"Yifu noodles" originated from disputes and combs

Source: Fujian Daily

Original title: "Old Food" Zhao Heng was surprised why Fujian did not fight for the patent ——

"Yifu noodles" originated from disputes and combs

Chen Shiliang's "Rongcheng Dim Sum Collection" mentions Yifu noodles: "In the past, taijiang flood '369' restaurant fried noodles made of eggs, and now fried now poured ten brocade brine, fried noodles absorb the marinade will make a sound, crispy and delicious. The book was first published in 1987, and the preface said that "I am now old and frail", but the words and Yifu noodles are "many ingredients, delicious and delicious", and still exude a full sense of happiness. Unfortunately, "no one in the city has made it now", the old man also noted the clouds: "This noodle was invented by the family of the Gentry of the Yi surname, so it was named Yifu Noodle." It can be used as a big dish in birthday feasts. ”

The so-called "Yi surname Jinsheng" is actually Yi Bingshou, a Qing Dynasty scholar and a Fujian Ninghua person. In recent years, Yifu noodles (also known as Yi noodles) have been revered as the "originator of instant noodles" and their reputation has grown, followed by the public case of "whether it belongs to Cantonese cuisine or Huaiyang cuisine". Mr. Zhao Heng said in "Old Food And Gossip Yifu Noodles": "Yi Bingshou first became the prefect of Huizhou, and Yifu noodles were introduced to Guangdong; then as the prefect of Yangzhou, he brought the skills of Yifu noodles to Jiangsu and became a good food in Huaiyang." Therefore, it is not wrong to say that it is Cantonese cuisine or Huaiyang cuisine. It is also strange that Yi Bingshou's hometown of Fujian has not competed for this patent so far. ”

Jiangjia tofu Yijia noodles

The poem "Farewell to Jiangting" by Hu Sijing, a famous minister of the late Qing Dynasty, said: "In the year of Shunzhi, the old generation of Tongguang has been upside down." Jiangjia tofu Yijia noodles, once in the feast is not fresh. Wei Yuankuang, a native of Jiangxi, said in his "Poems of Banana Deer" that the villager Hu Sijing "Went out of the capital in Xinhai (1911), and there was a sentence in the middle of the banquet: 'Jiangjia tofu Yijia noodles, as soon as they arrive at the feast, they are not fresh. ''Jiang tofu', made by the townspeople Jiang Yuntaobu Lang, only Guanghe and Ju passed on its system; 'Yi Fu (suspected to be 'chuan' word mistakenly engraved) noodles', then Yi Bingshou passed it on. In the pubs of Duzhong, all famous dishes are mostly called by the surnames of the people who have been passed down, such as 'Pan Fish' and 'Wu Fish Fillet'. Shao Tang (胡思敬字潄唐, 一作邵唐) this trip, in order not to be able to say anything, haoran decided to go, so ordinary food is touched by the sense of life."

Mr. Zhu Jiyao's "Guanghe Ju Inscription Wall Poem" Yun: "Guanghe Ju was one of the four famous liquor stores in Beijing in the Qing Dynasty. At the end of Jiaqing, it was founded in Xuannanbei Banju Hutong, initially named Longshengxuan, and renamed Guangheju in the eleventh year of Daoguang (1831). The room window is elegant and clean, and the hospitality is legal, not only known for its exquisite cuisine. Cooking is mostly passed down from the Southern people, or with the name of the surname, such as PanYu (from the Min people Pan Bingnian), Jiang tofu (from the Jingde River Tree), Tao Cai (passed down from the Zhejiang people Tao Kaixiang), all of which are unique names. Li Shuke (Ci Ming) said that his dishes were like Wang Yuyang's poems, not the character of northerners. The land and the city are far away, and the literati bachelor is happy. ”

Qu Duizhi's "Northern Dream Record" is very detailed: "In the middle of the Daoguang, when the main text was playing with martial arts, the Jing Dynasty Shifu Sheng took the food and drink as a matter of conquest. He had seen "inverted words on a piece of paper" as "the most ancient historical material in the world." The prospectus reads: "Daoguang eleventh year of the first two days of October, the inverted character Sheng Lianying, now in the north of the hutong road east of the longshengxuan liquor shop door bungalow two rooms, because of the inability to make, willing to open a Guangheju with Shen Guangtai ..." The preface to the "Northern Dream Record" is dated "April of the twenty-third year of the Republic of China (1934)", Qu Duizhi also said: "The style is quite elegant, and in recent years it has been full of the famous traces of the poet and ink, and there is no vulgar pen." The pawn moved into the inner city with many houses, and could not revitalize his business, open up for a hundred years, and suddenly stopped. ”

Yifu noodles were founded in Yi Bingshou, and the literature can be seen briefly. Yi died in September of the twentieth year of the Qing Dynasty (1815), and by the late Qing Dynasty and the beginning of the Ming Dynasty, the saying "YiJia Mian" had been circulated in the capital, and it was passed on by word of mouth by Yu Dafu, Hong Weifa and other Republican literati. As for the absurd passages that have been falsely rumored in later generations as "Imperial Palace Noodles" and "Ivy Noodles", they are gradually drifting away from the original history.

General Dony's nonsense

The surname Yi also has another saying. According to the "Compilation of Allusions to Dishes" published by the Zhengzhou Culinary Association Cooking School, Yifu noodles are passed down from a general surnamed Yi in Yicheng (present-day Anyang, Henan) in the Tang Dynasty. However, this statement is quite different from historical facts.

Mr. Sun Ji has made a detailed examination of "noodles" in the section "Agriculture and Diet" in "Ancient Chinese Material Culture". The noodles were originally soup cakes, and soup cakes were also called boiled cakes, and this name was found in the Eastern Han Dynasty's "Four People's Moon Order". However, the soup cake before the Song Dynasty was actually a kind of slice soup, and the noodles were not cut with a knife, but torn by hand, in units of "slices". The noodles cut into thin strips are called suo noodles, and they did not become popular until the late Northern Song Dynasty. In the Yuan Dynasty, noodles were processed into noodles. It can be seen that the Tang Dynasty's General Yi's family cook rushed to make Yifu noodles, which is just a rural slang of "Guan Gong War Qin Qiong".

It is worth examining a message from "Vegetarian Talk". Xue Baochen, a Shaanxi scholar and a scholar of the Hanlin Academy at the time of the Qing Dynasty, died in 1926, and was the annual publication of the "Vegetarian Commentaries" Volume IV "Noodles" Cloud: "Boiled into noodles, stirred with cold water, dried with water vapor, fried in oil, slightly simmered in broth, clear but not greasy." Although it is not clear whether the reference here is made of "fine powder and eggs", it must have been made of "fried" technique, and there is already a shadow of Ifu noodles.

Xue Baochen also said that this was "Yuan Wencheng's testament to the Fa", "The noble cook, the original is indispensable, Yu has eaten, but dare not imitate it." Yuan Shikai's uncle Yuan Baoheng (袁保恒), a native of Xiangcheng, Henan, was an official and a servant of the Punishment Department, who died during the fourth year of Guangxu (1878) during his tenure as a disaster relief officer. This text shows that from the beginning of Daoxian to Tongguang, although noodles are "fried in oil", although they are not the skills of "cooking dragons and cannons and phoenixes", they are also unusual in the eyes of Hanlin Officials.

According to Li Haigen, a local scholar in Gannan Province, there is also a saying of "Nan'an Yimian" in Dayu County, Ganzhou City, Jiangxi Province (which belongs to Nan'an Province in the Ming and Qing Dynasties), and the producer is a prefect surnamed Nan'an Province in the Qing Dynasty. However, Li Haigen consulted the Tongzhi Pengchen Ben (1868) Nan'an Fu Zhi and the Guangxu YuanNian Ben (1875) Nan'an Fu Zhi Zhi Correction, but did not know where the Nan'an Yi Zhifu was derived.

The two say like a fairy fighting

Tang Lusun's "Yangzhou Fried Rice Yifu Noodles" Yun, Yi Bingshou "In his later years, he liked to study the way of drinking and eating. He was in the official house of Huizhou, and there was a wheat cook who was quite skilled in cooking, and when he was transferred to Huaiyang, because the guests and hosts got along very well, Mai also came to Yang with ren, and Yifu noodles were studied at this time." Tang said that the impact was very great, and Zhu Zhenfan and others thought so.

Zheng Yimei's statement is rarely mentioned. According to the "Paper Tent Copper Bottle , Duo Yi Happy Language", "Cantonese restaurants have Yifu noodles, which are the characteristics of the noodles. The so-called Yifu is from the Ninghua Yi Bingshou family, bingshou has a Ji person, good governance of dim sum, is the face is out of its hand. Youyun: "At a certain age, Bake (Li Xuangong, Zi Bake, MoChao, a native of Minxian County, Fujian Province) hung bingshou books, filled his walls, invited the scholars of the sea to feast and drink, and gave them a lot of praise. ”

Li Bake was close friends with Mao Heting and had contacts with Yi Lixun, the grandson of Bingshou Xuan. Reviewing Li Xuangong's poems such as "Shuoguoting Poems and Peng Yin (1938) Collecting Ink Nests on the Eleventh Day of the First Month, Making Birthdays for Yimo'an Taishou, and Using Liuchun Caotang to Worship Ouyang Wenzhong's Birthday Rhymes", and checking the "Annals of Mr. Mao Heting", none of them involved Yi Mian, only that "lunch at Li Bake's house" was known on that day. Mao Heting is a poet friend of Hu Sijing, and the Annals contain: February of the third year of the Qing Dynasty (1911), "On the twenty-third day, Zheng Sukan summoned you to Jiangting, and the visitors were Chen Tao'an (Chen Baochen), Lin Qinnan, Chen Shiyi, Zeng Gangfu, Hu Shutang... As well as Mr. (Mao Heting), where thirteen people, and photography. Jiangting, or Taoran Pavilion in present-day terms, is for the 'Fayuan Temple Poetry Society'." It was previously stipulated, "On the day of the people, the flower dynasty, the Shangwei, etc., the place of famous place is selected, and each person carries tea leaves and fruit cakes, divides the paper with each person, and improvises poetry... When it gets dark, they gather to drink in Guangheju and other places."

Tang Lusun was the cousin of Concubine Zhen, the "first person for the Chinese to talk about eating"; Zheng Yimei was the "King of Supplementary Whites", who was also in charge of everyone, and the two said that there were differences, which was tantamount to "immortal fighting". Mao Heting and Zheng Yimei's teacher-friend exchanges first appeared in December 1932. In February 1949, "Zheng Yimei came to Mr. Zheng Yimei, gave him a new engraving of "Modern Wild Ride", and listened to Mr. Guangxuan's characters, talking about the long return. Since then, Zheng often visits or talks at a friend's banquet, and Mr. Zheng has talked tirelessly." Considering this, Zheng's statement seems to be "circulating", which cannot be described as unprovoked.

As far as Bingshou's life deeds are concerned, only two chronology can be found online and offline today, one is the "Yi Bingshou Chronicle" (edited by Tan Pingguo) and the other is the "Annals of Mr. Yi Moqing" (edited by Wu Qiwei), from which only "Wife Li Shi" is known, and it is not known when he got married. "Book wife does not book concubine" is a common example of cultivation, and it is difficult to distinguish whether the saying "Bingshou Jiren" is a joke like "no doubt about thieves", or whether it is a real thing.

Not tired of mountain home flavor thin

Dating back to Zheng Yimei's first edition of "Vase Sheng Hua Video" in June 1936, there is an article entitled "Qi Jiguang Cake and Yi Bing's Noodles", which is generally consistent with the description in his later years. The difference is that the original text of the old text was "(Bingshou) ShouHuizhou, singing with the staff for a good day, and often placing wine high meetings, its Ji people are good at treating dim sum, and specially combine wheat flour with egg yolk", which seems to have originated in Huizhou.

The Journal of Huiyang Teachers' College once published a short article "The Legend of Yi Noodles with Chicken Juice", saying that "The First Talented Son of Lingnan" and Song Xiang, the chief of Fenghu Academy, were invited to drink by Bingshou, and heard the chef say that "this noodle is the traditional practice of our Huizhou people", so it was named Yifu Noodles. Song Xiang's poems are not lacking in "vegetable shoot gas", and his "Edible Rape" "Ding Ning quits servants, rotten boiling is as smooth as crisp." The ointment and the salt of Shu taste so much that he does not need to" is like a recipe. With the talent of Song Xiang and the deep friendship with Bingshou, if it is named by Yi Mian, why does his "Red Apricot Mountain House Collection" not see the inscription?

Zhao Huaiyu's "Yijun Tomb Table" says that Bingshou "screens the sound of thanks, eats every vegetable, and clears my heart and ears" by virtue of this." Bingshou's "Letter to Wu Xianxiang" explains the reason why Xie's relatives and friends intend to celebrate the sixtieth birthday: "The "Sequel Erlin Collection" is a great ominous birthday to kill hundreds of thousands of lives on birthdays, and although the brother cannot hold fasting, he closes the door until the end of the period, and he is named and thanked. Family feasts use ham, guinea pig clams and the like, instead of chickens, ducks and fish, or killed one day first, it is also a quick death. Before his death, there was a surviving "Liuchun Caotang Poetry Banknote", and if you want to understand his eating habits from it, you have to say a few words: "I am not tired of the thin flavor of the mountain family, and the garden and vegetable village brew can still be supplied".

The "Changting Traditional Food" and "Tingzhou Hakka Recipes" published in 1988 and 1998 respectively entered "Tingzhou Yi Noodles" into the "flavor snack category", and said: When Yi Bingshou was an official, he was not luxurious, ate more vegetables, especially liked pasta, and often entertained guests with homemade noodles. Because The Pasta is fried first and then cooked, it has its own unique preparation method, so people call this kind of noodles "Yi Noodles". And because Ninghua was subordinate to the Tingzhou capital at that time, the Yigong calligraphy was "Tingzhou Yi Bingshou", so in the Guangzhou restaurant, this noodle was called "Tingzhou Yi noodles".

This statement is well founded. Some of the recipes in Guangdong, such as the "Vegetable Point Teaching Materials" (1982 edition) compiled by the canteens of colleges and universities in Guangdong Province, are strict and compliant, writing Yi Noodles as "Tingzhou Noodles", saying that its production method is "the same as noodles, but it is a multi-frying process, and there is less falling water (alkali water)." In Cantonese cuisine, Yifu noodles are quite pleasing. The two dishes listed in the "Guangdong Auspicious Cuisine Fushou" are "Zhixian Zhushou" and "Qi Mei Zhu Shou", or symbolize the precious Ganoderma lucidum with bean seedlings, or "Qi Mei" (locally known as "Qi Mei Bamboo Shoots"), all of which are used as Yi Mian (longevity noodles) to represent "Zhu Shou".

In Bingshou's hometown, the relevant expressions are more "spontaneous". The Shibi Hakka Commentary states that Yifu Noodles were "created by his chef during his tenure as the prefect of Yangzhou". In the "Hakka Style - Documentary of Ning's Fossils and Bicai Style", the article "History of "Yi Mian" says that when Bingshou was serving as the prefect of Yangzhou, Xingyue rushed back to Ninghua to make a birthday for the old mother, and the chef master "mistakenly" created this method in a hurry. In 2018, the Fujian Provincial Department of Commerce took the lead in organizing the compilation of the "Essence of Chinese Fujian Cuisine", which was officially entered into yifu noodles, and Neiyun "the chef at home was overwhelmed with deep feelings, and Yi Bingshou used his brain to think of a way" "Ninghua Hakka still have to eat this kind of Noodles when they wish their birthdays".

During the ten years of the Beijing official, during the period of Shouhuizhou, he lived in Guangzhou for another year, served as the prefect of Yangzhou for two years, and then lived in the countryside for eight years; during the period of exile, both parents were welcomed and raised in the bureau... This is the general trajectory of Yi Bingshou's life. If it is a good thing, the story is just a story. Yifu noodles are originally mountain flavor, the place is not recorded, the fame began in the capital, and in the middle and late Qing Dynasty, Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine and Cantonese cuisine exchanged more, which is the root of which is the root, it is also said to be multi-ended.

In 1958, the Chinese-Japanese Momofuku Ando successfully produced modern instant noodles, known as the greatest food invention of the 20th century; the toppings of Yi noodles are arbitrary, rich and frugal, Chen Shiliang said that Fuzhou Ten Brocade is from livestock and poultry, seafood, fungi, fruits and vegetables and other high-grade ingredients, according to the class to choose two or three pieces into seven meat and three vegetarian ... I am afraid that these are all things that Yi Bingshou did not expect.