"Lu Xun: I said" is a fun meme of communication and mutual communication among netizens who are popular on online social platforms today.
On the one hand, because Lu Xun's many golden sentences of acupuncture and shortcomings can still lead the trend of the times to this day, they are cited by everyone;
On the other hand, people like to spread some sentences that seem to have a certain ideological nature under the name of Lu Xun.
When Lu Xun is mentioned, the first thing that comes to mind is the image of a democratic warrior with a sharp pen like a sword, sharp words, and a needle in the face, abandoning medicine and following literature, using pen and ink to expose feudal bad habits and break the illusion of backward thinking, and being invincible.
When lu xun is mentioned, everyone knows that he is a great writer, educator, thinker, and revolutionary, a strong leader of the new cultural movement, and one of the founders of modern Chinese literature.
When we think of Lu Xun, we think of the Baicao Garden and the Sanwei Bookhouse in the primary school textbooks, and we think of the leap soil and the lotus in the melon field at night...
Lu Xun has become an abstract spiritual guide, an intangible value orientation, but these labeled images also seem to be particularly cold and distant.
In fact, Lu Xun is a life master who loves food extremely much, he enjoys delicious food, is willing to share, and is a veritable "happy cooker of the Republic of China".
Whether in Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou or Xiamen, each city has his "food map", and even often writes his own "visiting the store" feeling in his diary, which records a large number of food names and shops.
A menu that recorded Mr. Lu Xun for more than half a year had exposed his "foodie" attributes, and this menu, which was exploded by Xu Guangping, was richer than expected.
Lu Xun recipe
At the Lu Xun Memorial Hall in Shanghai, there is a special collection that has attracted everyone's attention.
The collection is a menu recorded by Lu Xun's wife, Xu Guangping, a family recipe similar to a life record.
This recipe does not record the cooking methods of various dishes or the names of the dishes to be selected, as we usually think, but records the recipes that Mr. Lu Xun ate every day from November 1927 to June 1928.
In the records of the recipe, Mr. Lu Xun's daily recipes are very rich, and the combination of meat and vegetables looks very tempting.
Casually flip through, you can see that the recipes have steamed sand fish, braised cinnamon fish, ribs, steamed chicken, cauliflower beef, steamed fish fillets, stewed lamb, Luo Han Zhai and other "big dishes", the most basic configuration of each meal must also be meat and vegetarian three dishes and a soup, the degree of gold burning is shocking.
According to the statistics in Xu Guangping's recipe, eating every month alone will cost half of the family's income, although eating very rich is not only enough to feed, but also very high today to see the Engel coefficient.
This was also a relatively difficult expense for the families of Lu Xun and Xu Guangping at that time, and the cost of Mr. Lu Xun's purchase of books was relatively large, and there was no need to be so "luxurious" in eating.
But Mr. Lu Xun does not care, the search for food is a very important part of his life no matter what city he is in, and some people speculate that Mr. Lu Xun may not be able to cook out of love for his new wife and can't bear to let her cook.
But all in all, to be able to let his wife record such a detailed and rich recipe, no matter what factors, the most critical Lu Xun's pursuit of food is indispensable.
This recipe makes lu xun's image in everyone's eyes become more concrete and vivid, looking at the food that Mr. Lu Xun imports every day, it seems that he has also glimpsed a small corner of his daily life, and seen the Xun Ge'er who is obsessed with enjoying food every day.
In fact, there is such a recipe that surprises the world, as early as Xun Ge'er's diary and works can be seen.
Lu Xun in life left "Lu Xun's same cuisine" in various cities, and lu Xun's pen in his works has many classic Jiangsu and Zhejiang snacks that arouse people's curiosity.
There is also a record in the "Continuation of the Huagai Collection" that a friend brought some persimmon frosted sugar to Lu Xun, which he liked very much and cherished very much. I heard that this sugar has a strange use, some small sores on the mouth are good, so I quickly put it away, and then I still can't help but be hungry, and I thought of a reason for myself, thinking that I don't often have sores on my mouth, there is no need to keep it, and I ate most of it.
Lu Xun also took out his precious persimmon frosting sugar to entertain a female friend from Henan, but unexpectedly he was laughed at, saying that this was just an ordinary snack, Lu Xun suddenly thought that taking persimmon frosting sugar to entertain this friend was like someone else taking yellow wine to drink for himself, and there was nothing unusual.
But this also shows Mr. Lu Xun's love and cherishing of food.
Eating in life
A hundred years later, we praise Lu Xun as a writer, thinker, and revolutionary, and Lu Xun a hundred years ago was also an out-and-out gourmet.
There is a scene in the TV series "The Age of Awakening" that makes the audience relish, that is, at the banquet where Chen Duxiu was released from prison, everyone sitting around the table was still talking excitedly, but Lu Xun shouted:
"When the table starts, the saliva is about to flow out."
Such a contrast with the serious image in the usual textbooks has attracted everyone's attention even more, and I can't even believe that Lu Xun can speak like this, but in fact, if you look closely, you will find that Mr. Lu Xun is such a person who is so keen on food.
Mr. Lu Xun also has many anecdotes about food, such as because he loves sweets, he suffered from caries and rewarded himself with a Daoxiangcun biscuit after he went to the dentist.
Similar events are recorded in Lu Xun's diary.
"Before noon on the third day, I went to dong cichang's house with more than ten people in the ministry and quickly went to the ministry to see things. In the afternoon, Xu Jingwen, a dentist in Wangfujing, was treated for dental diseases, and agreed to supplement four teeth and contain a bottle of gargle medicine, with a total price of forty-seven yuan and ten yuan. Buy biscuits for one dollar over Daoxiang Village. ”
This is the content of Lu Xun's diary in May 1935, which recorded that he insisted on buying snacks and eating on his way home from his teeth treatment.
After Lu Xun returned from studying in Japan, the first city where he lived for a long time was Beijing, and in addition to holding public office in the Ministry of Education, he also taught at Peking University, Beijing Normal University, Beijing Women's Normal University and other schools.
From 1912 to 1926, he lived in Beijing for 15 years and "ate" in Beijing for 15 years, during which time there were nearly 100 famous restaurants recorded in Lu Xun's diary.
Restaurants recorded in the diary include Guangheju, CheapFang, Jixian Lou, Zhimei Lou, Tongheju, Dongxinglou, Xinghua Village, Lanweizhai, Central Hotel, Sichuan Hotel, Xi'an Hotel, German Hotel, Taifeng Building, Guangfu Building, Xinfeng Building...
Among these restaurants, Mr. Lu Xun's most frequented visit was Guangheju, the head of the "Eight Residences", when he lived in the Shanhuiyi Pavilion, and Guangheju was diagonally opposite the hutong where he was located.
The well-known Guangheju "three non-stick", fried waist flowers and other dishes make Lu Xun remember, Mr. Lu Xun not only often visits, but also often calls "takeaway" to the home.
The so-called "three non-stick", is the use of egg yolk, starch, sugar, water processing and cooking, pay attention to the cooking of the action fast, the finished product is not a complete cake, nor is it a real soup, with a spoon scoop, requiring a non-stick spoon, two non-stick plates, three non-stick teeth, refreshing sweet and soft, named "three non-stick".
Three non-stick is not only delicious, but also has the effect of anti-wine, so Mr. Lu Xun likes three non-stick may also have a love of drinking, Yu Dafu gave Lu Xun a poem once wrote:
"Drunken eyes hazy on the restaurant, as if screaming two leisurely."
In addition, according to the records of Mr. Lu Xun's diary, the "Hutchison" noodle shop's clear soup large pieces of beef noodles, the "Haitianchun" two meat shops, etc., although they are ordinary delicacies and cheap prices, have also been favored by Mr. Lu Xun.
Lu Xun also likes to eat spicy, spicy fish meal skin, dried plum vegetable button meat with peppers are Lu Xun's favorite dishes.
It is rumored that Lu Xun once explained to Hu Shi that he first ate spicy in order to relieve his difficulties, saying that shaoxing people's taste is indeed not good spicy, but he likes to eat in order to relieve difficulties, and when the night is quiet and the weather is cold, he picks a chili pepper into several sections and puts it into his mouth to chew, and immediately sweats on his forehead, his body is weak, and he is drowsy, and he can continue to read.
In addition to Guangheju, Tongheju Lu Xun, one of the "Eight Residences" in Beijing, also likes it very much, and its dishes are mainly Lu cuisine, and the classic dishes in the Lu cuisine are all available, such as fried fat intestines, nine-turn fat intestines, and three non-sticks.
Lu Xun especially likes Tongheju's fried shrimp balls, because this dish is more in line with Lu Xun's taste in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, and is a new dish created after the fusion of imported southern cuisine.
According to the diary, Lu Xun also liked the roasted steamed buns of Tongheju, that is, brushing the surface of the steamed buns with a layer of oil, sometimes slicing the steamed buns, and then baking them dry, browned and crispy, the outside is charred and tender, and the taste is excellent.
Later, Lu Xun also went to Guangzhou, serving as the head of the department of Chinese of Sun Yat-sen University in Guangzhou, settling in Guangzhou for more than half a year, and lu Xun recorded as many as 25 restaurants in his diary.
A steamed mud carp dish of tempeh in the "Miaoqi Xiangliji" hotel made Lu Xun praise, and the ice cream in the ice room of "An Paradise" and "Mei Li Quan" was also favored by Lu Xun...
In September 1927, Lu Xun went to Shanghai, and Lu Xun basically lived in Shanghai, which was the peak period of Lu Xun's creation.
During his time in Shanghai, Lu Xun also often invited friends to taste food together, and the "Zhiwei Guan" and the Yu cuisine restaurant Zi liangyuan Zhimei Building became places frequented by Lu Xun.
Zhiweiguan specializes in Famous Dishes of Hangzhou such as Dongpo Meat, Flower Chicken, and West Lake Vinegar Fish, which are very much in line with Lu Xun's taste.
Because of Lu Xun's love, in the 1980s, there were also foreign gourmets who came to Zhiweiguan and named several dishes that Lu Xun liked to eat.
Liangyuan Zhimei Lou is a Henan restaurant, according to statistics, Lu Xun has visited Liangyuan Zhimei Lou many times in less than a year, or feasted on friends, or gladly went to the appointment, this restaurant is a famous dish in Henan.
One of the famous dishes is called "grilled monkey head", is able to be with bear paws, sea cucumbers, shark fins on a par with the famous dish, deeply liked by Lu Xun, its main cooking ingredient is lion's head mushroom, once the famous translator Cao Jinghua also specially from Henan hometown to Lu Xun brought a very large lion's head mushroom, Lu Xun was very happy, specially invited several friends to taste together.
Lu Xun not only likes to eat food, but also likes to eat snacks, and his creation is often accompanied by snacks, and even eats different snacks when creating works of different themes, such as eating sweet when writing prose, salty when writing novels, and spicy when writing essays...
There are sentences in "Mencius" and "Book of Rites" that read, but as an important participant in the new cultural movement and a representative of the new trend of modern literature, Lu Xun did not shy away from his requirements and yearning for food, and even recorded his own food journey in his diary in a large space, showing his "appetite for appetite", which can not be described as uninteresting, so that posterity can see its "vivid and ordinary" side, and also shows the new fashion of the society at that time.
Pen to eat
Criticism and criticism are always the labels that accompany Mr. Lu Xun's works, and people are always accustomed to finding sharp and powerful sentences in Mr. Lu Xun's works, whether it is a prose novel or an essay, it seems to be shrouded in a strong color of political enlightenment.
The drawbacks of acupuncture do not hinder the expression of life feelings, simply focusing on the enlightenment attributes of the work, it is inevitable that some violent objects, ignoring landscape figures, eating clothes, is extremely regrettable, less vivid and interesting.
Read carefully, as a qualified rice cooker, the gastronomic delicacies in Mr. Lu Xun's works also have a considerable amount of space, which is worth savoring.
Kong Yiji, the only one who stood drinking and wore a long shirt, had to warm two bowls of wine and order a plate of fennel beans every time he went back to the store.
Fennel beans is a special snack in Shaoxing area, the main material is broad beans, accessories are star anise, fennel, cinnamon, salt, etc., salty and transparent, five-spiced, inexpensive and good, is a very popular local dish in Jiangsu and Zhejiang, especially in Shaoxing area, and Lu Xun wrote it into the work will also bring this hometown snack with a strong local flavor to the reader.
The nerds in the water world of "Social Drama" try to dig earthworms every day, dig and wear hooks made of steel wire, lie on the edge of the river, and catch a large bowl in less than half a day.
Such a stupid shrimp must have had an extremely meticulous life experience to know.
The most impressive is a satirical description of steamed fish in "The Diary of a Madman".
"The fish's eyes, white and hard, were the same as those of the people who wanted to eat people. After eating a few chopsticks, I don't know if the fish is a person. ”
At first glance, I feel creepy and creepy, only feel the horror of cannibalistic society cannibalism, and even such a satirical metaphor must be described through eating, which shows that Mr. Lu Xun's research on eating is meticulous.
The lotus white of the protagonist Fang Xuanyu in "Dragon Boat Festival" who has no money and lets the servants go to the credit account makes people wonder what kind of delicious it is.
When I first read it, I thought it was just cabbage, because I had heard that there was an elegant name for cabbage called lotus white, and later I heard that this lotus white was not more than lotus white, in fact, it was a dish that had been passed down for a long time, and it was said that its method originated from the Ming and Qing dynasties, and it was said that there was a method minimalist, which was soaked in white wine and lotus buds.
This dish was quite popular in Beijing during the Republic of China period, and the literati and scholars all thought that drinking lotus flowers and eating smoked goose wings in autumn to listen to autumn rain was really a wonderful place in life.
There is also "Wind Wave" with eating as the main scene, "black steamed dried vegetables" and "pine blossom yellow rice" hot fluffy smoke, although it is only a simple color description, but inexplicably make people have a very appetite.
Plum vegetables are well-known Jiangsu and Zhejiang cuisine, fresh and sweet plum vegetables with a strong meat aroma, it is also extremely tempting to think, and somehow the pine blossom yellow rice is even more reverie.
The fried kohlrabi fish, which is used as the correct standard by A Q, must add half an inch of green onion leaves to the village, but the practice in the city only needs to add finely chopped shallots, which is a fine study and love of food.
In Mr. Lu Xun's works, there will always be a variety of rare or classic food, which is mouth-watering.
Oil tofu hot sauce, steamed shark fin soup, smoked fish head, crow meat fried sauce noodles, fried rice porridge, taro soup... Or with a deep affection for local cuisine, or with a hint of mysterious hunting color, when reading Mr. Lu Xun's works, it is always inevitable to carry a few curiosities about the food in the book, which can be described as the Republic of China terroir on the tip of the tongue.
Some descriptions of Lu Xun portray him as a chattering warrior with a dagger and a throwing gun. The image is tightly frowned and solemn, without personality and life, while other aspects seem to have faded away, leaving only an empty shell. ”
This is a passage that Lu Xun's son, Zhou Haiying, said in an interview.
Regarding the matter of "reading Lu Xun", the most regrettable thing is to only read his branches and miss the "leafy" life atmosphere in his text. Whether it is life or writing, Lu Xun is not only preparing for battle at any time with the "blade", but also enjoying life slowly.
Everyone knows that "the horizontal eyebrow is cold to the thousand fingers, and the bowing head is willing to be a widow cow", but it is rarely noticed that this poem is a by-product of "Duff Appreciates Rice".
In 1932, Yu Dafu organized a dinner banquet in Shanghai, took out a plain silk to invite everyone to write a random inscription, Lu Xun wrote this famous sentence on the spot, and also wrote eight words in the upper corner of the word" "Dafu appreciates rice, idle people play oil", which appears to be both talented and emotional, and the clear style of celebrities is overwhelming.
In the face of the backward habits and ideas of the "cannibalistic society", Lu Xun attacked mercilessly, and even became a "literary enemy" with his former friends for the sake of his ideals, and tirelessly described the ideal literature and ideas in his heart.
It was the weakest and most powerful struggle of a literati and a national salvation person in the face of the ruined homeland, and living well and enjoying life was the hope that every citizen in the depths of the water could be enjoyed.
Those who rise up and fight for the people must have a pure land of harmony and yearning in their hearts.
Food, desserts, this is a quiet and peaceful corner of Lu Xun's heart, when we pay attention to the interesting side of Lu Xun's life, it will invisibly close the distance between us.
From the celebrities in the period of the New Culture Movement to the active rice workers in the Republic of China, this contrast makes Mr. Lu Xun's image more soulful, and he is no longer a cold and stereotyped person.