In the poem "Zhou Nan Ge Qin", it is said: "Ge Zhi Qin Xi, Shi Yu Zhonggu, Wei Ye Ling. Yellow birds fly, gathered in shrubs, and their chirping.
Ge Zhi Qin Xi, Shi Yu Zhonggu, Wei Ye Momo. It is a sword is a water, a silk is a silk, and there is no servant. ”
I saw only a green and green kudzu vine, spreading in the quiet ravine; but this quiet green bi was immediately broken by a "chattering" bird song, and when I looked up, it turned out to be a beautiful yellow oriole bird, whispering cheerfully in the bushes. A woman dressed in a clothed garment is busy in the valley. The figure was ethereal, and I had just seen her bending down to "cut" the vine, and in the blink of an eye, I saw her "shaving" kudzu and weaving cloth at home. So the kudzu vine, which was full of valleys, changed into a fluttering kudzu cloth; the beautiful woman draped this "silk" in front of the bronze mirror was happily trying on a dress. The phrase "serve without hesitation" reveals the infinite happiness and pride after hard work.
In the "Compendium of Materia Medica", it is recorded that Kudzu, alias wild kudzu, kudzu vine and kudzu strip, legume deciduous winding plant, three-out compound leaves, total inflorescence, corolla butterfly, flower color purple red, pod linear. Roots, stems, leaves, flowers can all be medicated. Stem skin fibers can be woven and papermaking. In ancient times, it was widely used, and kudzu and kudzu were all civilian costumes; kudzu powder and kudzu flowers could dissolve wine. The "Han Feizi Wuyin" records that Yao wore clothing, which was "winter grebe, summer geyi." "Kudzu had the functions of root edible belly, root inflorescence can be used for medicine, stem fiber can be woven to protect against the cold, and seeds can be eaten. Therefore, the ancients felt very magical about Ge, worshipping Ge Ding as a totem, and the locals were even more proud of Ge, and even took "Ge" as a place name.
The Getian clan rested on the hot land of Ge and created a higher early civilization. In the Paleolithic Age, more than a million years ago, the Chinese nation did not have agriculture, and people only lived by collecting wild fruits, plant roots, and fishing and hunting.
According to legend, GeBu was invented by Ge Tianshi and taught the skills of weaving life and production supplies with kudzu's stem skin fibers, such as rolling warp spinning rope, weaving kudzu shoes, and weaving gebu. Coarse kudzu cloth is called "silk", fine kudzu cloth is called "silk", and the kudzu cloth is sewn with kudzu, kudzu shirt, and kudzu towel, covering the body, bidding farewell to the wilderness, and entering the early civilized society.
During the Zhou Dynasty, the imperial court set up an official position in the central government of "Palm Ge", responsible for collecting and controlling the raw materials for ge ma textiles, and there was a distinction between the kudzu (weaving gebu) of "Shannong" and the kudzu (for consumption) of "Zenong". The Yulin Gebu produced in the Han Dynasty was paid tribute to the imperial court, so that the capital had "all the people in the list wore Yulin Cloth", and the Yulin Cloth in the first year of the Tang Dynasty was also called "Yulin Ge", which was listed as a tribute and lasted for more than a thousand years.
When Tao Yuanmingji Anderson Goyanagi's biography of Mr. Goyanagi said of the ideal world style, he said: "The people without the Huai clan? The People of Gu tianshi? ”
Lu You's "Three Mountains at Night Out of the Partial Gate" also said: "The water blows the kudzu clothes, and the grass dews the mangs." ”
From the Ming and Qing dynasties to the Republic of China, rural families all woven kudzu and native cloth, and some families had wooden spinning machines and looms. Weaving cloth with a wooden loom, hand sewing clothes and quilts and tents. Silk satin is expensive, the average people can not afford to wear, can only wear native cloth, there are kudzu, linen, cotton, silk, etc., that is, coarse cloth made of kudzu, hemp, cotton fibers. At the end of the Qing Dynasty, kudzu and hemp fibers withdrew from the use of clothing.
It is said that after the cloth is woven, two of the strips are not cut, and the kudzu thread is sewn together like a sewing pocket, but a hole is left in the middle of one end of the cloth for wearing the head, and a hole is left on the left and right upper ends of the cloth to wear the arms, and the lower end of the cloth is not stitched, leaving a large opening for wearing the legs. In order to resist the cold and cover the shame and facilitate labor, the first two pieces of cloth are shorter in the front and in the middle of the thighs, and the back is longer with the bends of the legs, with no sleeves and no pants. When wearing, the head is pierced from the middle hole, the arms are extended from the left and right holes, and then a grass rope and animal skin belt are tied to the waist, which not only looks spiritually sharp, but also can not work tools, or ornaments on the belt belt.
Nowadays, gebu clothes are rarely seen. It is said that in the villages of the Brown people of Shuangjiang in Yunnan Province, every household has an old-fashioned dough press, spinning machine and loom. The raw materials for their textiles are cotton, ramie and kudzu hemp, which they grow themselves. Cotton and ramie can be spun into native cloth, and ramie and kudzu can be used to sew sacks or hanging bags. The origin of the textile technology of the Brown people is relatively early, especially the Brown women of the Brown tribe in Shuangjiang State are famous for weaving "Gebu". The traditional textile skills of the Brown people are also the second batch of provincial intangible cultural heritage list in Yunnan Province.
In summary, Gebu played a great role in the life of the ancients at all stages, and played an important role. It has accompanied the development of Chinese civilization all the way and has assumed an irreplaceable role, and has also formed a series of unique and beautiful cultural phenomena of its own. Among them, it is also a condensation of the wisdom and sweat of the ancients. It should be inherited and developed by modern civilizations, so that they can shine again.