Abstract: During the two Han Dynasties, the economy developed rapidly, the society was stable, and the food variety was diverse, especially the increase in meat, the prevalence of alcohol and drinking, and the entertainment during the banquet and other cultural activities. Correspondingly, the han dynasty's drinking and banqueting ceremonies showed the characteristics of wine into ceremonies, strong extreme feasts and joyful winds of pleasure, and different directions in the halls and rooms. In the history of drinking and feasting, the Han Dynasty was in a transitional period from the stage of sitting and sharing food to the stage of sitting and sharing food, inheriting the ancient ritual of drinking and feasting in the pre-Qin Dynasty, opening up the custom of drinking and feasting without wine and not enjoying the Han people, and constructing a pattern of discord in order of harmonizing human morality with drinking and feasting.

During the two Han dynasties, social stability, economic development, territorial expansion, and frequent exchanges between various ethnic groups were one of the most vigorous dynasties in China's history, and it was also an important period for the formation of folk etiquette in China. The extensive social activity of drinking and feasting reflects the social atmosphere and ritual music culture of the Han Dynasty.
First, the dietary pattern of "north and south rice" is roughly fixed
With the development of society and economic prosperity, the Han people's diet is greatly richer than that of previous generations, the variety of food is diversified, especially the increase in meat, the prevalence of alcohol, exotic foods such as Hushi cheese continue to enter Middle-earth, food processing, preservation and consumption methods are diverse, cooking is becoming more and more refined, dishes are increasing, and begin to pay attention to the preservation of food. During the Han Dynasty, cereals were the main food, with meat, vegetables and fruits as side foods, and meat dominated the diet of the northwest and northern pastoral areas. Due to the vast territory and many nationalities, the diet has distinct regional and ethnic characteristics.
(1) The staple food is mainly grains
In the Han Dynasty, there were many varieties of crops, and the Yellow Emperor's Inner Classic summarized the food raw materials of the Qin and Han Dynasties as follows: "Five grains for nourishment, five fruits for help, five livestock for benefit, and five vegetables for filling." It can be seen that grain is mainly "five grains." According to the Huainanzi Xiuwu Xun, the "five grains" include millet, millet (稷), 菽, wheat, rice, and so on. Huang huang rice, commonly known today, was the most important food crop before the Spring and Autumn Period, and was replaced by "silkworm" after the Han Dynasty, and the planting area was reduced. Millet is also known as millet, which is today's millet. Grass and millet are often used as a general term for general crops, originally as the general name of food crops "valley", in the Han Dynasty began to be specifically called millet, ordinary people eat more, can be used as a standard to measure Feng Lu. 菽 refers to beans, there are soybeans, adzuki beans, after the Han called beans. Wheat is divided into barley and wheat. In the Han Dynasty, rice has three major varieties of rice, millet, millet and straw. In the pre-Qin Dynasty, the yield of rice in the north was small and therefore precious, and in the Han Dynasty, it was widely planted in the south, and rice in the north was gradually increased. It can be seen that China's traditional main food crops were already available in the Han Dynasty. In addition, the Eastern Han Dynasty has generally begun to use stone grinding to process grains, so that the proportion and status of wheat in the grain has risen rapidly, becoming the largest and most productive food crop in the north. In addition, it also makes the diet develop from grain food to pasta, which greatly promotes human health, enriches the pattern of pasta, changes people's way of eating, and is a great creation in the history of China's diet, and gradually formed the habit of northerners who like to eat pasta. The eating habits of noodles in the north and rice in the south were basically established in the Han Dynasty.
(2) The proportion of meat in side foods has increased, and pork has become the protagonist
The development of breeding technology and the development of animal husbandry in the Han Dynasty enriched the types of non-staple foods of the Han people, changing the "ancients, the Shu people eat quinoa, non-township drinking, pork, sacrifice without wine meat." Therefore, the princes do not kill cattle and sheep for no reason, the masters do not kill dogs without reason"[1] "Seventy can eat meat"[2] and other dietary restrictions, the people's Toyota foot is hot, the increase in meat, the day of the festival, "the rich 'vertebral bull drums', the middle 'slaughters sheep and kills dogs', and the poor also have 'chickens and five fangs'" [3]. Meat mainly consists of five animals. The five animals are listed as "cattle, dogs, sheep, pigs, and chickens" in the Lingshu Sutra, alongside grains, as well as small livestock and poultry such as ducks, geese, pigeons, and rabbits. Beef was the finest of the meats of the Han Dynasty, and the emperor gave the people hundreds of cattle wine and the time of the community sacrifice was a good opportunity for the people to eat beef. Mutton is more expensive in quality, and the imperial court often uses it as a gift, and the Book of later Han states that "every wax in Jianwu, the edict gives a doctor a sheep" [4]. The pig industry has developed rapidly, and pork has risen to become the protagonist of meat. Dogs in the Han Dynasty and the current dog is different from the current characterization of dogs as pets, mostly as a source of meat, there are butchers who specialize in slaughtering dogs, and fan Duo, the general who rescued Liu Bang at the Hongmen Feast, was in the early years of slaughtering dogs. Pork and dog meat are mentioned in "Huainanzi", and the idiom of "peeling the dog and roasting the pig" is derived from this. Fish is also an important source of meat, and there is no shortage of fish in Chinese painting masonry. The "Book of Han and Geography" says: "The people eat fish and rice, and they are engaged in fishing, hunting, and logging." [5] Five animals, together with fish, became the main meat of the Han Dynasty. In addition, the nobility ate wild birds for their own sake.
(iii) The development of vegetable cultivation is relatively slow
Compared with food crops, vegetable cultivation in the Han Dynasty was slightly weaker, mainly field collection and artificial garden planting. There are more than 30 kinds of vegetables recorded in the Qi Min Zhi Shu using cultivation methods. The Five Tastes of the Lingshu Sutra lists five dishes as: sunflower, leek, salty, bitter, and green onion, and lists Aoi as the first of the five dishes. Sunflower, also known as winter sunflower, winter cold vegetable, is an important vegetable in ancient times, known as the "first of a hundred vegetables", the Qin and Han Dynasties were most commonly eaten. Leeks have strong vitality, short cuts and raw, easy to plant, leek flowers can be made into sauce, and are respected by the Han people. Leeks are a medicinal and food homologous dish, and it is recorded in the MaWangdui Book "Ten Questions" that leeks can treat a variety of diseases, calling them "grass chitose"[6]. It is a mountain leek, and the Warring States Policy Han Ce records that the common people's laborers ate "about bean rice and soup". Also known as xuetou, it is a delicious vegetable, and Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica" lists it as the ganoderma lucidum in the dish. The Shennong Materia Medica records that the head of the chervil can treat sores, and long-term consumption can maintain youth. It is wild in the mountains and can also be cultivated artificially. In addition to the vegetables listed above, there are also taro, bamboo shoots, vines and so on. Because of its high starch content, the pre-Qin Listed it as a staple food, and the poor people of the Han Dynasty often used it to fill their hunger, and it was the main force of relief during famine. Bamboo shoots were planted in the pre-Qin Dynasty, because of their crispy, crisp and crispy flavor, which can dissolve the greasy and fragrant meat, and are considered delicious and are mostly used to entertain distinguished guests. Mandarin, now known as kohlrabi, its roots and leaves are similar to radish and mustard, the yield is higher, can replace the staple food, famine years are more used, the first Qin called Feng, after the Han began to call the vine jing. After Zhang Qian's mission to the Western Regions, he successively introduced new vegetables such as eggplant, watermelon, cucumber, lentil coriander (coriander), and purple onion (onion) into the interior, and gradually expanded the cultivation and increased the number of vegetarian varieties. During the Eastern Han Dynasty, nutritious and inexpensive tofu appeared, containing protein that was easily absorbed by the human body and became a nutritional source of protein needed by the human body.
(4) The fruit is abundant, there are more condiments, and plant sauce has appeared
China is a vast country with a wide variety of fruit trees, is the world's largest fruit tree origin center, peach, jujube, citrus planting history has a long history. The main fruit trees planted in the Han Dynasty were peach, plum, pear, jujube, chestnut, tang, apricot, persimmon, plum, citrus, orange, orange, loquat and lychee, as well as grapes, walnuts, Persian dates, almonds and so on from the western region. Among them, the Lingnan region is famous for its abundant production of lychees, longan, bananas, citrus, grapefruit, sugarcane, coconuts, etc., and these fruits are mostly used as tributes. The traffic of the Han Dynasty enabled watermelons, grapes, pomegranates, peaches, alfalfa and other specialties from the north and south of the Tianshan Mountains to be transmitted to the interior, ensuring the inland supply of fruits outside the border and the north and south, and the fresh fruits that were not easy to transport were also stored and transported as preserved fruits. The condiments of the Han Dynasty mainly included salt, sauce, fat, pineapple, sugar, honey, soy sauce, pineapple, ginger, leek, mustard and so on. Salt has a higher status, mainly sea salt, lake salt and well salt; Spicy flavor products mainly include shallots, ginger, garlic, peppercorns, turnips, etc.; Fragrance materials include zhu zhu, etc.; Sour taste material with plum; Honey is an important sweetener. Sauce was the main condiment of the pre-Qin Dynasty, and in the Han Dynasty, there were not only meat sauces such as beef, sheep, rabbit and fish, but also plant sauces such as mustard sauce and elm sauce. Bean sauce was a major invention of the Han Dynasty and had a profound impact on the seasoning of later generations.
(v) Alcohol becomes a drink of daily life
With the development of the economy and the increasing abundance of agricultural products, wine is no longer a rare product, and gradually changes from the exclusive use of the ruling class to the common drinking of the people. At that time, the main types of liquor were rice wine, rice wine, barley wine, barley rice wine, etc., as well as fruit-based wine, sugarcane wine, etc. The wine originated from the Western Regions, and after Zhang Qian passed through the Western Regions, "the wine of pu peach, ying yu shi dynasty". Sugarcane wine is also called golden pulp, and the fourth volume of the Xijing Miscellaneous Records quotes a cloud of "Liu Fu": "The wine mash of the golden pulp is offered by the lord", and it is said that "the Liang people make cane wine, the name of the golden pulp". In addition, the sweet milk, yogurt, cheese, cheese and other foods and cooking techniques of the northern nomads have been introduced to the interior, changing the eating habits and dietary structure of the Han people.
(6) Exquisite culinary skills
The French social anthropologist Levin Stelles has a famous cooking formula: raw + cooked = natural + cultural. Li Zehou wrote in "Chinese Aesthetics": "Hungry people often do not know the taste of food, and food is only the object of filling his or her stomach. Only when people can pay attention to and pursue the taste of food, just as they pay attention to and pursue the color and style of clothing and accessories rather than to shield the body from the cold, it shows that more things have begun to sprout on the basis of meeting physiological needs. This kind of 'more stuff' is first reflected in the Han people's cooking of food. [7] The cooking of Han Dynasty food was exquisite and complex, according to the Qi Min Zhi Shu, the main ones were steaming, boiling, and soup (boiling rice noodles and meat or vegetables), frying (roasting and stir-frying), boiling (boiling meat and vegetables into boiling soup to make dried meat), boiling (cooking with juice and leaves), 脍 (finely cut meat), Tho (菹, Lettuce, sour brewing), Boiling (dry frying), Bacon (marinated poultry meat), Steamed (dipping), Dried meat (salt or other spices to make dried meat), Cannon (boiled meat and then grilled), Preserved bread (boiled sugar and made beets), And boiled (sprinkled with wine and oil while directly grilling. From the Hu people and other nomadic people introduced) and other more than ten different cooking methods, cooking methods are very rich, but mainly fried, boiled, waxed, preserved, some for the time to eat, some for long-term preservation. At the same time, the gradual increase of ingredients has made the Han people begin to pay attention to the preservation and preservation of food, mainly including honey storage, salt storage, exposure, dehydration, sauce storage, vinegar storage and other preservation methods. The cooking oil of the Han Dynasty was mainly "fat" and "ointment", "the coagulant knows the fat, the interpreter knows the ointment". It is worth mentioning that during the Wei and Jin dynasties at the end of the Han Dynasty, people used sesame seeds imported from the Western Regions to squeeze oil, which was initially used for lighting lamps and later for stir-frying. Later, soybean oil and vegetable oil appeared, which made vegetable oil cooking on the historical stage, entered the homes of ordinary people, and opened up a broad space for the cooking skills of future generations.
The overall improvement of the level of diet in the Han Dynasty, the strong demand for commodity exchange, the catering market and the catering industry gradually flourished, and restaurants appeared. The expansion of food sources and the development of the food market have formed a variety of cultural activities during the banquet, and the two complement each other, opening the window of the Chinese nation's aesthetics of drinking and feasting.
Second, the development characteristics of drinking and feasting etiquette in the Han Dynasty
Drinking and feasting is a gathering method for people to carry out social interactions, and it is also the embodiment of social atmosphere. The feasting of the Han Dynasty, on the basis of the Zhou Dynasty, after the decline of etiquette in the Spring and Autumn Warring States, developed in the Han Dynasty, which was full of ceremonies and power, and the final feast of incivility was developed, and the wind of drinking and feasting flourished with material and prevailed because of etiquette.
(1) Making a gift with wine: A meeting of hundred gifts, not without wine
Before the Han Dynasty, wine was mainly used for sacrifice and squandering by nobles. With the improvement of winemaking and the rapid development of winemaking, wine has penetrated into all fields of social life, and wine is used in various exchanges such as ushering in sending and celebrating festivals, which not only becomes the rule of etiquette, but also increasingly becomes a life adjustment. More than thirty kinds of profitable industrial and commercial products are recorded in the "Chronicle of History and Cargo Breeding", and wine ranks first. The wine used in the Han Dynasty mainly included drinking and feasting wine, sacrifice, and medicinal introduction.
1. Drinking wine for feasts and festivals
Royal bureaucratic landlords, feasting and drinking are popular, and wine is a must-have for the banquet. According to the Book of the Later Han Dynasty, on the first day of the first lunar month every year, the emperor feasted on his courtiers at the Taiji Hall, "the clan chambers of liu miscellaneous meetings, more than 10,000 people" [8]. During this period, the imperial court made it clear that there were different ranks of honor and inferiority for kings and subjects, and the subsequent banquet ceremonies achieved harmony between kings and subjects and the orderliness of the imperial court on the basis of the rank of honor and inferiority. Records of dignitaries, feasting and revelry, "drinking alcohol day and night"[9] abound, with spectacular scenes and widespread drinking, or "eating wine and drinking, successive causes"[10], or "seeking wine and meat because of the loss of man"[11], or "there are guests in the house, lifting pots and drinking", or "drinking swallows on the tao, flowing in the rivers and floating". In the Han Dynasty, there were also "village drinking" ceremonies in folk counties, and every March, when the school worshiped Zhou Gong and Confucius, a grand cocktail party was held, and teachers and students drank happily. In short, weddings and funerals, gifts and hospitality, all without wine.
2. Sacrificial wine
Sacrifice has always been a major event in people's lives, and the Zuo Zhuan says: "The great affairs of the country are in the worship and the rong" [12], which has received special attention from people. In the sacrifice, in addition to the dishes, wine is an indispensable sacrifice. The sacrifices of the Zhou Dynasty included offering heaven and earth, sheji, zongmiao, ancestors and so on. Although the superstitious color of sacrifice in the Han Dynasty was still relatively strong, the focus has shifted to the ancestral temple (ancestor) sacrifice, and there are many festival entertainment contents after the sacrifice, such as Cai Yong said in "Dictatorship": "At the end of the year, the officials feast and drink." [13]
3. Health care and funeral alcohol
In the Han Dynasty medical books such as Zhang Zhongjing's "Outline of the Golden Plateau" and "Treatise on Typhoid Fever" and Hua Tuo's "Classic of China and Tibet", there are examples of the use of wine to treat diseases, and there are cannon medicines for internal use, external application and medicinal citations, reflecting the universality of Han Dynasty wine as a medical treatment. In addition, in the Han Dynasty, thick burials were popular, and daily necessities such as wine drinks, wine utensils, and grain were often used as funeral items.
The Han Dynasty drinking class is extensive, the wine activities are frequent, all kinds of literature of the Han Dynasty, especially the Dafu, Lefu, poetry and other literary works have a large number of records of drinking, excavated Han portrait bricks, murals, paintings also vividly depict the feast scene at that time, wine became an important item of han Dynasty social drinking. Therefore, the Book of Han and the Chronicle of Food and Goods Yun: "The wine drinker, the beauty of the heavens, the emperor so nourishes the world, enjoys the blessings of the gods, and supports the sick." A meeting of 100 gifts, not without wine. ”[14]
(2) Extreme feasting: a strong wind of feasting and drinking to help
The Zhou rites of the pre-Qin period paid attention to the joyful and calm feasts in the "Book of Poetry", while the feasts of the Han Dynasty changed the previous modesty and rituals, and showed more of the exaggerated state of extreme feasting and pleasure. In order to help entertain, the banquet is often accompanied by entertainment activities such as music and dance, acrobatics, hundred plays, and poetry.
1. Feast on holidays, and get drunk with kings and courtiers
The Hajj ceremony is a great gift from the princes, civil and military officials, and emperors of the Fan state, and the Book of Later Han says: "In the first month of each year, congratulations to the great dynasty... The upper temple above 2,000 stones is called long live. Raise the throne before sitting. Sikong serves soup, and the great si nong offers rice and plays the music of food and lifting. Hundreds of officials were blessed with feasts and great pleasures. [15] Ban Gu's "Dongdu Fu" also vividly depicts this: "The court is a thousand products, and the purpose of wine is ten thousand bells." LieJinyi, Ban Yuqian, Jiazhen Yu, Tai Prison Yi. Er Nai eats "Yong" Che, Taishi Song, Chen Jinshi, Bu Si Zhu, Bell Drum Sonorous, Orchestra Ye Yu. ...... Wanle Bei, Bai Li Ji, Huang Huan Huan, Qun Chen drunk. [16] It was a scene of gentlemen drinking, joyful and harmonious, orderly, and orderly manners.
2. Acrobatics, singing and dancing to help, dancing to support fun
The princes and nobles of the Han Dynasty often used music and dance to help in banquets and drinks, and music and dance played an important role in pleasure. At the famous Hongmen banquet, Xiang Yu's general Fan Zeng said, "There is no pleasure in the army, please dance with a sword", indicating that there is a custom of dancing to help entertain the army. The Collected Poems of Lefu says: "Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty enjoyed drinking, and The King of Changsha danced. Since then, it is especially important to dance, and the genus to dance, and the Judean drink to belong to the cup. [17] In the middle of the Western Han Dynasty, with the close cultural exchanges between China and foreign countries, the acrobatic art of the countries in the Western Regions was introduced to the Central Plains and occupied an important position in drinking and entertaining, producing a deterrent and entertainment effect. Hundred Opera is a general term for acrobatics, song and dance, and various folk musical skills. Han Dynasty acrobatics include acrobatics, circus, car and magic, etc., often mixed with music tricks, maihime, haiyou and other ones to perform grand hundred plays. During the reign of Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty, "the big horn arrived, the monsters were played in surprise, and many spectators gathered." The rewards, the wine pond meat forest, so that foreign visitors all over the warehouses and mansions, want to see the vast han, and be horrified. and the work of the one who adds to his glare, and the horns become more and more prosperous with each passing year, and its prosperity begins from this time" [18]. Among the Han portrait stones, there are many images of folk acrobatic performances, and the portraits of the Han Tombs of Yangzishan in Chengdu, Sichuan Province, the stone bricks of the Han Tomb Portrait of Chengdu, Sichuan, and the Stone Feast of the Tombs of Nanyang, Henan, have unearthed a group of dance music figurines, inverted acrobatic figurines, etc., and their dancing, playing music, and handstanding movements are concise, vivid, simple, and full of vitality, showing the magnificent posture of the Han Dynasty.
3. Poetry Fu Yaxing, Throwing Pot Game
The literati of the Han Dynasty borrowed wine feasts to chant or express emotions, such as Sima Xiangru's "Tianzi Hunting Fu", Zou Yang's "Wine Fu", Yang Xiong's "Shu Du Fu", Zhang Heng's "Nan Du Fu", Ma Rong's "Flute Fu", Ban Gu's "Two Du Fu", etc., and there are drinking feast figures everywhere. The "Ancient Song" of Han Le Fu records the entertainment during the banquet: "Go to the Golden Hall, wear a jade bottle." Extend your guests, enter the Golden Gate. Enter the Golden Gate and go to the Golden Hall. East kitchen utensils for cooking, vertebral cattle cooking pigs and sheep. The master advances the wine, and the bullet is for the Qing merchant. Throw pots against chess, play games and resume. The vermilion fire wind flutters smoke, and Boshan spits out a slight fragrance. Qing Zhu Fa Zhu Yan, four sitting happy and healthy. Happy today, longevity and frost. "Guests and hosts gather together, there is a rich meal to enjoy, there is a host toasting strings and singing to help, after the banquet there are pots, game entertainment, guests and hosts are drunk to the point of excitement on the paper."
In the Han Dynasty, the wind of feasting and drinking was strong, whether it was a court banquet or a folk banquet, song and dance, music, wine order and other activities were more common. In the Han portrait stone, the scenes of entertaining guests and hosts such as gatherings of the people, entertaining guests, and family banquets, performance scenes such as drinking and feasting, cooking, music and dance, and other music, as well as auxiliary music such as wine orders, pot throwing and six Bo, show the strong atmosphere of Shang dance and entertainment in the Han Dynasty. Zhongzhi Mingxuan, Zheng Wu Zhao Zhen. [19] The Han Dynasty was economically prosperous and socially stable, and the entertainment during the banquet was a practice of enjoying optimism, which met the physical and psychological needs of the Han Dynasty, reflected the social atmosphere and cultural phenomena of the time, and also formed the custom of drinking and feasting with wine and singing and dancing.
(iii) The hall has a different position of dignity and inferiority
Where the official banquet is officially held, the number of seats with the banqueters shows the relationship between the host and the guest, the high rank of the knight, reflecting each other's status and inferiority, interpersonal relations, changes in the situation and other information. Through the analysis and study of a large number of ancient texts, the Qing Dynasty scholar Ling Tingkan put forward the view that "the east direction of the room is respected, and the south direction of the hall is respected" [20] in his book "Interpretation of the Book of Rites". In the banquet, it is generally decided whether to be east or south according to the structure of the building. The architecture of the ancient aristocratic activity place is generally a hall structure, sitting north and facing south, front hall and back room, and entering the hall has come here. The room is generally rectangular, the east and west are long and the north and south are narrow, so the indoor sitting west to east space is spacious for the most honorable; After that, it is sitting north to south, sitting south to north, and the most humble is sitting on the east and west, that is, the so-called indoor "east is respected". The "Hongmen Feast" clearly indicates the sub-dignity and inferiority of the seats in the room, "Xiang Wang, Xiang Bodong sits in the direction, Ya Father (Fan Zeng) sits in the south, and The Ya Father, Fan Zengye." Pei Gong sat north, and Zhang Liangxi sat in the west"[21]. The guest Pei Gong could only sit in the third position, which showed the arrogance of King Xiang. Ordinary people's diet and living are simpler and are carried out indoors, so "east-facing respect" is most widely used in banquets.
Above the hall, Nango (向) is honored. The building of the hall is spacious and bright, usually used to hold more formal ceremonial events, and the south-facing position is the most prestigious because the building sits north to south. The group of courtiers above the court gathered, and the emperor was called lonely in the south, and the subjects in the north were called subjects, that is, the so-called southern kings and northern subjects. The hall is respected in the south direction, sitting north and facing south, condescending. Under the palace, Lang Zhong, who "holds the gate of the palace", stands on both sides of the steps, with hundreds of people on each step. Heroes, princes, generals and military officials are displayed in the west and east; The following is displayed in the east and stands in the west. When the group of courtiers entered the outer domain, they were facing the countryside to the north. However, even if it is the same as the upper seat, there is a difference between the left and the right, with the right as the honor, such as the "Records of emperor Wen of Han" says "right sage left qi", here right and left, Wei Zhao's annotation is "right Jugao, left Judas is also", Yan Shigu note: "Right is also up"[22], following the ancient system.
After that, with the change of architectural pattern, the upper position of the hall remains unchanged, and the indoor seats are gradually changed to the positioning of the center, the upper door, and the direction of the good view.
Third, the historical status and significance of the drinking and banqueting ceremonies in the Han Dynasty
The pioneering and enterprising social atmosphere of the Han Dynasty and the gradual dominance of Confucianism gradually systematized and standardized the etiquette of the Han Dynasty, inheriting the Zhou rites and having the characteristics of the Han Dynasty. In the Han Dynasty, the habit of drinking and feasting was popular up and down, and drinking and feasting was a common social entertainment activity. However, the idea of etiquette that "etiquette cannot be lower than the common people" excludes the diet of ordinary people whose main purpose is to fill the hunger system from the jurisdiction of the etiquette system.
(1) Inherited the ancient ritual of drinking and feasting in the pre-Qin Dynasty, and formed the custom of drinking and feasting without wine and pleasure
In the pre-Qin period, grain was scarce, and wine was made of grain so precious, mainly used to honor the gods and filial piety, and the commoners drank less. In the Han Dynasty, with the development of the economy, and the rulers often had behaviors such as big pickles and feasts, drinking became an indispensable and important part of the Han Dynasty's drinking and banquet culture. At the beginning of the founding of the Han Dynasty, Shusun Tong proposed himself to formulate etiquette for Liu Bang: "Those who perform ceremonies, those who are versed in accordance with the feelings of the people of the times are also ... [23] It opened a new period in the development of the Chinese ceremonial system, and laid the foundation for Emperor Wu of the Han Dynasty to "do it according to the people and follow the customs for the system"[24].
The feast of kings and subjects not only shows the difference between kings and subjects, but also expresses the feelings of kings and subjects. Taking the wine ceremony after the imperial ceremony as an example, the "History of Liu Jing's Uncle Sun Tong Lie" details that when Gao Zu built the Changle Palace in the seventh year (200), The hundred officials of the Uncle Sun Tong ordered the ceremony of seeing the emperor: "Yi: First Pingming, Gurudwara Zhi Li, lead to the second entrance to the temple... Rumors 'tend'. ...... The great line has nine guests, and the transmission is passed on. So the emperor came out of the room, and a hundred officials took up their posts to pass the police.... From the kings below, there is no fear and reverence. To the end of the ceremony, double the french wine. All the attendants sat in the temple and bowed their heads, and raised their lives with dignity and inferiority. The Gurudwara says 'strike the wine'. The imperial history law enforcement is not as good as the ceremonial ones. There is no one who dares to make noise and disrespect. [25] In the process, the courtiers congratulated the emperor one by one according to their ranks, and the order of the ranks among the courtiers was clear, revealing the emperor's most honorable status. All acts during the banquet, such as entering the table, drinking, toasting, persuading wine, punishing wine, etc., have clear etiquette norms, as well as the supervision of drinking by the government, are managed by the liquor supervisor and the history of wine, and it is not allowed to drink excessively, and it is not allowed to lose etiquette, and the violators are punished, while showing the emperor's honorable status, but also maintaining the ruling order of the imperial court. Just as Bai Juyi sighed in "Uncle Sun Tong Ding Dynasty Ceremony": "The preciousness of one person is the honor of knowing all the multiplications." The grand and well-mannered banquet, the atmosphere was solemn and serious, emphasizing the difference between kings and subjects, alienating the feelings of kings and subjects, so that the wine widely drunk in the Han Dynasty served as a medium for maintaining and harmonizing the monarchs and courtiers. The Han Dynasty actually inherited the Zhou Li in essence. [26] Not only the inheritance of the relationship between "rank" and "dignity and inferiority" of the Zhou Li, but also catalyzed by wine, gradually get rid of and dilute the ceremonial color in the drinking banquet, no longer abide by the ancient precepts of drinking with a degree, the wind of humility is reduced, and the pursuit of spiritual enjoyment is turned, drinking occasions can be seen everywhere, drinking forms are colorful, the wind of drinking up and down is prevalent, with wine to help entertain, song and dance to help entertainment, more than a layer of bold, happy wind, from one side to show the public form and social atmosphere of the Han Dynasty, In the traditional Chinese drinking customs, it has played a role in inheriting the past and enlightening the future. Many of today's drinking customs originated in the Han Dynasty.
The development of wine culture in the Han Dynasty made wine and banquet more and more closely combined, the so-called meeting of hundred gifts, non-wine can not do, making wine become the soul of the banquet. Han Dynasty wine and drinking feast are closely combined, which paints the same symbols for the drinking banquet and wine banquet in later generations, making drinking an important part of the Han Dynasty drinking and banquet culture.
(2) The mode of drinking and feasting has gradually changed from the stage of sitting and eating to the stage of sitting and eating in bed
Nowadays, china's drinking and feasting are mostly carried out in the form of high tables and chairs, and eating around the table, which is very different from the ancient way of sitting on the ground and eating separate meals in China. The earliest drinking feast was carried out at the feast, so it is also called the feast, the feast feast. China's drinking and feasting methods mainly went through the initial period——— the feast stage of setting up a feast, sitting and sharing food, the transitional period ——— the stage of sitting and sharing food with a hu bed (tatami) as the center, and the stage of ——— standing chair high table and sitting and eating table during the stereotyping period. Before the Qin and Han Dynasties, drinking and feasting were in the feast stage, when there were no high stools and chairs, people set up feasts, sat on the ground, and ate separate meals; During the Wei and Jin Dynasties and the Sui and Tang Dynasties, indoor seats began to increase, beds and beds slowly rose, and people's lives transitioned to bed-based and bed-centered, enclosed dining; After the Northern Song Dynasty, the sitting on the foot was replaced by the seat on the floor, and people's daily life began to be centered on tables and chairs, and the way of feasting and drinking was gradually fixed to eat around the table.
In the Han Dynasty, the drinking feast was a seated meal, following the pre-Qin tradition, sitting on the ground, one person or two people in one case. Enter the table to get out of the table as a sign of respect and formality. The scale and grade of the banquet are roughly commensurate with the status of the guests, because of different knightly ranks, different forms of drinking and banqueting are used, such as Yan ceremony, feasting ceremony, and township drinking ceremony, but the difference in rank has been vastly different from before, especially not to distinguish between the amount of food and drink, the nobility and inferiority, the increase in civilian meat, the prevalence of alcohol, and even the Eastern Han Dynasty Guangwu Emperor canceled it because he considered that the peculiar smell of rare birds would consume a lot of manpower and financial resources. In Ban Gu's "Dong Du Fu" and Zhang Heng's "Tokyo Fu", there is no longer the phenomenon of drinking and feasting that is precious and precious as depicted in the early stage, and the beautiful food of the treasure is downplayed, and the joy of the guest and the host is repainted.
Since then, under the influence of the Western Regions and Buddhism, seats such as beard beds and beds have been increased and began to be widely used, and people's sitting postures have changed, while maintaining the etiquette between meals, the way of eating has also changed.
At the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty, the emergence and common use of elevated seated Hu bed (tatami) marked the beginning of the evolution of living customs in China, after that, the mat gradually retreated, the hu bed (tatami) gradually became the center of people's activities, and the way of sitting and eating for one person and one seat gradually transitioned to the way many people gathered around the meal, so there was a difference between the number of tables and the number of seats. The number of seats is superior and inferior, and gradually from the other directions of the hall and room, to the seat with the front door as the upper, the center positioning, and the seat away from the stall (serving the dish), and the relationship between the host and the guest is reflected in the distance from the host and the difference in the left and right orientation.
(3) A pattern of difference in the order of reconciling humanity with drinking and feasting has been constructed
The Han Dynasty inherited the Qin system, drew lessons from the harshness of the Qin Dynasty' law, no longer simply imposed the law and harsh government, but used the law as the backing, practiced moral government, attached equal importance to the Yi people and foreign countries, treated the clan relatives and the subjects harmoniously, and gave grace to the broad masses of the people, so as to enwei the foreign nationalities, close the monarchs, and gather the people, and built a pattern of discord in which people were reconciled with drinking and feasting.
1. Show off the power of the country and show off the power of foreign countries
After the Foreign Clan met the Heavenly Son, the Tianzi banquet was indispensable, the famous dishes of the famous chefs in the world, the special taste of the localities, the grandeur of the food, the abundance of food and drink, the strong visual impact on the envoys of the Outer Domain, the extremely high specifications, the grand scene, the complicated etiquette, the orderly and orderly civil and military escorts and service personnel, silently conveyed the strong national prestige and orderly governance to the Foreign Clan personnel, and gave a strong spiritual shock to the Yi foreign countries attending the banquet, and the drinking banquet became an effective way for the king to show strength and strength to the Foreign Domain. According to the "Book of Han and the Biography of Dawan Lie", Emperor Wu entertained the merchants from all frontiers who came from afar, in addition to entertaining them with horns, and also "set up wine ponds and meat forests in the palace to entertain the guests of the Four Yi". Thus "the arrival of the great, the strange drama of the monsters, the gathering of many spectators, the rewards, the wine pond meat forest, so that foreign visitors can see the accumulation of the warehouses, see the vastness of the Han, and be horrified"[28], which amazes the exotic guests.
2. Harmony of the clan, close to the courtiers
In the Han Dynasty, the uncles and grandsons were strictly hierarchical after the ceremony, and the boundaries between kings and subjects were clear, and for the sake of harmonious relations between the upper and lower levels, the Yan feast of heavy harmony and kinship often became the preferred method. The Book of Han and the Biography of Dou Infant records That Emperor Jing entertained his mother and brother at his family banquet: "Emperor Xiao of Liang, Empress Dowager Dou loved him. Filial piety dynasty, because Yan Kundi drank. It was time to make a prince on the throne, drunk, and shang calmly said: 'Long live the king after a thousand autumns.' 'Empress Dowager Huan.' The infant introduced the wine into the upper part: 'The one under the heavens, the high ancestor of the world, the father and the son, the covenant of Han, how can the king of Liang be passed on!' The Empress hated babies. [29] This Yan feast was due to Emperor Jing's drunken gaffes, and Dou Bao's blunt words provoked the empress dowager's hatred, but from the side, it shows that Yan feast is a common way of harmonious clan relations. Similarly, "Emperor Huanhuan, Qunchen Drunk" in "Dongdu Fu" and "Junchen Huankang, Drunk and Smoked" in "Tokyo Fu" both show the scene of the monarch and his subordinates drinking and drinking and resting. During the feast, the Son of Heaven treats the courtiers with high-level etiquette, and the courtiers return the Sons of Heaven with drunkenness to show their allegiance to the Son of Heaven, and the relationship between the two sides is improved through the feast, enhancing the emotional exchange between the two sides.
3. Give wine to the people
After the fall of the Qin and Han dynasties, the "gift of the wine" is usually related to the major political events of the dynasty. Compared with other drinking behaviors, it is a kind of super-large-scale social group gathering and feasting activity with a wide range of popularity, enjoying with the people, and lasting for several days. In Kyoshi, Tianzi often came to the scene and directly participated in the activities of giving and giving, in order to give Zhiqing and push grace, embodying the idea of "peace in the sea, wanting to be happy with the people"; In the local area, it is a collective food gathering of the neighbors of Lilu or the township party clan. Elderly people in the townships are feasted and eaten by the government. The imperial power used various wine and banquet methods to show its external prestige and foreign countries, and to attract subjects internally, and built a pattern of drinking and feasting and reconciling human morality.
With the development of social and economic development, the quality of life of the Han Dynasty people was greatly improved. As a medium and means of social interaction, the frequency of drinking banquets has increased, and the etiquette and related customs of drinking banquets are both in the same line and rich in the characteristics of the times, gradually reaching a higher civilization, and people have begun to pursue spiritual enjoyment while satisfying material life. Drinking and feasting has become the practice of enjoying optimism, which is the symbol and concentrated embodiment of the social culture at that time, which not only reflects the progress of social civilization, but also marks the formation of Chinese food culture and feasting etiquette for thousands of years, and many customs have been inherited for thousands of years and are still preserved in our daily lives.
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