1，
Gritting my teeth, I made a mandatory psychological construction for myself before I finally hiked to the Domara Pass at an altitude of 5630 meters.
This is the no-man's land of Ali in Tibet, and it is the commanding height of the sacred mountain Kailash on the hiking route to the mountain.
At the highest altitude and the most difficult part of the hike, I actually caught up with the heavy snowfall!
The Dormala Pass, also known as the Dormala Pass, is just as far as I can look up. But the road near the mountain pass is relatively steep, so high altitude, and catching up with extreme weather, so every time I climb a few steps up, I need to stop and rest, open my mouth and breathe heavily.
I set myself a mandatory mental construct of having to go up 5 steps to rest, and counting to 20 and having to walk.
After that, I had to change it to: I had to take 3 full steps to rest.
The only timeout during this period was when I looked back once and pulled out my camera to take the picture below.
This photo is a bit blurry, partly because it's snowing heavily, and on the other hand, I'm not only gasping for breath, but I'm shivering with cold!
Original photo: Taken on Kailash Turn mountain road
Kailash is a sacred mountain recognized by the world and is known as the "King of sacred mountains". It is also recognized as the center of the world by Hinduism, Tibetan Buddhism, The original Tibetan Yongzhong Bon religion, and ancient Jainism.
Therefore, on Kailash's mountain turning road, there has never been a shortage of devout pilgrims and tourists who come to visit.
There were also many foreign tourists who traveled to Tibet in those years, and on this hiking trip, I met a couple from Japan, who were in a much worse state than me.
The Japanese girl, who had long since been incapacitated, was lying on the back of the Tibetan, looking essentially in a semi-comatose state.
The Japanese boy was also able to climb the mountain on his own— not on his own, and a Tibetan helped them carry two backpacks, freeing up one hand to support him.
The Japanese boy gasped, his face a mixture of bitterness and anguish; occasionally he would look at the girl with a worried look on his face, pull the girl's hand, hoping to get a little response—you know, at such a high altitude, encountering a life hazard is not a low probability event.
When I passed by the Japanese boy, I could only pat him on the shoulder to give comfort and encouragement.
At that altitude and in that state, even if you have the heart to help others, nine times out of ten you have no power to help others.
After climbing the mountain pass, I found a leeward place to rest for a long time, but I was fine.
If you climb up hard, you are not in a hurry to go, nor are you in a hurry to descend to altitude.
After taking a circle of photos, I returned to the leeward place and saw the Japanese girl leaning on the Tibetan's body and taking a big breath of oxygen; it seems that the problem is not too big, and it will be fine when the altitude will be lowered.
The Japanese boy was also taking oxygen, and when he saw me sitting with the camera, he nodded at me and gave me a thumbs up, which meant thanking me for the encouragement I had just given and admiring me for not doing anything.
I asked: It's so difficult, why do you want to turn the mountain?
The Japanese boy pointed to the bag on the outside of the backpack, and did not dare to stop inhaling oxygen.
The Tibetans they hired smiled and pulled me out an English version of the book from the bag on the outside —I knew it was the Book of Tibetan Life and Death, which I had read.
I smiled and thought to myself: Good fellow, if you read this book, you can read this book, and you can't really come to Tibet to experience life and death.
I put away my camera—there was so much snow in front of me that I couldn't take any good pictures; but I was secretly glad that yesterday at the foot of the mountain, I actually captured Kailash's incomparably beautiful dusk.
Original photo: Twilight in Kailash
2，
This is not the only possible edge of life and death that I have watched while I traveled in Tibet.
Once I was parked in Shigatse and wanted to find a cheap car to enter no man's land.
At the bus station I found a car with a very low asking price, but found that no tourist seemed willing to take it.
The reason no one wants to sit is that the other Tibetan masters next to me remind me: Don't take this car, this car has just pulled a dead man to Camphor Wood!
The Tibetan master of this car was neither angry nor hidden, and took over the conversation indifferently: Yes! Do you care, or can you not take my car!
The Next Words of the Tibetan Master smoothed out my question mark face: I sent a dead tourist to the Zhangmu Port, and I just turned back to Shigatse! It was an Indian, when he went to Kailash to turn the mountain, he was very fat, and he had a high reaction on the road, and he died in the mountain pass! The leader said that the good guys were going to send people from camphor wood to Nepal and then to India. No one takes this job, I will take it!
The Tibetan master also added a sentence in a particularly realistic way: This is also a meritorious person, and people give a lot of money...
I laughed: You're right! When are we going to go?
The Tibetan master also laughed: Can you leave now! Anyway, no one but you would like to take my car.
The Tibetan masters who were watching also laughed -- people just reminded you that you really are not trying to grab jobs, just to remind you.
Original photo: Taken in no man's land in Tibet
After the road, the Tibetan master also said to me: Is Kailash also a sacred mountain of Hinduism? That Indian tourist is too fat! So fat to turn the mountain, easy to get into trouble!
The Tibetan master glanced at me: You are not fat, no problem!
Although he made me sound a little awkward when he put me together with indians, I knew it was just a kind encouragement, except that he didn't speak in a roundabout way.
Of course, Tibetan masters also have their own beliefs, so he also gave his own analysis: Do you see that before we Tibetans turn to the sacred mountain, we will also go to Mapan Yongcuo to take a bath; we Tibetans bathe in the holy lake, all of us hit the shore to wash, will not be lazy to stand in the lake to wash! But the Indians are not like this, they are lazy, just stand in the lake and wash. You left the filth on your body directly in the holy lake, and the holy lake is not happy!
This explanation left an impression on me.
The Tibetan master also said that when he delivered the body, he needed to drive from Tachin to Zhangmu in one breath; he was so sleepy on the road that he slept in the car.
Before going to bed, he glanced at the trunk, and the Indian's eyes seemed to be half open, and he couldn't sleep well! He covered his head with a rag, covered his head with his clothes, and slept like this...
Hearing this, I think that the Tibetan people's view of life and death is really not very different from ours.
Original photo: Tibetans preparing to go to the mountain next to Ma Pan Yongcuo
3，
The friends around me who have been to Tibet will basically be divided into two categories: one is to fight to the death and will not go again; the other is to want to go again as long as they can't die.
I covet the natural and cultural landscapes of Tibet, and I also covet its charm – it always gives me some fresh travel experiences and gives me a fresh view of many things that are different from the past.
This is probably the reason why I have been to Tibet nine times and still feel that I am not enough today.
However, I do not agree with the saying that "Tibet can purify your soul".
In my opinion, Tibet can't do your detergent – if you are a clean and good person, if you go to Tibet you will be a clean and good person; on the contrary, if a person is mentally dirty, can a trip to Tibet realize enlightenment?
That's just a thoughtless flicker of some internet editors, which belongs to the same routine as "how many places must be visited in a lifetime" - there are not many places in this world that must be visited in a lifetime, including Tibet.
The reason is very simple: so many people who have never been to Tibet, is it difficult for them to live in vain in this life?
Original photo: Meili Snow Mountain on the Yunnan-Tibet Line
It is said that we backpackers who love to go to Tibet are easy to get entangled in traveling to Tibet together.
This time, after I and a few backpacker friends had turned the mountain, we went to Ma Pan Yong Tso to rest our feet, ready to stay by the lake for one night, and then go to the next stop, Pa Yang , which is a photographer's paradise.
When I saw that some of my companions also wanted to take a bath in the lake, I told my companions about my ride-hailing experience and the words that impressed me with the Tibetan master.
Whether they believed in Buddhism or not, their companions all brought water to the shore and went to take a bath.
As a result, at night, Ah Mo from Shenzhen covered her lower abdomen and cried in pain, and the pain was so painful that she was shivering!
Her face was pale: it could be that the appendix was inflamed again!
Gritting my teeth again, I was remorseful: the doctor advised me to cut it off, so why didn't I agree at the time!
What can be done about this! Gave Amo the anti-inflammatory medicine we brought, which was insufficient and did not work.
Obviously, this needs to be hung up quickly to drip, otherwise such a high altitude, it will be fatal!
When I asked the Tibetan waiter at the hotel, they said that only a member of Pulan County could hang the bottle.
Original photo: Sunset of Pa Sheep, Photographer's Paradise
Everyone quickly packed their bags and set off.
By the time she arrived in Puran County, Amo was already in a semi-coma! We were all nervous, but thankfully Amo woke up after a half-hit; slowly it didn't hurt anymore.
Everyone breathed a sigh of relief!
Ah Mo was very calm: Alas, if you really hang it, hang it; according to the Tibetan compatriots, isn't it good to hang near the sacred mountain!
After the nervousness, the big guys have resumed the usual activity and impropriety of backpackers: Amo, you said it earlier! I said earlier that we would not come to Puran, and directly look for vultures and eagles for you!
After some giggles, Amo said: Have you read the Book of Life and Death in Tibet? If you have seen it, you may not care.
This is a trip to Tibet, and the second time I've heard someone mention this book.
Original photo: Ma Pang Yong Tso
4，
The above three times can be regarded as when I traveled in Tibet and watched the edge of life and death of others.
As for my own personal experience, it has nothing to do with altitude sickness — that is when I walked the northern sichuan-Tibet line and passed through QueerShan.
Queer Mountain is the commanding height of the entire Sichuan-Tibet Northern Line, and this time, I caught up with heavy snow again.
The high-altitude overhill road of Queer Mountain has frozen, and our car can only go at turtle speed.
Even so, at a bend, our car slipped! Damn, it slides to the right side of the road and the cliffs on the right!
Fortunately, our car was still braking, and the front wheel on the right side was already flush with the edge of the cliff.
Original photo: Our car is driving on the Sichuan-Tibet North Line
Without a word, everyone slowly got out of the car and slowed down for a long time before they thought about moving the car to safety.
So the bull went up to the cab and opened the door to prevent an unexpected jump; the others all pushed the car to the rear of the side to prevent slippage, which moved the car to the side near the mountain.
Then he took out the jack and sturdily attached the snow chain to the off-road vehicle.
After nightfall, there is an amazing scene on the snow road of Queer Mountain - in front of the headlights is a heavy snow of ten thousand arrows, and on the right side of the window is a full moon! The snow-capped mountains illuminated by the moonlight are bright, and the mountains that cannot be illuminated by the moonlight are hidden in the night, and as a result, the surrounding snow-capped mountains seem to be suspended in front of our eyes!
This moon snow is so beautiful!
Its beauty reminds us of the moment of life and death just now, and makes us sigh: It is really good to have life!
Original photo: After putting on the snow chains, a photo was taken at that time
5，
After the travel story is finished, let's talk about the "Tibetan Book of Life and Death" that appeared several times.
People who care about other people's advertisements, please don't draw down here; after all, there are many smart people who especially like to throw a sentence in the comment area: it turned out to be a book seller.
It seems that as long as you see the advertisement, then the things in front of you are all "fooled and read in vain".
I want to say, don't take your own path narrowly – advertising is not for everyone; besides, no one can force you to sell a book, and whether you buy it or not does not affect your previous reading feelings and gains.
In fact, I have been hesitant to recommend the Book of Tibetan Life and Death, not only because the book is very controversial, but also because some of the author's practices have been criticized by many parties.
It wasn't until later that I understood one thing— for example, the same "Golden Plum Bottle"— that some people saw the world's coldness and the taste of life; and some people just took it as a yellow book.
But it's the same book!
Original photo: Tibetan prayer flag
How to evaluate this "Tibetan Book of Life and Death"?
Some say it's chicken soup for the soul from Tibet; others say it takes fate to read it.
Some people say that the Tibetan Book of Life and Death is a good book for living beings who are facing death, or who are going through the process of dying.
Some people say that the Tibetan Book of Life and Death is a liberating guide to soothe the soul, it gives you a good look at "life and death", it will teach you to let go, to realize, to understand what is "life is also happy, death is also bitter" is.
Some people also say that this book saved their marriage, family, career, and life, and sublimated the value of their lives.
Of course, there are also people who say: I think anyone who believes in science does not have to read this book.
Others say that this book is an insult to human intelligence—it's not teaching you to face death, it's just going to make you escape death in another way.
Web pictures
In my opinion, in a sense, the above points are all correct.
After all, different people reading the same book will have very different reactions and harvests. This is very normal, there is no need to take your own feeling after reading, you have to put on the door of other people's brains.
In addition, one more important point is that reading is not only reading, but also needing to be thought.
It is better to believe in books than to have no books.
epilogue:
This is the edge of life and death that I have experienced on my nine trips to Tibet, or bystanders or personal experiences.
But you don't have to go to Tibet to experience this, to think about this eternal topic of mankind.
After all, there are delivery rooms, ICU wards, nursing homes, and crematoriums in the city...
Those places can stimulate you to revise or improve your outlook on life.
Therefore, this "Book of Life and Death in Tibet" is not necessarily read by people who have been to Tibet.
In the face of death, many people will avoid talking about it; but to talk about it or not, in fact, it is very close to us.
Book of Tibetan Life and Death ¥48 purchase
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Original text; refuse any reprint without my permission!
All photos are original except for the book photos.