As soon as the Spring Festival ended, the entire fashion industry immediately plunged into the tight schedule of Fall/Winter 2023 Fashion Week. As the first of the four major fashion weeks, the six-day New York Fashion Week ended yesterday, Michael Kors Collection, Carolina Herrera and other classic American brands continued the previous high level, Area, Rodarte, Thom Browne, etc. brought more topical designs on the runway, and Private Policy, Snow Xue Chinese designer brands such as Gao and PH5 also continue to grow on the New York stage.
For the public, New York Fashion Week has always been the most significant stop in international fashion weeks, and the same is true for the fall and winter of 2023, where "Fashion and Beauty Vogue" takes stock of the four most distinctive trends in the new season of the runway, and grasps the pulse of the trend early.
Fall/Winter collections traditionally mean calm and understated, but from the first day of New York Fashion Week, naturalistic creative themes, prints and embroidery have focused on shattering the stereotype of Fall/Winter design. Prabal Gurung felt the beauty of butterflies during his vacation, and the colors and patterns on their wings were infinitely magnified to become striking patterns on dresses, oversized knits and shawls, or transformed into abstract structures with raised shoulders of jackets, bringing a gorgeous and light gesture to winter wear.
Prabal Gurung Fall/Winter 2023 collection
And Dion Lee, who has always been functional and athletic, also sees the charm of nature this season, but what attracts him is the moment when animals "transform" and extends this metabolism to his own character identity: "As a person, as a designer, identity is always changing and developing." "Based on designs such as slip dresses, tights and sports buckles, textures such as snakeskin and crocodile skin create a dynamic feeling through metal spikes and chains, and the changes of nature are shaped by Lee into dynamic fashion moments.
Dion Lee Fall/Winter 2023 collection
This season's Private Policy designer duo Haoran Li and Qu Siying closed for the first time after the pandemic, and the animal headdresses they wore with the runway models pointed out the theme of this creation "We Are All Animals", starting from the interpretation of the "fox wedding" described in Kurosawa's film "Dream", conveying the concept that "people pursue freedom by releasing their animal selves", so the practical details in the design, such as straps, multiple pockets and buckle decorations, Coming from exploring the commonalities between animal habitats and urban living needs, plush coats made from recycled faux fur are the best embodiment of responsibility for the natural living environment.
Private Policy Fall/Winter 2023 Collection,
Photo by Oliver Halfin
On the topic of exploring nature, Altuzarra presents us with a vivid outdoor painting this season. Abstract prints extracted from flowers and insects are combined with unrestrained and vibrant mineral colors to highlight the multi-layered combination of wool, fur and silk in the layering, sublimating fashion into a wonderful kaleidoscope facing nature.
Altuzarra's Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Plan your budget for next autumn and winter, and quality leather pieces will once again explode. This season Proenza Schouler celebrates its 20th anniversary, but Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez's clothes are not obsessed with the glory of the past, but their loyal fans, such as Chloë Sevigny, who opened the show, to a more mature, neat, rigid and soft new image. A large number of leather elements replace the knitted and silk of previous collections, but it is particularly soft and light, especially the leather bandeau dress that appeared in the second half of the runway, showing Proenza Schouler's excellent balance of craftsmanship and creativity.
Proenza Schouler Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Founded in 2016, Khaite has gained huge attention in the last two seasons, and the secret to its success is designer Catherine Holstein's scalpel-sharp and precise cuts. This season, Holstein designed the runway in the upcoming new store, Khaite's first independent store, which she described as "sharp power." Under the dim cold color, the models in black leather coats and suits walked out one by one along the narrow beam, and the cold and murderous temperament was undoubtedly revealed. In the faint light, the leather refracts the light to highlight the high texture of the look, as she says, "People will choose a brand again because of your excellent mastery of the fabric." ”
Khaite Fall/Winter 2023 collection
In contrast, Coach has been quite comfortable with leather this season, and at the Park Avenue Armory in New York, designer Stuart Vevers has reinvented Coach as the "home of American leather": on closer inspection, the textured leather worn by the models is actually spliced from factory stock fabrics, which also means that each leather jacket, leather shorts and leather jacket is unique in the way it is assembled. The combination of leather fabrics and knitted pieces also brings us more references for autumn and winter wear.
Coach Fall/Winter 2023 collection
We once remembered that Brandon Maxwell may have been the base camp of dresses born for midnight parties, but now, Maxwell is trying to transform and introduce the grandeur of evening gowns into everyday wear, which is quite evident on this season's runway, the black leather shape appears sexy and restrained, the edges of the ultra-short coat outline the femininity of the female body with just the right cut, and the thin straps of silver metal decoration add more interest to the seemingly calm solid color look. Maxwell's fashion world has said goodbye to the hustle and bustle, with restrained colors and fabrics playing between practicality and subtlety.
Brandon Maxwell's Fall/Winter 2023 collection
As one of the important birthplaces of feminism, New York is naturally a tribute to the legendary women in history. Portraits of Gloria Steinem, Cher, Tina Turner and Jane Fonda appeared on the inspiration board for the new collection of Michael Kors Collection, and the surprise appearance of women's rights leader Gloria Steinem, who is over 90 years old, has made a solid and powerful 70s American mark on the season: huge aviator sunglasses, a sleek suit coat and high-waisted wide-leg pants. All of them are reminiscent of those who took to the streets and cheered for women's rights.
Michael Kors Collection Fall/Winter 2023
On the runway of the Jason Wu Collection, designer Wu Jigang chose another pioneering woman as a reference, Marlene Dietrich, through her rebellious dress style of the year, emphasizing the designer's own menswear design background, bringing a new perspective to the brand's feminine dresses. "We've always lived in a world that's over-PS, over-filtered; I think it's good to be back to reality. "So we can see that the delicate embroidered dresses wrapped in well-tailored coats and long coats, or the black tights under the sheer long skirts, add more practicality to the slightly gorgeous look.
Jason Wu Collection Fall/Winter 2023
Gabriela Hearst is sparing no effort to justify the architecture and home designer Eileen Gray of the early 20s through design, an era when the modernist movement was in full swing, when Gray's pioneering efforts were often overshadowed by male designers of the same period, but Hearst believes that it is time to reassert its design influence. The bold color block decorations in Gray's design and the ingenious structure of the lacquered wood screens have become the focus of Hearst's research this season, and the delicate texture and solid workmanship on those exquisite leather coats and dresses prove the timelessness of Gray's creativity and once again emphasize the power of female creatives not to be ignored.
Gabriela Hearst Fall/Winter 2023 collection
"I did a lot of research on the feminist movement in the '60s. At the same time, they were dressed so fantastically, and I was really inspired by the attitude of that period. From Lana Del Ray's song "Born to Die" to retro period prints and press images of the feminist movement, Gao Xue's inspiration board displays elements related to the 60s, guiding her to mix and match colorful checks, botanical prints and punk elements in her designs.
Snow Xue Gao Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Area is perhaps one of the most topical brands at New York Fashion Week this season, using pieces of fashion as an installation that coexists with models inspired by the process of fruit from freshness to decay, while a series of banana elements are reminiscent of Josephine Baker, the legendary face of pop culture, military and black rights in the mid-20s.
Area Spring/Summer 2023 collection
Rodarte's return to New York Fashion Sunday did not disappoint, as can be seen in the runway, where silver installations announced that the party animals were about to set off, gothic fairies appeared in front of the audience with a touch of sharpness and strong personality, velvet and sequins were sprinkled on Rodarte's signature dresses, and a series of handmade dresses like cheerleading tassels at the end of the show brought a surreal sense of charm to designer Kate The "impact" that Mulleavy wanted to express.
Rodarte Fall/Winter 2023 collection
If you are curious about what the "old money" dress of New York's high society looks like, look at Wes Gordon's Carolina Herrera this season, drawing inspiration from the rebellious and noble elegance of "Princess Sisi", the entire collection of dresses find a delicate balance in the beauty and grace and dexterity, of course, Ms. Herrera's iconic shirt design is still there, but it is reinterpreted by Gordon in the form of sheer tulle, It shows a more feminine temperament.
Carolina Herrera Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Since the modular design of the previous season, Tory Burch has continued to simplify this season, not only in the style of daywear, but also in the dressing part, "I want to challenge the traditional concept of femininity and beauty and reverse it. "I don't think women need rules anymore." Burch saw the corsets, long hidden under the dress, to be a game-changer, reconstructed, given just the right amount of detail, and transformed into a new choice of dresses that were both snug and inventive. At the same time, simpler lines and better fabric texture make up Tory Burch's highlight this season, and they fit into almost any woman's everyday wardrobe.
Tory Burch Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Even in the same night, when brands encourage everyone to live in the present, Thom Browne leads everyone to look up at the stars. Thom Browne, who returns to New York Fashion Week, staged a half-hour mini-stage play this season, "You can only see things clearly with your heart." Important things are invisible with the eye. "Quotes from The Little Prince came out along with the runway. And the seven planets dressed as the Little Prince, the pilot and the anthropomorphic then walked out in turn, revolving around the airplane installation in the center of the show, whether you have read the original book of "The Little Prince" or not, this fashion show unveiled on Valentine's Day evening undoubtedly evokes the roses in the heart of every audience.
Thom Browne Fall/Winter 2023 collection
Written by: Shanlai
Edited by Yang Yi
Backstage photography by Hunter Abrams
Design: Xiaoni