Milan, the "four-legged" New York Fashion Week is no longer glorious as it used to be.
However, this malaise is changing this season's Fall/Winter 2023 New York Fashion Week. Return, freedom and innovation became the main theme of New York.
Thom Browne, who moved the womenswear release runway to Paris in 2017, returns to the main battlefield on Valentine's Day. Perhaps it was the appointment of CFDA chairman, designer Thom Browne wanted to take this opportunity to make some "achievements", the huge dramatic silhouette, the unconventional shoulder line, the creative stitching without rules, and the childlike but also perverse print design did attract attention and topics.
After four years off the New York Fashion Week runway, Alexander Wang returns to the runway with his Fall 2023 womenswear and menswear collections. In the heart of New York's Chinatown, a fashion show with the theme of "love and romance" kicked off. Close-fitting silk dresses and lingerie, embellished with love motifs and butterfly lace details, match with common menswear elements to add a sharp texture to women's outfits.
The eye-catching men's ready-to-wear series also re-subverts the public's inherent cognition of men's wear through the upgraded use of fabrics and the deconstruction of binary opposing genders. Alexander Wang's skillful blend of gender temperament and the richer and more multifaceted expression of ready-to-wear across genders are his most sincere expression after returning to the base camp.
But it also reflects that New York Fashion Week has given designers a more inclusive soil, and those wild ideas and bold designs, younger creative power, have become harmonious and interesting here.
On February 10, Collins Strada turned the runway of the Fall/Winter 2023 collection into a "zoo" under the theme "Please Don't eat my friends."
Models dressed in ready-to-wear garments made from waste materials and sustainable fabrics, and wore animal body props made by Isamaya Ffrench to act as animals on the catwalk. Putting aside the "judgment" of banter and entertainment color, the designer hopes to call the public's attention to animal protection issues through such displays. In addition to the transmission of hidden layers such as fabrics, such an eye-catching presentation is undoubtedly a sustainable interpretation of fashion.
When London Fashion Week was labeled as niche and independent, Milan and Paris still maintained the elegant positioning of traditional fashion, and the open and diversified New York Fashion Week may allow us to see another side different from public perception, and can also open up a new world for the fashion industry.
Fashion consultant Julie Gilhart once said: "If New York Fashion Week can be smaller and more sophisticated, maybe this is where we should go." ”
On February 13, the fourth day of New York Fashion Week, two American luxury brands, Coach and Tory Burch, brought us a feast of American exquisite fashion aesthetics.
With 82 years of history, Coach has reinvented the aesthetics and style of the brand's classic heritage on Park Avenue in New York, hand-made sheep shearing and leather coats, through a younger cut and coloring treatment, giving these young people who travel from all walks of life every day more freedom and self-expression.
"The Fall Collection is inspired by the belief in the self that when you express your true self, you also influence the people around you." Creative director Stuart Vevers hopes that fashion can come from life, not from the top and untouchable. Therefore, this time, different from the grand masterpieces of the previous ready-to-wear runways, the exquisite and warm small party mode is a way for the brand to try to narrow the distance between consumers and enhance emotional communication.
Similarly, Tory Burch portrayed the elegance and chic of a New York woman with a more minimalist and sophisticated design on this season's runway.
Without complicated prints, through different material panels, silhouettes and multiple styles, as well as the use of highly saturated tones in large volumes, more choices are added to the urban women's wardrobe. Smart suits and smoothly tailored dress skirts to meet the needs of different occasions. "Imperfection is perfection, and weakness can also become strength." This season's Tory Burch aims to convey fearlessness and self-confidence and encourage women to break the rules.
Freedom is the soul of the city of New York. It has also become the theme of New York Fashion Week, where designers from all regions and nationalities can show their strength.
Compared with the past, the designer brands held at New York Fashion Week this year are more diversified and avant-garde, and the works of Chinese designers are supporting half of the sky.
Private Policy, founded by two young Chinese designers, Li Haoran and Qu Siying, often integrates social phenomena and environmental issues into the design language, bringing fashion expressions with discussion and long-term significance. With the theme "We are allanimals", this season explores the connection between humans and animals, and between humans and nature through denim panels and animal totem design. Through the free law of growth with all things in nature, we hope to give fashion a vibrant expression.
Another Chinese designer, Jason Wu, drew on the early 20th-century German artist Karl Blossfeldt's photographs from 1929 to 1930 to let flowers bloom at the Guggenheim Museum. Menswear-inspired deconstructivist tailoring is applied to feminine details such as feminine and sexy chiffon lace, exploring the organic combination of life and fashion.
In addition, the successful performances of Vivienne Tam, Chocheng, Snow Xue Gao, Anna Sui, Sandy Liang and other Chinese designers also added a variety of colors to this season's New York Fashion Week.
Since the outbreak of the pandemic, this has been a season of New York Fashion Week that has been extremely bright and attractive both inside and off the field. What is even more unexpected is that innovative business models such as commercial cocktail parties and trade fairs, as well as designers' reinterpretation of American fashion culture, not only injected new opportunities into New York Fashion Week, but also re-stimulated people's expectations for this fashion week.
However, for New York Fashion Week, which has not yet completely got out of the "internal and external troubles", diversified industrial models and entertainment marketing may be able to reap certain results in a short period of time and return to the center of the topic, but it may be necessary to embrace more challenges if you want to completely "rebirth of nirvana". WWD
Written by Mango
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