Taste is also a bellwether for ethos
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The words that write about food are words that go straight to the heart. So I like it. I want to write, I eat my senses, it has nothing to do with you, can understand.
A taste that can be written by thousands of people, every sentence is the voice of the heart, and the sound is different. But what kind of taste is the best? That must be powerful.
Yes, the taste is also powerful.
Wuhan's hot dry noodles are delicious, Zhenjiang's pot lid noodles are refreshing, and they have become a way of life that the public can't leave every day, which is the power of taste. Don't think about it, it's unforgettable. This is also like blockchain, which does not change with the attitude of one or two people.
However, the delicacies of many places are rarely found in words. This is almost the time for us foodies to quietly take up our jobs. The meat noodles in Danyang Lingkou Town are a case in point.
We drove from downtown Zhenjiang to Danyang Lingkou just for a bowl of pork noodles. Unexpectedly, the first word that collided was "premature". "Premature" is a very Hubeiese word to the effect of eating breakfast, and in an encyclopedia, only some southern regions are also used.
Unexpectedly, the tomb mouth was embedded in this "southern region".
Let's talk about meat noodles first, because the word "meat" is also quite urgent. Yes, Zhenjiang is famous for its three monsters, which noodle restaurant in the city does not have meat, why give up the near and far?
It turned out that the meat of Danyang Lingkou Town was completely different from this.
Lingkou meat is commonly known as "rat meat" because it looks like a mouse with its tail dragged from a distance. There is no common jelly, and there is a thin bone stick of meat, Zhenjiang locals have not seen it. Don't underestimate this "mouse", it is the best lump of tendon meat on a pig, and on a pig, only in the position of two front legs, there are two pieces.
Dragging a "tail" or meat? Hey, that's why I like to run to Danyang: Danyang is not only the mausoleum of the Six Dynasties Emperors, but also a lot of food with ancient style.
In ancient times, "cuisine" referred to fish and meat dishes, including the famous Zhenjiang cuisine, which used to be called a single word "cuisine". Mr. Qiu Pangtong, a veteran foodie, said: In Jiangsu Province (in fact, it is not so big), "cuisine" refers specifically to a food made from pig's trotters. Jingjiang cuisine is really a good taste in the southeast.
I will not describe the meat, Mr. Qiu said: with a crystal "frozen child", the lean meat part is red like fire. It is multi-cut rectangular in thick flakes supplied... Hey hey, if you put a plate of cut Lingkou meat in front of you, I don't know how Mr. Qiu will describe it.
It is reasonable to say that Zhenjiang cuisine meat because of the skin jelly, fat and thin, melt in the mouth, the taste will be more plump. However, Lingkou pork is a full-bodied tendon meat, because of the special cooking process, there is no little wood at all, but also a special aroma and tenacity.
I thought that there was another reason why Lingkou meat was sought after today: pristine. Delicious and visible, there is no need to associate the quality of the meat.
Mr. Ye Lingfeng has also written several articles on Jingjiang hoof dishes, do not read do not know, the original with bone sticks, is the top quality in the meat!
Mr. Ye said: "Food is about eating pieces, eating one piece counts as one piece." When the old tea guest eats a dish, he always has to ask the official one more sentence: a few more glasses! This is the naked eye part of the leg meat, that is, the Cantonese people call rat meat, cut into exactly two circles, it looks like glasses, so called 'glasses', which is the best of the hoof dishes, only one or two pieces in a dish. ”
The word "meat" has been solved, and now it is time to talk about the "three mornings" in "premature".
The "three mornings" of Danyang Lingkou Town refer to: morning tea, morning noodles, and morning wine. According to the locals, at three or four o'clock in spring and summer, and four or five o'clock in autumn and winter, there are people tasting tea, drinking wine, and eating noodles... This is indeed an enviable "slow life".
There are also people in Zhenjiang City who eat "three mornings".
However, it is a very rare to eat "three mornings". It can be seen that the rhythm of life in the urban area makes it difficult for people to have this idea of "stretching out". I once lamented and envied Suzhou Taicang in the circle of friends, where the town is full of teahouses, of course, pure tea and mahjong, rarely drinking noodles.
There are also many noodle restaurants in Danyang Lingkou Town, and there are actually fifty or sixty small towns.
According to locals, lingkou town's eating "three mornings" was most prosperous in the 1950s and 1960s. The tea house provides each tea guest with a purple sand pot and a purple sand, so that the tea guests can chat about lunch. During the "Cultural Revolution", the tea house was gradually shut down, and after the "Cultural Revolution", it was gradually restored.
Regardless of what others think, I think the "three mornings" reflect a quality of life.
In the "three mornings" of Lingkou Town, "Early Face" is definitely the protagonist who thinks that C debuted. It is said that in the 1950s and 1960s, the business of noodle restaurants in Lingkou Town was particularly prosperous, with small noodles for seven cents a bowl, large noodles for nine cents a bowl, and a dime for a piece of meat.
This noodle, divided into dry mix and red soup noodles, has a strong lard aroma, and it is not much better than the dry mixed noodles of Baoyan.
"With morning tea", Zhenjiang people refer to both eating breakfast and drinking tea in the morning. It is better to drink black tea in the morning, and the locals used to drink more is Keemun black tea, which can wake up the spleen and stomach, but can be used as ration tea, which is the accumulation of a morning tea culture.
The "morning wine" drunk by the Lingkou people was first bulk glutinous rice shochu, which was better produced in Danyang Lizhuang Town; later changed to bottled Fenjinting or Yanghe Puqu liquor, which was not a burden every day; there were also yellow wines, mostly Danyang local specialties old wine and sealed cylinder wine, the color was like amber, drip mellow, very nourishing.
This time, we were instructed to go straight into the largest noodle restaurant in Lingkou Town, the "Arin Cuisine Meat Noodles" noodle restaurant, which is said to be the oldest noodle restaurant in Lingkou Town, and there are no less than 100 guests who patronize the morning market every day, and some of them still come from other places.
We ordered pork, marinated pork ears, dried noodles, red soup noodles, etc., ginger shredded, cowpea and dried radish are all given away, which is about 20 yuan for customers.
In Danyang, the meat noodles must be accompanied by a plate of ginger shreds, plus a bowl of Danyang people's favorite - barley porridge, just a little Lingkou Town's specialty dried radish, which is the standard. Of course, ginger silk must be accompanied by Zhenjiang balsamic vinegar, and some old gourmets also have to drop a few drops of balsamic vinegar in the noodles, that is "meritorious consummation".
The current head of "Alin Meat Noodles" is called Zhou Alin. His wife Li Xiaofeng introduced that Zhou Alin's ancestral home was Yancheng. One of the hottest meat noodle restaurants in Lingkou Town was opened by the people from Yancheng, which is an interesting topic.
Although we did not drink "morning wine", we might as well eat noodles and do a little fluttering reverie.
Looking back at the beginning of the last century, Zhou Alin's grandfather took a family of old and young, rowing a small boat, starting from Yancheng, the autumn breeze was cool, the sun was shining, and they went south along the Beijing-Hangzhou Grand Canal... At each market, they stopped their boats and pulled up stalls to sell pasta.
According to the current parlance, it is a process of information gathering and feedback, with a strong randomness, and there is a definite number in the dark.
On the eve of the founding of New China, the family came to Danyang Lingkou. They found that the locals were more popular, the residents liked pasta, and the business was relatively easy to do, so they chose this place to spread their branches. They may not know that the Lingkou people have been called "eaters" in history.
Subsequently, Zhou Alin's family mastered the art of making meat with sticks, and a famous shop gradually formed in exploration.
Lingkou is named after the entrance to the Xiao Clan Tomb of Qi Liang in the Southern Dynasty, and is one of the historical towns of Danyang and the famous hometown of leather shoes, where merchants gather. Delicious meat noodles have retained guests with their characteristics, and guests have also left the "premature" lifestyle in this thousand-year-old town...
Floating in the sky, the vicissitudes of the mulberry field. I can't help but make people more interested: "Boss, another bowl!" ”
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