When it comes to Tianjin breakfast, everyone often thinks of pancake dumplings first, and the "Gaba cuisine" that is also in the same door as the pancake dumpling master and also occupies a place in Tianjin breakfast has not been well known and accepted by people all over the country. Whether this is a distortion of early age or the loss of food, this article will reveal the truth for you.
Buns, pancake dumplings and gaba dishes
01
Gaba dish
/ Where is Gaba? /
Even as a Tianjin native, when I first heard about "Gaba cuisine", I often couldn't hope for righteousness. Gaba? Or a dish? What is it?
After this, when I saw that the orthography of Gaba cuisine turned out to be "pot food", I had an association in my heart: it was originally a dish made of crispy pot, and I took a bite of it. If you have seen the Chinese small boss in your childhood, you will think of the spherical pot with filling.
Pot ball
These fantasies will be ruthlessly shattered after entering the Tianjin Morning Shop for the first time and ordering a bowl of pots and pans. "What about my pot? What about my crispy big bowl of pots and pans? What is the hell with this bowl of yellow noodles pouring marinade? Then I saw the uncles and aunts who were eating right next to me smiling, "Another one who has never seen a pot dish."
Pot dish
02
Pancake dumplings
/ "Fellow Disciples" /
So what exactly is pot dish? And how is it made?
Speaking of which, there is also a brother of the same door, that is, the king of tianjin's early breakfast world - pancake dumplings. The reason why they are brothers is because they are all derived from the "Shandong Pancake".
Tianjin, as a waterway wharf for modern maritime transport, has attracted a large number of merchants and laborers from all over the world, many of whom are Shandong brothers, bringing local delicacies - Shandong pancakes. Shandong pancakes originally had two different ways of eating them in rolls and eating them in soup. These two are also the prototypes of pancake dumplings and pot dishes.
Shandong pancakes
Of course, while absorbing the Shandong pancake eating method, the Tianjin people have also made some improvements according to their own tastes: changing the mixed grain noodles to mung bean noodles to make it more refreshing, and adding some millet noodles to increase toughness. This is the originality of the Tianjin way of eating, and the pancake dumplings and pot dishes reflect this.
However, pancakes with pancake dumplings are also slightly different from pancakes in pot dishes.
Pancakes with dumplings, the batter is spread out thicker, and then one or two eggs are pounded, and eaten hot, the taste is relatively soft;
Pancakes with buns
Pancakes of the pot dish are spread thinner, without eggs, very tough when peeled off from the pan, to be cooled back to soft and then cut, cut and then air dried and stored, so that it can maintain a certain elasticity after pouring the juice, and will not be quickly soaked soft.
Gaba is a term used by Tianjin people to describe "air-dried viscous substance". The viscous batter spread is dried into slices, echoing the word gaba. From this point of view, "pot dish" is actually a name attached to it.
03
Noodles + noodles
/ "Carbohydra" /
Some people say that pancake dumplings are carbohydrate bombs, all because pancakes and dumplings are starchy, "noodles wrapped", plus fried, the heat is amazing.
In fact, why is the pot dish not "dough pouring"? The thick marinade, full of aroma, attracts passers-by in the cold wind, which is simply an invisible sign of early paving. In the cold morning in the north, workers who have physical work to do, eat a bowl of hot pot vegetables, can feel the warmth from the lungs all morning, warm their bodies and stomachs, this is the credit of "noodles".
The aroma of the marinade comes from star anise, cloves and coriander root. Stir-fry the sauce first, burn sesame oil in the pot, add green onion, ginger, coriander root, fry until golden brown, under the star anise, cloves, noodle sauce, soy sauce, after opening the pot, the sauce is marinated. Then boil the water, add salt and marinate before the sauce. After the pot is boiled, add soy sauce, large ingredient powder, five-spice powder, ginger powder, alkali noodles, and finally add water dough powder. The production of the marinade is a test of the craftsmanship of the early shop master, because the hook is not good and it is easy to spread. A good pot dish, eat the marinade at the bottom of the bowl to eat it at all.
When eating, instead of pouring brine, you put willow leaf pancakes on top of the marinade, and after the marinade wraps the pancakes, you can put the curd milk and onion oil poured with water, and you can also add chili oil and chopped coriander according to the taste. The pancakes are tender yellow, the marinade is amber, and then decorated with pink, light brown, emerald green and bright red, which is delicious and beautiful, so it is an authentic Tianjin pot dish.
In addition to this, there are some special marinades. Writer Tang Lusun mentioned in the article "Pot And Vegetables": "At the mouth of an alley in the French church on the green tram road, the brine is a slice of fat lean meat, plus yellow flower fungus, hooked out, that is much more delicious than vegetarian brine." ”
The green tram road is now Binjiang Road, and the hutong mouth is now Liaoning Road, and this morning shop is called Wan Shuncheng.
Some friends may ask, can there be any authentic pot dishes? Of course.
Some are very perfunctory, and the pot is poured with the marinade of tofu brain. Even more excessive, sold out early, add some shredded meat and dried tofu, and use this marinade for the midday noodles. For such an early shop, the old Tianjin people are scornful, and they will never queue up at the door in the morning.
On February 1, 2019, the Tianjin Catering Industry Association issued the "Tianjin Pot And Vegetable Production and Processing Technical Specifications". In this way, in the matter of pot dishes, whether it is official or private, the old food has seen the same thing.
04
There are also outside of Tianjin
/ but not exactly /
Such a simple and delicious breakfast snack as pot dishes, of course, there are "isomers" in other parts of the country.
For example, there is a kind of willow leaf soup in Beijing, which is to cut the noodles into willow leaf shapes, onion, ginger, garlic and garlic pot or pour the pot, add water into the noodles, and do not hook the noodles. This product was previously used for suppers, but was commonly used in funerals to fill the hunger of monks and nuns who chanted the sutra overnight. Of course, the monks do not eat spices, and the pot is exempted.
For example, Huaiyang cuisine has a "Pingqiao tofu", which is a soup made of chicken breast, mushrooms, sea cucumber, dried shrimp and dried scallops, which is cut into small willow leaves (tongue-shaped), and is made of starch. From the appearance point of view, there is a certain similarity with the pot dish, but it is not early, but a soup of the meal.
Hirabashi tofu soup
05
In Tianjin
/ Where can I eat delicious pot dishes? /
Writing here, I recommend several Tianjin breakfast shops to ensure that you can eat the original pot dishes. (In no particular order)
- Daifuku
The long-established state-run breakfast shop has a signature pot dish. The brine is very fragrant, and the pot is also chewed more than other places, and it is not greasy to eat with freshly baked bread.
- To the beauty of the fast
Beef broth is added to the marinade of the pot dish, which has a unique flavor. There are many kinds of breakfasts.
- True sincerity
Eating in Zhensucheng requires taking the number at the door, and giving the number to take the meal after entering the door, which has a taste of the last century. The taste of the pot vegetables here is very sufficient, and the aroma of sesame sauce and curd milk is strong, which is particularly enjoyable to eat.
- Xin Shuncheng
The pot is made of mung bean noodles, not soft or hard just right; the brine is thick and bright, the beating is salty and moderate, the thickness is moderate, and the sesame sauce, spicy seeds, garlic, and coriander are clearly colored and flavored.
In fact, the most authentic and delicious pot dishes in everyone's mind are often the one next to their own community. I saw a very interesting "Old Xing Early" near my house.
You may think, isn't this a farmhouse iron pot? Take a closer look:
A little closer:
This is the hidden Tianjin breakfast, and the aroma of food wafting with the wind is the biggest signboard. After all, every morning, the long queue at the door of the early shop is not deceiving.
Tianjin is not just pancake dumplings, come and try Gaba dishes!