Let's start with a reminiscence question:
Before this "era of celebrity endorsement" was bombarded, what brands could really combine fashion and celebrity for a second in your mind?
We can think of it right away, there is 👇👇
Dior's True Self Perfume with Chamez Theron (2015).
Gong Li's sentence "You deserve it"~
And (memory can't separate Cindy Crawford's blonde from this blonde watch) Omega....
If you think about it harder, you will be out of the fashion circle. For example, Pepsi's star lineup over the years, Haifeisi, and Wang Lihong's Wahaha advertisement of "loving you is equal to loving yourself".....
Fashion (especially luxury goods) is different from the FMCG industry after all, whether it is from the price of goods, the story behind the brand, history, the design inspiration of each season, the replacement of designers, unlike the classic formula of Coke can always remain unchanged, fashion has its changes every season. ... And the star, can it be fully expressed?
This topic will be put here for everyone to ferment. Let's take a look at the past fashion, when did you start to add celebrities, and how celebrities were embedded in the fashion circle step by step.
Who leads fashion before celebrities?
A: Royalty and nobility.
Stills from The Palace of Versailles: The King's Dream
For example, the history of French fashion originated from the Palace of Versailles, and we now ridicule "Versailles" because during the louis XIV period, the French court invested a lot of money in the field of art and fashion, and the "Sun King" who lived in it at that time and his courtiers and ladies directly led the fashion trend in France and the whole of Europe.
A clip from Dance of Kings
Is it purely because Louis XIV stinks of beauty? Of course not, he wanted to tell the world that he was a modern, civilized, powerful monarch, that he looked like a "mythical" Sun King, that clothes were his "costumes", that he was the means by which he expressed his identity. This is essentially the same as our self-image now blessed with luxury goods.
Whether it is the royal family or the nobility, their role in leading the fashion of the mass group is still small after all, and because of this, for a long time, fashion is exclusive to the upper class.
It was not until the 1920s that the "silent film period" gradually ended and sound films appeared. In that era, film was a very important spiritual activity for the audience.
Since movies can affect the spirit of the audience, they can naturally affect their emotions and aesthetics, so a new "spiritual leader" appeared in that era - movie stars.
Clara Bow was the star of the film of this period, and the movie that made her famous was called "It", so she was also called "It girl". That's right, that's the word we all say now.
She is a box office guarantee, and it is said that the films she has participated in can almost double the profits. And her outfit also directly affected the girls of the 1920s. It is said that she is very fond of using that charming big red lipstick, and her actor status and "star aura" give her more "power" to express herself (even if this expression may be a commercial operation), but she has also really influenced her female audience and female fans. Because women at that time wanted to be more out of line and more modern like Clara Bow, dressing was the best signal.
At this time, although there are stars, the connection between stars and fashion is still an undercurrent.
By the 1930s, movies had become the carriers of fashion. Fashion designers thought to themselves, instead of serving a regular aristocratic guest, rather than advertising in boutiques in a resort, why not let the movie star just put on my clothes and appear in the movie?
Coco Chanel worked abroad at LA in 1931
（PHOTOGRAPH © 1931 LOS ANGELES TIMES; DIGITAL COLORIZATION BY LEE RUELLE.）
The fashion designer who thought so was originally from France, and the designer who really did it was called Coco Chanel.
Gloria Swanson wore Chanel in the movie "Tonight or Never."
Ms. Chanel pioneered the design of film costumes for stars, initially in collaboration with United Artists, a well-known American film production company.
"Seven Year Itch" classic white dress style, Monroe wears shoes Do you know what brand?
There is also a brand that is famous for its film. His first shoe store opened in California, when the film industry in California was booming, and he became a shoemaker who specialized in shoemaking for movie superstars because of his exquisite craftsmanship learned from Italy, and he was Salvatore Ferragamo.
Movie stars led the way until the 1950s, and some of them still have an impact on fashion to this day. For example, Hepburn, Monroe, Elizabeth Taylor, Grace Kelly, Sophia Roland in this period, it is not an exaggeration to say that it was an era of "fairy fighting".
At that time, although it was already a star leading the fashion trend, the connection between stars and the fashion circle would still be closer, and stars and fashion achieved each other.
Designers find inspiration and make creations from the works of celebrities; stars find their own style from the creation of designers... 1+1 > 2, so it can leave a classic that has influenced the trend of the times and trends.
Take Hepburn and Givenchy, for example.
Givenchy had a sample of last year's clothing, but just like it was custom-made for Hepburn
Hepburn's "Dragon and Phoenix Match" originally wanted to invite Givenchy to design it, but Givenchy refused her because he couldn't find time. Who knew Hepburn insisted, "Can you show me the costumes you have ever exhibited." Givenchy was not only surprised by her answer, but even more surprised that every set of clothes worn on He himself made Givenchy see the new life of this dress. Hepburn knew exactly what he wanted, and he also knew the strengths and weaknesses of his appearance and figure, and each set of clothes she picked was very much in line with her temperament.
It was givensty's classic costume designed for Hepburn that laid the foundation for the subsequent "Hepburn style"
The cooperation between the two in "Dragon and Phoenix Match" has become a good story. There is also a small story here, for which the film was nominated for the Academy Award for Best Costume Design, but another designer involved in the film's costume design, Edith Head. Hepburn was very angry when he found out, and said: "Every film I will make in the future will be designed by Givenchy for me!" ”
Because of Hepburn's words, the relationship between the two changed, and they later became close friends for nearly half a century.
It is precisely because of this that there is a small black dress in "Tiffany's Breakfast" that everyone knows later.
Nowadays, not to mention whether there is still an emotion between fashion brands and celebrity friends for each other's ribs, it is said that the designer himself and the star know each other, I am afraid that there are not many. If the foundation is like this, how can there be classic works that have influenced the aesthetics of generations of people?
Twiggy, a supermodel with a quirky look
In the 60s, in addition to the stars on the screen, more characters joined the ranks of "fashion idols", such as supermodels.
Rolling Stones lead singer Mick Jagger with his first wife, Bianca Jagger
Singers also began to become fashion icons at this time, and singers were more self-centered and avant-garde than movie stars. Not to mention, the rock music of the 60s and 70s flourished, giving people the feeling of untrimmed, haphazard rock musicians, becoming the messenger of "freedom" in the eyes of young people, and their way of dressing is to resist the rules and affect the aesthetics of young people.
If all of this is a bit far away for you, you must be familiar with the next one, because in the 80s, television appeared. Chasing drama and learning to dress is not only a fashion thing that our age did, but also a fashion that my parents did at that age.
Louis Vuitton's Fall/Winter '19 collection was inspired by Michael Jackson
At this time, there were idol superstars in the music circle, such as Michael Jackson and Madonna, and young people all over the world were crazy about it. Madonna we've said it many times, but don't ignore it, Jackson is also the one who caused the fashion storm. For example, the leather jacket and leather pants he wore, only a glove, white socks + black leather shoes, can still inspire the fashion circle.
Did you find it? As the forms of mass entertainment continue to change, stars have changed from black-and-white movie stars to Hollywood stars to TV stars; from idol singers to rock musicians to pop superstars... The impact of celebrity dress on the public, especially the younger, has never changed.
It's just that fashion is involved in a different way.
Speaking of the "endorsement" mentioned at the beginning of the palindrom, the first generation of spokespersons were actually athletes, and it was not until the vigorous development of mass entertainment that stars replaced the position of athletes and became the majority of endorsements.
And what kind of star can become a spokesperson? There is a basic FRED principle – Familiarity, Relevance, Esteem, differentiation. It then evolved to add a D, Deportment, which eventually led to the FREDD principle.
Take the Asian stars we are familiar with as an example, look at the FREDD principle above, you will know why the combination of stars and fashion in the 1990s and 2000s will make us remember:
In 1998, Jin Chengwu appeared on camera to shoot Prada's 1998 spring/summer series of advertising films, at that time Jin Chengwu had already filmed Wong Kar-wai's "Chongqing Forest" and "Fallen Angel", and also entered the Japanese market, producing his own records, images and works are not lacking, in the hearts of fans, Jin Chengwu is a "prince" general existence.
At that time, the brand's advertising was basically model appearances, and there were very few celebrities appearing on camera, prada also selected an Asian face, which also shook the fashion industry at that time. 1998 happened to be the year Cai Xukun was born, and 22 years later, he became Prada's other Asian face spokesperson.
Hermès' Fall/Winter 1998 collection was Margiela's first collection at Hermès
In 1998, there was also Maggie Cheung who walked the Hermès show. At that time, the design director of Hermès was Martin Margiela, who was always a maverick and did not use models on her Hermès debut, but instead looked for women he thought matched Hermes's temperament to wear clothes of her own design, so we saw Maggie Cheung. Although not a spokesperson, in the hearts of fashion lovers, this "combination" is definitely a classic in memory.
Yohji Yamamoto Fall/Winter 1999 Menswear
In 1999, Zhang Zhen and Liang Chaowei also walked the show, they were for the brand Yohji Yamamoto.
There is a perfume, in order to celebrate the world's brilliant sales record, the first time to invite Shu Qi as a global spokesperson, that is, Flower By KENZO.
Phoebe Philo and Faye Wong
Also, Céline and Faye Wong. She has been working together for more than a decade since 2004 when she participated in the Céline Spring/Summer 2005 show as a "best friend of the brand".
They are all "labels" with the brand, which can make the two images bind together without violation and embarrassment, and even transcend time to become classics, is this not a more advanced "win"? Find each other who "coincide", because the brand clearly knows which person is the most in line with the brand positioning and the most cherished, and the stars also have their own characteristics and differences.
Someone once described the fashion industry as one of the few most closed industries. All the historical fashions come from the good closure of the field, which limits the excessive competition of foreign cultural capital.
Before the 2010s, luxury brands, especially luxury brands, were very cautious in choosing brand friends and ambassadors, let alone spokespersons. What now? The relationship between fashion brands and spokespersons has become more and more simple and rough, just like love has changed from mutual understanding and mutual attraction to sliding left and right, and the whole circle is "love at first sight".
This world, where there is so much love at first sight.
Looking back at the FREDD principle above, we are becoming more and more unable to taste the marriage between celebrities and fashion brands, probably because the five letters in this principle are now only the first, and F does not represent Fameliality, and F stands for Fans. Let the celebrity/rice circle culture be poured into the fashion circle, and the fashion value originally established by a small group of people will be easily washed away.
As a fashion media, in the two years that the epidemic has affected our participation in overseas fashion weeks, one of the most obvious feelings is that the data is almost all Waterloo in fashion weeks without celebrities watching the show. It is supposed to make Fashion Week more like the original self of fashion design, but it is found that most readers who pay attention to Fashion Week are not focused on fashion at all.
Without the audience, there is no confidence in creation, media coverage fashion week has become a reporting star, designers have begun to change from the creators of the trend, gradually become the popular panderers, the media content is becoming more and more boring, the design between brands is more and more similar, which is not unusual.
Again, no matter how mass entertainment shifts its position, the "follow the stars to learn fashion" is not unique to this era, but the way fashion participates has changed dramatically.
As the "mythical story" of the traffic star ends abruptly before it reaches the end;
Celebrities' fashion style hair microblogs, exaggerated gorgeous, absolute beauty, can no longer say anything about the core of fashion expression;
Shouldn't the fashion industry also rethink its position and the way it works with celebrities?
There is no problem in borrowing the influence of celebrities to expand brand awareness and sales, and the nearly 100-year history of fashion has developed in this way. However, there is not only one kind of consumer/reader in this market. Perhaps the biggest difference between impulsive one-time purchases and loyal brand owners is that the brand value that the latter cares about often does not include star value.
Source:
https://www.vanityfair.com/
http://www.catwalkyourself.com
Reference Articles:
Shaping Beauty: Fields, Rights, and Alchemy
"There's a Camaraderie Called Givenchy and Hepburn"
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Image source: Visual China \Network\Invasion and Deletion
Written by: Teresa
Vision: Alare
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