-Fengwujun Language-
Don't eat turnips, you are a Nanjing native?
Everyone has their own authentic Nanjing taste in their minds. The most well-known is the duck on the table - "in Nanjing, there is not a single duck that can swim across the Yangtze River alive" is not a lie. Every duck here is born with the fate of being eaten.
In addition to duck, these Nanjing delicacies have also seen the world: the number one player is a beef pot sticker on "Tip of the Tongue". The second contestant is the crab yellow bun recommended by "Breakfast China". The third contestant "Stewed Raw Knock" comes from "Flavor of the World". In the downtown areas such as Nanjing big-name stalls, you can eat these three kinds of Internet celebrity delicacies, but you can't reach the depths of the soul of Nanjing people.
Beef pot stickers that burn all over Nanjing. Photo / Public account "Nanjing has a number"
There is a "deep hidden skill and name" ingredients, which are easily overlooked by foreign gourmets, that is, turnips that are plain-looking, dull-headed, and can be seen anywhere.
It must not be lacking in the most Nanjing food puzzle: a radish is not only about eating, but also connected with Nanjing, Nanjing people, and urban character.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="01" > eaten all year round, how "Rice" is Nanjing radish? </h1>
Eating duck meat is to relieve hunger, and to fill the flesh. Turnips, the emphasis is on the clear mouth, and the cultivation is the soul. The Nanjing people's penchant for turnips covers different species and is distributed in different seasons. In the local dialect, Nanjing people eat radish too "les" (meaning "powerful", about equal to "nice").
| spring" Yanghua radish "just in time
Poplar radish
Currently in season is the poplar radish, also known as "cherry radish", which got its name because it was catching up with the willow flying silk when it was on the market. Fu Baoshi's daughter Fu Yixuan, who has lived in Nanjing for a long time, has a lot of admiration for Yanghua radish: "After washing, remove the stems and leaves, gently pat it with a knife, and add sweet and sour cold mix to eat the best." ”
"Cold mixed poplar radish".
Ms. Fu recalled the scene when she was a teenager when her mother made radish rib soup: "My mother often used an open disc imitating blue flowers to serve, and the blue flowers on a white background were lined with rose-colored radishes... It is used to stew pork rib soup, which is a seasonal dish for Nanjing people in spring.
Roasted radish in gravy, an important dish for Nanjing people to Chinese New Year's Eve rice. Photo / Public account "Where to eat in Nanjing"
| in early summer" May Red "specializes in simmering old ducks."
In another month, it should be "May Red". This radish is larger, long, and tender, making it a perfect match for soups. The combination of two "very Nanjing" ingredients, radish and duck, is to become a simple food.
Lying on the bed with the water radish closed the door
The writer Mr. Ye Lingfeng spent his childhood in Nanjing, and he often talked about "radish on the outside and turnip on the inside" in the text, and the most suitable home-cooked dish was "radish simmered duck soup".
In the middle of summer| green-skinned radish race fruit
Green-skinned radish
In the streets of Nanjing in the middle of summer, green radishes are not tolerated. Nanjing folk proverb has: "Nanjing is a big monster, green radish is sold as fruit." "Many years ago, there were green radish cut slices and green olives on the Fruit Stand in Nanjing to sell. Among the custom paintings of local cartoonist Liu Yuan, there are vendors selling green fruits and turnips with their burdens.
▲ Liu Yuan comics, a vendor selling green radish.
This kind of radish, some green skin red heart, there are also all blue, watery, raw and crisp, permeated with a spicy taste, chewed carefully, you feel sweet and silky, can't help but come again.
Nanjing writer Xue Bing recalled in "Hunger and Hunger": "I remember that there was a kind of green radish heart color purple red, known as 'heart beauty', especially sweet and crisp and delicious. As the saying goes, 'turnips are like pears', which is no exaggeration. ”
Green-skinned carrots are commonly known as "heart beauty".
Autumn and winter | should be roasted and fried real "Les"
In autumn and winter, the largest white radish appears. The water spirit of the white radish, sliced, shaved, roasted soup are excellent.
Large white radish
Nanjing"popular king" duck blood fans, featuring white radish slices. Photo/ "Nanjing has a number"
Nanjing people fry white radish, first stir-fry and then add water, the last essence is to scoop a spoonful of lard poured in, after the high heat is boiled, then turn off the heat and simmer for a while, the radish that comes out will melt in the mouth. Finally, sprinkle a handful of green onions, and the color, aroma and taste will be complete.
Braised radish seeds head braised pork tofu
Radish terminals | the most Nanjing snack
Radish terminal is the "memory killing" of small poles (The Name of the Boy in Nanjing) and Pan Xi (the nickname of the Nanjing people for girls), which is the common name of the Nanjing people for a local fried radish silk cake.
▲ The "radish terminal" that just came out of the pot. Photo: "Where to Eat in Nanjing"
This oil-nourishing, golden snack is crispy and tender on the inside, and the radish shreds are tender and salty, and when they first come out of the pot, no one can help but take a bite.
In the three seven eight lanes, there are "turnip terminals" that Nanjing people have long missed. Photo/ "Nanjing has a number"
In the streets and alleys or at the mouth of the bustling hall, the masters of Nanjing use a cart, a pot, and a spoon to form a stall for turnip terminals, and every morning, there will be a long queue.
Today's Nanjing breakfast is varied, "oil terminals" are no longer the protagonist, but can be mixed with other snacks: when eating duck blood vermicelli soup, wood fire wontons, skin belly noodles, old Nanjing often takes a "oil terminal" and they form a set CP.
The old alleys of Nanjing and the "firewood ravioli" here. Photo / Public account "Nanjing has a number"
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="02" > eating radishes has lasted in Nanjing for thousands of years</h1>
More than a thousand years ago, Tao Sui was famous for two things: first, there was an affair during the southern Tang Dynasty, and later Tang Bohu created the "Tao Grain Gift Map" based on it; second, he surrendered to the Northern Song Dynasty from Later Zhou and drafted a Zen edict for Song Taizu.
Ming Tangyin's "Tao Su Gift Diagram" (partial), hidden in the "National Palace Museum" in Taipei.
He also wrote a strange book, "Qing Yilu", one of which is called "Three Incomparable", which refers to three incomparably delicious things: "Zhong Mo loves pineapple and bracken, and the text is called rain cauliflower." And there are artemisia, lyre, and pineapple as the three incomparable."
The "Lai" in the Qing Yilu is close to the pronunciation of "radish" in the Nanjing dialect.
One of them, "Lai Zhen", is another name for radish. Zhong Mo was a Southern Tang Dynasty official and an official to the Household Department. Jinling, also known as Nanjing, was the capital of the Southern Tang Dynasty. The radish that made the waiter "incomparably" obsessed was probably produced in Nanjing.
During the Southern Tang Dynasty, a famous dinner party in Nanjing. The picture shows "Han Xizai's Night Feast" (partial), hidden in the Palace Museum in Beijing.
So, where is the best radish in Nanjing?
The Yuan Dynasty historian Zhang Xuan once listed the dishes of Nanjing, including the radish "out of Lishui Prefecture". Lishui is the Lishui District of present-day Nanjing. Key point: Lishui radish on the list.
▲ Aerial view of Lishui District, Nanjing. Photo/Visual China
During the Ming Dynasty, Gu Qiyuan was a Nanjing "little pole" (the nickname of the Nanjing dialect for boys). After returning to his hometown, he wrote a "Guest Saying" in Nanjing, recording several delicious vegetables: "The beauty of vegetables and ru, formerly known as Banqiao radish shanqiao onion, but people are quite inexpensive." Key point: Itabashi radish is delicious.
The bustling street market of ancient Nanjing. The picture shows the Qing people imitating the Song Palace courtyard "Jinling Tu" (partial), hidden in the "National Palace Museum" in Taipei.
Chen Zuolin, a scholar in Nanjing at the end of the Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, repeatedly mentioned the local radish: "A corner of the southwest of Jinling City... Celery sprouts radish, white and red in color, its sweet tongue, not envious of fat sauce. "Scratch the point: the radish in the southwest corner of the old city, so sweet!"
In the past, it was the campus of Nanjing Normal University
Chen Zuolin is not the most capable of eating radishes, so he needs to invite yuan ming, a big gourmet. The Suiyuan garden of Xiaocangshan in Nanjing was his industry at that time, and the "Suiyuan Food List" was written in Nanjing. The radish menu in this recipe is mouth-watering.
The Suiyuan Recipe, which was born in Nanjing, mentions "boiled radish in lard" and "sauce radish".
More than a hundred years after the advent of the "Suiyuan Food List", Gong Naibao, a Nanjing native who lived in a foreign country, compiled the "Yecheng Vegetable Recipe", and the radishes in his hometown made him unforgettable, saying that their skin was bright red, large and solid, powdery and sweet, much more delicious than sweet potatoes.
The red-skinned radish in the Qingqianlong Silk "Xianju Shujing Map", which is hidden in the Palace Museum in Beijing.
Zhang Tongzhi, a Liuhe man in Nanjing, republic of China, left a "White Gate Recipe" that pays tribute to the god of food Yuan Ming, and praised the red-skinned Banqiao radish, saying that it was solid and sweet, and the price was much more expensive than the white-skinned radish. He especially reminded foodies that this radish is suitable for simmering soups and tastes as sweet as chestnut.
<h1 class="pgc-h-decimal" data-index="03" > "big radish" Nanjing: Ah oil, what a big deal!</h1>
Radish is an alternative "totem" of the city of Nanjing. Otherwise, the people of Nanjing would not be called "big turnips".
The "Nanjing Dialect Dictionary" has an explanation: "Foreigners jokingly call Nanjing people or Nanjing people self-deprecating jokes, containing the meaning of rough personality, humble and stupid, often said to be Nanjing radish, its origin is said to be more, may be related to Nanjing's abundant production of a variety of turnips." ”
In the 1940s, women selling turnips on the streets of Nanjing. Photography / Haida Morrison
This casual joke was gladly accepted by the people of Nanjing. Nanjing writer Ye Zhaoyan once quoted a palm saying that after the victory of the War of Resistance Against Japanese Aggression, Nanjing selected city flowers, celebrities had their own opinions, and plum blossoms and begonia cherry blossoms were nominated. Some people argue that the representative of Nanjing is not a flower, but a "big turnip."
Plum blossom is the flower of Nanjing City. Photo / Visual China
Mr. Ye said in the book "Nanjing People": "It is more appropriate to use large turnips to describe Nanjing people. The people of Nanjing will never be shrewd... Freedom and looseness, not hurried to do things, this point of leisure, is left by the old ancestors. "The radish gives Nanjing a kind of "smoke and water" gas, which is called "fireworks" is too vulgar.
In the 1940s, peddlers and pawns operated in the square. Photography / Haida Morrison
Cultural scholar Wei Minghua explained the "big radish" in this way: "The radish thing is rustic in the soil, stupid and stupid, its appearance is not proud, it is difficult to climb the elegance. But it is cheap and good, can be found everywhere, raw and cooked food, all kinds of suitable. "Simple and thick, honest and moderate, indifferent, rough and wooden, stupid and stupid - the reality of Nanjing people is not like this, swing your hand back to you: "Ah oil, what a big deal!" ”
Nanjing group map of the 1940s. Figure 1: A mother and son. Figure 2: Qinhuai River outside the city. Figure 3: Farmer growing vegetables on the outskirts of the city.
Photography / Haida Morrison
Mr. Yu Guangzhong, whose hometown is in Nanjing, not only compares himself to a radish, but also writes out the nostalgia and poetry of the radish: "Before the age of nine, I lived in the ancient city of Jinling, and the childish footprints overlapped and overlapped, and there was always no Qixia Mountain and Yuhuatai. Before and after, I entered Cui Baxiang Primary School, Youth Association Middle School, Jinling University, and changed from a Small Turnip in Nanjing to a Large Radish in Nanjing. ”
The temperament of Nanjing people and the shape and taste of radish are a match made in heaven!
On the banks of the Qinhuai River on a snowy night, the thick and watery radishes fit the "smoke and water" gas of the ancient capital of Nanjing.
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Wen 丨 Cheng Yao Text Editor 丨 大羽
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