#我来唠家常#
▲ Wind and dew. / Chengdu Linxi Photography
-The Legend of the Gentleman of Things-
"Qing Pingle" is over
Will the back wave of Hanfu come?
In the chant of "Emperor God, Hajj at Four O'Clock", Gengzi's first popular drama "Qingping Le" came to an end.
This song "Ode to the Holy Virtue of Qingli" is indeed the sunset lonely city of Song Renzong, Empress Cao, and Huirou, but it is also a literary paradise for talented and beautiful women and white-clothed ministers, and it is also a prosperous and prosperous era for peddlers and pawns, and cart and pulp sellers.
▲ Stills from the TV series "Qingping Le". Figure/Network
Although "Qing Pingle" has reached the final chapter, the storm brought by this butterfly has just begun. At noon on May 11, 2020, a merchant launched a new Song-made Hanfu "Spring Here" series, and sold 45W+ orders on the same day alone, reaching 60W+ in two weeks, setting the highest record in the history of Hanfu merchants, and high-profile announced the advent of the era of Hanfu "Great Song Fengya".
▲ Different styles of "Feng Ya Song" Hanfu. Photo courtesy of Chengdu Linxi Photography
From 2002, when some people discussed the traditional costumes of the Han nationality on the forum, to Wang Letian, the "first person to go to the street in Hanfu", put the self-made qufu (a style of Hanfu) on the street, and then to the young people in Hanfu in Station B's "Hou Lang", which has become an important cultural symbol of this generation, and it has been 18 years.
▲ Hanfu clips in the video of "Hou Lang" at station B. Picture/"Hou Lang" video
Hanfu, which first extracts fragments from TV dramas and then draws nourishment from traditional costumes, is trying to condense the symbols of "beauty" in different eras: the heroic posture of the Wei and Jin dynasties, the round and jade of the Tang Dynasty, and the slender waist of Song Yun......
The first to become a benchmark for Hanfu is the Ming Hanfu that advocates "thick fiber and heartfelt and short fit".
How particular can a "bright wind" little skirt be?
The wide robe has large sleeves, layered on top of each other, and the skirt is deep and ...... The Ming system, which doesn't eat much of the figure, is the "ivy" of Hanfu.
The most popular is a plain jacket skirt. Just like in the novels of the Ming Dynasty, in the new autumn, the women's dress recommended by the golden wind at the time of coolness: "Yueniang wears a willow green Hangzhou silk jacket, a light blue silk skirt, and gold-red crested high-soled shoes," The lines are soft and beautiful, like calligraphy. "Pair jacket" is "placket", the collar type has a round neck, a collar, a square collar and a standing collar, among them, the standing collar that was popular in the late Ming Dynasty kept warm at the same time, showing a slender neck. The sleeves are divided into large sleeves, pipa sleeves, and narrow sleeves, especially the pipa sleeves have a soft curve, which is liked by the people of the time.
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▲ Figure 1: Ming vertical collar cape, Figure 2: Ming jacket skirt. Photo by Chan Yun Hee
The most distinctive representative is a flowing horse-faced skirt: there are four skirt doors inside and outside, overlapping two by two when worn, and the skirt is decorated with threads, woven gold, mud silver, etc., and the sides are pleated. The number of pleats was originally six pairs, following the ancient ritual, "skirt dragging six pieces of Xiangjiang water", and by the end of the Ming Dynasty, the pleats gradually increased, with eight pairs or even ten pairs, and they moved like water lines when walking. Wearing a horse-faced skirt, she is really a woman like water, and her demeanor is striking.
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▲ Horse-faced skirt. Photo courtesy of Figure 1 / Lan Ruoting, Photo courtesy of Figure 2 / Chengdu Linxi Photography Minghuatang series
But to choose a piece that can kill ordinary lovers, cultural relics restoration, daily wear and even the eclectic variety of Han and Yang, the first recommendation is the "Bailuo Flower and Bird Embroidered Skirt". The bottom material of the skirt of this skirt is a dark folded plum blossom white Luo, the waist is spliced with dark diamond pattern white silk, and the hem of the skirt is embroidered with red, green, yellow, blue, black silk thread mountain stones, flower butterflies, small bridges and flowing water, birds and colorful phoenixes, etc., what do you really want, what is there. In particular, the bottom of the skirt is faintly visible with golden pinching teeth, which conceals the "careful opportunity" of beauty.
▲ Ming, white Luo embroidered skirt. Excerpt from the catalogue of "Sven Zaiz - Old Costumes from the Confucian Mansion". In 2013, the Shandong Provincial Museum held a "Special Exhibition of Old Confucian Costumes", and the catalogue was compiled after the exhibition.
This skirt is too catchy, and even Hanfu lovers always say, "Every girl must have a flower and bird skirt": from the printed chiffon version to the machine-embroidered imitation flower Luo version, the most precious thing is to use the fixed weaving white Luo as the base and restore the pattern with Suzhou embroidery technology. "The double mandarin belt on the embroidered skirt is in the spring heart every year. "An embroidered skirt with a beautiful vision costs five figures, and it will take a year to receive this precious work of art.
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▲ Q version of Daming's clothes. Cartographer/Capture Fang Master
The richness of the Ming Hanfu can be seen from the "reference scheme" that a simple small skirt can have. The owner of Chufang once published a set of "Q version of the Ming Dynasty Clothing Atlas", although it is a popular science of ancient clothing, but in the hearts of Hanfu lovers, there are willows and willows in the heart. The Q version is clear at a glance, and the characters are well-behaved and cute, which makes people fall into the pit in seconds. This book refers to the "Ming Huidian" and "History of the Ming Dynasty" in style, and the actual object refers to the cultural relics of the imperial tombs of the Ming Dynasty and the old costumes of the Confucian Mansion.
▲ Ming, fragrant hemp flying fish robe. Excerpt from the catalogue of "Sven Zaiz - Old Costumes from the Confucian Mansion".
If a man who loves Hanfu wants to stand up, he can imitate a "fragrant hemp flying fish robe" in the old collection of Confucius. This flying fish robe is shaped as a sticker, with a collar, a large placket on the right side, wide sleeves and a waist, two pairs of blue ties under the armpits, and a wide hem. White silk collar, colorful weaving over-the-shoulder, flying fish waves and river cliffs, shoulders, sleeves, knees at the colorful weaving of flowing clouds and walking flying fish, youthful and ubiquitous.
Friends who are familiar with costume dramas may want to blurt out, isn't this the flying fish costume worn by Jinyiwei! In fact, the word "flying fish suit" is really a "beautiful mistake", and all clothes with the "flying fish" pattern can be called flying fish suits, and the correct shape is called "sticker" or "trolling".
▲ Stills from "Embroidered Spring Knife". Figure/Network
"History of the Ming Dynasty: Career Official Chronicles" records: "Jinyi Wei ...... The rising sun, the setting moon, the ploughing, and the livestock, then wear the flying fish suit, wear the embroidered spring knife, and serve the left and right. The crew of "Embroidered Spring Knife" mistakenly took the clothes worn during the festival as the daily uniform of the brocade guard, and the warm tour of Lord Lu Yi around the capital in "Under the Brocade" made people want to stop, and the flying fish costume became a hit in Ming men's clothing by mistake.
In addition, the imitators of the Ming system have more abundant "ammunition". In the "History of the Ming Dynasty and the Costume Chronicle", there are detailed regulations from the emperor, down to the common people, dance and music personnel and even monks, not to mention that there are thousands of Ming Dynasty costumes hidden in the Confucian Mansion, silk, silk, satin, crepe, yarn and other fabrics, using embroidery, silk, hand-painting, printing and dyeing and other crafts, as well as accessories, headdresses...... There are so many tricks that it can't be imitated.
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▲ Figure 1: The top of the gold-encrusted treasure hat. Figure 2: A crown of a cloud dragon with a gold and gemstone white jade openwork. Figure 3: The crown of a gold filigree jeweled hat. Figure 4: The crown of a gold-set colorless sapphire. Figure 5: The crown of the hat set with sapphires in gold. The tomb of King Liangzhuang was unearthed, Ming, Hubei Provincial Museum. Photography/Arterial Shadow
From the rich accessories and headdresses, to the numerous clothing forms of the Ming Dynasty, and even the imitation of Ming homes and courtyards, these elements together create a magnificent "Ming model".
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▲ Ming Hanfu, group portraits. Photo by Chan Yun Hee
Déjà vu "Song" returns
It's just that the popularity of Hanfu has changed even faster than the four seasons. The graceful and luxurious Ming system, once you meet the beautiful and feminine "Great Song Dynasty Elegance", it is a bit "out of favor". Kneading the blue shirt and apricot yellow skirt, leaning on the jade and being speechless, the gauze skirt is dyed with tulip, and Bo Luo is about to see the makeup; Tianbi dyes the scarf, and the blood-colored light Luo folded skirt...... It's really "the wallet is getting thinner, and people don't regret it, so they frown and go to their hearts".
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▲ Imitation of the Song lady. Photo by Chan Yun Hee
The women's clothing trend of the Song Dynasty is a hot style, and it is the best thing to do is - the gown, parallel double straight collar, long to the knee, elongating the proportions of the human body, making the woman in the gown look weak and moving, in a word, thin.
▲ Henan Yanshi Song tomb brick carving rubbing. Cartography/Tatsumi
In addition to the texture of the body, the gown is mostly in the placket, cuffs, and the edge of the side seam of the armpits to make a fuss, from the characters and flowers, to the birds and beasts and landscapes, but also to embroidery, gold printing and other crafts to decorate, quite a Chinese subtle beauty.
▲ Southern Song Dynasty, smoke-colored plum blossom Luo embroidered lace single clothes, Fujian Museum collection. Photography/Arterial Shadow
Several gowns unearthed from the tomb of Huangsheng in the Southern Song Dynasty are mostly "Luo". Luo, using the warp weave, the texture is light and thin, the silk is slender, the warp filaments are intertwined with each other, presenting a stable pepper hole, which is "Qiluo silky wisps see the skin". Behind it is the weaving technology that reached its peak in the Song Dynasty, and the spirit of material abundance is promoted, so there is "the first time the beauty tries the thin Luo shirt" in Yan Shu's words, and also sees Li Qingzhao's words in "lightly dissolve Luo clothes and go on the Lanzhou alone".
▲ Detail of "Ge Yuetu", collected by Shanghai Museum. Photo courtesy of the mountain dwellers
The recent "Qing Pingle" is enough to make people think of the golden age of the literati: in the court, the famous ministers and Confucians fought with each other and fought-for-tat; The carved beams and painted buildings of Bianliang and the bead curtains of embroidered households attract an endless stream of businessmen. Order tea, burn incense, arrange flowers, and enjoy a leisurely and quiet "slow life".
Such an elegant background gave birth to the familiar "memorization and dictation of the full text of the heavenly group" in later generations: Ouyang Xiu, Fan Zhongyan, Yan Shu, Su Shi, Fu Bi...... It is no wonder that Chen Yinke said that "the culture of the Chinese nation has evolved over thousands of years, and it was created in the era of the Zhao and Song dynasties."
▲ Good clothes are indispensable for good accessories. Design/Tatsumi
Just like the section of the Empress Dowager Liu E's "Gongfu Temple", you can get a glimpse of the shadow of the ancient crown and clothing system. The Zhou metric system was used for music and a relatively perfect crown and dress system was established. Later generations basically inherited the Zhou system, with only slight changes in specific details. Among them, the gon dress, together with the "crown" and the "crown", is the most noble dress in ancient times, and was only worn by the emperor during major ceremonies such as sacrificing heaven and earth, and temples.
▲ In "Qingping Le", Empress Dowager Liu's uniform. Figure/Network
In the play, Empress Dowager Liu lowered the curtain to listen to the government, and the dynasty weighed the system for many years, and in the first year of the Ming Dynasty, she asked to wear a gown to worship the Taimiao, which caused an uproar in the government and the opposition. In the end, with the support of Renzong and Yan Shu, Empress Dowager Liu's gown removed the Zongyi and algae patterns that symbolize cleanliness and filial piety in the twelve chapters, removed the sword, and won the Taimiao. This woman's hardships in the past few decades, although she has no intention of taking the throne, still shows her ancestors the pride and persistence of her achievements, which moved all the audience.
In order to depict this painting of the Northern Song Dynasty in detail, costumes, makeup, and props (hereinafter referred to as Fuhuadao) are very important. According to the publicity, the play invited Chen Shiyu, the costume consultant of "National Treasure", to participate in some costume research, from the emperor and queen to the peddlers and pawns, a total of more than 3,000 costumes were customized, which can be called very attentive.
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▲ Stills from "Qingping Le". Figure/Network
TV series such as "The Son of Heaven" have become the initial thoughts of Hanfu lovers, and the craze of Hanfu in recent years has forced film and television dramas to be more nuanced and "immersive" in terms of service. For example, in "The Twelve Hours of Chang'an", a dance of sandalwood chess immediately makes people dream back to the majestic Chang'an that is full of flowers but like a fire cooking oil, which is probably the charm of "people and clothes".
What shapes the beauty of Hanfu?
Hanfu has built a dream of brilliant culture for lovers, and behind this beauty, it is inseparable from a pair of smart hands. Today's Hanfu has long ceased to be draped in sheets on the streets, and many hometown crafts have been reactivated by Hanfu, which is probably also an unexpected joy.
▲ Suzhou silk production process. Photo by Jian Chen
It is like the "Luo" in the silk and satin, a word, carrying the infinite reverie of today's people on the ancient scenery. In the Song Dynasty, Luo is already a frequent visitor, and in "Dream of Red Mansions", Jia Mu mentions a kind of "soft smoke Luo": "That soft smoke Luo...... If you make a tent and paste the window drawer, and look at it from a distance, it will be like smoke, so it is called 'soft smoke', and the silver-red one is called 'shadow yarn'." The rain has passed the azure, autumn fragrance, pine green, silver red, although it has not been seen, it has fallen in the heart of the boundless wind and moon.
▲ Song Luo fabric displayed at the Suzhou Intangible Culture Center. Figure/Network
Before the rise of Hanfu, it was difficult to find a bosom friend in China, and the few high-end Hualuo factories in Suzhou were mainly engaged in exporting to Japan, South Korea and Southeast Asia to make "kimonos" and "hanbok". "Sang out of Luo Xi Zhe out of Aya, Ayaluo makeup out of Huanting", so with "Su Luo" is a difficult brother, there is also "Hu Aya".
Huzhou, because it is located on the shore of Taihu Lake, the soil quality is suitable for planting mulberry and silkworms, since the Tang Dynasty, has been an important production area of silk, known as "lake silk all over the world". "The flower is silk, the vegetarian is silk", the production of silk in Huzhou in the Ming Dynasty reached its peak, and it was known for being as light as cicada wings and as thin as morning mist. In the Qing Dynasty, it was exported to Japan and Southeast Asian countries, and was popular overseas.
▲ Ming Dynasty silk patterns: falling flowers and flowing water flower silk (upper left), ball road brocade (upper right), lantern satin (lower left) and dragon and phoenix wearing flowers and weaving gold satin embroidery (lower right). Excerpt from "History of Chinese Costumes"
It is a pity that in modern times, silk and silk fabrics have been mainly used for the mounting of calligraphy, painting and handicrafts. Nowadays, there are also Hanfu merchants who cooperate with Huzhou intangible cultural heritage inheritors to establish the "Hu Silk Museum" in Keqiao, Shaoxing, to display and sell Hanfu made of Guanghua Aya, Jin Aya, Hu Aya, etc., so that the style of "red sleeves weaving silk and boasting persimmons, Qingqi Gu wine and pear blossoms" can reappear in the world.
▲ Xiangcheng Yuan and silk are a kind of traditional handicraft techniques. Photo by Wang Jianjiang
In addition to Suzhou embroidery and silk, Hanfu is indispensable to wear with accessories. This has also led to many crafts that were once all the rage.
During the Kangxi period in the early Qing Dynasty, Yangzhou was famous all over the world. Tongcao flower imitates the flower type with Tongcao as raw material, with soft texture and elegant tone, and is known as "the flower of no thanks". Empress Fucha once ordered to "abandon the pearl cui and change it to the grass velvet flower as the decoration". In the period of the Republic of China, there was a custom that everyone in Yangzhou wore flowers.
▲ Yangzhou velvet flower skills. Photo courtesy of Chengdu Linxi Photography
The modern grass flower skills have been lost to the verge, a post-95 Hanfu lover named "Yunyu" brought it into the field of vision of Hanfu lovers as a Hanfu headdress, attracting the attention and learning of many young people. The non-genetic inheritance master even played live broadcast to bring goods, and Tongcaohua was thus rejuvenated.
Nanjing Velvet Flower, which once had the reputation of "Palace Flower", and Hubei Yingshan Winding Flower, which is known for its "small", "skillful", "fine" and "live", ...... The reactivation of these almost disappeared intangible cultural heritage handicrafts will put the finishing touch to the creation of today's Hanfu.
Hanfu, where is it going?
At the end of April, the China National Silk Museum announced the theme of this year's "National Silk Hanfu Festival", which is "Great Song Dynasty Elegance". What is surprising is that the national silk launched a high-end Song Hanfu suit, with three warp twisted Luo, plain silk, flower silk as the base material, with Suzhou embroidery, gold printing process to depict the pattern, the cost is expensive; two days later, Lan Ruoting announced the 5.11 Song Hanfu new, the set of colors is rich, the price is as low as ever in the center of the earth.
▲ High-end Song Hanfu suit. Photo courtesy of Chengdu Linxi Photography
High-end and popular, rich and thrifty by people, costume dramas provide imagination, museums and handicrafts provide nourishment, and become the "storytelling" that merchants are good at, as said in "Hou Lang", "turn the traditional into modern, and the classic into popular." ”
▲ Modern style Hanfu office and subway scenes. Photography / Weibo @ Zhen Yuxiang Model / Xuanji, YaYa, Xiaomo, Ah Ling, Chu Ming, Youyu, Qingxuan
Hanfu is also fading away from the noise of existence and non-existence, moving with the trend of commerce, and returning to its essence as a garment - in line with the season, wearing it on the body, feeling the quiet of the years, and imagining the eternal romance.