[ Sex，Fish and Zen ]
Fish futon
Dead and alive is a neutral word,
Enough to describe all intense joys and sorrows.
This year coincided with The Qingming Festival and Easter,
When it is gone, it is born again.
I happened to be eating a knife and fish feast, the publisher asked for a manuscript, and the preparation of the new book was about to begin again. I was a little distracted. It could be that the cat on the eaves of the spring is crying sadly, and you want it to be happy, either to give it a friend or to give it a fish, and obviously the latter is much wiser.
I once said, "There's an element in aquatic products that makes people who are in lovelorn happy." "There is a scientific basis for the happiness of draft capacity. Originally, the tyrosine rich in aquatic products is the "source of happiness" - the basic element of dopamine formation. But all happiness can not be talked about so clearly, such as a friend said to me that "men usually use money to measure the distance between them and the girl they like", I think it is not unreasonable, but "fish joy" money can not be bought. Even the nobility of a fish cannot be measured by money alone, let alone a person.
I stood on the cliff at the top of the food chain with a shock, thinking of the fish, I could not move, looking in the mirror, it was just a giant cat. This year's "Sea Mistake Map Love Notes II: Fish Futon" is still based on the ancient underwater story "Sea Fault Map" written by Nie Huang in the Qing Dynasty as an index, and describes the attractive seasons of aquatic products and the stories of gourmets and famous chefs from the perspective of my recent travels and eating and drinking. Some people objected, saying that last year's "Love Notes on the Wrong Picture of the Sea I: The Joy of Fish and Water" was a love poem about the ocean. Yes, this time there are still sea creatures that reproduce, migrate, and mate. I want to copy an old love saying, I love three, the sun, the moon, aquatic products. I love three things: the sun, the moon and sea food. the sun for the day，the moon for the night, and sea food forever.）。
Using the name "fish futon" as a name, I did not initially mean to be fierce, but the Zen meaning about the universe and life in it really moved me. When you meet a beautiful woman, first chase it as respect. Like delicious, I use "love to eat" to express piety. But love is selfish and sometimes greedy. Fujian scenic spot soil shoot jelly a lot is gel fake freeze, Ningbo is difficult to find wild yellow fish, turtle yellow eel body is full of drugs... More than enough is too much.
The Yangtze River "no fish", one is because human beings are excessively indulgent, and the other is that we have no reverence for nature. Originally, I wanted to borrow the name of Lanling Xiaoxiaosheng's "Golden Bottle Plum", but I felt that although I was happy, I was not merciful. The root cause of Ximen Qing's death is clearly written in the book: The official heard that his spirit is limited and the world's lust is endless. It is also known that "those who have deep lust have shallow vitality", Ximen Qing only knows greed and pleasure, and he does not know that the oil is dried up and the lamp is extinguished, and the marrow is exhausted. "The white expanse is really clean" is not the author's original intention. I thought about it for a long time, and it was more appropriate to borrow the name of Li Yu's "Meat Futon". The male protagonist of this book, Wei Yangsheng, and Ximen Qing of "Jin Ping Mei" are the same disposition, and "female color is life". In the end, Wei Yangsheng penetrated his desires and took refuge in purity, which was also a good ending. Originally, life took and nourished each other, but as a result, after "exhausting and fishing", he simply cut with the dust edge and became a monk with peace of mind. The fish of the world will come back for future generations.
All laws have a time limit. A lot of friends who live in the city say that "there is food in the city", maybe decades ago, but now I disagree. Probably too many people used to "measure and taste distance with money". Now, even a handful of wild cabbage in the spring, it grows in the fields of the countryside, hundreds of kilometers away people have to eat, relying on money alone is useless, but also meet the luck.
We swear that we are living at the top of the food chain, but we are lonely people who are difficult to eat good things, and we are natural outcasts. The fish that parents love to eat, especially the Wuchang fish, Chinese sturgeon, knife fish, anchovies bred in the Yangtze River... By now, either it is extinct or it is no longer the same thing at all, and the ban on fishing in the Yangtze River is sooner or later helpless. I remembered that before I talked with Master Peng Ziyu about the upper reaches of Dujiangyan in the 90s, there were wild watertiples, water bees and stone climbers that were fresher than the "three fresh people of the Yangtze River", and now it is difficult to find traces. The stone climber has suction cups in its stomach, and when swimming against the rapids, it can suck under the stones to rest, and die as soon as it is still water farming. There is a hidden scaled Yayu in the Ya'an Zhougong River, and there is a bone spur resembling a sword in the skull. Many people have lived for decades without the opportunity to see authentic Yayu, and the ordinary farmed "split-bellied fish" circulating in the market hangs a "Yayu" signboard, and there are few doubters.
Before tasting the "Knife and Fish Feast", I sighed with Master Sun Zhaoguo about this matter, "The world has changed, the source has changed, and the needs of young people do not have much ability to distinguish." In the spring we slowly stop eating chicken. Chicken laying eggs, indicating that the New Year is over. Ducks lay eggs and farm, and spring is the season of sowing. Why eat salted eggs during the Dragon Boat Festival, cool, moist, can not come in reverse from the seasons, you have to follow the rules. At this time of the Dragon Boat Festival, the rice dumpling leaves are fragrant, and the rice dumpling dogs in the Mid-Autumn Festival do not smell. Young people, unlike us who come out of the mountains, live on the water, stay in the ocean and eat the taste of the city, how to make the food original and delicious, there are many scene-based things. ”。
He said that he first entered the industry in the early 80s, when the first sentence he learned from his master was", "'Eating' is a pleasure for the body and taste, and if it is to follow nature." The essential characteristics of Chinese cooking are taste-centered, nutrition-oriented, delicious and non-nutritious do not eat. It is important that the food is clean. There is no large-scale planting, pesticides and fertilizers are spawned, and it is close to nature. What to eat in spring, beans, bamboo shoots, toon, wild celery... People have just finished the New Year, and there is oil and water in their stomachs. Spring water boiled vegetables are very comfortable to eat, which is a physiological need. ”
Most of the food we can get at our fingertips now is cultivated or reared, and it has long lost the qi of heaven and earth. In the city, "the season is expensive, the farmer is very hard, the cost is high, and it is rare, so that people are willing to help salvage or collect." "The countryside will be better.
"The food is very strange, the lilies in Lanzhou, Gansu, the taste is sweet, Tengchong is very pink; yam is very powdery in Jiaozuo, moisturizing the lungs; to Wenzhou the shape has also changed, the taste is the same as glutinous rice, get rid of dampness." Why shanghai has no specialties, the climate is too good, very balanced. Master Sun said.
"Shanxi is jealous, and it turns out that not eating the body will be hurt, because of the saline alkali land." Zhenjiang vinegar is a historical reason, brine duck has nitrite, eat vinegar neutralize. "Master Sun went to Tongling in Anhui to find that ginger is very good, Tongling is a place where heavy metals come out, ginger is good for the liver and gallbladder, cholecystitis is good for eating ginger." Now the dish is called urban delicacy, desperately concave shape, a lot of original taste. Food tastes like people, no matter how beautiful, the home is still simple and loose, lazy, the same return to a variety of life. "I thought to myself, there are few good ingredients, but you don't have to put on makeup to go out!"
A cup of coffee under the belly, such a knife fish Suffrey afternoon tea time, connecting with the tense tasting of Sun Zhaoguo's master knife fish feast.
The whole feast takes place in "Eye Rush". "Suck the juice to smoke the fish, the soup water is easy to lose, when eating, you have to take a bite and suck it, and it will be lost if you are slower." Master Sun reminded. I am a Jiangsu and Zhejiang child who grew up eating the smoked fish version of the blue fish, this is the first time in my life to eat the knife fish version, sucking juice smoked fish is fresh and sweet, a bag of water.
When the first part of "Love Notes on Sea Mistakes" was first published, a friend talked to me about the most delicious parts of various fish, and the nose of the knife fish was of course among them. But in such a precious situation at present, one or two really can't taste it. Many years ago, a Cambodian prince visited Shanghai with a knife, and the Chinese side specially invited the knife and fish master to make a "stir-fried knife and fish nose". It's a singing singing out now! However, the Qing Dynasty writer Qian Yong said in the "Luyuan Cong" that knife fish is "the first delicious dish in the opening of spring, and the abdominal intestine is particularly delicious.". Such internal organs flowed into imagination, and I was lucky to be able to eat the nose of a steamed knife fish this time.
Master Sun said, "Wait a minute, he will divide the bones." The knife fish is handled without opening the intestines and peeling the belly like other fish, after removing the scale gills, the bamboo chopsticks are inserted into the gills and the intestines can be twisted out.
We were still talking about how the knife fish cherished the scales like gold, and when the scales fell off, they died, only to see him carry the head of the fish with chopsticks, and half of the body of the whole fish gradually separated from the other half until it hung vertically. I marveled that this steamed knifefish could not have been just right! When deboning, chopsticks can gently "pull a line" to separate the flesh and bones.
A large mouthful of fish meat into the mouth, the tip of the tongue slowly sucking on the palate, a bag of soft and fine bone in the blink of an eye into a ball of silk shape spit out. Taking advantage of the fact that the "fairy spirit is not dispersed", I quickly ate the knife and fish meat with my head covered. When I looked up, I realized that the next door had begun to stir-fry knife and fish rice. Just fish soup homeopathic rice!
The red sauce of knife fish rises in the pot with a caramel flavor, and a bite of rice is accompanied by a mouthful of rare stone ear knife fish ball clear soup.
"The fish bones before the Ming Dynasty are soft as cotton, and the fish bones after the Ming Dynasty are as hard as iron." After the bones are fried, crispy! Make salty pastries.
Master Sun Zhaoguo asked, have you ever eaten salted knife fish? I asked: Huh? It is a luxury to have salted knife fish in the world. Knifefish are already few, and there is no reason to "waste time". The salted knife fish have reached the precious level of shangfang sword.
This salted knife fish lined with seasonal vegetables in the spring, tender and flavorful, which is more delicate and dense than the steamed "gobble- and swallowing" method of eating on the previous strip, and the lips and teeth are delicious.
He said, "After 85 years, one of the three Mo brothers was the originator of Huaiyang cuisine and taught to make double-skinned knifefish. Remove the knife fish meat and keep the skin. The production is more complicated, first the knife fish opens the back and removes the keel. The cutting board is covered with meat skin, and the fish meat is knocked with the back of the knife, and the fine spines stick to the fish skin. Too heavy fish meat will break, so the strength should be appropriate. Then the knife noodles are dipped in water, the meat is scraped off, and the pork fat and spring shoots are mixed to make the filling, and the seasonings, onions and ginger juice are added... Stuff it back into a knife fish and steam it. ”
Master Sun used the double-skinned knifefish as inspiration this time and creatively added a salted knifefish. Salted fish is cooked with fresh fish and is called "Wenwu Yao" in Zhejiang. I said that the "wen and martial" double males in the knife and fish world are really rare. Master Sun said, "Food also has the concept of yin and yang, 1 + 1 is greater than 3. Knife fish is a luxury to make salted fish, two fresh knife fish plus a salted knife fish meat mixed together, beaten into a puree, brewed into a knife fish, even fresher. Steaming should be on fire. The most fragrant part of the knife fish is the fish skin or fish scales, he fried it at high temperature, phospholipidification, the juice will be more fragrant. ”
Double-skinned knifefish is a near-lost stunt, and I am satisfied with the unique version of the salted fresh knifefish meat this time. The skin of the knife fish with soft scales is like broken silver, the precious knife fish oil extracted between the scales is used as the base oil, the white wine is steamed, and the tooth is a fragrant mine when it is touched.
This time the trial is not over! Knifefish are narrow and have many spines. Yuan Zicai of the Qing Dynasty provided two methods to solve the fish bones in the "Suiyuan Food List": one is to "scrape the fish fillets with a very fast knife and use the tongs to remove their spines", and the other is to "cut the fish diagonally behind the back with a fast knife, so that the broken bones are broken, and then fry the yellow in the pot... When I was about to eat, I didn't know that there were bones." This time I ate the second, cool, slightly ripe version.
My carb ring was broken by the knife fish this time, and the bare knife fish wonton had two versions of soup fried. The soup of knife fish wontons is boiled with knife fish bones and shrimp rice, and I actually ate them all.
When the half-spring seeds and wild fungus emerge after the rain, they are like oil and water to nourish people. Knife fish handmade noodles are directly made with knife fish stock and noodles, which is particularly refreshing.
Three-sided olives are consumed after meals. "Everything is in harmony with each other, and many unique things have unique habits. Two industries in China come from the private sector, one chinese food, one Chinese medicine, you say Hua Tuo has studied in business school? Shennong tasted hundreds of herbs, 24 hours is not bad, the expected date is not bad, this is wisdom. One is called sumac, and making furniture coffins is lacquer paint. In the spring, people go up the mountain to fight toon, encounter this tree allergy, the face and private parts are swollen, strange itching. The Bafang tree is just fine when it is washed with boiling water. Nature is great! Master Sun said.
It's really much better in the stomach after eating. Sigh again, immortal qi, it is good to receive the earth qi.
The ancients had a hard life, but there was a kind of happiness, that is, they could eat good things close to the doorstep, and we now have the necessary salt, knives, and fire, and we can't even survive a day when we return to the forest without beasts. Our loss of the ability to survive in nature, not to mention, nature has also been destroyed into unnatural because of our "disrespect".
"Sea Mistake Diagram Love Notes II:Fish Futon" will have more aquatic sounds than the first part, and I pity those "passed" while hoping that we will have more "rebirth".
After the first day of Qingming, the knife fish is no longer delicate and renamed "fish". I hope that after this life, it will be anonymous and no longer have anything to do with the "measurement of money". Holding a bright sword, it is good to travel the world.
The godmother asked
What kind of fish do you like to eat?
"Bass fish (knife fish) lettuce is suitable,
Also a drunken flower before the flower comes. ”
- Land Travel
Food Bless You！
Consultant of China International Food Expo
Producer of "The Table of Gods"