Paris cafes are decreasing year by year The industry hopes to be included in the intangible cultural heritage

According to a study conducted by the French Chamber of Commerce and Industry, the number of cafes in Paris and the suburban provinces has dropped from 1907 in 2002 to 1410 now, and cafes are a symbol of the French art de vivre.

According to Le Parisien, from a cup of espresso in the morning, to a plate of butter ham at noon, to an aperitif in the evening, and a conversation at the coffee table, is this French life dying? In any case, in Paris, the capital of the world's cafés, the number of cafes is getting smaller and smaller. According to a study by the Regional Observation Centre for Trade, Industry and Services (Crocis) of the French Chamber of Commerce and Industry, the number of cafes in Paris and the three suburban provinces has decreased by 40 per cent in the past 20 years, with 1,907 in 2002 and only 1,410 remaining.

While the number of cafés is on the decline almost everywhere in the Paris region, some areas are more severely affected. The biggest drop was in Paris's 16th arrondissement, which currently has only 13 cafes left, a 68 percent drop in 20 years, and Mayor Rudolf Bognett said there was no rational explanation for the decline. It was followed by the 19th and 8th arrondissements of Paris, where cafes decreased by 60% and 58% respectively in 20 years.

In contrast, central Paris is less affected. In Districts 2 and 3, the number of cafes has increased by 17% and 15% respectively in 20 years. Marcel Benezer, a member of the Paris Chamber of Commerce and Industry and chairman of the Café, Bar and Pub division of the National Group of IndependentLy Run Employers for the Hotel-Restaurant Industry (GNI), said the increase in cafés in the center of Paris could be explained by the number of tourists, with the only exception being the Paris I sector, which saw a 46% reduction in cafés due to the fact that there were many construction sites in the first arrondissement, such as the renovation works carried out in recent years such as the Salsmaritan department store and the Louvre Post Office, as well as the congestion of the Seine quay, which reduced the local appeal.

Benedict Gualbert, author of the study, argues that there are many reasons for the decline in cafes, "Over the past 20 years, this industry has been very competitive with the fast food industry. Fast food chains, supermarkets, kebabs, etc., have many options for lunch in the city, especially in Paris. As a result, while the number of cafes is decreasing, the number of fast food restaurants is increasing. "For example, in the eighth and nineteenth arrondissements of Paris, fast food restaurants have increased by 40% and 90% respectively in 20 years, and some of these fast food chains are behind large groups with strong financial strength.

In addition, this is also related to the change in the consumption habits of Parisians. Since the introduction of the 35-hour workweek system in 2000, people have shortened their lunch breaks, while cafes have failed to adapt to new consumer demand for takeaway or healthy dishes, and the COVID-19 crisis has further changed people's consumption habits. Maxim, an employee of the Paris information technology company, said in an interview at a café in the seventeenth arrondissement that he did not have time to spend an hour and a half eating during the lunch break, only one day a week to go out for lunch, and the rest of the time to go to the bakery to buy light meals.

Benedict Gualbert also said that now there are coffee machines in the office and in the home, and you can drink coffee anywhere, and people don't have to go to cafes. Alcohol consumption in cafes has also declined, with people increasingly drinking at home, especially to avoid drunk driving when they get home.

During the COVID-19 pandemic, the Paris municipal government introduced measures to expand the open-air platform of the catering industry, but the situation in the catering industry has not improved, and the "health pass" system has also hindered the operation of catering institutions, and many restaurants and cafes are facing cash flow problems and recruitment difficulties. Marcel Benezer noted that "since the mandatory telecommuting and the ban on standing consumption in catering establishments, the turnover of paris restaurants and cafes has shrunk by almost 50 percent." ”

The Café "Double Mill" in the 18th arrondissement of Paris is the filming location for Angel Amelie, with photos of the lead actor Audrey Tato posted behind the counter, but the café is losing its former aura, the atmosphere is far from the movie, the menu recommends not red wine, but cocktails and some snacks, and the guests are mainly young people and tourists. Lisa and Tom from Seattle, USA, said that the café was a must-see stop on their trip, and the café with the deck was a "Parisian impression" and "in Seattle, we only have Starbucks or fast food restaurants". Lisa believes that "the French are lucky to have cafes, which is the real French way of life." ”

Cafes, as a French art de vivre, may one day gain UNESCO recognition. The French industry has set up a special association to submit two applications to the Ministry of Culture in 2019 and 2021, hoping to include French open-air cafes and taverns in UNESCO's Intangible Cultural Heritage, which will be responsible for reviewing and submitting the list of applications to UNESCO. The association, chaired by Alain Fontaine, plans to resubmit its application in 2022, and French President Emmanuel Macron has also expressed support for it. According to Alain Fontaine, "Cafes were the first social network in France, much earlier than Facebook. (Overseas Network - Paris - Lujia)