The first time I went to Xiangyuan Restaurant was after the Nanzheng District Cultural Center held an exhibition of paintings by Xu Hanzhi, a Chinese light tobacco painter, where the wenpeng poets who visited and studied gathered together to taste the food of Xiangyuan while singing and dancing to celebrate. In the countryside, I met the boss Gan Lin.
Gan Lin and national master Cao Yongsheng
Gan Lin is both the boss and chef of the countryside. When we first met, he looked forty-five or six years old, medium-to-tall, with inches of hair and white skin, and the chef I remembered was either a big belly or a thin face, except for Ganlin, who was well-proportioned, just right, had a low and magnetic voice, and his eyes were bright and bright. When dressed in overalls, he is competent and professional; when he wears suits and shoes, he is quite gentlemanly.
Although it was only a brief reunion, the hometown left a deep impression on my mind. The environment is comfortable, well equipped, and the dishes are rich and delicious. Reading the countryside, there is always a kind and warm, but also an elegant atmosphere. In particular, this "edge" word is full of charm. When I said goodbye to Ganlin, I asked him why, and he told him eloquently: The hometown lives in Hejiawan Village at the foot of The Dahan Mountain, and uses the fresh and tender ingredients of the countryside to make gourmet dishes, so as to make a relationship with the countryside, and green, and folklore, and diners. Walking with people with friends, a glass of wine, tasting the taste of the countryside and telling each other about homesickness is a fortunate thing in life. It can be seen that Gan Lin is a very affectionate person.
Born in 1969 in Ganlin, Ganjiaba Village, Gaotai Town, Nanzheng District, in July 1986, graduated from the former Nanzheng County No. 10 Middle School, began to learn cooking skills in october at the county government guest house, was admitted as a Chinese cooking chef in 1989, was admitted as a Chinese chef in Baoji in 1992, was admitted as a special second-class Chinese cook in 1997, was admitted as a special first-class Chinese cook in 2000, was admitted as a second-level technician in 2016, and won a gold and two silver in the 26th Chef Festival Competition in Weinan, Shaanxi in October of the same year. In 2017, he was awarded the "Chinese Golden Chef" at the 27th China Chef Festival in Chongqing, and in 2018, he was admitted as a senior technician, and on November 17 of the same year, he took his self-created brand dish "Hanjian Lamb Chop" to Hanzhong to compete, and obtained the highest score of 97 points. On July 12, 2019, he was admitted as a registered Chinese culinary master in Xinyang, Henan Province. Along the way, he has been learning to forge ahead and climb to the top on the culinary road.
Gan Lin and national master Zhao Deli
In 2004, while managing 3 hotel restaurants in nanhu hotel, Gan Lin opened a hometown home-cooked snack bar opposite the county government, which was managed by his wife, and people used to call it "xiangyuan old shop", and opened another "yide restaurant" with friends for 3 years. In December 2017, three three-storey "Village Restaurants" were opened opposite the bus terminal 103. He is good at the study of Shaanxi, Sichuan, Lu, Cantonese and monastic cuisine, proficient in the production of freshwater fish, mountain game, the production of noodles, snacks, village banquets, homemade noodles such as sauce meat salt dish buns, radish silk cake, chrysanthemum crisp, etc. Created the "Ganlin Recipe". Strictly control the quality of the choice of ingredients, vegetables should be picked on the same day, meat such as chickens, ducks, fish, cattle, sheep and pigs are all slaughtered on the same day, frozen meat is prohibited, the shortage of rather than do, never to deceive guests with shoddy. Among the dishes he attends in Chinese culinary masters is orchid turtle. Innovative brand dishes include: Hanjian lamb chops, tea rhyme whip flowers, silver pike balls, double dragon play beads, chrysanthemum beef punches, jade rare fish shreds, sticks and dragon robes, pine needle elbows, silk ice cream, etc.
Every dish gan lin makes can be tasted from the name of the dish alone, which is poured into the essence and soul of the study of Chinese food culture. Such as his entry Hanjian lamb chops. Bamboo Jane is a piece of bamboo used for writing in ancient times, appeared in the Western Zhou Dynasty, prevailed in the Spring and Autumn Warring States, and is the longest used form of books in China's history. Hanzhong has a long history, is the birthplace of Liu Bang, the king of Han, he built an altar to worship Han Xin as a general, Ming Xiu Zhan Dao secretly crossed Chen Cang, chased deer in the Central Plains, pacified the Three Qins, and unified the world. The titles of Han Dynasty, Han Chinese, Han Chinese, Han Culture and so on have been inherited from now. Hanzhong green bamboo resources are rich, cottage mountains green bamboo everywhere, Ganlin by tianhan, green bamboo, bamboo Jane, associated with a piece of lamb chops, inspiration suddenly descended, a piece of yellow sheep with skin (this sheep has no smell) row through the self-created way of pickling, basket steaming, frying and then roasting and other processes, to make the outer crisp inside the tender HanJian lamb chops, a piece of skin with the skin of the lamb chops like a string of bamboo strips, the rows write the deep heritage of Han culture.
"Tea Rhyme Whip Flower" is even more interesting. Nanzheng Tea Garden is nearly 200,000 mu, and the famous "Han Mercury Shuttle" comes from here. Niu: industrious, tenacious, with tenacious vitality, the combination of the two, static and dynamic coordination. This dish is exquisite: the good golden bull is dissolved into a whip flower shape and marinated in soup, take Han mercury shuttle tea into boiling water to brew, put the whip flower into the simmered tea soup, and each cup is decorated with a piece of Han mercury shuttle tea leaves, and the tea whip flower that resembles a chrysanthemum bloom appears in front of you. While tasting the dishes, it is as if you are in an endless sea of tea or terraced fields, there are lean or tough cattle that are working hard, and there are cows that reflect the sunset wandering among the tea trees and the ground, chewing grass and chewing grass, which is not only a vibrant ink painting, but also a quiet and peaceful pastoral pastoral. It not only expresses Gan Lin's yearning for a better life, but also contains his spirit of advancing with the times and tenacious struggle.
The author of this article and Gan Lin are attending the event
Mention Bao Zheng, no one knows that no one knows, he is just and righteous, the rewards and punishments are clear, and he is the Bao Qingtian in people's hearts. During the reign of Emperor Renzong of the Northern Song Dynasty, Bao Zheng was ordered by Chen Zhou to release grain, and at the Tianqi Temple, he met a blind woman who complained, this woman was the concubine of Zhenzong, the mother of the Heavenly Son of the Dynasty, and after the old eunuch Chen Lin said that the tanuki cat was replaced by a prince, he greeted Li Hou and returned to the dynasty, and Li Hou wanted to punish Renzong for not filial piety, ordered Bao Zheng to beat the emperor, Bao Zheng was anxious to be wise, took off the emperor's dragon robe, and used the dragon robe to symbolize beating the emperor, in order to show that the emperor committed the same crime as the common people. So the stick beating dragon robe was rumored to be a household name. I never thought that the stick playing dragon robe was also Gan Lin's specialty dish. The snake skin (because it is a nationally protected animal, it is later changed to eel slices) in the pan after oiling or water smoothing, lay the middle of the plate, and then mash the chicken breast into a round stick and stick it to the bread crumbs in the oil pan and fry it around the eel slices, and this colorful and fragrant stick is made. In Gan Lin's eyes, the dish is not only to eat well, but also to eat stories and knowledge.
Gan Lin is not only very accomplished in cooking, but also keen on the study of food culture. In 2018, together with colleagues with consensus, the Nanzheng District Dough Skin Association was established, with him as the president and Xiao Lan as the secretary general. In May, the first "Princess Cup Dough Contest" was successfully held in Hanshan Square, attracting tourists from all over the country. In 2019, the Hanzhong Civic Food Research Association was established, with the president as the president and Yu Yongfu as the secretary general. In April, when the rape flowers were in full bloom, he was hired as a judge of the first dough skin competition in Hanzhong City, and contributed to the dough industry and the promotion of Nanzheng tourism again. He is passionate about the study of food culture and also likes literary research, and has joined the Provincial Folk Writers Association and the Provincial Sinology Art Research Association. He was quick-witted, and at the symposium of the New Collection Of Noodle Culture and Art Association, he improvised a poem "Skin Song": Japonica rice spring water grinding jade pulp, bamboo cage iron spoon busy with both hands, a burst of water mist boiling room beam, five pieces of jade cake on the case...
Gan Lin and Han Chinese celebrity Tang Guangzhong teacher
Gan Lin is a person who knows how to be grateful. Someone once hired him to develop abroad with a high salary, because he kept in mind the ancient adage: his parents were not far away and gave up the opportunity to develop. Thinking of the parents who live in their hometown all year round, they can't help but take care of their neighbors, as long as someone in their hometown finds him to sit at the table, choose vegetables, wash vegetables, move tables and chairs, serve dishes and other paid work to find the villagers, and the dishes they make only charge costs, so as to feedback the villagers in the township, and the hometown people respect his character and the authentic and high level of the dishes he makes. He boldly improved on the basis of traditional mats and used local materials. Such as: fried potato shreds in the dry mat, fried cannons, fried gnocchi, fried sweet potato chips, fried river fish, potato chips... These ingredients are available almost every home, and they are also very pleasant to eat. The ingredients and seasonings in the past four pins and four plates have been increased or subtracted to be more in line with folk customs. The family portrait was changed to jinyu full of halls, the eight treasure rice was changed to sweet and sweet honey, and the sweet and sour fish was changed to fish leaping dragon gate... The existing taste enjoyment reflects people's pursuit of high-quality life.
Gan Lin is a loving person. A total of more than 1,000 yuan was donated to the water drop chip. Last year, there was a girl with leukemia in Huanghe Village, Xinji Town, who heard that the Xinji Dough Skin Association was helping to raise funds, and he immediately donated money to wish the child a speedy recovery.
Long drought meets Ganlin, and he knows that his hometown is old. Ganlin's name is the same as his people, and people are the same as his face. (Text/Photo Chen Lijuan)