Speaking of fashion dramas, many people subconsciously think of either "The Female Devil Head Wearing Prada" or "Sex and the City".
Especially in the domestic TV drama list, it is even more difficult to screen out the dramas with the "fashion" label of the Eight Classics.
It seems that the "fashion drama" in the minds of many audiences must be a nonsensical tearing each other up, it must be a publicly funded love without warning, and it must be that the protagonists do not have to do anything all day as long as they dress luxuriously to drink afternoon tea.
However, a Chinese drama "Dressage", which Is recently chased by The Magnificent, tells us a different look of the fashion circle from a new perspective.
It focuses on the fashion magazine Dressage, and the story revolves around two main lines.
One line begins with Chen Kaiyi, the deputy editor-in-chief of the magazine played by Song Jia, who plays a game with Xiao Hongxue, played by Yuan Yongyi, the editor-in-chief from Hong Kong, China, and the two redivide the sphere of influence.
The other line is based on Li Na, a "fashion rookie" played by Song Zu'er, presenting her journey of upgrading and fighting monsters in the magazine.
In fact, when it comes to domestic fashion dramas, there are very few people who can remember the name, either the plot is exaggerated, and the tearing war is staged every day, or it has nothing to do with "fashion".
The point that "Dress" is relatively willing to be recognized by the industry is that it restores some real things that are really happening in the fashion industry as much as possible.
For example, Li Na went to the magazine interview, white shirt + black pencil pants, and then a pair of red high heels, plus the embellishment of the black backpack, naturally it was against the law.
What's even more wonderful is that she didn't even keep the tag in her white shirt uncut, thinking that she could return again.
Although it is the "little cleverness" of newcomers, in fact, this is not surprising in the fashion circle, sometimes bloggers or stylists want to borrow clothes and brand stalls, they will buy themselves, shoot and then return.
Even when a luxury brand is revealed in a fashion magazine, the star or model may wear the same piece, unless there is a brand title or a large coffee seat, there will be delivery services or even brand customization.
Weekend Pictorial, No. 1206/1207
There is such a scene in the play, before the "Dress" magazine is about to be released, Chen Kaiyi is still shooting blockbusters.
It may seem like a drama, but such examples are also common in the industry, and the famous photographer Juergen Teller first became famous for the Romanian special of "i-D", but this group of films is actually the finished product that was killed by "The Face".
There is also the cover of the January 2017 issue of GQ, which originally set a photo of Ang Lee's father and son, but finally temporarily replaced it with a photo of Ang Lee.
For various reasons (such as the temporary adjustment of the artist's schedule, the magazine's need to catch up with the sudden hot spots, such and such subjective and objective reasons, etc.), the magazine has the possibility of temporarily replacing the content one second before the official printing.
Including the drama Li Na accidentally destroyed an expensive coat, was reprimanded by the person in charge of "selling you can not buy back", I believe that many people in the industry feel real.
This is not the script in order to sprinkle dog blood and deliberately arranged so, in reality, the editors shoot blockbusters to use the clothing is often asked the brand to borrow samples, many clothes may be the season's hot new products or even the official model has not yet been listed on the runway sample, the price is indeed not cheap - if the shooting is high-end, then the price is even more boundless! Therefore, even senior editors will be quite careful about the sample clothes borrowed.
Compared to the high prices of magazine shots and recommended fashion items, usually the salary of fashion editors is not particularly high - otherwise how can anyone describe it: fashion editors recommend fifty thousand bags with a salary of five thousand.
Therefore, although "Dress" is still using the fashion trend of 2016 because of the early shooting time, it has been complained by some netizens that it is not "fashionable" enough, but in the view of the majestic, it has hidden a lot of real situations in the fashion circle.
The drama party also spent a lot of thought on many details, such as the "leftover Martin" in the corner of the corridor that fashion workers talk about on weekdays, which naturally refers to the holy land of fashion designers - Central St Martins Art Institute in London.
Qin Min and Mary, the two middle-level leaders of the company, both have such capable short hair as Xiaoxue (former editor-in-chief of the Chinese edition of ELLE) and Zhang Yu (former editor-in-chief of the Chinese edition of VOGUE).
Bottom left: Xiao Xue Bottom right: Zhang Yu
The mixed expression of the brand docking person in Chinese and English makes people smile even more. (That's right, there's a really part of the fashion industry that likes to talk like that...) ）
Don't think of "Dress" as a domestic "Female Devil Head Wearing Prada", it wants to tell a story far more than that.
First of all, Li Na, a fashionable marginal person who stumbled into the fashion circle, just graduated from sports university and did not have any fashion experience, but was recommended by the editor-in-chief George.
As a result, on the day of the interview, George jumped off the building and died, and she was argued by Yan Kai, the director of the special topic department, on the grounds of "lack of personnel in the editorial department" and "strength students do not occupy the establishment".
To tell the truth, this is actually not the heroine's aura shining, the daily work volume of fashion magazines is huge, and there is often a shortage of manpower when it comes to the publication period, but often the number of staff in the magazine to edit this department is very limited, and it cannot meet the needs of daily employment, so "interns" have become the most popular type of work in fashion magazines - can work, and do not account for the staff, plus a large number of college students graduate every year, "interns" students are not worried.
But even so, Li Na is still considered to be the title of going through the back door, coupled with being a fashion rookie, Li Na's life in the company is naturally not good.
I don't know that the English name of the brand will be ridiculed as "not qualified to enter the company" (knocking on the blackboard, the English name of the fashion brand and even the French pronunciation must be read, which is the basic skill of entering the fashion magazine), and then there was a case of being framed and causing the loss of the sample clothes.
It is easy to substitute the perspective of non-fashion practitioners in her, and every time a new scene is unlocked, it is promoting the public's understanding of the fashion industry.
Except for one point: Yan Kai's maintenance of her is a little too "Mary Sue", although there is a big premise entrusted by George, but spending 100,000 US dollars to compensate the other party for the damaged sample is still full of question marks.
This operation was naturally rumored by colleagues in the company, and it also directly led to the later "scandalous incidents" and "forced resignation incidents".
The other line is naturally the battle between Chen Kaiyi and Xiao Hongxue.
Rubbing your hands, this is also the plot line that the majority of audiences who love to watch lively are the most favorite to watch.
Originally, everyone tacitly agreed that Chen Kaiyi was the next editor-in-chief, but I did not expect to kill a cheng to bite gold halfway, or a Hong Kong team directly appointed by the headquarters.
This kind of fashion magazine game is particularly common:
Carine Roitfeld, former editor-in-chief of the French version of Vogue, founder of cr Fashion Book, and well-known stylist, is at odds with Anna Wintour, editor-in-chief of the American version of Vogue. The two had a fight at the headquarters of Condé Nast, the parent company of vogue, GQ and other magazines.
Carine is rumored to be leaving Vogue because Anna feels she threatens her position, and Carine has said in public: "She's a politician, I'm a stylist." ”
The story of these two people was also "inherited" by "The Witch Who Wears Prada", which was changed to Miranda (inspired by Anna Wintour) in both the book and the film, and assigned a fashion brand suitable position for the Editor-in-Chief of the French edition, thus driving the opponent out of the parent company system of the magazine.
After Zhang Yu's departure, the new editor-in-chief of the domestic Vogue, Zhang Ning, is a post-90s girl directly appointed by the "winner" Anna of the year, and for the existing editorial team of the Chinese version of Vogue, it is a thorough "airborne" editor-in-chief.
In short, as soon as Xiao Hongxue came, the excitement of "Dress" can be said to be straight-line full, and the opening small cake hid a needle in the cotton, "killing" bloody storm.
The front foot also praised each other's good skin and good temperament, and the back foot kicked the ball in the conference room.
More importantly, the two big men have great differences in the concept of making a magazine:
Chen Kaiyi is an old-school journalist who emphasizes that content is king, and the so-called traffic and gold lords have to lose in the face of her "persistence".
Xiao Hongxue is more commercial thinking, feels that content can be sacrificed, and checks the accounts and layoffs as soon as he comes, indicating to everyone the goal of improving performance.
Different concepts, there will naturally be collisions, each other's open and secret struggle makes "Dress" full of smoke, and the employees under them will also have new contradictions due to whether they stand in line or not.
Advertising director Lu Binbin, who thought that Chen Kaiyi's position as editor-in-chief was nailed down, repeatedly attacked Yan Kai, who was under former editor-in-chief George.
When Xiao Hongxue came down, he ran non-stop to offer his hospitality.
There are walls and grasses naturally have rocks, and Qin Min, as the director of human resources, has been co-opted by Xiao Hongxue several times, but he is still loyal to Chen Kaiyi.
Later, she pretended to surrender to Xiao at the behest of Chen, thinking that there would be a more exciting story.
Rather than being a small white flower upgrading and fighting monsters, "Dress" is more like focusing its attention on the magazine, telling the story of the workplace under the crisis of the rise of the new media in the paper media.
As a fashion drama, fashionable dress is naturally something that must be mentioned in the play.
"Dressage" invited Deng Li, the former editor-in-chief of "Jia Ren", as the fashion chief planner, and it can be seen from the special edition that she has prepared nearly a hundred sets of looks for each role.
The two fashion mogules are shaped by Cui Dan, a former fashion director of "GQ", focusing on highlighting their different personalities.
The above GIF is very illustrative of the two styles, Chen Kaiyi is strong and capable, most people choose coats or suits with crisp and clean lines, strong sense of contour, and the law of stacking is played vividly.
Xiao Hongxue is an eight-sided exquisite, making people look for it like a spring breeze.
When she first appeared on the scene, she smiled and remembered the names and masterpieces of each editor, a set of offensive tactics, and even the staunch "Chen Dang" Mary could not resist.
Therefore, her style is more feminine, the color is beautiful, and there are material embellishments such as chiffon and sequins.
As for Li Na, who graduated from the Sports University, it is obvious that she will usher in her own fashionable transformation in the later stage.
In fact, compared to wearing, "Dress" is more noteworthy and non-vain feminism.
This may also be the point where the fashion industry is particularly different from other industries, with more women, less male gaze, and a greater say in discussing feminism.
The first time the special group met in the play, it was discussing the "celebrity standard" and discussing when the definition of women by celebrity began.
After Chen Kaiyi held the handle of Xiao Hongxue and the company's senior management hidden marriage, she bluntly said that "we are all women", and she could not do the next three indiscriminate means.
Even Li Na confided that the reason why she studied sports was because her father preferred boys, and her long-term contempt made her feel that long hair and wearing skirts were wrong, and only like boys could they be respected.
"We live not to please men", Chen Kaiyi's loud line wanted to impress many people in front of the screen.
Speaking of this, I have to sigh that "Dressage" really dares to shoot, and there will be a plot of female employees encountering workplace bullying in the commercial liquor bureau in the follow-up plot.
Xiao Hongxue, who stepped forward on the spot, and Chen Kaiyi, who had a firm attitude when the magazine was bitten by a negative public opinion, did not hesitate too much to stand in front of the female employees.
At this moment, the "Dress" magazine has no intrigue, no high and low, and everyone is one.
The smooth version of the video is put here for everyone, you can click to feel the charm of the two big guys~
It's also interesting that "Dress up" chose the time node in 2016, which was the era of new media explosions.
The rise of WeChat public accounts overnight, with fast and convenient content impact on the traditional media industry, Kuaishou Meipai and other short video platforms have been launched, just this year, Douyin also announced the launch.
As Chen Kaiyi said, traditional media such as magazines were naturally suppressed at that time.
For example, when an editorial staff passes by a newsstand and wants to buy a magazine, they will hear the sentence "Who still reads the magazine"?
Coupled with the high threshold of traditional media, many enthusiasts who want to engage in the fashion industry but are not allowed to enter the door will choose to open and operate their own social platforms, which in turn will prompt a wave of KOL.
For people in magazines, it's probably people outside the besieged city who want to come in, people outside the besieged city who want to go out.
After all, in real life, even Tang Shuang, former editor-in-chief of Youjia Pictorial and former deputy publisher of Vogue, and Hong Huang, editor-in-chief and publisher of iLOOK, also opened personal WeChat public accounts and social platforms early.
Majestic is also a witness and participant in this change, having worked in traditional media and later exploring more possibilities on new media platforms.
In my opinion, although the carrier has changed, the original intention of fashion practitioners has not changed, that is, to consistently convey a clear fashion point of view and fashion attitude. No matter how the times change, the function and responsibility of being a media person should be to output high-quality content, not to change for the sake of change and attract attention for the sake of traffic.
This is also the meaning of the name "Dressage".
The so-called "dress to attend" does not have to be dressed, "dress" is an attitude, a breath, is a strict line of life to wait for all kinds of persistence.