The charm of the Tang Dynasty women's skirt The red dress is jealous of killing pomegranate flowers

In the summer heat, skirts become the first choice for ladies. Skirts have always been one of the most popular costumes for women, for thousands of years, the style of skirts has also changed continuously, the Han Dynasty has Liuxian skirts, Wei and Jin have daisy compound skirts, Danbi gauze double skirts, etc., to the Tang Dynasty, the skirt is more representative. Skirts were highly popular during the Tang Dynasty, and were worn not only by members of the royal family, but also by folk women. From paintings such as "Lady of the Hairpin Flower" and "Lady You Chuntu of the Lady of the Kingdom" and historical documents, we can see the importance of the skirt in the costume of the Tang Dynasty.

The dress was worn at first, not divided into men and women, before the Han and Wei Dynasties, both men and women could wear it, and Liu Xi's "Interpretation of the Name" of the Han Dynasty: "Skirt, 帬也, connecting the mantle also." It can be seen that the skirt at that time was a wide costume, and in the Tang Dynasty, the skirt was mainly used for women.

During the Sui and Tang dynasties, skirts were popular with women for many reasons: the skirt was wide, free to wear, and could be adapted to a variety of costumes; there were many styles of women's skirts, what shapes they wanted, what shapes they had; the skirt fluttered with the wind, there was a sense of elegance; the dyeing and spinning process was also very developed, and the colors of different styles of skirts were rich. In the Tang poems, "long skirts follow the wind pipe" reflect the social fashion of the time.

In the Tang Dynasty, the color of women's skirts was mostly red, purple, yellow and green, and women liked colorful skirts, of which red was especially favored by women who chased fashion. There are many verses that record the charm of the red dress: "The eyebrows win the color of the grass, and the red dress is jealous of the pomegranate flower." ”

Among the red skirts of the Tang Dynasty, the pomegranate red skirt was the most popular. It is a large red skirt made of pomegranate flowers, and the color is particularly bright, not like a pomegranate flower. The pomegranate skirt wins with color and is vivid and eye-catching. However, after five generations, the pomegranate skirt was once snubbed, and it was popular again in the Ming and Qing dynasties, and has been used until modern times.

The qian skirt dyed with madder, because of its bright colors, was also loved by young women in the Tang Dynasty, and Li Qunyu wrote in "Huangling Temple": "In front of the Huangling Temple, the sedge spring in front of the Huangling Temple, huangling daughter Qian skirt is new." ”

The color is crimson red, the skirt is like a lotus leaf, the color is bright, and the skirt that resembles the water hibiscus is called the hibiscus skirt, also known as the lotus skirt. Li Shangyin's "Untitled" poem has such a sentence: "Eight years old stealing the mirror, long eyebrows can already be drawn." At the age of ten, I went to qingqing, and hibiscus made a skirt. ”

In the Tang Dynasty, women's skirts were rich in color, in addition to red, daisy, and white, green and emerald colors were also boldly adopted. For example, green skirts, green skirts, willow flower skirts, etc. Brightly colored green skirts include emerald skirts and green skirts, the former is as green as emerald, and the latter is as green as jade feathers. Tang Ren Rong Yu's poem "Sending Lingling Prostitutes" says: "Baodian incense moth emerald skirt, disguised as a cloud to cover up weeping."

Du Fu has a verse that reads, "The grass sees the skirt of Luo", and Wang Changling once wrote that "the lotus leaf skirt is cut in one color", and all the songs are green skirts. You can imagine the young girl standing tall, dressed in a turquoise luo skirt, walking in style, and the style is elegant, which is really a delicate picture.

During the Tianbao years, women loved to wear yellow skirts more, probably influenced by Yang Guifei's love to wear yellow Luo silver mud skirts, and there is a sentence in Zhang's poem "Silver clay skirt reflects the brocade barrier mud", which is said to be a silver mud skirt.

In addition, there is also a certain market for dresses, white skirts, and green skirts, and Wang Ya's "Palace Words" mentions, "Spring wants to take gold powder, and the women around the tree palace wear dresses." Yuan Shu's "White Clothes" has: "Lotus silk shirt willow flower skirt, empty Shen Xiang slow fire kaoru." Lu Tong's "Feeling Autumn Farewell" also said: "Mo is like XiangFei's tears, and the spots are green skirts." ”

Because Women of the Tang Dynasty were accustomed to tucking the lower placket of the shirt in the waist of the skirt, the Tang Dynasty women's skirt appeared very long and could be dragged under the ground. "The skirt drags six pieces of Xiangjiang River water, and the sideburns tower over the Wushan Mountains", the Tang Dynasty poet Li Qunyu used Xiangshui as a metaphor for the length of the skirt, which is extremely long. The so-called six Xiang skirts are generally sewn together from six pieces of cloth, and some are even seven or eight. The circumference of the six skirts is about 3 meters, and the circumference of the eight skirts is about 4 meters, which is more fat than the long skirts of the Western court.

The aristocratic women in the Tang Dynasty's "Lady of the Hairpin Flower" wear long skirts made of splendid fabrics, the skirt is tied with brocade belts on the chest, and the wide hem is dragged on the ground. This wind was particularly prevalent in the late Middle Tang Dynasty, and by the time of Emperor Wenzong of Tang, it had been banned.

The Book of Tang records that "women's skirts are only five pieces, and the ground is not more than three inches, and The Huainan Observation makes Li Deyu order the woman's sleeves in the pipe to be four feet wide, one foot and five inches wide, and the skirt is four or five inches, minus three inches."

In addition to the rich colors of women's skirts in the Tang Dynasty, the styles are also very diverse, including striped skirts, gold silk skirts, golden skirts, etc., and there are Luo skirts, stone tooth skirts, yarn skirts, etc. from the fabric.

The striped skirt is made of more than two colors and fabric intervals, which was originally a product of the Sixteen Kingdoms period of the Eastern Jin Dynasty. Because the stripes can be intertwined with each other to form a variety of colors, the early Tang Dynasty flourished among young women, also known as the skirt, the flower skirt, after the Tang Dynasty, its system gradually decreased.

Pleated skirt refers to a pleated skirt. The pleats of the skirt are called "pleats", and the pleated skirt is the pleated skirt. Pleated skirts are often called pleated skirts and pleated skirts, and pleated skirts are usually made of several pieces of cloth, and the whole body is covered, from more than a hundred to dozens. The pleated skirt, which means that the skirt is pleated, is not made of a thousand pieces of cloth. In addition, there is a sheep skirt, with its skirt shrunk into a sheep intestine, commonly known as a sheep intestine skirt. This skirt was introduced to the Central Plains from Dunhuang.

In the Tang Dynasty, there were also skirts woven with wool or colored brocade, such as woven skirts, golden skirts, and bird feather skirts. Gold cutout skirts are generally made of soft silk fabric, coiled with gold thread, or set with gold edges.

The most amazing thing is the bird skirt. Volume III of the "ChaoYe Yu Zai" records: "Princess Anle made a hundred bird hair skirts, and in the future, the families of hundreds of officials and people will follow suit." Strange animals and animals in the mountains, searching mountains and valleys, sweeping the ground. "Princess Anle was born to Emperor Zhongzong of Tang and Empress Wei, with an indulgent personality and an arrogant life. The strange thing about the kind of dress she wore was the discoloration. The New Book of Tang records that" is as follows: "The right look is one color, the side view is one color, the day is one color, the shadow is one color, the shape of a hundred birds, and see in the skirt." ”

Although the bird skirt pushed the Tang Dynasty skirt manufacturing process to the peak, it was not a fashion that society should emulate at that time, and it was later banned.

For women's clothing, Li Yu of the Ming Dynasty has a very good insight in "Idle Love and Occasional Mail": "Women's clothes are not expensive and noble, not expensive and beautiful and elegant, not expensive and commensurate with home, and expensive and appearance." "The gist is to say that the one-sided pursuit of the luxury and wealth of skirts and costumes does not set off the nobility of the wearer. On the contrary, clean and refreshing, suitable clothing can highlight the richness and temperament of the wearer. (Source: Beijing Evening News Article/Huang Qiang)

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