Wen 丨 Zhu Yan
Zheng Banqiao
"No duck can get out of Nanjing alive", a joke can see the significance of ducks for Nanjing people.
Autumn is a good time to eat duck. According to Liang Wujun's "Qi Chunqiu" quoted in the "Chronicle of Xuanwu Lake", during the Southern and Northern Dynasties, the Liang Dynasty army of the Southern Dynasty and the Qi army of the Northern Dynasty confronted and clashed with the Northern Qi army in the area of Fuzhoushan on the northern outskirts of Jinling.
The Qing dynasty man Gan Xi wrote such a thing in the "White Trivia": Feng Jinyu Thorn Shi Zhen in eastern Guangdong, overseas Chinese Ming Wa Lang, sexual love of ducks, all who go to a friend's feast and drink, must first ask for duck geometry to taste, it is said that "the duck armor produced in Jinling is in the sea, such as roast duck, sauce duck, white mix duck, brine duck, salt plate duck, water soaked duck and the like, at four o'clock each of them is victorious and beautiful." Yu so qiao yu is a state, and it is for this ear. "In autumn, in addition to the necessary brine duck and old duck shoot tip pot on the Nanjing people's table, don't forget that there is also a "duck paste".
This "duck confusion" listed by Yuan Ming in the "Suiyuan Food List" has a lot to do with Zheng Banqiao.
Yuan Ming was not only a famous literati in the Qing Dynasty, but also an old foodie who loved to eat and knew how to eat, although he was 24 years younger than Zheng Banqiao, he admired each other before the two met and established a deep literary friendship. Zheng Banqiao was very appreciative of Yuan Ming's talent, and there was a poem "Gift to Yuan Ming": "The beautiful woman Deng Quayaan in the room, jun has wizards, I am not greedy." In the "Qing History Manuscript Zheng Xie Biography", it is recorded that Zheng Banqiao heard that Yuan Ming was dead, and "Dun Shoucheng cried unceasingly." Yuan Mei also gave back the "Ming Mansion of Tobanqiao" to record the friendship between the two: "Zheng Qian has been famous for a long time, and he is very happy to see Xing Jiang. The short sideburns of the roundabout common pity are difficult to feel the width of Kyushu. The red bridge wine shadow wind lights chaotic, mountain left official sound bamboo horse cold. The bottom story was misinformed that Po Lao was dead, and Fei Jun's tears were empty. ”
Yuan mei
When Yuan Mei wrote the "Food List with the Garden", Zheng Banqiao had passed away. Yuan Ming cooked a dish in the following way: "Cook eight minutes with fat duck white, cold and boneless, break into natural non-square and round pieces, simmer in the original soup, add 3 yuan of salt, half a catty of wine, crush the yam, and use the pot as fiber." Add minced ginger, vanilla and green onion when simmering. "The duck cooked in this way tastes very good. But this dish is like a soup, why is it named? Yuan Ming remembered Zheng Banqiao's famous sentence of "rare confusion", and "confusion" happened to be a folk collective name for mixing things cooked in the pot, so he ordered his dish to be called "duck confusion".