Text / Wu Xiaobo
Before I came to my father at the age of 13, I lived with my mother's relatives in Ningbo and Shaoxing. In Ningbo I learned to climb trees and fight, and in Shaoxing I learned to swim. After studying in Hangzhou, my classmates gave me the nickname "Hong Kong Guy", at first I didn't know what it meant, but later learned Hangzhou dialect and understood that it was the meaning of "country boy". Hangzhou people ridicule people and never carry dirty words.
Hangzhou dialect calls itself "official dialect", which is very different from the surrounding Ningbo dialect and Shaoxing dialect, and the end of the language often has a "child" sound, such as "girl", "little boy", "juzier (play)", Hangzhou people call themselves "Hangzhou Lao'er", very much the taste of the ancient rhyme of the dialect, and this pronunciation is very similar to the Henan Kaifeng dialect. Hangzhou's local Ming Dynasty musician Lang Zheng believes that Hangzhou dialect is different from the pronunciation of surrounding places, which is the result of the Southern Song Dynasty's relocation of the capital.
Another big difference is that Ningshao people love seafood and river fresh, and Hangzhou people like to eat noodles.
In terms of Chinese eating habits, "southerner rice, northerner rice noodles", and Hangzhou's noodle culture is very developed. In the "Mengliang Record", the section "Noodle Shop" is dedicated to the various noodles in Lin'an at that time, including pig and sheep noodles, silk chicken noodles, three fresh noodles, fish and tong skin noodles, salt fried noodles, bamboo shoots and other more than 20 methods. In today's Hangzhou cuisine, there are "Kataer Chuan", "cat ears" and fresh shrimp dumplings, all of which are very famous specialty noodles.
Hangzhou's city is particularly heavy, like to chase fashion and hearsay, the locals jokingly called "HangerFeng", there are two proverbs that say this scene:
Hang Er Wind, will empty, good and evil, set up a case. Hanger wind, a handful of green onions, clusters of flowers, empty inside.
These are all words that ridicule the Hangzhou people's "pompous and vicious", but from the tone and wording, it is very similar to the Hangzhou people themselves invented to laugh at themselves.
Another one, Hangzhou people are not good at industry, especially willing to do business. From the Southern Song Dynasty to the Ming and Qing dynasties, many literati wrote that the people of Hangzhou were either "customary floating, seeking profit and chasing the end" (Southern Song Dynasty Zhou Shu), or "skillful and prosperous, vicious and provocative and happy to wander" (Ming Wang Shi nature), or "Hang customs and floating birthdays, light reputation and ruin" (Ming Tian Rucheng), more absolutely, saying that Hangzhou people are "men who are sincere and generous are not two or three, and women are mostly concerned about their mouths and stomachs, and they are not accustomed to female workers" (Yuan Tao Zongyi). All in all, the folk customs of Hangzhou are good at business, the pursuit of comfort and frivolity and luxury. It is a "golden nest", unlike a city "ruled" by Confucian sages.
One year, I was chatting with a local scholar in Suzhou, and he suddenly asked a very provocative question: "People say that 'there is heaven on the top, Suzhou and Hangzhou on the bottom', but since the Sui and Tang Dynasties opened the science and took the scholars, in more than a thousand years, our Suzhou province has produced 50 champions, and your Hangzhou government has only 15, why is there such a big gap?"
The question chilled the scene for several minutes. The number of Hangzhou titles is not only incomparable with Suzhou, but also inferior to Ji'an Province in Jiangxi (24 places), Huizhou Province in Anhui (24 places), Fuzhou Province in Fujian (26 places), and even Shaoxing Province in the same province (19 places).
When I wrote this book, I suddenly realized that the customs and personalities of the people of Hangzhou are probably inseparable from the more than a hundred years of the Southern Song Dynasty.
In 1091 (the sixth year of the Yuan Dynasty), when Su Dongpo left Hangzhou, he would never have imagined that after more than thirty years, it would become the capital of the empire.
In 1127 (the second year of Jing Kang), the Jin people attacked Beijing and the Northern Song Dynasty fell. King Zhao of Kang "crossed the river on mud horses" and wandered around Jiankang (present-day Nanjing) and Yangzhou, and also drifted to the East China Sea for a while. In 1129 (the third year of Jianyan), he upgraded Hangzhou to Lin'an Prefecture and designated it as "Xingzai", that is, the place where the emperor temporarily stopped, and this "temporary" was 146.
From the "Yiguan Crossing River" of the Eastern Jin Dynasty to the "Mud Horse Crossing River" of Zhao Shuo, the two awkward crossings brought about a decisive southward shift of the Chinese cultural and economic center. In this long process, Jiankang in the early stage and Hangzhou in the later period played the role of "stage center".
Unlike the several revivals and destructions of Jiankang City, Hangzhou has not been ravaged by war for more than 350 years since the city was built by Qian Wei and the Northern Song Dynasty and the Southern Song Dynasty.
* During this period, the Fang La Rebellion (1120-1121) and the Chen Tong Mutiny (1127) briefly invaded Hangcheng, but neither caused major damage.
Long-term peace brings peak prosperity. At its peak, Lin'an City had a permanent population of about 1.24 million, making it the largest city in the world. It was the Dark Middle Ages in Europe, and the largest commercial city was Venice on the Mediterranean side, with a population of about 100,000.
Today, we can still fully witness the whole picture and every street and alley of Lin'an City in that year, thanks to Jiang Qingqing, a reporter from Hangzhou Daily. I had known him for more than thirty years, but it wasn't until he took out that map one day that I realized he had done something so powerful.
In 1268, during the Xianchun period of Emperor Duzong of Song, the scholar Qian Shuyou compiled a "Xianchun Lin'an Zhi", which drew four maps of the "Imperial City Map", "Capital City Map", "West Lake Map" and "Zhejiang Map", indicating 1582 place names, which is the oldest extant map of Hangzhou. Unfortunately, the four figures are independent, and when spliced together, there are many blurry and blank places. Jiang Qingqing spent more than ten years to check the omissions and fill in the gaps, and then used computer technology to integrate and restore them, and finally achieved nearly 100% completeness and accuracy.
From the overall picture of Lin'an City, we can see——
Reconstructed on the basis of the mountain, it is located at the eastern foot of Phoenix Mountain, showing an irregular square with high west and low east. It is bounded by the southern section of the Middle River in the east, Phoenix Mountain in the west, Wansongling in the north, and Broom Bay in the south. The palace is built according to the mountainous terrain, the palace pavilions are stacked, and there are about 130 halls, halls and pavilions, and the palace walls are three meters high, and the week is about nine miles.
The imperial family dug up a "small west lake" covering an area of about ten acres in miyagi castle, and also built a taimiao temple in the eastern foothills of Ziyang Mountain, and in 1995, the ruins of the taimiao temple were discovered.
In terms of urban layout, The Southern Song Dynasty Hangzhou is the pattern of "Nangong North City", the imperial palace is in the south, the residence is in the north, and in the function of the market, it is "east cuisine, west water, south chai, north rice". To this day, there are still place names such as CaishiQiao, Chaimu Lane and Mishi Lane.
There are more than 80 lanes in Lin'an City, and the streets and lanes crisscross and cross, and there are hundreds of miscellaneous things along the way. In the center of the city, there is a royal street, which runs from the north gate of the Imperial City (now Wansongling) in the south, passes through Chaotianmen (present-day Gulou), Guanqiao (present-day Fengqi Road, Wulin Road), and turns west to Jingling Palace (now Huancheng West Road), with a total length of four kilometers and paved with fragrant cake bricks. In the meantime, three large market centers appeared, with a total of 414 rows, each row of about tens to 100 households, "pearls and jade treasures and flowers and fruits of the new seafood and wild game strange utensils, the world has nothing, all gathered here."
I read the meticulous "Past Affairs of Wulin" and also found that the Government of the Southern Song Dynasty at that time had already established a relatively complete social security system in Hangzhou, including the official-run Pharmacy Bureau, the Salesian Children's Bureau for the Adoption and Abandonment of Infants, the Sanatorium for the Poor and the Elderly, and the Leaky Garden for the Burial of the "Dead without Burial". Whenever there is heavy snowfall, the government will send "snow and cold money", and in the event of drought or flood, there is a supply of grain and rice for disaster relief.
At that time, Lin'an City could be described as "all the people are merchants".
Due to the political grief and repression and the prosperity of commerce and trade, two major forks appeared in the thinking of the Southern Song Dynasty, one was the theory represented by Zhu Xi in Fujian Province, which sought "the nature of the mandate of heaven" and "to remove human desires and save heavenly reason"; the other was the Yongjia school of Wenzhou Ye Shi, who opposed "emphasizing the root and suppressing the end" and paying attention to the "study of utilitarianism", believing that "if there is no utilitarianism, then the moral person is a useless empty language."
The two currents of thought went hand in hand, and the people in Lin'an City took what they needed, learning from Zhu Xi when they were studying for meritorious names, and saying Ye Shi when they sought a livelihood. According to the statistics of scholar Xu Jijun, at that time, more than 200,000 people in Lin'an were engaged in industrial and commercial activities, accounting for about one-third of the total number of urban residents.
From the Han and Tang dynasties to the Northern Song Dynasty, the capital city implemented a curfew system, while Lin'an "did not prohibit the night market". "MengliangLu" describes that Hangcheng Street, trading day and night, the night market opened to three more, tourists began to be rare, after the fifth change, the drum bell sounded, the lively morning market began again.
In 1202 (the second year of Jiatai), the 78-year-old old poet Lu You was recruited by the imperial court to revise the history books from Shaoxing to Lin'an, and he lived in the brick street alley next to the Royal Street, which is the downtown area, day and night, and the work that the old man was supposed to complete in 8 months dragged on for more than a year. He described in "The Book of Brick Streets and Alleys at Night":
The lights near the square are like daylight, and the wind blows in the east for ten miles.
The old poet who often "fell asleep on the iron horse glacier" should not like such hilarity, because he sighed at the end of the poem and said:
Du Yingu dispatched who listened, chatted with plum blossoms to part the night forever.
In the material civilization of ancient China, the most crazy love of all countries in the world is ceramics and silk. It has even been argued that in Europe before and after the Middle Ages, the word China was a pun on "China" and "porcelain".
Hangzhou's position in the history of Chinese ceramics and silk is very important. The "five famous kilns" of the Song Dynasty - Guan, Ge, Ru, Ding, jun, the first "official" is the official kiln of the special guide Song Lin'an. Silk is even more prominent, and the only Chinese Silk Museum in the country is now settled in Hangzhou.
Soon after the Song Dynasty fixed the capital lin'an, two new kilns were built, one under the Phoenix Mountain and one at the southern foot of the Turtle Mountain, which were made of purple gold clay and porcelain stones from the Turtle Mountain. As early as Wu Yueguo, the secret color porcelain of the Yue kiln has become famous all over the world, and as a large number of top porcelain smiths have moved south to Lin'an, a man named Shao Chengzhang presided over the firing of celadon in the Kiln of Xiu Neisi, making porcelain with clay as a mold, and the process is extremely exquisite. The porcelain glaze produced is lustrous and clear, and it was "cherished by the world" at that time, and it was difficult to find a tool.
In terms of aesthetics, the Southern Song Dynasty official kiln porcelain changed the majesty and heroism of the north and the weather, and turned into a leisurely and elegant, soft and weak, which fully reflected the sharp change in the temperament of Chinese literati. As Qian Zhongshu commented:
In his lifetime, the young man's talent was carried forward, so he became a Tang body, and the late festival thoughts were deep, which was stained with Song tones.
And then there's silk. Song Room Nandu, Fenjing's court AyaJinyuan, Dyeing Courtyard, Literary Embroidery Institute, Tailoring Institute and other workshops have moved to Hangzhou, craftsmen brought exquisite silk weaving and dyeing production skills, at the peak of the extreme, only the official brocade yard has thousands of employees, hundreds of looms, Lin'an City "the sound of the machine, than the household heard." Hangzhou silk texture is light and soft, the color is beautiful, the Ming and Qing dynasties so far, Hangzhou fans, Hangzhou umbrellas are still people's favorite things, the so-called "thousands of miles to Hangzhou, half for the West Lake half for the silk."
Empress Wu of Song Gaozong received a volume of "Silkworm Weaving Diagram", which consisted of twenty-four scenes, running through a long room, depicting the entire production process of silkworm weavers from "waxing moon bath silkworms" to "getting off the machine and entering the box", with a total volume of 74 people, household mu, several mats, silkworm utensils, and weaving utensils. Empress Wu loved it and added detailed annotations under each small picture. This map has been handed down to this day and is designated as "the best of the first class of cultural relics".
In the hundreds of years after the Southern Song Dynasty, Hangzhou silk was very famous overseas, and an important reason was international trade. The Southern Song Dynasty had economic and trade exchanges with more than 60 countries in Japan, Goryeo and Nanyang, and successively set up municipal affairs in Meijiaqiao (around the present-day Mercury Pavilion Garden) and Qingshui Gate (around present-day Nanxingqiao), and also built a workshop near Chongxinmen (renamed Qingtaimen at the end of the Yuan Dynasty) for foreign merchants from various countries to stay.
The silk brocade produced in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, with Lin'an as the trading center, is marketed in various countries, which naturally greatly improves the popularity of Hangzhou silk, and it has become a "silk house" often mentioned in the history books.
Lin'an City in the 12th century, if it is a picture scroll, its surface is gorgeous and noisy, while the background color seems gloomy and sad. The fall of the Northland and the threat of long-term aggression have left behind every joy in the city a lingering repression. Lin Shengti's poem in a restaurant outside the Yongjin Gate is a portrayal of this scene:
Outside the mountain Qingshan Building, the West Lake song and dance for a few hours. The warm wind smoked tourists drunk, straight to Hangzhou as a beizhou.
"Partial security" is a position of the Southern Song Dynasty regime in Chinese history books, but also seems to be a term exclusive to it, in the "Zhonghua" and "Central Plains" self-style, pay attention to "orthodox" and "Zhengshuo" in Chinese culture, "partial security" is obviously a concept that is more depreciated than praised.
For more than a hundred years in Lin'an, the emperors who lived in the narrow imperial palace at the foot of the Phoenix Mountain were like a joke. They were surrounded by the sounds of the "Northern Expedition" and "Northern Expedition" every day, but they had to pretend to be indifferent. And although those courtiers knew that this was an "impossible task", in order not to be written into the history books as cowards by historians, they must also make a sad and indignant appearance. It was a comical, long-term confrontation full of tacit understanding, which happened every day, gradually distorting the noble temperament of the city, so that everyone in the city shared a humiliation and depression that could not be cathartic.
Some of the urban personalities of today's Hangzhou people - the pursuit of ease, avoiding politics, keen on investment and trading and street talk, may be the foundation laid by the "Lin'an years" for more than a hundred years, and they have also branded the temperament of "partial security".
Partiality is a choice, ann is a gesture that provides a careful sense of security that ultimately constitutes the collective unconscious and way of life that belongs to all ages.
A city that is happy to be partial to peace is like an introverted and self-satisfied life, it lacks aggression, is not good at rejection, likes visible pleasure and enjoyment, cannot distinguish between simple and superficial, and regards "living" as the supreme standard of life. Hangzhou people are not without "bravery", but their bravery is hidden deeply and deeply, and it is a subtle bravery that only dares to confront time.
In January 1142 (the twelfth year of Shaoxing), Yue Fei, the empire's most famous anti-Jin general, was executed by Emperor Zhao Zhuo and Prime Minister Qin Ju on charges of "false accusations". The executioner slammed Yue Fei's ribs with an iron hammer, causing his internal organs to shatter and become extinct. The place of execution was at the Fengbo Pavilion of Dali Temple Prison (now West Ring Road). Yue Fei's death caused a great psychological shock in the official arena and folk of Lin'an City.
On the night of the tragedy, the jailer Kui Shun risked his life to steal the body and bury it at the water's edge at the foot of the north mountain outside the Qiantang Gate, where two orange trees were planted as a sign. When Kui Shun was dying, he told his son the secret. Twenty years later, Emperor Xiaozong of Song was yue fei Zhaoxue, and his body was buried under the Qixia Ridge, which was the future Yue Wang Temple.
In the following hundreds of years, the people of Hangzhou loved and worshipped Yue Fei more than ever, and they buried him in the best location on the lakeside, built the largest temple, and creatively cast four kneeling iron statues in front of Yue's tomb, the first of which was Qin Juniper.
Aoyama has the honor of burying loyal bones, and the white iron innocently casts a courtier.
Hangzhou people call fritters "fried juniper" to express their anger at Qin Juniper. Another special snack is fried fritters and shallots wrapped in dough cakes, pressed on an iron pan or fried until crispy brown, called "shallot bun juniper". Because Mr. Qin killed Yue Fei, he had been fried over and over in a frying pan by the people of Hangzhou for hundreds of years.
Author | Wu Xiaobo | When the value is edited | Zhang Wenlong
Responsible Editor | He Mengfei | Editor-in-Chief | Zheng Yuanmei | Image source | VCG