Buckle meat is a dish that spreads all over the country, probably where pigs are raised, there will be this dish, but the name is slightly different. Some places are called mille-feuille meat, some places are called roasted white, and Fujian Tong'an is called sealed meat, which is very image. The word "buckle" refers to the process of turning the bowl upside down after making it, and people who have seen it will feel that the name is more vivid.
In my eating career, the famous dish of buckled meat is like the mate selection standard of some men - first of all, it must go to the hall, and the button meat is at least an indispensable hard dish for banquets in south China, saying that it can be completely put on the hall; secondly, it is necessary to make a boudoir and show its true colors, rather than refraining from self-denial in the hall, dressing up gracefully and luxuriously, and putting up stinky shelves. I have a lot of personal experience with this. For this almost contrary requirement of buckling meat, I call it "red and black two ways", the red road is honestly a hard dish at the banquet, highly respected; the black road is by the master's spontaneous nonsense, how to rectify as much as you want.
The first hard dish I know and remember is button meat. The place with the highest status of meat is liangguang. There is a saying in liangguang, no chicken is no feast. In fact, no meat is not a banquet. Even if some people today hate fat and no longer regard button meat as delicious, but at the red and white wedding feast, it is still indispensable to buckle meat. Whether it is done at home or in a restaurant, it will make people laugh if they do not buckle meat. When I was a child, adults would pack up for drinking happy wine, and one day at lunch, I saw parents take out a large washbasin chowder to heat up, that is, they drank happy wine the day before. Now I still wonder, how can you still pack such a large basin dish after drinking a happy wine? In this chowder, there is everything, not all meat, but also a large number of fungus, vermicelli, tofu, yellow cauliflower, potatoes and other vegetarian dishes, it is estimated that it is accompanied by meat dishes. Meat dishes such as chicken, duck, fish, pigs and cattle also account for half, or large or small pieces, or three or two pieces, adding up to more than half. Of course, there will definitely be a few pieces of button meat dripping with fat oil.
Buckle flesh embryo
Honestly, this kind of chowder that came back from the whole basin tasted so beautiful that it could only be described as "strange fragrance", and I could never find this fragrance again. Probably the various dishes are mixed together, and the flavors are automatically harmonized, giving birth to new flavors. The whole taste, sweet, is the sweetness of the dish, not the sweetness of sugar. A dark fragrance constantly gushes out, both dull and open, no matter what ingredients are sandwiched, it is a newly synthesized taste, and it is difficult to taste the original taste. This taste is called incense. When I was a child, I couldn't eat fat meat, not coddled, but physiological conditioned reflexes, a dip in fat meat, even if I didn't let me know, I would vomit on the spot. But my old wife often talks about this, and when I encounter the button meat that comes back from eating happy wine, I can eat a piece of fat with thinness.
My father loved to eat fat meat, and he couldn't eat lean meat alone. He recruited workers into the factory at a very young age, worked hard as a farm worker all his life, did not have any personal hobbies, did not even know the simplest chess and cards, could not even speak Mandarin, and in his later years he could only sit on the sofa and constantly press the remote control. Occasionally, when a guest who speaks Hakka from his hometown comes, he always takes the opportunity to communicate with others, but he only asks repeatedly whether he believes his two masterpieces. One is to eat two and a half pounds of rice cooked in one meal in the later life; the other is to eat two pounds of buckled meat in one breath when the latter is born. There are some passages of betting on eating in this difficult time. I believe he had the feat of eating two pounds of buckled meat in one go, and this old man had been honest all his life, he hadn't even saved up anything to brag about, and he had indeed been fiercely hungry, so his words were not vain. This kind of passage shows that there was a period when people endured hunger for a long time, otherwise they would not often bet on how much they could eat; the subject of the bet was generally regarded as delicious, but the amount of bet was far more than the normal amount of food, but it could not stand the fact that some people often played extraordinarily. Therefore, this kind of paragraph has begun, and no one can guess the final win or loss result. Everyone loves to eat meat, but there is almost no chance to eat it bitterly. Become a bet, everyone is worrying about their own bets, but if there is a little hope, they want to gamble with him, so that they can eat raw meat. The temptation to gamble lies in this, which can make people fall into hell in the balance of desires.
Before eating, the button meat embryos should be boiled in the water pot to soften
If you bet today, eat two pounds of buckled meat in one go, no one dares to take the trick. In general, the button meat at the banquet is only one pound of meat. Meat grabbing is just a collective yearning of the hungry years, and has the potential to become a bet repeatedly. Today, when people are no longer trapped by the lack of oil and water and the diet is extremely rich, more and more people are afraid of fat and fat, and buckle meat is no longer a synonym for tall. Therefore, the two Cantonese people said "no chicken is no feast", but not "no button meat is not a banquet", although it is indispensable to buckle meat at the banquet. In fact, the button meat has been sneaked into the night with the wind, silently blending into the daily diet of the two Cantonese people. Many restaurants can order button meat, and needless to say. There is a meat on the feast, there will always be someone to eat, and finally the plate is also polished. Eat one or two pieces and don't kill you on the spot. Two Cantonese people have a bowl of rice noodles for breakfast every day, and one of the popular dishes that are candidates is button meat. Doubts about cholesterol can't stop the hot sales of sewage offal; similarly, worries about fat don't have to focus on eating one or two pieces of meat.
This piece of button meat has a typical tiger skin pattern, and this button skin is the most delicious
To this day, no matter how the buckle meat wind is evaluated, there are two major scenes of the two Cantonese people, but there is still a bowl of buckle meat, neatly coiled in the center of the table. One is the red and white wedding feast, and the other is the New Year's dinner of the big Chinese New Year's Eve. The most representative of Guangdong is the plum dish buckle meat. Plum vegetables are said to be from Huizhou, Guangdong Province, but fresh plum vegetables are made after many processes such as drying, selection, salt and so on, with golden color, fragrant aroma, and sweet and refreshing taste. Although it is shown in the face of pickles, it is listed as one of the three traditional famous dishes in Lingnan, famous at home and abroad, flowing throughout the country, it is said to enhance digestion, clear heat and relieve heat, eliminate stagnation and stomach, reduce lipids and blood pressure. Steamed button meat is a thick slice of pork belly cut into palm-sized pieces, the skin of the meat is steamed on the bottom of the bowl, and after steaming, it is taken out and inverted in another bowl, showing the beautiful appearance of the meat skin upwards. Before steaming, you can enjoy the arrangement of various condiments and side dishes on the meat slice array, enriching the content and taste of the button meat, preferably some refreshing ingredients to remove the fishy, these heads are called button meat bottom, because the button meat grease penetrates, and it is often fragrant to eat. Plum buckling meat is to chop plum vegetables on the meat, upside down into a dish and then pad under the button meat slices. The steamed button meat color sauce is bright red and shiny, a fragrance, the soup is sticky and delicious, fat but not greasy, soft and mellow; the fat of the button meat is injected down, and it is absorbed by the plum vegetables, the taste is suddenly plump, the color is golden and oily, the aroma is rich and fragrant, making people feel more delicious than the buckle meat itself. Some guys who don't pay attention to eating, when they see this dish, they first pull out the chopsticks to the bottom, pull out a large handful of plum vegetables, and clip them back into their bowls. There are different products in various places, and the main ingredients used to make the buckle meat base are various, dried bamboo shoots, salt vegetables, sprouts, potatoes, and winter vegetables are common button meat bottoms, but the most famous and delicious thing to say is the Guangdong plum vegetable buckle meat.
Cooked button meat embryos
Guangxi is represented by taro button meat. In any place, the button meat is arranged closely together with the slices of meat, but the taro button meat in Guangxi is not, but in the middle of each two pieces of button meat, a piece of fried taro of the same size is attached. This method of eating comes from Lipu City, Lipu taro is a specialty of Guangxi Dingding Daimyo, which was introduced from Fujian in the Qing Dynasty. This kind of betel nut taro is egg-shaped, very tall, generally two or three pounds, I have seen more than seven pounds, and Jiangsu, Zhejiang, Sichuan small taro compared, simply not the same species. Moreover, it tastes like a powdery texture with a natural flavor. Later, the Lipu people took it with buckle meat, cut the taro into slices of the same size and thickness as the button meat slices, fried them into yellow, and fished them out. When steaming the button meat, take a large bowl, put the taro and the meat pieces into the bowl, steam on high heat, take out a plate larger than the bowl and buckle it upside down on the bowl, quickly flip it, take the bowl open, and become the taro button meat with the skin facing up and neatly arranged. In this way, the button meat, the fried taro slices absorb all the excess oil from the button meat, which is more fragrant and fluffy, and the button meat slices are further greasy and greasy. When eating, pay attention to a piece of taro and a piece of buckle meat at the same time, stuffed into the mouth, a bite will go down, both the aroma of taro and the deliciousness of the meat, but also experience the taro sticky and button meat refreshing taste, the two are integrated, extremely delicious. It is said that during the Qing Jiaqing period, the Lipu people created this taro button meat and became an indispensable hard dish for the feast in northern Guibei. But the real fame and travel throughout Guangxi, should be the end of the last century TV series "Prime Minister Liu Luoguo" hit, implanted in the plot of the Lipu taro followed by a fire, taro buckle meat to become the representative of Guangxi. Previously, I, who lived in southeast Guidong, did not know that there was a good taro in Lipu.
Until the early 1980s, when I was in junior high school, the county units had the custom of dividing pork for the New Year. At that time, the classification of government organs, enterprises and institutions was not very clear, but most units had a canteen. The canteen is responsible for raising pigs with leftover meals, and even if there is no food leftover, they have a way to fatten the pigs. At the end of the year, pigs will be slaughtered and divided into meat, and the gang will be scattered for the New Year. At that time, both cadres and workers rushed back to their hometowns in the countryside from the county units for the New Year. Near the Spring Festival, many units have nothing to do, even the ground has been swept several times, is waiting for the pork, so as to quickly go back to their hometown to clean up the New Year. My parents worked on the county farm, and when I returned to the mountain village at the junction of Guangdong and Guangdong, there were 50 or 60 kilometers of sandy dirt roads. My father rode a twenty-eight-inch bicycle, with a small rattan chair temporarily inserted in the front and rear frames and beams, plus the New Year goods tied to the car and the people, and was able to transport the four of us back to the mother and son. Before this grand trip, the home in the county town had already done everything for a round, so they waited to receive pork, do some homework, and then leave for their hometown.
Cut the fat and skinny hob pieces and stir-fry them first
This lesson is to deal with the pork you receive. The amount of pork distributed each year is variable, fluctuating between about thirty or forty catties. I remember that when I got up in the morning and went to the basketball court to see the liveliness, the pigs had already been killed, and the people in the canteen and the office were dividing the meat. Piles of meat were stacked on the pitch, with numbers written in chalk next to them. The pork that is divided into eight classics is to cut the carcass of the pig in a regular manner, weigh two pounds, and pile it up. This is the content that every household values, and it must be divided fairly, otherwise it is possible to fight. Then divided into water offal, at that time this thing did not have so many fanatics, just to relieve the hunger, chat to make up for the lack of meat, so the pig belly pig intestines, pig heads and pig feet these things, it is impossible to divide into each pile, this pile of pig belly, that pile of pig feet, everyone has no opinion. If someone has a special hobby, after receiving it, they can also discuss with each other and change it. After they are all divided into piles, each household will send a representative to grasp the cast, and whichever number is caught will obediently take which pile, and no more shouts are allowed. Generally speaking, people who divide meat also have to participate in the lottery, so there will not be much difference between each pile of meat, and there is no quarrel, so quickly use buckets and basins to carry their own meat back and start to deal with it.
After receiving the Chinese New Year meat, my mother was busy all day. First of all, the pork should be handled cleanly, some good meat should be picked out, cut into seven or eight long strips, and marinated in a jar with fried coarse salt. Bobai climate is humid and hot, there is little long period of cool weather, can not make bacon, one way to preserve pork, is to marinate into bacon. I was under the impression that it was still possible to eat bacon by May Day. Visiting relatives during the Chinese New Year, salted pork is one of the important Annual gifts. Either a piece of salted pork, or a slice of cooked chicken, plus a few sticks - a kind of glutinous rice and sticky rice mixed with refining and kneading into a skin, and then wrapped in the filling, banana leaves or rice dumpling leaves, the whole deck of playing cards the size, thick, long-cooked dim sum, in the past New Year, regardless of the city and the countryside, every family has to do, now less - this is the most basic content of the New Year's gift. Normally, you bring a piece of pork or chicken to go to relatives, eat this piece of meat for lunch, and return to the host's house in the afternoon to pack another piece of meat for you to bring back. However, some rural relatives do not have a unit to divide pork, if they do not kill pigs this year, they can only go to the meat stall to buy a few pounds, do the procedures of deducting meat, worshiping ancestors, and walking relatives, all rely on these pounds of meat. When someone goes to a relative, the meat they bring cannot be eaten happily, and they must be careful to save it, use it when they go to their relatives, or send another relative. Sometimes, it is not surprising that you send out a piece of bacon and suddenly reunite after half a month.
Add the sauerkraut
In addition to curing meat, there is a more important process, which is to fry the meat. Buckling meat is not only a delicacy that should be eaten in the New Year, but also conducive to preservation. The meat that is distributed, in addition to the cured meat, can always cut out three or five or even seven or eight button meat embryos, each one pound and a half or so, eat one or two at home during the New Year, and the rest will be reserved to entertain those who are really superior to the distinguished guests, and each family will have several guests with higher status than ordinary relatives. A button meat debut, and then with some dishes, the article is easy to do, the guest and the host are happy, it is certain.
The process of making button meat is very complicated. First make a buckle meat embryo, the three layers of five flowers of flesh into a square, square, rectangular, to ensure that the fat and lean meat even the skin is complete, good luck, some lean meat is still connected to several pieces of cartilage, but also to keep. Then cook thoroughly in cold water, cook until the skin of the meat can be easily inserted with chopsticks, fished out to dry, after cooling, use chopsticks to evenly insert the skin as much as possible, and spread soy sauce, rice vinegar and salt to the skin. Cook half a pot of oil, when it is hot, add the meat cubes, quickly buckle the lid, turn the heat to low and fry slowly. When the meat embryo is first put into the pot, the cold fat and hot oil are excited, and it will be as hot as an explosion, and the hot oil without the lid is afraid of splashing all over the stove. After two or three minutes, the pot is calm, you can uncover the lid, until the golden skin is white, quickly fish up and dry a little, turn the heat to raise the oil temperature in the pot to 60% hot, and then re-fry, slightly the skin of the meat becomes golden, you can immediately fish out, soak in cold water, half an hour later fish out to dry, that is, become a button meat embryo. Soaked in cold water, in order to buckle the skin of the meat to become a tiger skin, which looks good and delicious.
Add water and simmer until the meat is soft and sticky, then the juice can be put away
Bo bai people new year, after frying the button meat, but also fried a kind of "hibiscus meat", is made of flour stirred pulp wrapped in meat pieces under the frying pan fried. When I became an adult, I traveled and gained some insight, knowing that this was similar to the "crispy meat" that existed all over the country. We make hibiscus meat by beating a few eggs into flour and stirring them into a very thick paste. Cut some pork belly strips or semi-fatty lean meat strips, turn them into the batter, swirl a few times, and stick to the batter, that is, put it into the oil pan and fry slowly over low heat. In a few moments, the meat-wrapped batter will swell and grow larger, and soon it will ripen, emitting a strange fragrance, and quickly fished out and dried aside. For our children, the most exciting part is this time to fry hibiscus meat. When the meat is fried, it looks lively and smells fragrant, but the meat can't move. When frying hibiscus meat, take advantage of the parents' lack of attention, seize the opportunity to steal a piece and stuff it into your mouth. The hibiscus meat that has just come out of the pot, like the fritters that have just come out of the pot, has the strongest aroma and the most crisp taste, and even if it is reheated after it is cooled, the taste becomes tough. Fried pork is often arranged after dinner and calmly opened. This night, in order to taste the hibiscus meat, we also postponed the sleep time, accompanied our parents in the kitchen, helped to burn the fire to see the stove or something, in fact, mainly to add to the chaos. But the night of the hearth frying of meat, in addition to the appetite, gave the children a strong sense of New Year's ceremony. By this time, in fact, we were already in the New Year. On this night, every family on the farm received pork, and they all had to fry the meat, and a group of us children went door to door in groups to watch the ceremony, which was the last collective happiness before the New Year.
Hibiscus meat
My mom was in the kitchen, and she actually had some craftsmanship. Fried button meat and hibiscus meat these serious New Year goods, she will also pack up some pork intestines, meat skin and other things, fried a fry, take out and then process it during the New Year, are good dishes. In addition, she also deliberately fried a lot of irregular corner lean meat pieces, when eating button meat in the New Year, she cut a few slices and stuffed them in the bottom of the button meat, which was to take care of me who hated fat meat. As soon as the button meat was on the table, I stretched the chopsticks down and clipped two pieces of pure lean meat out. The lean meat processed in this way actually tastes the same as the layer of lean meat on the button meat, but it saves me the trouble of removing the fat. A piece of button meat, the most delicious part is actually the buckle meat skin, especially those that deliberately fried out of the tiger skin pattern. Pork skin originally taste tough, and there is nothing worth worrying about the smell, but the buckle meat skin followed by the whole piece of buckle meat, after boiling, frying, re-boiling, steaming and other processes, the taste is completely different, very sticky and soft, and then I ate sea cucumber, suddenly found that the stewed sea cucumber, the taste is the same as the buckle meat skin.
Fried goods such as button meat and hibiscus meat can be stored for a long time. There is a large cylinder at home, the bottom of the cylinder is lined with a small half cylinder of lime, the lime is separated by several layers of oil paper, and the dry goods fried before the New Year are neatly placed on it, and after the end of the year, when an important day or a distinguished guest comes, it will be calmly taken out for further processing. Whether the meat is on the white or black road is different when it is reprocessed. Generally speaking, a grand ceremony such as Chinese New Year's Eve meals, or entertaining guests, must take a white road and cannot come in a nonsense. Take out a piece of button meat, first cook it softly, cut it into slices side by side, and then use the juice of five-spice powder, soy sauce, tempeh, curd milk and other condiments to spread each piece of meat carefully, the skin of the meat is laid down in a large bowl, the lean meat is facing up, my mother usually chops some shallots, garlic white, celery and pickles, thickly spread on the lean meat noodles, the right to buckle the bottom of the meat. When cooking the button meat, a few pieces of specially fried lean meat are specially added, and at this time, they are stuffed in the bottom of the button meat. Then steam on high heat for a quarter of an hour, wrap the heat in a wet towel, take a bowl with a bowl larger than the bowl of steamed button meat, cover the button meat bowl, flip it up and down, remove the original steamed button meat bowl, become the skin of the meat up, the bottom of the button meat is tightly pressed under a row of meat slices. A large bowl of buttoned meat, which looks beautiful and neat, must be placed in the center when served on the table. This is a kangzhuang red road.
My family Chinese New Year's Eve button meat on the meal, because it is the New Year, so it is a red road
Let the buckle meat go to the red road, although the face is beautiful and dignified, but the procedures are cumbersome. Sometimes, if the button meat is only eaten by the family, in a hurry, it is directly let go through the underworld - made into a loose buckle. When eating, the meat embryos are also cooked softly, but instead of cutting them into neat pieces, they are cut into matchbox-sized hob pieces, trying to ensure that each piece is fat and lean and connected to the skin. Then, sauté slightly in the pan, slightly oil, then add other side dishes, add water and simmer. The best is to stew sauerkraut, stew in the button meat will be oily, sauerkraut sucked away, suddenly the taste is fuller, the taste also becomes round and lubricated, the button meat is more refreshing, fat is not greasy thin and not chai. However, this kind of sauerkraut should use the kind of dry pickled leafy vegetables, and the two commonly used radish tassels or mustard greens are just salted and dried, which can be pickled out of the fragrant sauerkraut, salty, sour and crisp. This kind of dry pickled sauerkraut will painfully suck the grease from the button meat. The soaked sauerkraut is not so easy to absorb.
Loose buckle stew pickles are also good things, after years of dried radish or kohlrabi, it is best to pickle older, already some of the old, cut the minced to soak away the excess salty taste, add the stir-fried loose buckle and stir-fry well, and then add water to simmer for a long time. By the time the meat is simmered, the pickles are already full of flavor. Bring it to the next meal, and anyone will add food. Sometimes you can't find the accessories for a while, you can also pour beer and stew. After the button meat is stir-fried, pour into the whole bottle of beer, stew and dry the juice, the button meat pieces of the dish are crystal clear, shiny, and soft and delicious to eat, never greasy.
The button meat is made into a loose buckle, taking the underworld, in addition to not having the sense of solemn arrangement of the ceremony, in fact, it is easier to taste, the taste is richer in eating into the mouth, the layers are varied, and the fragrance is deeper and purer. There is a little tip, no matter what accessories are used to stew, it is best to add some Guilin curd milk when stir-frying loose buckles, stew until the pot is about to start, add a large handful of garlic stalks and celery segments cut into inch lengths, the taste is more refreshing.
The famous Hezhou Huangtian buckle meat, Nanning Hezhou restaurant, there are many people who order button meat
In the first month, a little brother made a table opening New Year dinner in his company, and one of them was braised with sauerkraut. The button meat is made by his hometown to kill the new year pig, and the sauerkraut is pickled by his wife with large-leaf mustard greens. Two plates were served and snatched up in an instant. When I went back, he took a few pounds of sauerkraut from the jar and gave it to me, I froze in the refrigerator, not fried like other sauerkraut to drink porridge, but to see which day there was free, clean up a piece of buckle meat, stew carefully, and then fry a green vegetable tofu, about one or two friends come over, open a bottle of wine, drink will be up. During the New Year, I got a lot of button meat, which has been piled up in the refrigerator, only this method, do not pay attention to craftsmanship, but eat people's stomach ironing incomparable.