So beautiful~
Source: Art & Design
ID： artdesign_org_cn
Author: Department of Arts and Design Media
Edit: Nini
What is the most watched event at the Winter Olympics?
Of course, it is a figure skating known as "ballet on ice"!
The athletes who participate in the figure skating project are all beautiful and comparable to stars.
The clothes they wear are more beautiful than one.
In the ice and snow feast of the Winter Olympics, there are too many fairytale beauty.
Habu knot is the most interesting prince in this fairy tale.
At the Pyeongchang Winter Olympics, when Yu Sheng finished his performance, CCTV commentator Chen Ying praised in poetic language: "Face like jade, posture like pine, flying like a surprise, graceful dragon, Sochi Winter Olympic champion in the Pyeongchang cycle to face the challenge of the young generals around me, reminds me of a sentence - fate, whisper to the warriors: you can't resist the storm." The warrior whispered: I am the storm. Habu knots the strings, a player who does not wait to whip himself. His achievements today deserve the full standing ovation of the audience. ”
Especially yesterday, everyone's favorite Yusheng Yu string also brought his Beijing Winter Olympic debut ~ although there was a mistake in the beginning, Yusheng still perfectly completed his later performance.
Unlike the "violent aesthetic" of other men's singles players, Yu yu is like a white crane on the ice rink, with a light posture and a smooth glide.
In addition to his strong artistic expression, which can produce this ethereal and aesthetic effect, it is also inseparable from the beautiful clothes he wears. The white and blue rendering of the base color with golden rhinestones, put on like ice elves, in the arena also emitted the light of Bling Bling.
In fact, the figure skaters have a uniform name, called Costen, which is the Chinese translation of The English Costume.
Designed by Satomi Ito
As a sport that is both artistic and skillful, Kausten has played a very big role in figure skating. It can help athletes enter the characters and show the emotions of the story.
How important is Kausten? Every year, the International Skating Federation has an award called the Best Costume Award, which selects the best set of Kausten that year.
ISU 2019-2020 Season Best Costume Award Nomination
For figure skaters, Kausten is a trench coat and a comrade-in-arms.
Figure skating is a fusion of competition and art, and high-quality Kausten designs contain ingenuity and ingenuity.
Not only can the audience more intuitively understand the center of the program and the theme of the music, but also make the contestants more in line with their interpretation of the role, playing the role of "icing on the cake".
High-quality Kausten is inseparable from the designer's design
Tomomi Ito is a designer who can perfectly match the content of the costume and the track.
Her first design and production of costumes for Yu yu was in 2014's commercial performance Of The Final Time Traveler.
In addition to Yuzu, Ito Hassan has designed Kausten for many of the world's top figure skaters.
Kausten of Jimbo Yang's short program "Dawn" combines the imagery of "light", mainly yellow and white.
Kausten of the free skating "The Last Heartbeat" is mainly black, and the colorful patterns on the chest resemble the interweaving of static arteries, symbolizing the vigorous vitality.
Kausten, "Nobody Sleeps Tonight", worn by Masao Uno at the Pyeongchang Olympics, was inspired by the golden decoration on the dark blue pillars of a Roman church.
During the annual figure skating season (March to August), she has to complete up to 8-10 players' costumes a month at the same time, and it takes two or three months to complete a set of clothes, not including possible changes in progress of the season.
The International Skating Union (ISU) also has certain professional requirements for the design and production of figure skating competition clothing.
There are strict limits on the number of grams of fabrics, and even those blingbling jewelry drops will be deducted points.
The weight of the clothing of male players should be controlled within 850 grams, and the weight of female players should be controlled within 350 grams.
Therefore, the parts of the clothing that do not affect the function and design should be removed, the rhinestones should be treated as thin and fine as possible, and the cloth should also be selected for ductility and light weight.
Large-area embroidery and rhinestones are the design characteristics of Takumi Ito, which can show the three-dimensional sense and delicate luster of the garment.
《SAKURA》
《Gypsy dance》
"After deciding on the song and dance moves, I was commissioned to design the costumes, and I tried my best to follow their own faces, not a costume for everyone, but a special outfit for the contestant," she says. ”
Each piece of Kausten itself has its own life and story, which can be called a work of art.
The leader of the ice fashion - Habu knots
Although Kausten fashion has long been popular among female players, for most male players, their Kausten is still very boring at a glance, far less colorful than female players.
There was only one exception, and that person was The Feather Knot.
As one of the greatest players in the history of figure skating, Yu Yu's outstanding artistic performance is inseparable from his Kausten blessing.
( Image source: Weibo @Yuzkyoku )
Why does the Feather Knot String look so good in Kausten? Partly because he's thin. Habuyuki is 172 cm tall and weighs only 53 kg. He stood with his teammate Masamune Uno, and wearing the same coat could also see that Habu was going to lose a lot of weight.
On the other hand, it is because Yusei Yushin himself has a very good aesthetic.
According to incomplete statistics, since he was promoted to the adult group in 2010, Yusheng has worn more than 32 sets of various Kausten. He completely broke the dull and boring Kausten style of the past figure skating men's singles players, and made extensive use of elements commonly used by women's singles players such as rhinestones, becoming a leader in ice fashion.
For example, at the last Pyeongchang Winter Olympics, Yusheng's winning program was called "Yin and Yang Division". Therefore, when designing the costume before the competition, Habu Yushin requires the costume to be based on white, and at the same time, the pentagram symbolizing the yin and yang division is added, and the overall shape imitates the kimono hunting clothes of the Heian period.
The final effect can be said to be quite amazing. The golden belt feels solemn and solemn, which is completely consistent with the concept of "Yin and Yang Division". Habuyuki incarnated as Abe Haruaki on ice, and he did not lose his killing temperament in his ethereality.
At the 2020 Four Continents Figure Skating Championships, Yu Yu yu sang the "Yin and Yang Division". This time his Kausten was slightly different from the Olympics, and he also asked the designer to include a pentagram symbolizing the Yin and Yang Division. The cuffs of the garment are purple, gold, green, and white from the outside to the inside, and the order of this color is also specified by himself. The purple fabric on the chest is made of mesh fabric, which is up to 850g light, and the decoration of rhinestone (imitation gemstone decoration) is as large as 3,000 pieces.
In fact, friends who know Yusheng knot strings know that the Kausten style of "Yin and Yang Division" is less tried by Yusheng knot strings in the past. His most out-of-the-loop is some of the neutral style of the shape.
For example, this Kausten, known as the "feather jacket of the gods", was worn by Yusei in the 2020 All-Day Championship performance.
This pink-and-white Kausten was worn by Habu Yuki at the 2020 All-Day Championship, and the costume follows the Habu knotwing on the ice, and even though the ruffles are studded with broken diamonds, it is still light and beautiful, like pink cherry blossom petals.
The picture of dancing in the cherry blossoms has also become a classic in the hearts of many figure skating fans.
Without exception, these Kausten are designed to be short and long, the materials are light and thin to nearly transparent, and the blessing of rhinestones makes Kaustens sparkle.
Among them, this set of Kausten, which uses the choker element, is particularly special, which is also the first set of battle robes for the Winter Olympics, and the designer uses the choker to outline the slender neck line of Habu, presenting a fragile beauty.
And the expression on his face is particularly resolute, and the two contrast with each other, which perfectly reflects the characteristics of Yusheng knotted string figure skating performance.
In terms of Kausten, Yusei has always been bold in trying, especially when performing slippery, because there are not so many restrictions compared to official competitions. So there will be more variety in terms of clothing choices.
On the eve of the 2016 World Figure Skating Grand Prix, because the background music of Yusei's appreciation program "Starry Night" was the ballet "Swan", Ito Tomomi designed a set of Kausten for him inspired by ballet.
The design of the front and back are deep V and large slits, which is undoubtedly very bold for male players, but such a Kausten can only be controlled by Yu Sheng.
On the ice, the feathered knots also transform into noble and elegant white swans, spinning and dancing.
The feather design on the sleeves reflects the delicacy of the details.
( GIF material source: @ a )
As he grew older, Yusei no longer stuck to Kausten, who embodied his elven temperament. At the 2018 World Figure Skating Grand Prix, he surprised everyone with a black swan Kausten.
This Kausten uses lace elements, with more than 3,000 gold diamonds on it and more than 1,000 blue and purple rhinestones, making it a complex process.
( GIF material source: bilibili@ Japan Popular Daily Express )
The domineering blackness, the elegance of gold, and the sensuality of the skeleton lace are perfectly blended on this Kausten.
The Chinese style of the Chinese figure skating team is also great
In yesterday's figure skating team ice dance free dance competition, Wang Shiyue Liu Xinyu was dressed in green mountains and green waters.
The costume is based on Chinese landscape paintings, the male companion's shirt is painted with "Qingfeng Stacked Mountains", and the female companion's aqua blue skirt is like "floating clouds and green water".
Painted Chinese classical patterns, taking the intention of green mountains and green water.
Seeing this set of clothes, it is as if you have seen "A Thousand Miles of Rivers and Mountains".
They said: "Wearing this set of competition uniforms has a feeling of 'great rivers and mountains at my disposal', and I am even more proud to spread Chinese culture on the Olympic stage." ”
Another pair of pair skating duo Jin Yang Pengcheng's clothing ideas are also based on Chinese landscape paintings.
They performed the "Night Feast" suite, showing a beautiful ink landscape painting.
Landscape imagery is the romance and harbor that cannot be eliminated in the bones of the Chinese people.
And Kausten of Jin Boyang also made a deep impression.
"Crouching Tiger, Hidden Dragon" aqua blue Kausten, classical elegance.
A series of shiny sequins hung from the clothes, stretching from the chest to the back, like the flourishing branches stretching and extending, looking at the past, there was a feeling of ice and jade.
When I skate freely, i have a bright Chinese red, and I feel that this set of Kausten is running to receive the prize!
The female contestants' Kausten is more rolled up than the red carpet dress
Unlike the male players who only have Yu Sheng's string, the figure skating women's singles players Kausten can be described as a hundred flowers, competing for glory, and the degree of inner roll is not worse than that of female stars in red carpet dresses.
Most of the contestants are determined according to the theme style, but they will also be different due to the different personal styles and nationalities of the contestants.
It sounds very advanced and indeed very advanced classical style
The representative country of classical style is undoubtedly the figure skating hegemony Russia, and most of their women's singles small flower Kausten style is a typical Russian aesthetic, which is very rich in classical art.
Gorgeous is the most important feature of their clothing, but it is not a blind pile of elements, but has a very systematic exquisite aesthetic.
Of the three small flowers in the active Russian women's singles, Shcherbakova (Sherbakova) is the most matched with this Kausten style. Her father was a famous Russian physicist, while her mother was a geologist.
Born in a Kochi family, Sherbakova was gentle and elegant at a young age, and was affectionately nicknamed "Qianjin" by Chinese fans.
Each of her Sets of Kausten is beautifully designed, and according to designer Olga Rynbeako, more than 3,400 styling diamonds are often used on a Single Kausten.
During the European Championships appreciation performance, Qianjin surprised the audience with a song "Ave Maria" (Chinese translation of "Ode to the Virgin"). Her Kausten is added with glowing angel feathers, and the whole person seems to have come out of European mythology, like a dream.
Female players are handsome and there is nothing to do with male players!
Of course, there are exceptions to the big goose's figure skating Kausten style. Trusova, who ushered in a new era of women's singles jumping around, is an exception, and she is also nicknamed Sasha by Chinese fans. When she was a child, Sasha was like rapunzel in a fairy tale, beautiful and cute.
And as she grew older, Sasha also became a very individual girl, she not only practiced abs, but also played umbilical nails.
In line with this, her Kausten has also changed from a fairy style to a handsome and dashing style. Black is her common color in Kausten.
Less common cortical elements on the figure skating scene can also be seen in her.
This set of Wonder Woman-inspired Kausten, paired with her fiery red hair, is bold and cool.
Even if you occasionally wear some fairy little skirts, there will be bold designs, such as ties on the sides.
Is this Kausten a bit unremarkable from the front?
It looks completely different from the back.
It's also a bit like the one Zendaya wore at the Ballon d'Or before.
in Roberto Cavalli Fall 2000
The Chinoiserie style is yyds
As an Olympic event, it is natural to have clothing with national characteristics. Like our Chinese little flower Kausten is basically produced by the Beijing Institute of Fashion, and most of the style is a fairy feeling.
( Image source: Weibo @ Chen Hongyi Fans Station )
With light color as the main color, the color is often gradient, supplemented by rhinestones, tulle and other elements, which is very graceful beauty in traditional oriental culture.
Chen Hongyi is the representative of our local women's singles, and her Kausten often uses a lot of Chinese elements.
For example, this peacock-themed Kausten, if you look closely at the neckline, you will find that it is a very typical design of the neckline of the cheongsam. The whole is composed of silk, spandex and yarn, and silk is a typical fabric used by Chinese players.
Of course, I think her most amazing thing is this modified cheongsam Kausten, the buttons at the diagonal neckline have become flowers, especially with the charm of oriental beauty.
And this pale pink Kausten, the gradient design at the skirt is like a lotus flower with buds waiting to be released, jumping and rotating as if the lotus flower blooms, beautiful as a heavenly immortal.
Zhu Yi, a naturalized athlete who represented China at the Olympic Games, as a player with both Chinese and American backgrounds, her Kausten often can very well integrate the style characteristics of the East and the West.
It uses Chinese red as the main color, and has the enthusiasm and sensuality of the West.
Most of her other Kausten also feels this fusion of East and West.
In addition to our Chinese nationality players, there are also some foreign Chinese players who also like to wear Chinese-style clothing. Like Chen Kaiwen, who represented the United States at the Winter Olympics, her most amazing set of Kausten is this set of blue water sleeves of "Ten Faces Ambush",
The whole speech is not exaggerated, and it is not too much to say that it is like a dragon.
The purple Kausten she wore when she slid "Liang Zhu" was also very ancient, with a lot of embroidered flowers and butterflies, with the purple hair ornament on her head, classical and elegant.
Of course, the cultural identity of the United States is also reflected in her Kausten. The same peacock theme, her set of Kausten is obviously much warmer and bolder than Chen Hongyi's.
Who wouldn't want to be a little fairy?
The light and agile fairy style is naturally suitable on the ice rink with white as the main color, which is also the favorite style of Asian players, and Japan is one of the representatives.
The Japanese girl Kausten is more than a fairy. Beautiful colors and shiny rhinestones weave one brilliant girl's dream after another.
The soul of the Japanese fairy style is naturally indispensable to chiffon.
The most beautiful is this set of "Aurora", by designer Shizuko Orihara.
A coat of Creesten uses a lot of colors, embroidery, and gradient effects, but it does not look messy, but elegant and delicate, with a shiny headband, it is a perfect ice shape.
The improved kimono Kausten also comes with its own fairy qi.
After seeing so many beautiful figure skating Kausten, I don't know which set you are excited about?