In the twenty-first century, the pace of economic globalization has accelerated. The rapid development of the Internet has made the world smaller and smaller, and the new mode of communication and communication has allowed people's thoughts and preferences to be seen, concerned and expected, and have begun to have more fashion trend discourse. The bold and fearless new generation of designers has grown into a vigorous fashion force, and the era of hundreds of schools of thought is coming, and the next 100 years of the fashion industry are more and more worth looking forward to.
On March 31, 1989, the WWD featured a photo of Demi Moore wearing a corset, "Die Hard" cycling pants, and a Rain Man cloak on the front page under the title "Fright Oscars," noting that the set was "not the designer's fault."
Demi Moore，1989
Since then, the stars' Oscar red carpet looks have been played with safety cards, and the best looks of each year can be divided into four categories according to the style of dress: princess (Gwyneth Paltrow, 1999; Penélope Cruz, 2007); Greek goddess (Anne Hathaway, 2008; Jennifer Lopez, 2007); straight and strapless dress (Renée Zellweger, 2007); straight and strapless dress (Renée Zellweger, 2007) 2001; Jennifer Aniston); Little Black Dress (Julia Roberts, 2001; Angelina Jolie, 2009).
Initially, Lady Gaga was just an obscure and talented singer. On August 13, 2007, WWD headlined her appearance on the stage of the Lollapalooza Festival in Chicago. Later, she swept the world with irresistible momentum.
Lady Gaga，2010
Today, Lady Gaga has become one of the world's top singers and has pioneered her own acting career. She is bold and versatile, whether it is a couture dress or a special outfit, she can wear it very well. In an interview with WWD, she spoke about the Mac AIDS Foundation's Viva Glam campaign.
In 2010, Lady Gaga became the world's most followed Twitter user with nearly 6 million followers, and the fashion and beauty industries are fascinated by her. In an interview with WWD in May 2010, Giorgio Armani said: "She has become a phenomenon, she is charming, every time she appears it is a play. At the Met Gala that same month, Oprah Winfrey said: "She is not only a pop artist, but also a symbol of spiritual strength." She is her, helping us to accept our true selves. Stephen Colbert, for his part, teased Lady Gaga's versatile look, saying, "I can't wait to see her next look." It feels like stylists will surprise us by putting glue on her. ”
For the modeling world, slim figures have always been mainstream, but the components of "slimness" have been changing. In 1993, Kate Moss became famous overnight for Calvin Klein's advertising campaign, and the industry as a result preferred slim to even somewhat skinny figures, a popularity that sparked a backlash from the mainstream media.
Madrid Fashion Week banned overly slender models from appearing on stage, 2006
Although this trend of extreme emaciation was no longer there, people's obsession with slender figures did not diminish. In 2006, Madrid Fashion Week banned models who were too thin to participate, and Milan Fashion Week required female models to have a BMI of no less than 18.5. At the same time, the CFDA has also launched a health initiative, hoping to address "the general concern that some models are unhealthy to be thin."
Karl Lagerfeld disagreed with such a decision, saying that legislation for model weight was "politically correct fascism." "There are more fat people in the world than thin people, and overweight can also cause great health problems," he said. Stefano Gabbana told WWD: "The modeling profession has always had a specific standard of body type – tall and thin. But there are also a lot of designers who are in favor of the bill's implementation, Carolina Herrera told WWD: "We all have a great responsibility for this pathological performance." Because it is not only the fashion industry that has been affected, but now the demand for body shape can be seen everywhere. ”
The world is becoming more and more connected. For a long time, retailers and clothing manufacturers have completed the procurement of raw materials and the processing of finished clothing in developing countries. Since the entry into force of the North American Free Trade Agreement in the 1990s, the pace of economic globalization has begun to accelerate, and many European fashion companies have decided to enter the Asian market.
Fashion brands are opening stores and expanding their businesses in a number of fast-growing emerging markets far from their headquarters, further generating more revenue. In 2007, Karl Lagerfeld hosted the Fendi Sunset Show on the Great Wall. Bernard Arnault, chairman of LVMH, told WWD: "I think this is the first fashion show to be seen on the moon, and it proves that China is a place where miracles are happening. ”
Fendi Great Wall Show, 2007
The strength of the Chinese market is beyond doubt, but the Brazilian, Russian and Indian markets also have strong development potential. Jean-Paul Agon, then CEO of L'Oréal, once said: "The existing markets – the United States, Japan, Europe account for about 75% of global cosmetics consumption, but the total population accounts for less than 15%. Later, Tommy Hilfiger opened up the European market, Coach entered the Japanese market, Inditex and H&M entered emerging markets including Turkey, South Korea, and India, and fast retailing group became a global player. The rapid development of the Internet has enabled consumers around the world to learn about new products, new trends and new ideas at the same time, which has further promoted the development of globalization, as Jean-Paul Agon puts it, "consumers are even faster than we are".
From 2005 to 2006, designers began to work on shoes, creating a lot of hard-working high heels. Under the influence of such a fashion trend, suddenly those beautiful and delicate high heels are outdated, and high heels have lost the effect of elongating the legs. In the spring of 2007, Christian Lacroix paid homage to the Jenga game with tasseled wedges, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana designed studded shoes, Donna Karan designed plexiglass heels, and Nicolas Ghesquière designed sky-high, strappy high-heeled sandals for Balenciaga.
Alexander McQueen Armadillo Shoes, 2010
Model Irina Lazareanu told WWD: "Some shoes are really hard to wear. They are very tall, the runway is very slippery, and many models will fall and fall because of it. This trend didn't change until 2010, when Alexander McQueen introduced armadillo shoes.
Fashion shows without stars sound like urban legends. Although there has always been interaction between the fashion world and celebrities, this exchange can be seen as a special phenomenon in the early days.
Paris Hilton 与 Nicky Hilton，2009
On February 10, 2003, WWD reported: "People have reached a fever pitch for New York Fashion Week. The increasingly loose definition of celebrity coffee spots has fueled such fanaticism. This season, the enthusiasm of the people is a bit overdone. ”
In January 2009, Michelle Obama accompanied her husband to an inaugural ball in Jason Wu's white gown. Since then, she has been on her journey as a fashion icon.
Michelle Obama in Jason Wu white dress, 2009
Thakoon's suit, Tracy Feith's long skirt, Narciso Rodriguez and Maria Cornejo's funky coat... The fashion industry lamented her recognition of emerging designers. Michelle Obama received a special honorable mention at the 2009 CFDA Awards. At the same time, she also created a people-friendly image through clothing. She wore the costume of the National American brand J. Crew when she met the wife of then-British Prime Minister Gordon Brown in London; she wore clothing from Talbot and H&M at a social event at the White House.
If Diana Vreeland created the profession of fashion editor, anna Wintour created the star fashion editor. Since becoming Editor-in-Chief of Vogue USA in 1988, Anna Wintour has changed the standard for the fashion industry and magazine editors.
Anna Wintour
The fashion editors of Anna Wintour's version wielded the freedom to dominate fashion trends, far beyond the columns they were responsible for, to the social level (Met Gala), pop culture ("The Witch Who Wears Prada"), fashion design (to discover John Galliano) and so on. In November 1989, Anna Wintour explained her signature oversized sunglasses in an interview with WWD, saying, "My eyes are not good and I have a terrible headache. I put on my sunglasses just because I was too tired. ”
Truly passionate people will never be overwhelmed by a momentary dilemma. In the decade from 2001 to 2010, a large number of emerging designers emerged. For example, Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, co-founded Proenza Schouler, rodarte founder Kate Mulleavy with Laura Mulleavy, Giles Deacon, Tao Kurihara, Haider Ackermann and other impressive designers.
Top left: Rodarte, Proenza Schouler, Haider Ackermann
Bottom left: Jason Wu, Alexander Wang, Tao Comme des Garcons
Other designers and brands have also made a name for themselves, such as Thakoon Panichgul, Jason Wu, Gareth Pugh, Alexis Mabille, Phillip Lim, Christopher Kane, Joseph Altuzarra, Jonathan Saunders, Alexander Wang, Ohne Titel, Marchesa, The Row And so on, and so on. Their success not only symbolizes the rise of a new generation of designers, but also brings more support from the industry to the younger generation through their efforts.
As Michael Kors once said, "The fashion industry doesn't welcome the faint of heart." "Over the past 100 years, legendary designers have surprised and created countless achievements for the fashion industry. This leads us to believe that the fashion industry for the next 100 years is also worth looking forward to and promising. WWD
Planning the Huayi Tomorrow Fashion Content Center
Edit Usasa
Image source WWD 100th anniversary special issue, network