"Jinhua Citizens' Reading Hall" braised pike crab

Lu Ming

Original title: Braised pike crab

I had gout and had hardly touched seafood for nearly thirty years. Today,I make this dish exclusively for my wife. When the old wife was young, she loved beef and mutton, and after the age of sixty, she drank lightly and liked to eat fish, and my family's three meals a day followed this route. Seafood is rarely entered for my sake, but in the cooking of pike crab and the like, it is insensitive and not hand-made.

The ancient name of the pike crab is the cockroach, which is named because of its shape like a woven shuttle. Neither the Erya nor the Book of Verses is recorded, and it is probably a sea food that the ancient ancestors never tried to taste. Therefore, Mr. Lu Xun said that the first person to eat crabs was a warrior, which is because Mr. Lu Xun is a spirit of risking the Chinese people who are not willing to take risks regardless of life and death, but from the history of crab eating, I think that what I believe is the Tang Dynasty's "Records of the Ridge Table" recorded: "The cockroach is the giant and different of the crabs... The cockroach is hairless, and the two small feet behind the feet are thin and wide, commonly known as plucking off the seeds. It is different from crabs, which are as big as a liter. The southerners call it crabs. "Cloud cloud.

So crab eating began in the Tang or earlier than the Tang can also be established, to the Song Dynasty then the beauty of the taste of crabs, in the court meal has seen a conclusive record, such as the "Wulin Past" record song Gaozong Zhao Zhao Zhao Xing Qinghe County's royal residence section, in Zhang Junjin Feng Emperor's imperial meal, there are crab stuffed fir and cockroach signs, the former brewed fir what is very difficult to solve, the latter I think the cockroach sign should be similar to the drunken crab stock bar, cold eating, it is included in the ten tastes of persuasion, is the drunken crab stock in the feast to the most of the time, take it to eat can be greasy, taste, sober wine, This also makes sense from my experience.

In the Song Dynasty, the pike crab was not only the delicacy of the emperor and the prince, but also used it as a sign of the high quality of poetry: "The so-called Lu Zhi (Huang Tingjian) poetry such as cockroaches and Jiang Yaozhu, the rhyme is superb. "Similar to the Song Dynasty, five generations later Tang, Feng Zhen's "Miscellaneous Records of the Clouds and Immortals" contains the name of the dish of the cockroach, and the roaster is also roasted, and this dish is the roasted pike crab.

I saw on TV that there is this thing in the city supper food stall in Dalian, Qingdao; how is my Ningbo Wenzhou in Zhejiang, I have traveled for more than ten years, I dare not speculate, but when it comes to Jiaxing, although the crab market is constantly in supply, if you want to eat roasted pike crab at the night supper stall in Jiaxing, I am afraid that it will have to wait for a long time, and the Gaihe people are partial to being stagnant in eating food and acting as a person. I, old Jiaxing, wouldn't it be better?

There are two ways to eat home-style pike crab: first, thick oil red sauce, braised; second, boiled in water, dipped in sweet and sour sauce ginger minced to eat, just like the big crab.

Pike crab, also known as gun crab, is salted, and there is orange-red cream in the belly of the crab, which is very tempting. However, the gun crab is salty, I remember when I was a child, every summer, Zhapu was loaded on a boat to carry gun crabs, and most people in Jiaxing had gun crabs on their dinner tables. My family never lagged behind in eating food, and after my grandmother bought it, she always had to smack her mouth, and the wrinkles on her face shrank into a pile, saying: "Salty enough to spit iron!" "At first I did not understand what iron is, and when I became an adult, I loved to read miscellaneous books, and it turned out that spitting iron was a mud snail, and Li Shizhen's "Compendium of Materia Medica" had a record.

Sixty years ago, eating gun crabs was very salty, for example: the whole family of six people ate a pound of gun crabs, over the porridge, could not eat, crab claws crab feet (including the two thin and wide "plucked off"), piled up, to keep the next meal.

Source: People's Daily News

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