Of all the cities in China, the only cities that can be described by the word "delicious" are Guangzhou and Fuzhou.
But the two are very different. Compared with Guangzhou, which has the temperament of a famous woman and is cheerful and extroverted, Fuzhou is more like a small family jasper with an introverted personality. In the case of Buddha jumping off the wall, this dish, which almost represents the face of Fuzhou' door, uses almost the most simple and low-key way to deal with complex ingredients: put in a black clay pot and simmer for a long time. Without any showmanship, when the fire is enough, it will naturally surprise your eyebrows.
In Fuzhou street food, there are few publicly brazen fried barbecues. Known as the three major Flower Dan of Fuzhou snacks, meat swallows, fish balls, Dingbian paste, all low-key steaming and boiling, in the refreshing soup, see the original appearance of the ingredients: Dingbian paste with clam juice to make juice, shallow only half a pot, and then the ground rice milk along the side of the pot a circle poured over, when the rice milk in the pot side into dry skin after the spatula scraped into the soup, plus celery, green onions, shrimp skin, shiitake mushrooms and other ingredients, creative and imaginative boiled together. The clear soup is white batter, three or two green, a little bright red, into a pot of rivers and lakes; the fancy of the fish balls is hidden in the inner core, and the refreshing and elastic fish meat is wrapped in the aromatic grease of the pork and the thick soy sauce flavor, which is the beauty that needs to be bitten down by hand.
The meat swallow, the first of the three major flowers, is another low-key style.
From a certain point of view, meat swallow is actually a combination of two foods, "flat meat" and "swallow skin". Flat meat, or flat food, is very similar to Shanghai wontons. The difference is that the dough skin of the flat meat is thinner and finer than the skin of the small wonton, and it is translucent under the light, such as the lamp shadow beef; the flat meat filling is the meat that comes out of the glue after beating, that is, the kind of meat that makes Chaoshan beef balls, so the two are relatively good at each other, the Shanghai wonton meat taste is stronger, and the flat meat of Fuzhou is more elastic.
Swallow skin is a snack with more Fuzhou style, mostly mixed with fish, pork, or two kinds of meat, added sweet potato starch, pounded into thin slices and dried food. In a way, it is an evolved version of lunch meat, because it is dried and pounded tightly, so the texture is much tougher and more chewy than lunch meat.
Fuzhou people are full of imagination about the way to eat swallow skin, which can be steamed, fried or boiled. Swallow skin soup is the simplest, after shredding swallow skin and green vegetable leaves together into the clear soup boiled, light sesame oil, sprinkled with green onion, and add a lot of white pepper, into the eyes like run jade jade, the entrance is fresh and spicy. Fried swallow skin is also very delicious, while hot dipped in chili sauce, tomato sauce, than the pot, potato chips are much more pressing. My favorite is the swallow meatballs, which are rolled on the surface with a layer of extremely finely sliced swallow skin, cooked in broth or steamed in water, the swallow skin preserves the juice inside the balls, and it itself gives the balls a more interesting and flexible taste.
Today's protagonist, the meat swallow, is to use the swallow skin instead of the dough skin wrapped in flat meat, taking what these two foods are good at.
Tongli Meat Swallow, which has been passed down for four generations, is a famous old brand in Fuzhou, and I have witnessed the birth of Meat Swallow in the back kitchen of this shop: select a few soft and moderate tendon muscles on the hind legs of pigs, remove all the meat tendons with great care, and refine them with thousands of hammers to get minced meat, and some of them are mixed with duck eggs and other spices to make meat filling. Part of it, together with the potato flour produced in the mountainous area of Luoyuan County, the northern suburb of Fuzhou, was adjusted to the proportion of gold, and a piece of swallow skin as thin as paper, tough as silk, and transparent as jade was kneaded. The master of the meat swallow was fast, and he hardly saw the process clearly, and those thumb-sized swallow skins wrapped in meat filling flew into the boiling white soup for a long time, floating with the boiling current, like the swallow entering the clouds. After a few moments, I fished a circle with a wire mesh and poured it into a bowl. No extra seasoning is needed in the bowl, salt, seaweed and green onions are enough.
When brought to the diners, the meat swallow soup is clear and slippery, and one is picked up and sent to the mouth, and the crisp swallow skin collides between the teeth. Take another bite, the sweet juice of the pork bursts out of the mouth, and the potato flour in the dough does not have any superfluous smell, just to cushion this faint sweetness. The small meat swallow could not withstand several chews and slid straight into the abdomen.
The skin of Tongli meat swallow is not added to the fish, pure pork, and the meat filling is a mother and twin. The whole process is done in one go, quite like making a chiffon cake, separating the egg white yolk, processing it separately, and finally melting it into a furnace of charm.
In his later years in Taiwan, Yu Youren once wrote such a sentence: "Fuzhou chicken chirping, Keelung can hear." The Iraqi people are across the shore, how should they not? Later, people always felt that he was thinking of his homeland. But this old man, who flaunts the perfection of his life with food, emphasizes Fuzhou by name, and people have to wonder whether he is still worried about Fuzhou's low-key and introverted, and paying attention to incomparable food.
(This article is the special content of NetEase News and NetEase number "each has its own attitude")
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