Chen Ende is making Yifu noodles (file photo)
Ifumian (file photo)
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Yifu noodles are a delicacy that flourished during the Jiaqing period of the Qing Dynasty. The reporter learned yesterday that a program of "Taste of Qiankun" specifically confirmed that the traditional Chinese cuisine Yifu noodles came from Yangzhou, and emphasized that as early as the Qing Dynasty, yangzhou's literati activities were inseparable from the historical origin of various cuisines. The narrator of the program, Zhou Tong, is the secretary general of the Shanghai Food Culture Research Association and one of the disciples of Xue Quansheng, a master of Huaiyang cuisine.
"Taste of Qiankun"
It proves that Yifu Noodles was born in Yangzhou
China's Jiangsu network on August 14, Yifu noodles have been known as the "originator of instant noodles". The show "Taste of Qiankun" proves from different aspects that Yifu noodles are from Yangzhou.
"As for the origin of Yifu noodles, one thing is certain that this was designed and invented by the chefs in Yi Bingshou Province. But the vague point is whether this dish originated when Yi Bingshou was the prefect of Huizhou, or whether he later invented it when he was the prefect of Yangzhou. Zhou Tong, the show's host, believes that Taiwanese Wu Baifu (that is, the famous Japanese Momofuku Ando) is not the inventor of instant noodles.
Zhou Tong introduced that from the perspective of influence, the most famous place in Yifu noodles is Guangdong, plus Yi Bingshou once served as the prefect of Huizhou, which is the reason for the speaker of "originating in Huizhou"; and "Yifu noodles" originated in Yangzhou, which is a passage by Mr. Ling Yunchao, a Hong Kong industrialist and famous calligrapher, in "Three Thousand Years of Chinese Calligraphy": "When Tingzhou was the governor of Yangzhou later, he paid attention to food, and his mouth was good. In his later years, in addition to the poetry of Shuxing calligraphy and painting, Tingzhou liked to study food, and it was popular in restaurants in Guangzhou and Hong Kong, and the famous Yifu noodles and Yangzhou fried rice were invented by the chefs of Yifu Province. ”
Historical and cultural origins
Yangzhou cooking theory skills are "soil"
It is understood that the host and narrator of this program, Zhou Tong, is the secretary general of the Shanghai Food Culture Research Association, "He is a yangzhou native, who worked on Oriental Satellite TV and is my apprentice." Xue Quansheng, a master chef of Chinese Huaiyang cuisine, introduced that Zhou Tong likes to study the history and culture of cooking.
In the program, Zhou Tong introduced that looking at Yi Bingshou's own notes and works "Liuchun Caotang Collection", Yi Bingshou himself did not mention the details of the creation of "Yifu Noodles". Regarding the historical section of the birthplace of Ifumi, it can only be inferred from other relevant historical facts. During Yi Bingshou's tenure as the prefect of Yangzhou, he did a lot of cultural projects.
"Yangzhou has a large number of 'primary school' talents such as exegesis, examination and music training, so this project is likely to be jointly completed under the 'call' of the Yi people and under the specific research of Ruan Yuan and others." And this kind of activity that gathered a large number of literati was generally inseparable from various types of cuisine, which was a kind of custom in Yangzhou at that time. Zhou Tong introduced that Yi Bingshou was the prefect of Yangzhou during the Jiaqing period, at this time Yangzhou's cooking theory and cooking technology have represented the highest level in the country at that time, and it is quite natural that the most primitive gastronomic creativity such as Yifu noodles was born in Yangzhou, because after the prosperity of Kangqian, Yangzhou's gastronomic innovation has formed a social atmosphere, and this cultural soil is also a necessary condition for the birth of food.
Yangzhou fried rice recipe recorded
It shows that Yangzhou has the strength to invent Yifu noodles
Zhou Tong said that although Yi Bingshou's work "Liuchun Caotang Collection" does not clearly record the invention of Yifu noodles, it clearly records how Yi Bingshou improved the recipe for Yangzhou fried rice, which is also the first "standardized" record of Yangzhou fried rice in the history of gastronomy. This also reflects from another side that Yangzhou has the creative motivation and feasibility of inventing Yifu noodles.
During his stay in Huizhou, Yi Bingshou also devoted himself to the construction of local culture, rewarded post-study, and founded a college. But in Huizhou during the Jiaqing period, the development of culinary culture was far from the point of generating this demand for innovation. One of Yi Bingshou's cultural credits during his time in Huizhou was to examine the location of the grave of Su Dongpo's concubine Wang Chaoyun, who happened to die of illness after eating snake meat. In the middle of the Qing Dynasty, the local food culture of Huizhou did not develop into a fine and deep processing aspect such as "Yifu noodles". Food is certainly cultured, but this culture also needs soil.
Taiwanese freelancer Wu Zhiliang mentioned Zhou Tong when introducing that Zhou Tong is a student of physics, "Friends like to listen to Zhou Tong's dishes, he learns deeply, articulate, barnyard officials and wild history, the world is north and south, twisting hands, always interesting, listening to it is more enjoyable than tasting." ”
In this regard, The Huaiyang cuisine theorist Wang Zhen introduced that Yi Bingshou is a literati and bureaucrat, a friend of Ruan Yuan, known for his incorruptibility, and is also very sympathetic, and the noodles often prepared in the family are placed in the jar covered with Badu paper, sealed, and covered with spares. He read in the middle of the night, generally let the book boy rest early, boiling water on the stove, hungry in the middle of the night, for convenience, he used hot water to soak noodles, softened and then added sesame oil, soy sauce, green onions, etc. mixed well to season, covered with stew, used to relieve hunger.
"The practice of Yifu noodles was made in Yangzhou in the 1970s, and there were many old Yangzhous that would do it, similar to sesame oil steamed buns soaked in Jingguo powder, Jingguo powder soaked in Jingjiang and so on." Wang Zhen told reporters that as a Qing official, Yi Bingshou's family often gathered literati and inkers to chant and sing, the chef was often too busy to come, Yi Bingshou invited guests very simple, generally with hot dried silk, Yangzhou fried rice, as well as Yangzhou fried noodles, simmered noodles waiting for guests.
【Teach you a trick】
Pastry chefs teach you to make Ifu noodles
Can citizens make their own Ifu noodles at home? Huaiyang pastry master Chen Ende reproduced the practice of Yifu noodles:
Ingredients: 500 grams of wheat flour, eggs, cold water, salt, chicken broth, shrimp, green vegetables, bamboo shoots, ham, cooking oil
method:
1. Knead flour, eggs, cold water and a pinch of salt into a dough;
2. Roll out the dough into a crust that is close to transparent;
3. Cut into leek leaf wide noodles and sprinkle with dry flour to prevent stickiness;
4. Cook the noodles in a pot, cool it with cold water, and drain the water;
5. Cook the noodles on the plate, plate the shape, under the oil pan over the oil;
6. Boil the broth in a pot, blanch the shrimp, green vegetables, bamboo shoots and ham shreds, and get out of the pot;
7. Add oiled noodles to the broth;
8. The noodles are soft and soft.
Reporter Tu Mingjuan