When we think of pasta, the first thing that comes to mind is ramen, knife-cut noodles, braised noodles, and other noodles that are more popular and have been "settled" throughout the country. However, in Yantai, in Penglai, there is also such an evocative authentic noodle dish - Penglai small noodles. Today, the protagonist of the series of reports on intangible cultural heritage is this famous snack that originated in Penglai and has been circulated for a hundred years.
Inadvertently insert willows, shouting "Penglai small noodles"
I believe that everyone who has been to Penglai has seen the weight of Penglai noodles in the dietary life of Penglai people. Walking in the streets and alleys there, from time to time you will see the storefront with the sign of "Penglai Small Noodles", "'Small Noodles' has become the first choice for Breakfast for Penglai people and an indispensable staple food for birthday banquets, wedding banquets and birthday banquets." Wang Fulu, the inheritor of Penglai's small noodles, said.
Although "Penglai small noodles" has become an indispensable staple food in three meals a day for Penglai people, it is still a bit of a "unintentional willow shade" when it comes to its origin.
"Penglai Small Noodles has a history of nearly 200 years, and its founder was a master named Yifutang in Penglai during the Qing Dynasty." Wang Fulu told reporters that Master Yi began to learn to cook at the age of 13, successively operated pick-and-hold ramen noodles, co-opened a restaurant with people that also operated small noodles, and later ran a "Yiji" noodle restaurant. "Penglai small noodles" originated from this noodle restaurant.
One evening, when the noodle shop in Yifutang was about to close, several guests suddenly came and had to eat ramen noodles. Yi Fu Tang looked at it, the reconciled dough had already been used up, and it was too late, and there were only a few dough blanks and a gagi fish left on the case, as well as the fungus that had been sent. Looking at these only few ingredients, Master Yi cleverly divided the dough into several bowls, boiled the fresh soup of boiled fish in the pot with peppercorns and large ingredients, and then added the seasonings such as jiaji fish, salt, soy sauce, drizzled with eggs and wet starch, and finally poured on the dough. After the finished noodles are served on the table, the guests who are clamoring to eat the noodles take a look, this noodle is more than faceted, and after tasting, it is smooth and delicious, and can't help but clap the case. Surprised by the delicacy of this noodle, the guest asked Yifutang what kind of noodles it was, and this question really made the yifutang difficult, because this was just the noodles made by Yifutang according to the only material, but it could not be said that it was nameless noodles, and the yifu master thought, This noodle is Shandong brine noodles, but the noodle blank is less than the Shandong brine noodles, so he said in passing, "This is Penglai small noodles." Since then, The Small Noodles of Penglai have been called open.
Inadvertently made, it became a local famous dish, and since then, Penglai small noodles have become the best-selling noodle dish in Yishi Noodle Restaurant. Because the workmanship and materials of the small noodles made by the clothing master are very exquisite, and only about 100 bowls are supplied every morning, which causes people in Penglai City and outsiders to regret that they cannot eat the small noodles of Yifutang for a while, and the small noodles of Penglai are also famous.
The noodle making process is cumbersome and the technical requirements are high
"The cumbersome process of Penglai small noodles, the difficulty of operating technology, and the high requirements are difficult to compare with other noodle operation techniques." When talking about the production of small noodles, Wang Fulu said so. In order to let the reporter more intuitively understand the production process of "Penglai Small Noodles", Wang Fulu made a bowl of steaming noodles on the spot.
"Make small noodles, and noodles are the most common kung fu, the hands should be loose, pay attention to three times water, three times alkali, nine nine eighty-one times kneading, water and alkali do not add enough at once, to repeatedly knead the process of continuous addition." While and noodles, Wang Fulu introduced to reporters the production essentials of small noodles, the noodles that are thrown down are not the same as the noodles that usually wrap dumplings and steamed steamed steamed buns, too soft and too hard can not be, too strong to pull, if too soft to pull out of the noodles without gluten taste is not good, "This and noodles are a technical work!" Wang Fulu said with great emotion. As the added water and the dough slowly blended, the dough gradually became a ball, only to see Wang Fulu quickly roll the dough with his fist and fold it, so repeat for nearly 5 minutes until the dough became soft and smooth. Subsequently, Wang Fulu covered the dough with a clean damp cloth, "Let the noodles wake up, so that when it is pulled, it is good to pull." ”
After 30 minutes, Wang Fulu put the already awakened dough on the board and began the second process of making small noodles - slip strips, which is the proverbial "shun tendon", that is, adjusting the order of the tendon proteins in the dough. I saw Wang Fulu put the dough on the board and knead it repeatedly until it became a thick strip, and hold the ends of the thick strip with both hands and repeatedly wrestle and pull on the board. After the strip is elongated, the two ends are folded in half into a figure 8 buckle and strip, and then leave the board, shake the belt to both sides, buckle and strip, and so on repeatedly shake many times until the face is smoothed.
The next step is "out of the strip", "the strip is the most difficult to master in the process of making small noodles, it is a very technical operation." Wang Fulu introduced. I saw that he first put the noodles on the board, sprinkled the noodles, and rubbed the noodles with his hands to make the noodles evenly thick. Then merge the two ends of the noodles in the left finger slit, the second time buckle, with the right middle finger down hook the buckle, palm up, both hands at the same time to pull to both sides, so repeated 8 times, that is, 8 buckles 256 into thin and uniform strips, so that the small noodles made are as thin as hair, smooth tendons.
Halogen is a feature, three points small noodles seven points halogen
Of course, the reason why a pasta dish can catch people's taste buds is because of its delicious taste. The deliciousness of Penglai noodles stems from its biggest feature: three points of small noodles and seven points of brine, which shows the importance of halogen in Penglai noodles. "Now our bowls for small noodles are generally exquisite small bowls, only holding very few noodles, brine accounts for most of the 'Jiangshan', the noodles are slender and soft, the brine is delicious, if you meet someone who can eat, it is also common to eat the next bowl in one bite." Wang Fulu said.
"The preparation of the small noodles is particularly exquisite, because the first bowl of small noodles in Yifutang is the brine made of the famous local Gagi fish, so the authentic Penglai small noodles have also been made of Jiaji fish." Wang Fulu said. To make the brine of small noodles, you must first make a soup, that is, blanch the old hen and the stick bones in boiling water, then put them in water and stew for an hour, then fish out and retain the soup. The fish is then washed, scaled, removed and removed from the fish and placed in the soup for 10 minutes. Finally, add green onion, minced ginger, black fungus, salt, pepper noodles, dark soy sauce, large noodles, soy sauce, wet starch, eggs, sesame oil, monosodium glutamate and other ingredients. In this way, the brine that directly determines the taste of Penglai small noodles is made.
Finally, the noodles are cooked and fished out, and put in a cold water basin to cool, at this time the noodles are bright and very strong. Finally, put it in a bowl, pour it with marinade, and a bowl of noodles with flexible noodles, fresh soup and steaming hot Penglai noodles is finished.
Because the reporter's interview was lunchtime, the restaurant run by Wang Fulu was already full of guests who were eating. The reporter randomly interviewed several diners, all of whom were office workers working in surrounding units, and basically came to eat a small meal of noodles at noon every day. As for the taste of small noodles, the old patron Gu Ge Jianjun has the most say, "I am an authentic Penglai person, I grew up eating 'small noodles' since I was a child, and I have eaten all kinds of ramen when I go to other places, but none of our 'small noodles' are delicious." ”
"Other ramen noodles are not as delicious as small noodles", this should be the best evaluation of Penglai small noodles, and it is also the best praise for the heir Wang Fulu.
Many efforts have been made to make small faces go to the whole country
Although there are many noodle restaurants that operate small noodles in Penglai today, Wang Fulu admits that there are only a few that taste good and authentic, "The wild gagi fish and other materials required for Penglai small noodles are expensive, the production process is cumbersome, and the chefs who pursue profits are no longer willing to learn the technique of throwing small noodles." Wang Fulu said that in addition, due to the unique taste of Penglai noodles, only local specialty materials are used, which can only be limited to one region, which also greatly affects the expansion of small areas to other regions. Over time, the traditional skills of Penglai small noodles will face the danger of being lost, and this is what worries Wang Fulu the most.
In order not to let this traditional famous food disappear in the long river of time, in December 2009, Wang Fulu organized and planned, and the relevant departments of the Penglai government, yantai skill appraisal center and culinary association jointly held the first Penglai small noodle special ability competition in Penglai City, and selected a number of "Penglai small noodle masters", which is of great significance to the inheritance of Penglai small noodle making skills.
Over the years, with the vigorous support of Penglai City, the relevant departments have also done a lot of excavation, rescue, inheritance and promotion work for the "Small Noodles of Penglai". In 2004, Penglai City allocated 100,000 yuan to establish the Penglai Gastronomy Association. Over the years, the Penglai Municipal Bureau of Culture has also continuously raised funds for census and publicity of Penglai noodles. Since 2008, Penglai City has also allocated funds for five consecutive years to support, protect and promote the production technology of Penglai small noodles. At present, the Penglai Municipal Bureau of Culture has declared the "Penglai Small Noodle Making Technique" as the intangible cultural heritage of Yantai City, which has brought unprecedented development opportunities to the "Penglai Small Noodles" and is facing huge market development space.
At present, Penglai City has begun to open Penglai small noodle training classes in technical schools, vocational high schools and other schools to cultivate inheritors and improve the level of Penglai small noodle making skills. Several Penglai Special Food Art Festivals have been held successively to promote Penglai noodles. At present, the relevant departments of Penglai City are exploring the implementation of the boutique and branding of Penglai small noodles, and exploring the establishment of a chain store mechanism to promote Penglai small noodles to the whole country.