丨 This article was originally produced by Xiao Chen Tea
丨 First published in the headline number: Xiao Chen Tea Affair
丨Author: Village Gu Chen
《1》
There are a lot of amazing foods in this world.
Tropical durian, Beijing's bean juice, Hunan's stinky tofu, Liuzhou's snail powder...
They all have a unique taste.
But the characteristics are all the same, not only the taste is strange, but also the polarized audience.
Either the love is so deep that at 3 a.m. there are people scratching their hearts and wanting to eat.
Either hate it, criticize it to the point of being out of the ordinary, and "blacken" it every time it smells.
I remembered a video I recently swiped.
At the beginning of the video, the blogger made her position clear, "Fragrant tea must be sweet, if it is astringent, it is fake incense"
A simple 3 sentences, 18 words, let people find 4 problems.
First, does it smell fragrant and taste sweet?
Second, is the sweetness of the aroma and taste of tea a concept?
Third, why is the tea soup astringent?
Fourth, what is "fake incense"?
《2》
Foods that smell good don't have to be sweet to the mouth.
First of all, the aroma and sweetness are not the same.
Incense is the organ of smell, sweetness is the organ of taste, something fragrant, it may be salty, spicy, fresh, and so on.
Just like the common roast, isn't it fragrant? But people eat salty.
I think that the aroma of grilled meat is because I love to eat meat, so it is "fragrant".
So this aroma molecule is an objective existence that causes the pleasure of subjective feelings.
Like perfume again, can you be sure that it is sweet?
Of course not, not even the entrance, the perfumes on the market are usually made of chemicals such as water, essential oils, and alcohol.
The substances in the perfume are not recommended to be eaten, and if you dare to drink directly, you can only worship.
But cherish life, or do not risk trying as well, since you can not drink, let alone the taste of sweet and sour, bitter and salty.
Therefore, just by smell, you can't make up your mind about the taste of a tea.
《3》
The aroma of tea and the sweetness of taste are not a concept.
The aroma of white tea is presented in a manner, with dry tea aroma, cover incense, falling water fragrance, hanging wall incense, and leaf bottom incense.
According to the type of smell, it is divided into milli incense, floral fragrance, herbal incense, Chen xiang, bamboo leaf incense...
For example, dry tea aroma refers to the hot pot after warming the cup, put in the dry tea, gently shake the lid bowl, open the lid to smell the aroma of tea.
For example, after the soup is out, smell the incense while it is hot, and after the lid cools slightly, a different aroma will appear.
For example, the fragrance of falling water is the fragrance of tea falling into the water, tasting it in small sips, and feeling the fragrance of falling water of tea soup.
For example, hang the wall incense, and after drinking the tea soup in the cup, put the tea cup close to the end of the nose and smell the aroma inside the wall of the cup.
For example, the leaf bottom incense, as the name suggests, is the aroma of the leaf bottom after brewing.
The above aromas are felt by the olfactory organs, and have nothing to do with the taste buds, how can the aroma and sweetness be linked.
Some tea friends will think that it is not said that the fragrance of falling water is the aroma that is felt after tasting?
No, no, no, the fragrance of falling water is also smelled, not drunk.
The rich endoplasm in the tea leaves makes the aroma rich, not only on the lid, but also falls into the soup water, forming a falling water fragrance.
When the tea soup is introduced, the aroma spreads upwards, through the nasal cavity that feels the aroma, it is conveyed to the olfactory nerve, which is the perception of the fragrance of falling water, rather than relying on the taste buds in the mouth to taste it.
《4》
The tea soup is bitter, and there are 3 reasons for the root cause.
Poor production area, imperfect process, improper brewing.
Near Zhu is red and close to ink is black, and good production areas can allow tea to accumulate sufficient taste substances.
You know, for every 100 meters of elevation increase, the temperature drops by 0.6 °C.
On the contrary, areas with low altitude and high temperature, such production areas, are generally called flat tea plantations.
At low altitudes, there are no thicker clouds, and the sunshine is too strong, burning the tea green, resulting in the delicate tea green being sunburned.
At high temperatures, a large amount of bitter substances are accumulated, so the tea soup brewed in this way is of course bitter and astringent.
The process of white tea is mainly withered and dried, but even the simplest process also tests the craftsmanship of tea makers.
If you are not careful, you may destroy the endoplasm of the tea leaves, so that its taste and aroma are greatly damaged.
Take the common withering of sunlight, for example, it pays attention to a thin spread.
If there is a accumulation of tea green, it will cause white tea to be unable to smoothly discharge excess water, as well as bitter substances.
The temperature of withering also has a great impact on white tea, and the high temperature will also sunburn the tea green, destroy the material structure, and finally affect the taste of the tea soup.
If the brewing method is improper, it may also make the soup taste bitter.
For example, smouldering.
The tea leaves are soaked in boiling water for a long time, and the soup is slowly produced, so that the taste substances are over-released, breaking the material balance, and the bitter substances pour into the tea soup in large quantities.
This is also one of the reasons why the soup is bitter.
《5》
Look at what the bloggers call "fake incense"?
Looking through the dictionary, there is no "fake incense".
Another self-talking, rambling blogger.
"Fake incense" is too blunt, there is no spreading power, and there is no such statement in the tea circle.
So what kind of aroma should a really good tea have?
At least it shouldn't have a miscellaneous taste, the aroma of white tea is pure, and the types of odors have been roughly listed earlier.
Milli aroma, is the innate aroma of white tea.
It smells like wild dog tail grass, and when dried, it is the smell of mature plant fibers, which is extremely refreshing.
Floral fragrance is the basic aroma of white tea.
The floral aroma of white tea is diverse and rich in layers, such as gardenia, lotus, orchid, jasmine and so on.
The growing environment is superior, the more aroma molecules accumulate, and drinking a sip of tea soup is like being in a hundred gardens.
Bamboo leaf fragrance is a smell that appears after many brews, the taste gradually fades.
It is like being in a bamboo forest, the newborn bamboo leaves with dewdrops, very fresh, the breeze blows, full of bamboo fragrance.
Finally, there is no doubt that the aroma of good tea is long-lasting and not easy to disperse.
All in all, incense is incense, smell is stink, but to create a "fake incense" is nothing.
《6》
The aroma of white tea relies on the sense of smell to discern.
The sweetness of white tea is the feedback of the taste buds after the entrance.
And not as sweet as candy, but as fresh as sweetness.
This sweetness has two forms of expression, either sweet in the mouth or hidden in the back sweet.
Like a white silver needle, the tea soup is introduced, and the sweet taste blooms on the tongue.
It's like taking a sip of mint water with honey, sweet and fresh.
The sweetness of hui gan is the sweetness that rises from the root of the tongue after swallowing the tea soup.
The sweetness of good tea is obvious and long-lasting, filling the entire mouth and exhaling like an orchid.
This is all the sweetness that a good tea should present.
In any case, the aroma and sweetness of white tea should not be confused.
Aroma is aroma, sweetness is sweetness.
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Xiao chen tea village gu Chen, columnist, tea industry original new media "Xiao Chen tea matter" chief writer, has published a white tea monograph "White Tea Tasting Notes", 2016-2020 has written more than 4,000 original articles.