Figure 丨 Zhang Daqian "Scattered Flowers" part
China's silk and fragrant cloud yarn have amazed the world. However, gebu has always been favored by China's royal family and nobles, especially Gebu in Leizhou, Guangdong.
In ancient times, having a set of clothes made of Leizhou Gebu was extraordinary, and even a symbol of lofty social status.
As early as 6,000 years ago, the ancients learned to extract fibers from plant skins such as kudzu and hemp to make clothing.
During the Zhou Dynasty, the cloth used to make clothes in summer was already divided into fine kudzu and coarse kudzu.
During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, Gebu was the cloth for summer clothes that was popular.
In the Han Feizi Wuyin, it is said that Yao (an ancient famous monarch) was dressed as "winter grebe, summer gebu".
Figure 丨 Clothes made of the true color Kudzu in the Ming Dynasty
In the Shang and Zhou Dynasties, the ancestors of Leizhou in Lingnan had learned the art of garment making, and the finely crafted gebu was of superior quality, better than satin, as thin as a cicada wing, and weighed only a few baht (about 30 grams). The clothes made by Gebu are cool and comfortable to wear in the summer.
During the Eastern Han Dynasty, Gebu in Lingnan was already famous throughout the country, and there are relevant records that Leizhou Gebu "is a hundred dollars and a foot, smooth and firm, and the color is like blood teeth." ...... Therefore, rege is prevalent in the world", the Central Plains Royal Family constantly sent people to ask for it.
During the Wei and Jin dynasties, the power of the famous and prestigious clans fell to the opposition, and the nobles and celebrities at that time used turbans made of gebu.
Tao Yuanming under the eastern fence of the chrysanthemum has an allusion to ge towel wine. It is rumored that Tao Yuanming loves wine, he went to a friend's house as a guest, the owner just brewed the wine, has not yet separated the wine residue, Tao Yuanming has not been able to wait, took off his Gebu turban as a filter, the scene to drink.
Figure 丨 Ming Dynasty Ding Yunpeng "Wet Wine Map" part
Luo Guanzhong's "Romance of the Three Kingdoms" wrote for the forty-fifth time: The plot of Jiang Gan's visit to Zhou Yu is "dry Ge Towel Cloth Robe, driving a small boat, straight to Zhou Yu Village." ”
Here the katsuya cloth robe refers to the person who wears the kudzu turban and wears coarse cloth clothes. Since then, the robe has become an idiom, referring to the hermit and the high person.
Shi Nai'an's Water Margin wrote in the 103rd time: "Huang Da... Wear a collar Leizhou fine Gebu short coat...", it turns out that the Northern Song Dynasty Liangshan Po hero also likes to wear clothes made of "Leizhou Gebu".
Since the Han Dynasty, Leizhou Gebu has been the most fashionable item and the most precious gift. In the Qing Dynasty, provincial governors or governors were required to present gifts to the emperor every year on major holidays or at the end of the year.
According to relevant historical records, among the tributes of the Duanyang Festival of Guangdong Governor, there are fifty horses of Leizhou Gebu.
Picture 丨 Leizhou Gebu Maode Gongda Garden
The late Qing Dynasty painter Wu Changshuo wrote in a "Loquat Diagram": "In May, the day is hot to change the kudzu clothes, and the family is orange and fat; the black suspect gold bomb does not dare to peck, and the hunger and air fly to the forest." ”
With a long history of 6,000 years, why did Gebu, who was once famous, disappear?
Some people say that it is because the growth cycle of the plant is slow and does not conform to the fast-paced production method; some people say that in the middle and late Ming Dynasty, Jingjiang cloth prevailed, and the imperial court dismissed Rege. Since then, Reger has gradually faded out of the stage of history.
It is also possible that the invention of air conditioning in 1902 led to the withdrawal of summer clothes...
Figure 丨 Late Qing Wu Changshuo "Loquat"
Today, the Brown people of The Brown Mountains of Shuangjiang State, Yunnan Province, still retain the ancient handicraft of "Gebu" to weave clothes, weave satchels, and weave thread blankets.
The Imperial Robes of Japanese Shintoism still use the ancient traditions of Kakegawa and Oigawa Katsubu.
bibliography:
Web page Baidu Encyclopedia Geyi entry;
Web page Yangcheng Evening News Leizhou Peninsula Eastern Han Dynasty Miscellaneous Talk "Leizhou Gebu, Ancient Fashion and Precious Fabrics" Li Rixing 2012-04-25;
Webpage Leizhou Municipal People's Government "Leizhou Etiquette and Customs", October 29, 2017;
Journal "Shandong Textile Science and Technology" 2014 (055) 004 "Leizhou Gebu Conservation and Development Research" Liu Chunyu;
Figure 丨 Qin Wen 《Na Liang Tu》