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Guangzhou impression food chapter, the legend of chicken cake

author:Impressions of Guangzhou
Guangzhou impression food chapter, the legend of chicken cake

Brief introduction

Chicken cake is a traditional Han cake snack in Guangzhou, Guangdong, formerly known as "Xiaofeng Cake", created by a rich family named Xiao Feng in Xiguan, Guangzhou during the Xianfeng period of the Qing Dynasty.

Chicken cake is one of the four famous cakes in Guangdong. The appearance alone makes people fall in love at first sight: the petite figure, the oval goose egg face that slightly resembles a beautiful woman, shows an alternative beauty in the almost perfectly rounded cake bait group. The skin is thin and stuffed, and it is relatively crisp to eat; the thick skin is rich, resembling the chicken that is looking down at the old man Qi Baishi, a master of Chinese painting, which is crisp on the outside and soft on the inside, and very chewy. Take a bite, only listen to the "clucking" sound, the incense rushes out like a flood of broken embankments, and then take a few bites, as if detonating a spice library, the compound aroma bursts from the filling, so thick that it cannot be opened, until it enters the stage of deep chewing, and gradually distinguishes the spice of garlic, the fresh aroma of southern milk, the oil aroma of sesame seeds, the sweet aroma of fat meat... The biggest feature of chicken cakes is intriguing. It has depth, the more chewy the better, after eating hidden between the teeth, under the tongue, the corner of the mouth of the delicious aftertaste is still constantly radiating, lingering for a long time; it also has a breadth, staple food and side food, meat and vegetarian food, main ingredients, accessories, condiments, spices in one, integrated in a furnace, "Water Margin" "five flavor bottle" metaphor for chicken cake, appears monotonous, chicken cake is nothing more than a table of miniature feast! Therefore, it is suitable for tea, wine and even food, such a generalist, in the cake bait family can be called outstanding, people are favored.

Guangzhou impression food chapter, the legend of chicken cake

History and culture

1. Xiao Feng is Wu Ziyuan's maid and a native of Shunde. It is said that in the early autumn of the fifth year of Xianfeng in the Qing Dynasty (1855), the host Wu Ziyuan received foreign guests, and happened to be absent from the chef, so he instructed Xiaofeng to make a Cantonese dim sum for the guests to eat, and the family did not have any cooking materials for a while, so they went to Chengzhu Lou to rub the perennially stored Huizhou plum vegetables together with the Wuren cake filling (at that time, the moon cake season) was rubbed, plus the fat pork marinated with sugar, plus fine salt, spices, etc., wrapped in the crust, kneaded into a ball shape, slightly flattened, put into the stove and baked with slow fire until crisp, and taken out for hospitality. After tasting, guests deeply feel that sweet, fragrant, crisp, sweet and salty, salty and sweet, the taste is unique, so they appreciate it and ask what the name of this cake is. Since this cake is made by Xiao Feng, the owner casually says that it is "Xiao Feng Cake".

2. One day, the host Wu Ziyuan received a guest from out of town, and it happened that the dim sum master was not there. Xiao Feng took out the biscuits that were usually stored privately for hunger to entertain the guests, but the guests praised them after eating, and then wrote to praise them. In fact, Xiao Feng was just collecting the remaining dishes of the weekday banquet, adding some plum vegetables and pressing them into cake pieces, and then asking the dim sum chef to dry them on his behalf. I didn't expect this kind of cake to be loose in the mouth, very delicious. This unexpected discovery inspired Wu Ziyuan, so he ordered the dim sum chef to do the same, and named the cake "Little Phoenix Cake".

3. "Little Phoenix Cake" is considered to be the ancestor of the Liang family, and "Little Phoenix" comes from its chicken-like appearance. Later, when Chengzhu Lou registered "Chicken" as a trademark of "Little Phoenix Cake", it was intended to echo the folk custom of calling "Chicken" Ya "Phoenix".

Guangzhou impression food chapter, the legend of chicken cake

The little phoenix cake became a famous cake half a century later. Chengzhu Tea House was slow to sell mooncakes due to the Mid-Autumn Festival, and the cake-making master suddenly thought of making the raw materials for making mooncakes according to the method of xiaofeng cakes. Chicken cake with no less than ten kinds of ingredients, the weight of sugar accounts for 30%, plus a small amount of refined salt, pepper and five-spice powder, and mixed with ice meat (fat pork) and olive kernels, so that the cake body is crisp, salty with sweet, tea and wine, by the customer's unanimous praise. In this way, a new variety of "small phoenix cakes" was born.

Guangzhou impression food chapter, the legend of chicken cake

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