Georgian cuisine
Geographically close to Russia, Georgian food can be considered heavy and tedious. But this is not the case. Any traveler to Georgia will tell you that the country's unique cuisine, wine culture and supra (Georgian Feast) ceremonies are the highlights.
While some of Russia's gastronomic features do persist (plenty of carbohydrates, dairy products, and red meat), religious practices that require not to eat meat at certain times of the year mean that vegetarians have plenty of options. Coupled with the heavy use of aromatics and chili peppers (thanks in part to its Persian and Turkish neighbors to the south), Georgian cooking also includes plenty of fresh herbs and some of the tastiest local produce you'll probably encounter anywhere in the United States.
Tbilisi restaurants
Hincalli
Hincalli
The most well-known dish in Georgia, khinkali, is a mixture of Russian dumplings, wontons and Chinese soup dumplings. The simple water and flour dough bun is stuffed with a variety of meat and non-meat fillings — my favorites are potatoes and cheeses, as well as Montanir-style pork and veal — before cooking. There is an art of eating khinkali: after pouring black pepper on a plate, it is customary to first grasp the dumpling with the nipple of the dough, bite a small hole in the side, and then sip the juice. However, it is not polite to eat that multi-section dough, so put it on a plate.
Traveler's Tip: Which restaurant in Tbilisi has the best khinkali is a hotly debated topic. Zakhar Zakharich is a local favorite – it is rumored to be one of the last restaurants to still make khinkali by hand. All restaurants require a minimum order of five pieces for any one flavor.
Hachapuri
Hachapuri
Bread (puri) is a sacred thing in the Caucasus – so much so that throwing away bread is taboo, which is why you'll often see plastic bags full of old bread crusts tied to the outside of the trash can. Khachapuri is an open cheese pie that is one of the most creative bread dishes in Georgia. The different varieties correspond to different regions: traditional khachapuri and savoury surguni cheeses are the city's favorites; there are also lobiani (filled with beans), khabizgina (filled with potatoes) and my personal favorite khachapuri filling, coated with butter and grilled on a rotisserie fork. In his own league is the extremely indulgent Adjarian khachapuri: a boat-shaped pie with a raw egg yolk and a piece of butter floating on top of melted cheese.
Traveler's Tip: Cafe Restaurant Kala is a great place to try Adjarian khachapuri. Stir the butter and egg yolks with a fork, then break open the breadcrumbs and scoop up the filling. Note to budget-conscious travelers – after one of them, you don't need to eat again for at least 24 hours!
Pukhail
Pukhail
At this stage, you may want to revisit your palate – check out pkhali, a vegan dish made from chopped beetroot, nettle, cabbage, spinach and other leafy vegetables. Flavored with crushed walnuts, garlic and fresh herbs, pkhali is like a mix of cold salads and dips.
Traveler's Tip: Shavi Lomi (Black Lion)'s pkhali has five vibrant pastes with biscuits and cheeses next to them, making it the ideal platter.
Lobio
Lobio
Now I know that boiled beans are a bit hard to sell; but as usual, Georgia has taken its most inconspicuous dishes to a whole new level of flavor. Cooked with onions and spices and served in antique clay pots, the delicious lobio (stewed kidney beans) comes with all the toppings – kimchi, fresh onions and mchadi corn bread. For something different, try lobio Racha, a dish associated with the Western Highlands of Georgia that includes the Ham Flying Festival.
Traveler's Tip: Duquani is a traditional Georgian-style tavern offering excellent lobio and other classic dishes.
Georgian salad
Georgian salad
Georgia grows the strongest, tastiest tomatoes, and no dish can show them better than a humble farmer salad. Traditional Georgian salads include thick tomatoes and cucumbers served with basil and coriander, Kacht olive oil, red onions and a dash of rocket lettuce. But the real secret lies in the sauce: creamy baje (Georgian walnut sauce), usually set aside as an optional extra service.
Traveler's Tip: Enjoy a good meal – Georgian salad from Keto and Kote, Tbilisi's worst-kept secret café, served with freshly baked bread and a savoury piece of sulguni cheese.
You'll find that the diversity of Georgian cuisine is enough to justify eating local food every day. There are hundreds of cafes and restaurants in and around The Old Town of Tbilisi – stick to the tavern-style cellar restaurants and local cafes for the best food.
Travel blogger, from Brisbane, Australia, quit his job as a magazine reporter in 2015, dreaming of traveling and living overseas for as long as possible. Emily is passionate about learning about different cultures through textiles, handicrafts and handmade products and often writes stories about these topics for her own documentary website.
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