"South rice and north" is the basic pattern of The distribution of grain-producing areas and staple foods in China.
Rice is mostly used as the main grain in the southern region, and flour is mostly used in the northern region. Such a situation is clearly divided but mixed with each other. This is especially evident in the transition zone between north and south, such as my hometown of Hanzhong. As the old saying goes: "It is better to walk thousands of miles, it is better to walk on both sides of the Huai River" is that people in the Jianghuai area still feel that their hometown is good after walking through many places. I would like to say, "It is better to walk thousands of miles than on both sides of the Han River", as the largest tributary of the Yangtze River, the Han River feeds tens of millions of people, and Hanzhong is an important small city on the han river. As the dividing line between the north and the south of China, the "Qinhuai Line" has the personality characteristics of both southerners and northerners, and it is also suitable for rice and noodles in terms of diet.
In Hanzhong, rice, rapeseed and wheat were also grown. However, the yield and quality of wheat cannot be compared with that of the Guanzhong region, and the area of field cultivated with wheat has gradually decreased in recent years. However, all kinds of snacks in Hanzhong have the appearance characteristics and core spirit of rice and noodles. Such as dough, powder, pulp water, vegetable tofu, walnut steamed bun and so on.
Hanzhong dough, called dough, is actually made of rice. Hanzhong people go out to do business, mostly selling dough skins. In order to distinguish it from Xi'an Liangpi and Northwest Brewed Skin, the signboards of Hanzhong noodle shops in other places are written as "Hanzhong Hot Rice Peel". But the Hanzhong people still stubbornly called it dough skin, as if calling it hot rice skin and hot cool skin was betraying the ancestors.
The dough skin has always been firmly in the top position of Hanzhong snacks. The pink skin that is softer than it, and the powder skin that tastes better than it has always been a concubine, and I don't want to shake the position of the main chamber of the dough.
Hanzhong rice, soaked overnight, hard rice becomes crisp and soft, ground into rice milk in a certain proportion of water, basket steamed. Pulled out of the cage drawer, the dough was snow white and soft, brushed with cooked rapeseed oil, and cut quickly with a large knife. With a special seasoning soup and large particles of chili oil, the dough is sticky in the mouth, the tongue and teeth are soft, and the side dishes are crispy, and the square is authentic Hanzhong dough.
If the dough is mixed and crushed, it is not steamed and steamed. If the dough is too thick, it must be an uneven cage drawer or a mismatch in the preparation of rice syrup. Spinach or bean sprouts eat cotton stuffed teeth, no crisp sound, no need to ask, must be blanched vegetables, layman's approach, if you want to be crisp and raw, you must steam in the cage drawer.
The Hanzhong dough skin made of rice milk has to be called dough skin, which I think is in response to the noble memory of the Hanzhong people for pasta. "White rice noodles" has always been our collective name for noble grains, but in the early years, when rice production was not high, the Hanzhong region was also dominated by noodles, as evidenced by the Hanzhong pot helmet buns, the noodles of the pots, the noodles of the pulp, and the surface of the pulp water. Later, after Hanzhong rice was made into a new food, the hanzhong people first thought of calling it dough instead of rice peel, and probably still felt that the noodles were more expensive.
It is impossible to know when Hanzhong dough was born. About 10 years ago, when I first walked out of Hanzhong, I saw such a brand story about Hanzhong noodle skin on the wall of a "Hanzhong Remipi" store in Xi'an: When Liu Bang became the king of Han, he was depressed because he could not get Wang Yuguan center. One year after the rice harvest, Hanzhong was raining continuously, and it was not sunny for half a month. After harvesting the rice can not be dried in time into the warehouse, farmers are afraid of rice mildew, with unsparched rice scooped rice, scooped out of the rice is too soft, farmers will pound into rice milk basket steaming, as food. One day Liu Bang went to the countryside, hungry, and walked into a farmhouse at random to eat, and the farmer's family only had steamed Hanzhong dough skin. After Liu Bang ate it, he felt that the taste was very good, but it lacked seasoning, and it was recommended to improve, so there was a later Hanzhong dough. At that time, when I saw this legendary story, I believed it to be true. Just as I am convinced that xi'an gourd head is really Sun Simiao to help get rid of the taste of pig intestines, so it is called gourd head.
Years later, I saw a joke in Chen Xiaoqing's article: "In order to make the Chinese food culture rich, the ancestors also fought." They held a meeting to discuss that Qianlong should manage the food along the canal, "when he first went down to Jiangnan, he suddenly saw ..." Cixi said that the Jin-Shaan snack belonged to her, beginning with "The empress dowager is hunting in the west, hungry and thirsty.". Zhuge Liang commanded the three southwestern provinces, Qi Jiguang was in charge of the southeast coast, Su Dongpo had a wide footprint in his life, and was hesitating where to stand, Qu Yuan hurriedly came over and pulled his clothes: "Hubei is me!" I couldn't help but think that I was really young when I saw the legend of Liu Bang and Hanzhong's face.
The dough skin of Hanzhong is like the character of Hanzhong people, warm and soft, hot and sour. Hanzhong belongs to the northwest in terms of administrative divisions and southwest in terms of geographical divisions. Hanzhong people have the northerners haoshuang dunhou and the southerners' delicacy and softness. Hanzhong women belong to the small family jasper type, with the fiery personality of Sichuan girls, but unlike The sharp teeth of Sichuan girls, Hanzhong women have their own unique tooth acid and gentleness.
Sichuan people say: "Chongqing sister's teeth are sharp, Chengdu sister's mouth is sharp", and the Hanzhong women fed by the Han River speak and theorize that they do not lose people in their mouths, which is powerful. The endless water of the Han River and the Qin Ba Mountain gave the Hanzhong women a contradictory personality that was as gentle and spicy as water and rock, so they enjoyed the blessings and suffered bitterly.
"Out of Moutai Town, can not make Moutai wine", Hanzhong dough and Moutai wine a problem, leaving Hanzhong can not make authentic Hanzhong dough skin. From the bamboo cage drawer brought in Hanzhong, Hanzhong rice, Hanzhong pepper, Hanzhong seasoning, to Xi'an, the same method, the steamed Hanzhong dough skin is no longer that taste. This may be the reason why one side of the water and soil nourishes the other side, and the water and soil are different, and the flavor is different.